A Companion and Useful Guide to the Beauties of Scotland/A Guide to the Beauties of Scotland
A GUIDE
TO THE
BEAUTIES OF SCOTLAND.
A
GUIDE, &c.
Provide yourself with a strong roomy carriage, and have the springs well corded; have also a stop-pole and strong chain to the chaise. Take with you linch-pins, and four shackles, which hold up the braces of the body of the carriage; a turn-screw, fit for fastening the nuts belonging to the shackles; a hammer, and some straps.
For the inside of the carriage, get a light flat box, the corners must be taken off, next the doors, for the more conveniently getting in and out. This box should hang on the front of the chaise, instead of the pocket, and be as large as the whole front, and as deep as the size of the carriage will admit: the side next the travellers should fall down by hinges, at the height of their knees, to form a table on their laps; the part of the box below the hinges should be divided into holes for wine bottles, to stand upright in. The part above the bottles, to hold tea, sugar, bread, and meat; a tumbler glass, knife and fork, and salt-cellar, with two or three napkins: the box to have a very good lock. I would also advise to betaken, bed-linen, and half a dozen towels at least, a blanket; thin quilt, and two pillows; these articles will set a traveller quite at ease, with respect to accommodation; the blanket and quilt will be very seldom wanted; however, when they are, it is very pleasant to have such conveniences in one's power.
If a traveller would like to save a great deal of money, and render a servant more useful than on horseback, put a seat for him behind the carriage.
Let two strong hooks be screwed on the body of the chaise, and a standing piece of iron from each hind spring, and a bar of iron across, to support the perpendicular pieces. The canvas or leather seat may, with straps, be so fastened to the hooks in the body of the carriage, and the upright irons, as to make it a very comfortable easy seat; and the servant being thus a part of the equipage, is always at hand for use, either in opening gates, or in case of accidents; besides, he never can be left behind at the inns where you stop, or elsewhere, which is for ever the case when a servant is on horseback: he is hardly ever with you, when you most want him; and often comes galloping after you, at the risk of his own neck, and to the great detriment of the poor post-horse. You will say, perhaps,—if the servant be stuck to our backs, how inconvenient! not to be able to send on for horses. If you travel for pleasure, you need not be in such haste; and besides, how few men are able to ride a hundred or more miles a day, for two or three days together? also, when you get into countries where you are obliged to take your horses wherever you go, there can be no sending on for fresh horses. But the most solid reason with many for adopting this mode of conveyance for a man-servant is, the very considerable sum of money it saves. To me, the convenience is not to be described, as by my man's being at all times at hand, he was ready to discover if any thing was amiss, and to assist in setting it to rights.
In a journey of near two thousand miles, my carriage was only once near being down, and would certainly have been so, had the servant been any where but on the seat behind. He felt and saw the shackle belonging to one of the hind springs break, and instantly called to the postillion. Had the carriage not stopped immediately, I do not know what might have happened; but as it was, a new shackle was taken out of the pocket of the chaise, and it was set upright again in a very short time: which, in my mind, afforded a strong proof of the utility of carrying a set of shackles, and having the servant on the chaise. This accident happened on the road near Loch Awe, far from assistance of any kind, and in torrents of rain.
Thus much for the first set off. I will now run over the ground I travelled in 1796, and I will begin my Guideship, equipped as above, from my own house; and you will soon reach the first post in the great North road.
With my maid by my side, and my man on the seat behind the carriage, I set off, May the 28th, 1796. Mr. Edes, of Stratton-street, Piccadilly, provided me with a good pair of horses; and a very civil man he is: those who have occasion for post-horses will do well for themselves if they employ him.
I mean in this Guide to convey you a long journey; give you the distances; and tell you what I think of the inns; where you may, and where you cannot, have a chance of sleeping.
Before I proceed, I will however inform you, that I think I have seen Scotland, and its natural beauties, more completely than any other individual. I was alone, nor did I limit myself as to time. I took great pains to see every thing worth seeing; and perhaps had better opportunities, than most other travellers, of exploring almost every famous glen, mountain pass, and cataract, by having a great many good and kind friends and relations by marriage, in Perthshire, and other parts of the Highlands; whose hospitality and kindness are stampt upon my heart, and will not be forgotten by my pen, when I describe the country. At present I will keep to my Guideship only.
Until I get out of England, I shall only mention the distances; unless I should have occasion to name an inn not fit to sleep at. In all probability you have travelled much of the road in England before, therefore you may wish to get on, as I did, as fast as you can. But in Scotland it may be new to you; I will therefore notice what you may see in your way, or at least mention what I saw with pleasure; also the inns most convenient to sleep at, with their distances from each other; and I will endeavour to point out a route that will give you an opportunity of seeing most of the natural beauties of the Highlands, &c. It will be a zig-zag route, but it will be much to the purpose, if you really wish to see Scotland, and not merely to say you have made the tour of that country.
To Waltham Cross, 19 miles.
Ware, 9 miles.
Buntingford, 10 miles.
Arrington, 13 miles.
Huntingdon, 15 miles.
Stilton, 12 miles.
Stamford, 14 miles,
Coltsworth, 13 miles; where Sir Isaac Newton was born.
Grantham, 8 miles.
Newark, 14 miles.
Tuxford, 14 miles.
Bawtry, 15 miles.
Doncaster, 9 miles.
Ferrybridge, 15 miles.
Weatherby, 16 miles.
Boroughbridge, 12 miles.
Leeming, 12 miles; Oak-tree a very bad inn; there is another, a very good one.
Catterick-bridge, 11 miles; where there is a very good inn. Do not stop at Catterick town, it is only an alehouse.
To Greeta-bridge, 14 miles; the George inn very good.
To Brough, 18 miles; the inn very bad indeed.
To Crackenthorpe, 10 miles.
To Penrith, 12 miles; the Crown, an excellent inn.
To Carlisle, 18 miles; the Bush, a good inn.
Between Penrith and Carlisle, do not fail seeing the Nunnery, a beautiful romantic place. A mile before you enter Penrith, by the Brough road, observe as you cross the rivers there, King Arthur's famous Round Table. The views about that spot are all fine.
To Long-town, 10 miles; a very good inn.
To Langholm, 14 miles; the inn too bad to sleep at.
Admire the banks of the river Esk; and stay long enough to see the beauties of Langholm, and the Duke of Buccleugh's lodge, by which the Esk runs; and the Ewes river joins it near the bridge.
To Hawick, 22 miles; observe the road all the way, it is beautifully romantic. At Mosspole, the half-way house, no horses are kept, nor can you get any thing there, for those in your chaise, except a little meal and water. Close by Mosspole, you meet with the source of the river Ewes, which you were near all the way from Langholm, where, as I have before said, it unites with the Esk. Within a quarter of a mile from Mosspole, you join the Tiviot river near its source, and follow it to Hawick; where it is joined by the Slettrick water. You must contrive to be at Langholm early in the day, it being a long and tedious stage from thence to Hawick; I was eight hours in travelling it. At Hawick you must sleep, as there is no place between that and Edinburgh where you can possibly pass a night with any degree of comfort. I would advise you, even to get early to Hawick, lest other travellers should be there before you: there is but one sitting room at Hawick, and only one tolerable bed chamber, with two beds in it.
To Selkirk, 11 miles.
The inn is too bad, either to eat or sleep at; but horses good.
To Bankhouse, 15 miles. The inn very middling.
On leaving Selkirk, you cross the Ettrick water, running to the Tweed. Somewhat above the bridge by which you cross the Ettrick, the Yarrow water falls into it. The Yarrow has its source from Loch of the Lows, and St. Mary's lake, and runs by the town of Yarrow. When you come within sight of the Tweed, which you will do at the turn of the road from the Ettrick water, observe the extreme beauties of that part of Tweedale, which you then enter, particularly at Yair and Fairnalie, where you cross the Tweed. Before you reach Banknouse, you join the river Galla.
From Bankhouse to Middleton, 9 miles.
To Edinburgh, 12 miles.
Two miles from Middleton, you cross a branch of the South-Esk; and again you will cross the South-Esk near Dalhousie Castle; the situation of which is romantic. When you come to Leswade bridge, over the North-Esk river, look to the right at Melville Castle. From the Middleton road, you will get a very fine view of Edinburgh. If you have no friend's house to go to at Edinburgh, there are several fine hotels in the New Town; but to remain at them, is very expensive. You must at any rate stay some time at Edinburgh, because many charming things are to be visited in its neighbourhood: amongst the rest, by setting out early, you may in one day see Crag-Miller Castle, Dalkeith, and Roslin Castle.
From Edinburgh to Dalkeith, 6 miles.
From Dalkeith to Roslin, 6 miles.
From Roslin to Edinburgh, 6 miles.
When at Roslin, do not fail crossing the North-Esk river, which runs under the walls of Roslin Castle, to see Hawthorndean, and all the walks near, and belonging to Roslin. In the way from Dalkeith to Roslin, you will again see Melville Castle; and cross the North-Esk at Leswade bridge.
When at Edinburgh, walk round Salisbury Crags, and to the top of Arthur's Seat. See Dediston lake, and house. Inquire for the bit of rock, where the fine echo is heard; it is between Salisbury Crags, and the new walk towards Dediston lake. Walk over Calton Hill; but be sure to have a gentleman, or a man servant with you. See the Castle, the Abbey, and its ruined chapel. If you can get leave, see a fine picture of King Charles the First of England, and his Queen Henrietta; it is in Lady Elizabeth Murray's apartment, the property of the Earl of Dunmore.
See also St. Barnard's well; and St. Anthony's well, and ruined chapel; with many other things in, and near Edinburgh, well worth observation.
From Edinburgh to Queensferry, 9 miles.
The ferry, even with a carriage, may be crossed almost at any hour, it being but seldom that the tide will not serve.
The prices for crossing, are put up against the passage house, that there may be no imposition. A chaise without horses is half-a-crown; for each man or woman, one penny.
The breadth of the ferry, is 2 miles.
As you cross Queensferry, you may see Hopetoun House.
I would advise you to leave Edinburgh early in the morning, that you may reach Kinross in time to see, many beauties near that town; particularly Loch Leven.
If you mean to travel for pleasure, and are willing to be safe, make a resolution, (and keep to it strictly) never to be out after dark. If you will adhere to my plan, and be early in a morning in your chaise, you may see each day's portion of beauty, and have daylight to lodge you safe, in your intended quarters, unless some unforeseen delay should occur.
From Queensferry to Kinross, 15 miles. Donaldson's, at the north end of the town, is rather the best inn; neither of them extremely good. But at Kinross you must sleep; and early in the morning (I wish you a fair day) set out for Stirling, 18 or 20 miles.
Stop at the town of the Crook of Devon, (to it a very good road,) and there procure a guide to shew you the field you are to cross, to get to the Rumbling Brig, and Cauldron Lin. Should you, when at either, be so fortunate as to meet with Mr. Lowry Johnston, who holds a farm near the Lin, and may probably then be fishing; you will find him a very ready friendly guide; and if you can follow him, he will lead you to the bottom of the rocks, over which the Rumbling Brig is thrown, with great dexterity. The Rumbling Brig, is not more than a quarter of a mile out of the road, but you must walk to it, and the Lin, across a field. The Lin is about a mile below the Brig; and to see it in perfection, you must go to Mr. Charles Mercer's side of the river, and to his walk, which is on the south side of the Devon. You must first go to a point where is an ash tree hanging over the Cauldrons; then follow Mr. Mercer's walk to the foot of the fall, which is very fine.
Before you quit the Brig, go up the river on each side of it, and you will see much to admire. When you return to your carriage, you will have four miles to go to the small town of Dollar, of as bad road as ever carriage passed; but if in the day, it is safe enough. At Dollar, while your horses bait, look over the ruin of Castle Campbell, on the banks of the Burn of Care, flanked by the hill of Gloom.
From Dollar to Stirling, the road is tolerably good and pleasant, under the range of hills called Oichill Hills.
You must sleep at Stirling, and see every thing there; and hire horses to carry you until you reach Crieff. The New Inn, the one that is lowest in the town, is an excellent one.
From Stirling proceed to Callender, 16 miles. As you go towards Callender, you will pass by Doune, and its castle, in ruins; and before you, (at a very great distance) you will see Ben Lomond, and Ben Lidi, looking much like each other in shape; Ben Lomond on the left, Ben Lidi nearly in front of you, and Ben Chochan between them, not so high, but somewhat resembling them in form. The inn at Callender, Drummond, Perth's Arms, middlingly good, but you may sleep tolerably there for a few nights. From Callender you must go to Loch Catheine, 9 miles. The road to Loch Catheine is bad enough. Take food for your horses, self, and servants, for none can be gotten until you return to Callender. A whole day would be well spent in viewing the beauties of the Trosacks, that is, the wonders around Loch Catheine, and the two lakes before you get to Loch Catheine. The first lake you come to, from Callender, is Loch Vana-Choir, the Lake of the fair Valley: the next, Loch Achray, or Loch-a-chravy, the Lake of the Field of Devotion. Take care of the ford of the river that runs out of Glen Finglass. I advise you to walk over the foot-bridge, of wood and turf, and let the carriage go empty through the river. Near Loch Catheine, on the right, is the forest of Glen Finglass, once covered with the deer of the kings of Scotland. On the right, Ben Chochan, the small Mountain, because less than Ben Lomond, and Ben Lidi, its neighbours. When at Loch Catheine, at the foot of which you must quit the carriage, take care your horses do not get bogged, as mine did, whilst the driver was staring at the wonders of the Trosacks. Procure a boat, if any within reach, and go to the Den of the Ghost; to the rock which rises 200 feet perpendicular above the lake, and walk the road, that is cut and blown out of the rocks, to a high point before you.
To the north of Callender is Ben-le-Dia, the Hill of God, commonly called Ben Lidi.
Do not fail seeing Brackland Brig, over the water of Kelty (or violent).
Observe the peculiar stone with which the town of Callender is built; the crag above the town is of the same sort of stone, called the Plum-pudding stone. At Callender is a curious conical hill, where the old church stood, called Tom-ma-Chessaig, the Hill of St. Kessaig.
From Callender to Lochearn Head, 12 miles. You cannot well sleep at Lochearn Head; therefore set out very early from Callender, that you may get to Crieff before it be dark.
On quitting Callender, and the town that joins it, called Kilmahog, observe on the left, the river Teith; it is the most considerable branch of the Forth; one stream of it comes from Loch Van-a-Choir, the other from Loch Lubnaig, and join at Kilmahog. At the pass of Lennie, observe some beautiful cataracts of the water that comes from Loch Lubnaig, which you will soon join by one of the very romantic passes through the Grampian mountains; having Ben Lidi to your left. As you advance to Loch Lubnaig, you will see, on the right, Ben Vorlich raise its conical head; and on the other side of that Ben is Loch Earn. About the midway of Loch Lubnaig (that is, the Crooked Lake), on the opposite side from the road, is Craig-na-co-heilg, which signifies the rock of the joint hunting. When you come to Loch Earn Head, look into Glen Ogle, and Glen Ample; in which are fine waterfalls; and Eden Ample.
From Loch Earn Head to Crieff, 20 miles.
After you quit the lake a mile or two, inquire for Movey, or Deneira, Mr. Dundas's, a place that must not be passed by without being seen: but as the country there is very thinly inhabited, you may not find any one of whom to inquire; therefore look to the left for a white gate, amongst rocks covered with wood, and that will lead you to it. At Deneira, walk to the waterfall, and to the top of the hill above it, whence there is a fine view to the lake. Should you have time, and be a good walker, there are innumerable beauties to be seen at Deneira. After you leave Deneira, ford the river Earn, close above a foot-bridge in the Chinese style, and by a good road, you will soon pass by two charming places; on the left, Dalchonzie, pronounced Dalwhonie; and, on the right, is Aberuhill. The hills around you are the Grampians. Soon after Aberuhill you will cross the Earn by a stone bridge, at the town of Comrie; after which you will pass by Lawers House, and Ochtertyre.
At Crieff you may dismiss your Stirling horses, particularly as you must stay at Crieff a few days, as much is to be seen in its neighbourhood. The most beautiful places are Ochtertyre, and Drummond Castle, Monzie, pronounced Monie, and many others. You must take one long day, and go to Newton, in the Amulrie road, 8 miles; it lies in Glen Almond, one of the wildest glens in Scotland; and is another pass through the Grampian Hills. Take food for man and beast, for none will you find at Newton. While your horses are baiting, walk as far as you are able up the glen, following the river, and you will not lose your labour, if you love sweet Nature. When you leave Newton, on your return, as soon as you quit the glen, and get to the top of the very steep ascent out of it, leave the road by which you came into the glen, and follow the one you see, that directs to the course of the river Almond, and it will bring you to the Brig of Buchanty, a romantic spot; from thence you will return to Crieff, but not exactly by the same road you came; you will rejoin it about the five milestone from Crieff: observe, going down the hill, about four miles from Crieff, the view over Monzie, or Monie, to Ochtertyre, and the hills around Loch Earn.
From Crieff to Perth, 18 miles.
To the right you will see Abercairny and Balgowan; on the left, Methven and Huntingtower. At Balgowan, inquire for the carriage road to Leadnock, and do not miss it upon any account; for, of its size, it is unique in beauty; besides, Bessy Bell and Mary Gray, there,
"Bigg'd a bower on yon burn brae,
And theek'd it o'er with rashes."
The burn, on whose brae those twa bonny lasses bigg'd their bower, adorns the scenes of Leadnock, and falls into the river Almond hard by.
As far as Perth, should you go from England the direct road, you can get post-horses all the way; but when you arrive at that town, if you do not proceed on the coast road, which I did not, you must hire horses by the day, to go through the Highlands, or wherever you please to be carried. For example, if you hire them to go to Blair of Atholl, Taymouth, or any other part, where you propose paying a visit of days, or weeks, you must either retain the horses, and pay so much each day for them; or send them back to Perth, and order them to come again for you; paying for the time they take in getting from you to Perth, and from Perth to you again; as I was obliged to do from Blair, and from Rannoch, besides other shorter distances.
If you wish to travel through the Highlands in as perfect security as is possible, from good horses and careful driver, you must apply to Mr. Millar, at the Salutation inn, for horses, and James Allen, his driver, to take care of you; for I verily believe he will drive you (and with perfect safety too), through roads that no other man can drive, without accident, unless he be as careful, and as skilful, as James was when he drove me. I think there are very few such drivers as Allen; and because he was so sober and so careful, I gave him half-a-crown a-day for himself, which he well deserved; for whilst he drove me (and I am sure for many a mile where my carriage went under his conduct, never carriage had before gone), I felt perfectly easy; though sometimes, on the one hand, I beheld a deep lake below, and on the other, stupendous rocks, out of which the road, only the width of the carriage, is blown; yet still I was, and even thought myself safe, with James Allen, and his steady black horses.
Hay, in the summer of 1796, was very dear, consequently Mr. Millar was obliged to charge higher, than in former seasons, for the horses. I gave him twenty shillings a-day, and had nothing more to pay for them or the driver, except the daily present of half-a-crown to Allen.
If you have no friends at Perth, I recommend to you the Salutation inn for your head-quarters; for though it be not reckoned the first inn, yet you will find your account in the civility of Mr. Millar, and the superior cleanliness of his house.
From Perth you must go to the Bridge of Earn; to the old Pictish town Abernethy, and to Dupplin. In coming back from the Bridge of Earn to the Dupplin road, you will see, on the right, Moncrief Hill, and on the south side of Earn, when in the Dupplin road, you will have a view of Lord Ruthven's, Rosie, and Invermay. In returning from Dupplin, when you come within sight of the Tay, winding round Kinnoul Hill, and the town of Perth in front; stop, and admire; for one does not often gain such views.
You may go to the Carse of Gowrie from Perth; and to the top of Kinnoul hill. The view from Major Sharp's house, and many other spots, are very fine.
You must also go into Strathmore; for that purpose hire horses and go to Coupar in Angus, which is from Perth, the direct road, 13 miles: but I advise the new road to the new bridge over the river Ila; by which means you can in the way see Scone; the Lin of Campsie, which is a fine fall of the Tay; and Stub Hall, an ancient house of the Perth family. Cross the new bridge of Ila, and see Mieklour; whence you may take a view of Dunsinane Hill. Proceed to Coupar, where I was not, but probably you may there get tolerable accommodation. Take a day from Coupar to see Loch Clunie, where, on an island in the lake, the admirable Chrichton was born. Pass by Marlie, and go to Blair Gowrie, near which see the Keith of Blair Gowrie, a low, though curious fall of the water of Airoch. Look at the large stones in the bed of the river, at the Keith, they are extraordinary. From the bridge below the Keith, there is a safe, though a bad carriage road to Craig Hall, hanging over the same water, that falls at the Keith, and which above, bears the name of Black Water. Craig Hall is a very singular, and curiously romantic place.
Take another day to go farther into Strathmore, where you will see Glammis, Ayrly Castle, and other beautiful places, and castles: but do not fail seeing the great fall of the river Ila, called the Reeky Lin; which is a few miles from the small town of Ailyth; get a guide if you can, for the carriage road is very intricate, and bad; but the great beauty of the fall (particularly if full of water) will recompence you for the trouble of getting at it: to see it in perfection, you must creep down close to the foot of it.
When you return to Perth, provide bread to last you until you get to Inverness; and wine, and cold meat for your dinners; for you will find it much more comfortable to dine in your chaise while your horses are baiting, than take what you may find at the inns. Good water you may at all times, and in all places, procure. I eat and drank what I could get at the inns, where I passed the night, it being right to give the inn-keepers some profit for the use of their beds; but in the middle of the day, I found it delightful, to eat my cold meat in the carriage, at the same time satisfying my stomach, and feasting my eyes with the sight of rocks, and rivers; and my nose with cauler air.
From Perth to Dunkeld, 15 miles.
A good road, and very pleasant. You will pass by Murthly; near it Birnam wood, which, in appearance, will never recover its march to Dunsinane. Near Murthly, on the other side of the Tay, you will see two very pretty places, called Stenton, and Dungarthill. I recommend to you to go to the inn at Inver, where you may cross the Tay by a ferry, and see the numerous beauties of Dunkeld. On the Inver side of the Tay, go to the Hermitage, and the Rumbling Brig over the Brand, the same water that falls at the Hermitage: this Rumbling Brig is about a mile and a half above the Hermitage, and nearly a quarter of a mile out of the great road to Amulrie.
From Inver to Blair of Atholl, 20 miles.
At Blair you must halt, for much is to be seen: there is a good inn, I am told, but I was not at it. It will take you three days, at least, to see the beauties around, and at Blair; indeed, your eyes and mind will be feasted, during the whole of your way between Dunkeld and the plain of Atholl.
Nearly at the junction of the Tumel River with the Tay, is a very inconvenient ferry to Logierait, and from Logierait is a road to Tay Bridge, generally called Wade's Bridge, near which it joins the great road from Crieff to Inverness. By crossing Wade's Bridge the road from Logierait leads to Aberfeldie, and one way to Taymouth. There is another road to Taymouth, by keeping on the north side of Tay from Logierait, which will carry you to the inn at Weem, Castle Menzies, and a bridge over the Water of Lyon, to Kenmore, the small town at Taymouth.
Continuing to Blair of Atholl, you will follow the Tumel river to Fascallie, Butter's, Esq. You must ask leave to see that charming spot, and the fall of Tumel by it. At Fascallie the River Garrie joins the Tumel, where you quit the latter to keep by the Garrie, and immediately enter the pass of Killycrankie: in this pass walk down to the small bridge over the Garrie, leading to Rannoch; but it is no carriage road that way to Rannoch. The old road through the pass of Killycrankie was down the steep descent to the bridge, and it was tremendous. The new road now is extremely good, and nothing can excel it in beauty. About four miles short of Blair, below a house tolerably high on the right, you will see a field with a large stone set up in it: this is the field in which the battle of Killycrankie was fought in 1689, and the stone is the monument of Lord Dundee, who was there killed. About a mile and a half from Blair, high in the clouds, to the right, stands the house of Lude; this place you must go to see during your abode at Blair, for it is one of the prettiest estates in Scotland. It has no fine house to boast of; and it is somewhat difficult to get at, but its natural beauties exceed most places. See every thing, immediately, round the Duke of Atholl's castle, and, if you can get leave, drive to the forest Lodge, in Glen Tilt, and into Glen Bruar, and you will be delighted. See the Bruar falls on each side the river, or you will lose many very beautiful ones, to be seen only on the west side of the water. The great fall is to be seen best on the east side. The small town of Bruar is just three miles from Blair, on the Inverness road; and the falls of the water of Bruar are immediately at the north of the town. A little beyond the town of Bruar, go down to the banks of the Garrie, and you will see several very fine salmon leaps, particularly those which are about a quarter of a mile below the small bridge that leads to the Kirk-town of Strowan. It is, if you have time, well worth your trouble, to walk on each side of the water, that you may have every view of those falls.
From Blair you must send to Robertson, Esq. for leave to see Lude; go completely over it. Follow the Tilt, and see its falls, also the York Cascade, and the falls of the same burn above it; and conclude by visiting a fall of a burn higher up in Mr. Robertson's estate. It had no name when I was there proper for it; I therefore beg leave to name it, the Fall of Lude. It is uncommonly beautiful at all times, but it must be very grand indeed when full of water; do not miss the sight of it, if possible.
From Blair of Atholl to Dalnacardoch, 11 miles: a single house; it is only a middling inn, but the road to it is very good and pleasant. At Dalnacardoch, the road from Crieff, and from Rannoch, joins the Blair road, and when united, goes on to Inverness.
From Dalnacardoch to Dalwhinie inn, 13 miles.
You will drive by the River Garrie, till you can see it issuing from Loch Garrie, of which you will have a fine view from the small bridge over a burn, which you will cross within sight of the lake. At Dalwhinie you will find a very neat inn to sleep at. From Dalwhinie walk to see the head of Loch Ericht, which lies from north to south, and communicates with Loch Rannoch, by a river, at the distance of about eight miles, but there is no road of communication. Dalwhinie is in Invernessshire; and the district you pass, between it and Pitmain inn, is part of the country called Badenoch. Within half a mile after you quit Dalwhinie, you will see a road to the left, over wild mountains; it goes to Fort Augustus, over Corryarraick.
From Dalwhinie to Pitmain, 13 miles. A tolerable inn. From Dalwhinie you follow the Water of Truim, and cross it where there is a pretty fall, under the bridge; it is worth the trouble of leaving the carriage to look at it.
About three miles after you cross the water of Truim, look to the left for sublime black looking crags, between whose lofty sides runs the fine Spey River, which the Truim water joins, and when united, you will cross by a noble stone bridge, called Bridge of Spey. Not far from Pitmain there is a small lake amongst the hills to the left, and a few falls of a burn from it; but neither (even if they should be mentioned to you) are worth the fatigue of going after. Within sight of Pitmain inn is the grand hill called the Black Cock.
There is a great deal to be seen between Pitmain and Aviemore inn, 16 miles. During that stage you scarcely lose sight of the River Spey. About four miles from Pitmain the Spey enters Loch Inch, to the right. There is, a few miles farther on the road, to the left, a small lake, by which is Alvie Kirk. All around Aviemore is charming, particularly as the road winds down to the Spey. Within a mile of Aviemore you enter Murrayshire, and a short way from Aviemore, on the other side the river, is a beautiful looking place, called Rothamurchus, and a cluster of mountainous crags, amongst which is the frowning Cairngouram, where the finest Scotch pebbles are found.
You must pass your night at the single house of Aviemore; sleep you cannot expect, it being the worst inn (except King's House) that I met with in Scotland. All out of doors, however, is beautiful.
The new road to Dulsie bridge, 20 miles.
Nothing can be finer than the road itself, but there is little to be seen; almost the whole way being a wild heath. You had better take a feed for your horses from Aviemore, for though there is a house eight miles from Aviemore, where perhaps you may get some hay and water for them, but no corn. I breakfasted in the carriage at that small house door; but the good folks living there could furnish no part of the breakfast, or breakfast equipage, but boiling water and milk; both very good. I chose to breakfast in any manner, rather than at the dirty inn of Aviemore. As I dined in my chaise at the Brig of Dulsie, over the Findhorn river, I cannot say what sort of a house the inn is, in the inside of it; the outward appearance of it is neat; and all about the bridge is extremely romantic.
From Dulsie bridge to Fort George, 16 miles. The old military road cannot be travelled all the way in a carriage; and even much of the new part of the road is very rough and bad, till after you have crossed the River Nairn. Before you come to Calder Castle, as you are driving on, observe the entrance into Cromarty Firth, on the further side from you of the Murray Firth, which is the arm of the sea nearest to you. The old road leaves Calder at some distance to the right; the new road, which I went, goes close by its walls, on the left. Had I known it, I might, if I had chosen it, have seen the inside of the house at Calder, and the bed on which the unfortunate King Duncan was murdered, at Inverness Castle. As soon as you leave Calder, you will have to go through the Burn of Calder; it is passable; but it is frightful for the poor horses, by reason of the broad bed of huge stones in it.
In Fort George there is a tolerably good inn, and nothing can be more civil than the officers of the Fort; but no carriage is permitted to go up to the door of the inn, nor is there any covering for it; it must stand out in one of the streets of the Fort.
From Fort George to Inverness, 12 miles. In your way to Inverness you will see the ruin of Castle Stewart, Culloden house, and at a distance the field of battle; with the beautiful hills which surround Inverness, and Lochness. Take notice of a towering conical mountain to the south-west of Inverness; its height, colour, and shape, struck me prodigiously; it is on Lochness side, and nearly opposite to the Fall of Fyres: its name is Mealfour-vouny.
At Inverness there are two very good inns, where you may stay very comfortably.
The country of Aird, or Frazer country, is worth seeing. Rossshire is fine, I am told, and the Beauley ferry a safe one to it.
Your postillion must be careful of what water he gives his horses at Inverness, or they will get ill.
From Inverness visit Glen Urquhart, 14 miles. If you are able, you had better go on horseback, for the road to Urquhart, on the loch side, is not very good for a carriage; but Glen Urquhart, and the ruin of Castle Urquhart, should be seen. In the road to Glen Urquhart, a little way before you get to the great lake, observe Dochfour to the right. About a quarter of a mile short of Dochfour house, you will come to a burn; get off your horse, and walk up the side of that burn, and you will see more than one picturesque waterfall. Just at the lake, on the left, is a monastic ruin.
From Inverness to Fort Augustus, 32 miles.
I would advise you to set out very early indeed, from Inverness, for you cannot sleep at General's Hut; the only house between Inverness and Fort Augustus. While your horses are baiting at General's Hut, eat your meal as fast as you can, and take a guide to the Fall of Fyres, which is close by the road you are to go to Fort Augustus, and order the carriage to follow you to the fall; as soon as the horses shall be sufficiently rested. Should it happen to be wet weather, take loose in the chaise, stockings, shoes, and petticoats, for change; for you must be sure to go to the Green Bank, and round a promontory, some way below the fall; also to the bridge above the fall; and into some caves near the bridge. All this, if the ground should be wet, or raining, will render it too uncomfortable, if not dangerous, to proceed to Fort Augustus, without changing your clothes. The spray of the fall itself, if full, will, when you are at the Green Bank, make you wet through in five minutes. You will quit Lochness, when you leave the General's Hut, and will drive through a very uncommon district of mountains, jumbled together in a wonderful manner; it is called Strath, or Stra-Errick, which lies towards the Murray Firth, to the north-east, and towards Fort Augustus to the south-west. In this Strath you will pass near more than one small lake, and about four miles short of Fort Augustus you will come to Loch Andurive; when you will descend a long and exceeding steep hill, hanging over the rapid stream that comes from the lake, which joins, at the bottom of the hill, the River Doe, flowing out of Glen Doe. The small River Doe, in wet weather, runs furiously into Lochness, which you will, at the crossing of the Doe, be not far from. When you get to the top of the hill on the south side of the Doe, you will soon come in sight of Fort Augustus; the most august view I ever saw; therefore, on no account (if possible to be avoided) arrive at that spot in the dusk, which is likely to be the case, unless travellers set out very early from Inverness, and are not dilatory on the way. The hill is very steep down to Fort Augustus, but safe, with steady horses. The inn at Fort Augustus is tolerably good, and your horses will there get good accommodation.
From Fort Augustus you must see Glen Morrison, and a fall of water in it. There is also a pretty fall of a burn that runs into the Tarff, a short way from the Fort, and half a mile out of the road towards Corryarraick.
From Fort Augustus to Fort William, 29 miles.
The inns at Maryborough, the little town close by Fort William, are very bad, and dreadful for horses, as neither corn nor litter can be there procured for them; therefore carry corn from Fort Augustus; and even then, if your horses will not lie down without litter, they will be badly off. The inn kept by a Scotch woman has, if there be any, the preference in cleanliness, over that kept by an Englishman; but in either inn you will stand in need of your own blankets, &c. and eatables too, if you should have any with you. Should any thing tempt you to stay more than one night at Maryborough, see Glen Nivis by all means. Should Ben Nivis have its cap of cloud off, you will think it sublime; it is 4370 feet above the level of the sea, and the base of it is only one mile from the sea; for Loch Eil, close by which Fort William stands, is an arm of the sea.
The drive of twenty-nine miles between Fort Augustus and Fort William is wonderfully romantic and pastoral. You will, on leaving Fort Augustus, have the River Oich on the right, which runs from Loch Oich. About the middle of Loch Oich, on the other side from that where you will be, look at the entrance into Glen Gary; and at the ruins near Glen Gary's house. You will soon after come to the head of Loch Lochy; stop to admire the view there. About the mid-way of Loch Lochy you will arrive at Letter Findlay inn; you cannot possibly sleep at it; and if you have your dinner with you, and eat it in the carriage, all the better. Look at the bold hills opposite to Letter Findlay inn. At the south end of Loch Lochy, the contrary side from your road, is a beautiful glen; look into it as far as you can; there is a fine lake in it called Loch Arkeig, but I saw no road leading to it.
Four miles from Letter Findlay, you cross Low Bridge; three miles farther you will cross the River Spean, over High Bridge. The Spean runs into Loch Lochy. The height of the bridge denotes the rapidity of the stream in rainy seasons, or melting of snow. The road that turns to Badenoch, just before you cross the Spean, is no carriage road, but leads to Glen Roy, and Loch Spey (the source of the Spey River) and joins the Corryarraick road near the bridge over the Spey, not far from Garvimore inn.
About three or four miles before you get to Fort William, look before you to the left of Maryborough, distant from that town about a mile; and you will see Ben Nivis, with its craggy sides spotted with snow; also its white top, if not hid by the clouds, which is generally the case.
As I meant to go south, by passing over Corryarraick, I returned to Fort Augustus.
From Fort Augustus to Dalwhinie, 32 miles.
To the top of Corryarraick, better than 9 miles of the 32.
Hire a pair of horses at the inn at Fort Augustus (if you can), and put them before your own, and you will go up the mountain nicely. I was charged eight shillings for the pair I hired, and I sent them back as soon as I got to the summit of the hill; where I advise you to put on your great coat, for it will be cold when you get out of the chaise to look over the rough ocean of mountains, as far as the eye can see. If a fair clear day, the view is wonderfully striking; if rainy, it is a scene of desolation. At any rate, whether wet or dry, you will probably like to walk down the zigzag road before you; it may indeed be safe, though rough, to be in the carriage, if the drag-chain be on the wheel, and the driver leading the horses. The water on the right, as you come down the zig-zag, joins the Spey in the valley below, as it flows smoothly out of the cluster of Badenoch Hills; through which, as I have before mentioned, is a road (though not for a carriage), to Fort William, the beginning of which you saw at High Bridge.
Garvimore inn is a lone house, with which you can have nothing to do but to bait your horses at, it being a miserable place indeed. You must lose no time at Garvimore, for you will have a very rough and slow journey, thence to Dalwhinie, of 14 miles, and be in danger of accidents if out in the dark, or even dusk. For eight of the fourteen miles you will keep nearly to the Spey side; then that lovely river quits the road, to make its way through those tremendous crags, from whose black sides you saw it issue, before you crossed it at Spey Bridge, in your way to Pitmain.
As you advance, after quitting Garvimore, observe the sides of the hills till some way after you quit Spey side; and should the sun shine, you will see them glitter amazingly. Observe also the stones with which the fence walls are made, and you will see a very great mixture of ore in them.
From Dalnacardoch to the entrance into Rannoch, about 10 miles. After five of the ten, of very hilly zig-zag road, you will come to the small town of Trinefour; and just beyond the milestone on the top of the hill from Trinefour, look to the right for a track, that appears something like a road, over a wild heath, which will by a sad rough uneven way, bring you to a zig-zag road, in sight to the west two or three miles off; and that road will carry you to Rannoch; at the entrance of which you will see the high hill Schiehallion. If you pursue the road towards Tumel Bridge, to the bottom of the hill near the inn, and then turn towards Rannoch, where the direction-post stands, you will go out of your way, which I did, for want of knowing better, near seven miles, and a most villainous road into the bargain. If you have not a strong carriage, you must neither go over Corryarraick, nor into Rannoch, though both are well worth seeing. Should you, however, get into the road above described, from the direction-post into Rannoch, walk to the side of the river Tumel, where you will find a far finer fall of that river than you saw of it at Fascallie; the great noise of the fall will guide you to it. Should you mean to see Rannoch, I advise you to sleep at Dalnacardoch; take provision for yourselves and horses; set out very early, and go to Kinloch Rannoch, by the road that strikes off, about a mile from Trinefour, as I have before mentioned. The small town of Kinloch, situated just at the east end of Loch Rannoch, is about 13 miles from Dalnacardoch. At the top of the hill, where you catch the first sight of Loch Rannoch, look behind you, and you will have a fine view of Strath Tumel and Loch Tumel. If you have any acquaintance in Rannoch, with whom you can get a night's lodging, the whole of that district is well worth seeing; but if not, you must bait your horses at Kinloch, and then proceed on the south side of the river Tumel, winding round the base of Schiehallion, till you get into the Crieff road, which you quitted to the north of Tumel Bridge. It is a wild road, very rough and very hilly; but becomes very interesting before you get to the town of Cashaville. About a mile before you come to Cashaville, look on the right for a very curious waterfall; after that you will very soon come to the river Lyon, and pass Castle Menzies to the neat inn at Weem, about 24 miles from Kinloch Rannoch.
At Weem inn you ought to stay at least a whole day, to see the great beauties of Strath Tay, Appneydow, (in which Weem is situated), Wade's or Tay Bridge, the Falls of Moness, which are very fine; and many other interesting objects around that enchanting spot.
From Weem, through Aberfeldie, to Kenmore, by the road south of Tay, 7 miles. When you get to the separation of the road, keep the lowest track on the right, and, at the Lodge, you will get leave to go through the Park, where Lord Breadalbane's house stands; of which, by that means, you get a fine view.
At Kenmore you will find a good inn. See every thing around Taymouth, and take a long afternoon to drive into Glen Lyon; go over the Bridge of Lyon, and take the road in the glen north of the river, which will lead you to the Kirk; in the yard of which stands the famous large Yew-tree, now walled in; therefore a stranger must procure the key to the entrance of it, either from the worthy clergyman's, Mr. M'Kay, or some other house in the village. After you have seen the tree, go on, and cross a bridge; let your eye follow the river, and you will look towards the head of Glen Lyon, deep and dark. You must keep the road to the left, and it will bring you to Loch Tay. Do not go down the hill to the lake side, but turn short to the left by some houses, within sight of the lake; and that road will bring you likewise to the edge of the Loch a shorter way, and into the road on the north side of Loch Tay, from Killin, to Kenmore.
From Kenmore to Killin, 16 miles. The road on either side the lake is very good, and both are beautiful. If you have not seen Lord Breadalbane's Hermitage, by going the south road you may take it in your way. You will see Ben Lawers towering above the rest of the hills, about the midway of the lake, on the north side; and the lofty Benmore before you, many miles beyond Killin, on the side of Loch Dochart. At Killin is a very bad inn, very dear, and very dirty, bad wine, bad bread; in short, if you have nothing of your own with you to eat and drink, you will be very ill off: besides, the landlord in 1796, was a drunken saucy creature; and charged much higher, and provided far worse entertainment, both for man and beast, than any other innkeeper I met with. The misfortune is, there is but one inn at Killin, and there you must sleep. Pray, go into the glen, out of which the river Lochy flows. A few miles up that glen is a pretty waterfall. At the entrance of the glen you may cross a bridge, and by following the road towards the north side of the lake, you will soon come to some ruins of an old castle. Go up the hill behind the Manse, or clergyman's house. See also what is called Fingal's Grave. Killin itself is very curious, not forgetting Mr. M'Nab's burying-place, and the island on which it stands.
From Killin to Tyndrum, 21 miles; where you will find a lone house, a very decent inn, and the Bromars good civil sort of folks; there you must sleep. At about eight miles from Killin towards Tyndrum, there are two public houses, near to each other, equally bad, where travellers from Loch Earn Head, as well as from Killin, expect to bait their horses, but they will get no corn for them; therefore do you carry some for yours, from Killin. At neither of these houses can you, or your servants, eat any thing they can give you with comfort; and it is impossible to sleep there, both houses being mere dirty huts; therefore all travellers going that road to Fort William from Callender, should contrive to sleep at Tyndrum, as well as those from Killin; and to beware of the houses on the Moor. The road from Killin to Tyndrum, as soon as you get up the hill, joins the road that comes from Loch Earn Head, through Glen Ogle (which you looked into when you were at Loch Earn Head), and becomes extremely good. Many hands were at work upon that road in 1796; and, when completed, it will be as fine a drive of twenty-one miles as can be taken. Observe as you advance, the two high towering parts of Benmore, in Glen Dochart. About three miles beyond Loch Dochart to the left, you will see a road to Dumbarton, which, if passable for a carriage, would be charming to go to that place, through Glen Fallach, and by the side of Loch Lomond, from the head to the foot, the length of which is full 24 miles; but unless Government mends that road, it will never be possible for a carriage to pass it with safety, as great part of it lies upon a shelf hanging over the lake.
Close by Tyndrum are great lead mines. In Glen Fillan is a holy well, famous for curing diseases. The water that runs by Tyndrum is called the Fillan, and rises about a mile above the house, in those huge hills hanging over the road to Fort William. There is a very pretty fall of the Fillan a short way north of the inn; this water is, in fact, the chief source of the river Tay, and is so called, when it runs from Loch Dochart.
When I was at Tyndrum, I wished to see Glen Coe.
From Tyndrum to King's House inn, 18 miles. At the inn, or hut, halfway thither, you can get nothing but meal and water for your horses. The road to King's House is very hilly, but that part of it over the Black Mount (a district so called), which was, some time back, the worst part of it, is now the best. The road is very bad about Auch, three miles from Tyndrum; but look at the hills, particularly those around you when you cross a stream at Auch, which runs out of those mountains. Four miles farther, when you cross the Orchy river by the mill (this is one part of Glen Orchy), keep the road close by the river; it is a new one, and very good; it will bring you to the half-way hut, called Inverounon, near Loch Tollie. The Black Mount is before you, over which you will directly pass, by a fine new road; which, though very hilly, it is nothing like so much so as the old road was.
The first sight of King's House is striking, from its extremely wild situation. Near the spot where you have first a view of King's House, look to the right, and you will perceive Rannoch, and Schiehallion at the east end of it. King's House is a miserable place, fit only for drovers; but having my chief necessaries with me, I did not much feel its comfortless state, except from the closeness of the room, and the intolerable smoke pervading the whole house. My horses were tired, I therefore hired a cart with one horse, and an Highlandman to lead it, and went 9 miles into Glen Coe; for which I was charged nine shillings. In going to Glen Coe, as soon as you leave King's House, you strike amongst the huge mountains leading to the head of Glen Coe; behind those to the north, lies Ben Nivis; to the south, Argyle Forest, leading to Loch Etive. The road down into Glen Coe is bad, but carriages may and do go through it, as it is now one way to Fort William. The road to Fort William, over the Black Mount, was not always through this glen. You will see the old road striking off from the present one, about three miles and a half from King's House on the right, where there is a direction-post. It goes up, a zig-zag, the front of a prodigious steep hill; to go down it on the ether side, I was told, is infinitely more tremendous; and, from its danger and difficulty, it is called the Devil's Staircase. That road to Fort William is shorter, and passes by the head of Loch Leven, without a ferry. The road now used through Glen Coe, is by the ferry of Ballacoalish, or, as it is called, Balhulish, which crosses Loch Leven near its mouth.
I was told the Appin road from Balhulish is very pleasant, better for a carriage than through Glen Coe, and oftener travelled; but there are two ferries to cross, besides Balhulish, one over Loch Creran, the other over Loch Etive, near the fall of that lake into the sea, which is one of the finest cascades in the world, at spring tides. But having left my trunk at Tyndrum, I was obliged to return thither for it.
Should you go into Glen Coe, observe the hills and fine waterfalls at the head of the glen, which is the nearest part of it to King's House.
From Tyndrum to Dalmally, 12 miles. I got thither from King's House in one day; but it was too dusk when I arrived in Glen Orchy; for the views around Dalmally are well worth seeing, with good light; therefore set out very early from King's House, and lose no time by the way. It would be a pity to miss the glen from Tyndrum to Dalmally, particularly the end of it, where you will first get a sight of the Paradise of that part of Glen Orchy, around Dalmally, having Loch Awe and Cruchan Ben in the back ground.
Dalmally inn is a tolerable one; I would therefore advise you, if you have never been at Bunawe, nor Oban, to go thither from Dalmally; I did not, which I am extremely sorry for, and therefore lost the sight of the cascade of Loch Etive.
I was told, after I had left that quarter, by gentlemen who had been at the Island of Staffa, that the road was very good to Bunawe and Oban.
From Dalmally to Bunawe, 13 miles.
From Bunawe to Oban, I believe, 12 miles.
I cannot say what accommodations may be had at either place, but I should suppose tolerably good, as Bunawe is in the Appin road from Fort William to Inveraray, and Oban is the place of passage to the Isles of Mull and Staffa. The beauties from Dalmally to Bunawe must be charming, by the side of the river Awe that runs from the loch, and at the base of Cruchan.
Bunawe lies on the side of Loch Etive, about halfway from its head to its foot. At the foot of Loch Etive, is the above mentioned wonderful cascade of it, into the sea. The road from Bunawe to Oban continues by the lake's side to the cascade, and afterwards by the sea side.
There is another road to the south of the river Awe, from Bunawe to Inveraray, without coming back to Dalmally, and I was told it was good and beautiful; but by taking that road you must cross Loch Awe by Onal Ferry to Port Sonochan.
To continue my route. From Dalmally to Inveraray, 16 miles. There is a good inn at the town of Inveraray; in your way thither observe Gichurn Castle in ruins, on a peninsula, where the river Orchy empties itself into the lake. Loch Awe is 30 miles long: observe the beautiful islands in it; also the river Awe which flows from it.
About six miles from Dalmally, nearly where the road from Port Sonochan joins the Dalmally road, you will cross a bridge over a furious water (if a rainy day), and soon lose sight of Loch Awe, and enter a wild tract of ground, till you come within the boundaries of Inveraray. If you look to the left as you go up the hills, about three miles above the bridge, and it be a hard rain, which is generally the case in those regions, you will see and hear nothing but tumbling waters, and loud roaring mountain torrents, from every part; but particularly look for a very fine foaming fall of a branch of the water you crossed below; it is at a considerable distance from the road to the left; but, probably, in a dry day, it may be neither seen nor heard. Very soon after you quit the head of that water running to Loch Awe, you will join (near its source) the river Aray, which rolls by on the left: you will then descend stupendous mountains, and wind round their bases.
About two miles before you arrive at Inveraray, in a very narrow woody part of the road, look for a fall of the Aray, over which is a wooden bridge. Should it be raining, and the river in any sort of flood, that fall will be magnificent; at all times it must be beautiful: its noise will be your guide to it. Take every view of it you can.
At Inveraray there is much to be seen: besides the castle, see Glen Shyra; the fine timber towards the road to Ila, and about the tree called the Marriage Tree; take the drive by the River Douglas, and to the bridge over it; see the fall under the bridge.
Loch Fine (on the side of which Inveraray is built) is a beautiful salt water lake.
From Inveraray to Cairndow inn, 10 miles. A neat house.
To Aroquhar inn, 12 miles. A very good house; where you must sleep, and take care you have sufficient time to get thither by daylight, for it is a very tedious, hilly stage; but a boundless feast for the mind all the way. Immediately on leaving Cairndow, you will enter Glen Kinglass; and that part of it over which you will go, is nearly four miles in length; at the end of your road through it, is, to the left, a foot-way to the head of Loch Lomond. As soon as you cross the Kinglass water you will turn short, up a steep hill. Look at the waterfall facing you. When you get to the highest part of the road, you will meet with a small black looking lake. That spot is an awful one. The hill is called "The Hill of Rest and be thankful," from an inscription to that purport on a stone set up on the side of the road, just before you descend the zig-zag into Glen Croe. There never was such a place seen as Glen Croe, for wildness, and roaring torrents: besides, it almost always rains at Glen Croe.
From Glen Croe you will come down upon the side of Loch Long (the Lake of Ships). Go round the head of it, and keep the road close by the lake's side till you come to the Aroquhar inn. If, after you have turned round the head of the lake, you keep the straight upper road, you will miss Aroquhar, and get to Tarbet inn, on Loch Lomond side; but that is not a house you can sleep at; otherwise, being directly opposite to Ben Lomond, it would be pleasant. If you have time, I would advise you to stay a day or two at Aroquhar, and go all about the banks of Loch Long.
From Aroquhar to Luss, 10 miles. At Luss is a small, but a tolerable inn: there you should hire a boat; go upon the lake, and land upon some of the islands.
Those who wish to go to the top of Ben Lomond, generally go to the sad small inn of Tarbet, for the convenience of a boat on the other side of the lake, which is obliged to fetch travellers across for a stated sum; a trifle, two-pence I believe; but if you order the boatmen to deviate in the least, in order to see more of the lake, they will impose upon you dreadfully. In a fine clear day the view from the top of Ben Lomond must be prodigiously fine; but it is a very fatiguing business to get at it. Near Luss is Sir James Colquhoun's.
From Luss to Dumbarton, 10 miles. Near Dumbarton is Dr. Smollet's monument, on the side of the road.
Just after you quit Loch Lomond, to the left, is a road to Balloch boat, a ferry that will set you in the Stirling road from Dumbarton; but the inn at Drumen, close by the gate to Buchanan, the Duke of Montrose's, is intolerably bad; you cannot sleep there, nor even eat without extreme disgust.
At Dumbarton, see the Castle.
Should you wish to get to the base of Ben Lomond, by the road on the east side of the lake, I am told there is a charming one made to it by the Duke of Montrose. When I was at Dumbarton I had not seen Loch Catheine, I therefore went across the country from Dumbarton to Callender in one day.
To Drumen, 11 miles. Good road.
From Drumen, through Gartmore, to Callender, 19 miles, of as bad road as ever carriage went. If you should ever go that day's journey you must set out very early, for it is a sad tedious thirty miles. At the inn at Drumen the road to Stirling turns one way, and that to Gartmore another, up a very steep bad road, leading to the wildest of all wild moors. A little beyond Gartmore I crossed a branch of the Forth River, running from Loch Aird, and Ben Lomond. At this branch of the Forth I joined a tolerable looking road coming from Loch Aird, and the north-east base of Ben Lomond; but it is not fit for a carriage. I followed the road to the right, leading to the towns of Thornhill, Stirling, and Doune; which road I kept in for some miles, passing near Loch Monteith, and then turned up a steep dreary road leading over the hills to Callender. The view from those hills into the vale, about Callender, is very fine.
Directions of what is to be seen at Calender, and near it, are already given; I will, therefore, return to my journey. From Dumbarton to Glasgow, 14 miles.
See Dunglass Castle ruins, about three miles above Dumbarton, upon the banks of Clyde River.
There is much to be seen at Glasgow, Paisley, &c. The hotels at Glasgow are good; the Star the most quiet.
From Glasgow to Hamilton, by Bothwell Castle, which you must stop to see, 12 miles.
From Hamilton to Lanark, by the new road, 15 miles.
It is a very beautiful drive from Hamilton to Lanark; look at the Avon River as you cross it, about a mile from Hamilton.
When you come within a few miles of the town of Lanark, inquire for the fine fall of Clyde, called Stone Biers Force; go to the white seat you will see to the left of the road, look at the fall from it, and then go up the river, to the mill-house, and get some one there to shew you the way down close by the mill, to the very bottom of the fall, where you will see it in all its grandeur. It is a very fatiguing bad descent for women; but I went down it, and found it to be safe, with care, and some degree of activity.
At Lanark there is a new, very clean inn.
Whilst at Lanark you must see Lee Place, Cartland Crags, and walk up the bed of the River Mouse, running through them, if the water be not too high.
Also see Carstairs House, Boniton, and the falls of Clyde there. The Corie Lin is best seen on Lady Ross's side of the river. The Boniton falls, about a mile above Corie Lin, may be seen best on the Corie side; but if you cannot get to Corie, do not fail to go beyond the square stone building erected by Lady Ross, for the purpose of viewing the Boniton falls; for to see those falls in perfection you must get close to them. They are three falls together. Some people prefer the beauty of Boniton falls to that of Corie Lin. Get down to Wallace's Seat over the Lin, and creep to a part of the river, a little above the Lin, so narrow that a dexterous leaper might, from rock to rock, skip over it. See also Mr. Dale's cotton works. By walking from those works to Boniton, and back again, which is not much more than half a mile, and beautiful all the way, you will save a long round in a carriage, by a road not at all worth seeing.
From Lanark to Douglas Mill inn, 12 miles.
A bad inn; but a new one was building in 1796. Douglas Castle is about two miles from the inn, in the road towards Ayr. You must be sure to set out very early from Lanark, that you may reach Moffat before dark, it being impossible to put up at Elvan Foot; you can there only change horses, and those you will seldom get very good, for that country being very hilly, the poor horses are worked to death.
From Douglas Mill to Elvan Foot, 15 miles.
At Elvan Foot, the Elvan water joins the Clyde, which you there cross; and about four miles farther you will cross it again near its source.
Just before you descend the long and steep hill that leads down into Annandale, you will join the Edinburgh road to Moffat, and you will then be not far off the source of Tweed.
Moffat is situated near the head of Annandale, and is distant from Elvan Foot, 14 miles. The country about Moffat is worth looking at, and the inn there is very good.
There are medicinal wells, or Spa, within a mile of the town; and there is, worth seeing, a cataract, called the Grey Mare's Tail. Two miles before you reach Moffat you cross the Moffat Water; and two miles after you leave the town, in going south, you will cross another branch of the River Annan, which, when united to the Moffat Water, and other branches, takes the name of Annan, then flows on to the foot of Annandale, and falls into Solway Firth, by the town of Annan.
From Moffat to Lockerby, 16 miles. A very bad inn. At Ecclefechan, also, there is a bad inn; and it is a poor town too.
From Lockerby to Longtown, 20 miles.
I rather chose to go on to Longtown than stop at Gretna; because, in 1796, I paid a shilling a mile in England, and in Scotland fourteen pence; but if no such objection should exist, it will be best to change horses at Gretna Green, unless you propose sleeping at Longtown, where there is a very nice inn. The inn which is called the Hall, at Gretna Green, looks a spacious good house.