An account of a voyage to establish a colony at Port Philip in Bass's Strait on the south coast of New South Wales, in His Majesty's Ship Calcutta, in the years 1802-3-4/Chapter 5
CHAP. V.
THE week following our arrival at Port Philip was occupied in searching for an eligible place to fix the settlement. As it was of the first consequence that this should be of easy access to shipping, the shores near the mouth of the port were, first examined. Here, to our great mortification, we observed a total want of fresh water, and found the soil so extremely light and sandy as to deny all hopes of successful cultivation. As it was, however, determined to land the people, a small bay, eight miles from the harbour's mouth, was pitched upon for that purpose, where by sinking casks, water of a tolerable quality was procured, and here the camp was pitched; and on the 16th of October, the marines and convicts were landed, while the ships immediately began to discharge their cargoes.
On the first days of our landing, previous to the general debarkation, Capt. Woodriff, Colonel Collins, and the First Lieutenant of the Calcutta had some interviews with the natives, who came to the boats entirely unarmed, and without the smallest symptom of apprehension; presents of blankets, biscuit, &c. were given to them, with which, except in one instance, they departed satisfied and inoffensive. The wash streak of the boat striking one of their fancies, he seized it and threw it behind the bushes; to shew him the impropriety of this, the blankets which had before been given them were taken away, and they were made to understand, that they would not be restored until the board was brought back by him who conveyed it away: this, after some delay and much reluctance, was at last done.
Though the vicinity of the harbour's mouth afforded no situation calculated for the establishment of the colony, it was naturally expected from the extent of the port, (its extremes being sunk in the horizon,) that convenient spots might be found; and the First Lieutenant of the Calcutta, with two boats, was directed to ascertain this material point, by as careful a survey of the port as time would permit. From the reports of this survey, made to Capt. Woodriff, the following descriptive particulars are extracted.
Port Philip lies in the bottom of a deep bight between Cape Albany Otway and Point Schank. Coming from the westward, the Port may be known by a single bluff head-land without trees, rising from low land, thickly wooded, about four leagues to the westward of the entrance, to which we gave the name of Whale-head, from its resemblance to that fish. The prevalence of southerly winds renders Port Philip easily accessible, but in the same proportion the egress is difficult, for Point Schank bearing S.E. and Cape Otway S.W. it is obvious that with the wind at south a ship would not clear either, and the heavy swell that constantly tumbles on the coast between Port Philip and Western Port, will often render it impossible (particularly in light winds) to keep off the shore, which here presents a continued barrier of rock, that denies the smallest hopes of escape to those dashed upon it.
The face of the country bordering on the port is beautifully picturesque; swelling into gentle elevations of the brighest verdure, and dotted with trees, as if planted by the hand of taste, while the ground is covered with a profusion of flowers of every colour; in short, the external appearance of the country flattered us into the most delusive dreams of fruitfulness and plenty.
The soil (except in a few places where marle is found mixed with vegetable mould,) is invariably sandy, and its blackness proceeds from the ashes of the burnt grass, which has every where been set fire to by the natives. The proportion of sand varies, and in some spots the soil may be sufficiently strong to produce vegetables, and, perhaps, Indian corn; but it may safely be asserted, that (excepting a few acres at the head of the port) no spot within five miles of the water will produce wheat or any other grain that requires either much moisture or good soil. On some of the highest elevations an arid sea-sand is found, giving nourishment to no other vegetable than heath and fern. The bases of the hills consist of very coarse granite, which is here found in every stage of formation, from grains, scarcely adhering, and crumbling into sand between the fingers, to the perfect stone which almost defies the chissel.
The great scarcity of water is one of the greatest disadvantages the port labours under. In the narrow glens between the hills, the marks of watercourses are visible, but at this time (October) they are mostly dried up; pools of fresh water are found scattered about the port, but they are merely drains from swamps, and from their stagnation are strongly impregnated with decayed vegetable substances.
On the eastern side of the port, twenty-eight miles from the entrance, a stream of fresh water empties itself into the port. This stream runs through an extensive swamp, and appears to be a branch from a large river, at the northern extremity of the port, which the shortness of time and badness of the weather prevented our examining. The bed of this stream is covered with foliaceous mica, which our people at first conceived to be gold dust, and thence expected they had discovered, an El dorado.
On the west side .of the port is an extensive lagoon, the water of which is too shoal to admit even small boats but at full tides; and in several places salt lagoons are found, generally closed by the beach, where ducks, teal, and swans are found in abundance.
The timber, within five miles of the beach, is chiefly the she-oak, which is only fit for cabinet work; the trees are open, and the country is entirely free from under-wood, except in the swamps, which are always covered with an impenetrable brush. The other kinds of timber trees are very thinly scattered within the above limits; they are the blue-gum, stringy-bark, honeysuckle, box, and a kind of pine; of these the three first grow to a large size, and when sound, would probably be useful in ship-building. From the lightness of the soil, as well as its want of depth, the trees shoot their roots horizontally, and having no hold of the ground, are blown down in great numbers by every strong wind.
Of potable vegetables, wild celery, wild parsnip, scurvy-grass, and samphire, were found in great abundance, and several other kinds were eaten by our people[1]. The only fruits we found were the cone of the she-oak, which, when green, has a pleasantly acid taste, and a small berry, called by the colonists the Port Jackson cherry.
The kangaroo is the largest animal yet discovered in New Holland; it inhabits the neighbourhood of Port Philip in considerable numbers, weighing from 50 to 150lb.; the native dog, the opossum, flying squirrel, and field-rat make up the catalogue of animals we observed.
Aquatic birds are found in abundance on the lagoons, and are black swans, ducks, teal, black and pied shags, pelicans, gulls, red-bills (a beach bird), herons, curlews, and sand larks; the land birds are eagles, crows, ravens, quail, bronze-winged pigeons, and many beautiful varieties of the parrot tribe, particularly the large black cockatoo; the emue is also a native of this part of the country, its eggs having been found here; Three varieties of snakes were observed, all of which appeared to be venomous. The species of insects are almost innumerable: among them are upwards of one hundred and fifty different kinds of beautiful moths; several kinds of beetles, the animated straw, &c. The swamps are inhabited by myriads of musquitoes of an extraordinary size; but the common fly, which swarms almost beyond belief, possesses all the offensive powers of the musquitoe, its sting creating an equal degree of pain and inflammation. Wasps are also common, but no bees were seen.
Fish, it may safely be asserted, is so scarce that it could never be depended on as a source of effectual relief in the event of scarcity. Several varieties of the ray were almost the only ones caught, with sometimes a few mullet, and other small fish; in general, a day's work with the seine produced scarcely a good dish of fish. The number of sharks which infest the harbour may occasion this scarcity of small fish. The rocks outside the harbour's mouth are frequented by seals and sea-elephants. The shell-fish are oysters, limpits, mussels, escalops, cockles, sea-ears; and very large cray-fish are found among the rocks.
Deeming minerals, as well as limestone, coal, and clays, of the greatest consequence to the colony, particular attention was paid to searching for them; the only appearance of minerals was in large masses of iron-stone, in some specimens of which, the shape, colour, and weight seemed to authorise the conclusion of its richness.[2]. Lime-stone was found in many places, but the search for coal was fruitless. Several kinds of clay fit for pottery, bricks, &c. were found in abundance, but always, more or less, mixed with sand; indeed, after displacing a thin covering of sand and ashes, the bottom, in most places, was found to be a soft friable sand-stone of a yellowish colour.
With respect to climate, we had not sufficient time to judge of its effects on the human constitution; the vicissitudes of heat and cold are very great, the thermometer varying from 50° to 96°, between sun-rise and noon of the same day; and on the 19th and 21st of October it froze pretty smartly at the head of the port. The N.W. winds, which come on in violent squalls, have all the disagreeable effects of the sirocco of the Levant, but seldom last more than an hour, when the wind returns to the S.W. with thunder, lightning, and rain[3].
The N.W. side of the port, where a level plain extends to the northward as far as the horizon, appears to be by far the most populous; at this place, upwards of two hundred natives assembled round the surveying boats, and their obviously hostile intentions made the application of fire-arms absolutely necessary to repel them, by which one native was killed, and two or three wounded. Previous to this time, several interviews had been held with separate parties, at different places, during which the most friendly intercourse was maintained, and endeavoured to be strengthened on our part, by presents of blankets, beads, &c. At these interviews they appeared to have a perfect knowledge of the use of fire-arms; and as they seemed terrified even at the sight of them, they were kept entirely out of view. The last interview which terminated so unexpectedly hostile, had at its commencement the same friendly appearance. Three natives, unarmed, came to the boats, and received fish, bread, and blankets. Feeling no apprehension from three naked and unarmed savages, the First Lieutenant proceeded with one boat to continue the survey, while the other boat's crew remained on shore to dress dinner and procure water. The moment the first boat disappeared the three natives took leave, and in less than an hour returned with forty more, headed by a chief who seeded to posses much authority, This party immediately divided, some taking off the attention of the people who had charge of the tent, (in which was Mr. Harris the surveyor of the colony,) while the rest surrounded the boats, the oars, masts, and sails of which were used in erecting the tent. Their intention to plunder was immediately visible, and all the exertions of the boat's crew were insufficient to prevent their possessing themselves of a tomahawk, an axe and a saw. In this situation, as it was impossible to get the boat away, every thing belonging to her being on shore, it was thought advisable to temporise, and wait the return of the other boat, without having recourse to fire-arms, if it could possibly be avoided; and for this purpose, bread, meat, and blankets were given them. These condescensions, however, seemed only to increase their boldness, and their numbers having been augmented by the junction of two other parties, amounted to more than two hundred. At this critical time the other boat came in sight, and observing the crowd and tumult at the tent, pushed towards them with all possible dispatch. Upon approaching the shore, the unusual warlike appearance of the natives was immediately observed, and as they seemed to have entire possession of the tent, serious apprehensions were entertained for Mr. Harris and two of the boat's crew, who it was noticed were not at the boat. At the moment that the grapnel was hove out of the Lieutenant's boat, to prevent her taking the ground, one of the natives seized the master's mate, who had charge of the other boat, and held him fast in his arms, a general cry of "Fire, Sir; for God's sake, fire!" was now addressed from those on shore to the First Lieutenant. Hoping the report only would sufficiently intimidate them, two muskets were fired over their heads; for a moment they seemed to pause, and a few retreated behind the trees, but immediately returned, clapping their hands, and shouting vehemently. Four musquets with buck shot, and the fowling-pieces of the gentlemen with small shot, were now fired among them, and from a general howl very different from their former shouts, many were supposed to be struck. This discharge created a general panic, and leaving their cloaks behind, they ran in every direction among the trees. It was hoped the business would have terminated here, and orders were, therefore, given to strike the tent, and prepare to quit the territory of such disagreeable neighbours. While thus employed, a large party were seen again assembling behind a hill, at the foot of which was our tent: they advanced in a compact body to the brow of the hill, every individual armed with a spear, and some, who appeared to be attendants of others, carrying bundles of them; when within an hundred yards of us they halted, and the chief, with one attendant, came down to the tent, and spoke with great vehemence, holding a very large war spear in a position for throwing. The First Lieutenant, wishing to restore peace if possible laid down his gun, and advancing to the chief, presented him with several cloaks, necklaces, and spears, which had been left behind on their retreat; the chief took his own cloak and necklace, and gave the others to his attendant. His countenance and gestures all this time betrayed more of anger than fear, and his spear appeared every moment upon the point of quitting his hand. When the cloaks were, all given up, the body on the hill began to descend, shouting and flourishing their spears. Our people were immediately drawn up, and ordered to present their musquets loaded with ball, while a last attempt was made to convince the chief, that if his people continued to approach they would be immediately fired upon. These threats were either not properly understood, or were despised, and it was deemed absolutely necessary for our own safety, to prove the power of our fire-arms, before they came near enough to injure us with their spears; selecting one of the foremost, who appeared to be most violent, as a proper example, three musquets were fired at him at fifty yards distance, two of which took effect, and he fell dead on the spot, the chief turning round at the report saw him fall, and immediately fled among the trees; a general dispersion succeeded, and the dead body was left behind.
Among these savages, gradations of rank could be distinctly traced, founded most probably upon personal qualities, and external appearance. In these respects the chief far excelled the rest; his figure was masculine and well-proportioned, and his air bold and commanding. When first he was seen approaching the boat, he was raised upon the shoulders of two men, and surrounded by the whole party, shouting and clapping their hands. Besides his cloak, which was only distinguished by its superior size, he wore a necklace of reeds, and several strings of human hair over his breast. His head was adorned with a coronet of the wing-feathers of the swan, very neatly aranged, and which had a pleasing effect. The faces of several were painted with red, white, and yellow clays[4], and others had a reed or bone ran through the septum of the nose, perhaps increasing in length according to rank, for the chiefs was by far the longest, and must have measured at least two feet. Ornamental scars on the shoulders were general, and the face of one was deeply pitted as if from the smallpox, though that disease is not known to exist in New Holland[5]. A very great difference was observed in the comparative cleanliness of these savages; some of them were so abominably beastly, that it required the strongest stomach to look on them without nausea, while others were sufficiently cleanly to be viewed without disgust. The beards, which are remarkably bushy, in the former were allowed to grow, while in the latter they were cut close, apparently by a sharp instrument, probably a shell.
The only covering they make use of, to preserve their persons from the winter's cold, is a square cloak of opossum skins, neatly sewed together, and thrown loosely over their shoulders; the fleshy side, which is worn inwards, is marked with parallel lines, forming squares, lozenges, &c. and sometimes with uncouth human figures in the attitudes of dancing.
Their arms are spears, used with a throwing stick, like those of Port Jackson; their shields are made of a hard wood and neatly carved; their war-spears are barbed with pieces of white spar, or shark's teeth, fastened on with red gum, and within a certain distance must be very dangerous offensive weapons. Their fish-gigs are pointed with the bone of the kangaroo, and with them they strike the rays which lay in shoal water. We saw no fish-hooks, nor other implements for fishing in deep water, nor any appearance of canoe, or other water conveyance[6]. Their food consists chiefly of shell-fish, and their ingenuity in procuring more substantial aliment, seems confined to the construction of a rude trap, upon the projecting points of the harbour, where the water-fowl lighting at night are entangled and caught. The scarcity of food must at times reduce them to great extremities. If they ever quit the vicinity of the water, their sole subsistence must be on lizards, grubs, and the few opossums they may be able to kill; for the kangaroo, both by its activity and wariness, I should suppose to be out of the reach of their weapons, or their ingenuity. The skins of these animals having never been seen with the natives corroborates this opinion, and it is probable, that the bones with which their fish-gigs are pointed, are those of animals which have died a natural death. That they scruple not to eat lizards and grubs, as well as a very large worm found in the gum-trees, we had ocular demonstration; indeed the latter they seem to consider a very great delicacy. Bread, beef, and fish, which they received from us, they devoured with great eagerness, swallowing large pieces without chewing, as if afraid of its being taken from them, but in no instance could we get them to drink. Spirits they appeared to dislike from the smell alone, and sweet punch they would taste and spit out again with disapprobation. They chew the green leaves of various plants, several of which had a slight stringent taste, and an aromatic smell.
Their huts merely serve the purpose of temporary shelter from the weather, They are constructed of branches of trees placed slanting and open on one side, which is always to leeward; if a fallen tree is near, it usually serves to support the hut, and sometimes when coarse grass is convenient, it is interwoven with the branches. Their fires are made at the very entrance of the huts, and if the wind shifts must be immediately removed. We had no opportunity of observing their method of first kindling a fire, as the parties we saw had always a fire-brand with them, by which, and a little dry grass, they soon made a "roaring blaze."
The only traces of society we could observe, was in a cluster of five huts, near which a well of brackish water was probably the only inducement to so close a neighbourhood. How they supply themselves with water in general we were at a loss to guess, for, upon the closest examination, none was found within several miles of the place where they had constructed their huts.
We had a sufficient proof of their burying their dead, by finding a human skeleton three feet under ground, while digging for water; its decayed state evinced its having been in the ground long before the arrival of any European at this port.
The only domestic utensil observed among them was a straw basket, made with tolerable neatness. Their cookery is confined to broiling, in which they are not very delicate; for the fish they sometimes received from us were put on the fire, and devoured without the useless preparation of gutting, cleaning, &c. Blankets they received with much satisfaction; but though several to whom they were given paid us visits afterwards, their blankets were always left behind, and they presented themselves shivering with cold. This manœuvre might probably have been intended to induce a repetition of the gift, unless we suppose them to have been given to their women, which would argue a degree of civilization, from which they are immeasurably removed. Though in our first interviews they seemed to be stupidly devoid of curiosity, and viewed our persons and boats with the most perfect indifference yet their latter conduct shews, that many of our conveniences appeared valuable, and fear was at last found much more powerful in deferring them from appropriating those things to themselves, than any idea of right or wrong.
The natives of this part of New South Wales appear to differ very little from those in the vicinity of Port Jackson; the same cast of features bespeaks the same origin; their arms, their ornaments, and their dances, are much alike, and they seem to differ only in language, and in the ceremony of knocking out a front tooth of every male, those of Port Philip having their jaws perfect. One woman only was seen, who retired by desire of the men on our approach, and one boy paid us a visit, from whose conduct we could not infer the existence of a great degree of subordination, founded on difference of age; this youngster was more loquacious and troublesome than the men.
Nothing could offer a more perfect picture of reposing solitude, than the wilds of Port Philip on our first arrival. Here Contemplation, with her musing sister Melancholy, might find an undisturbed retreat. Often at the calm hour of evening I have wandered through the woods,
Where the rude ax with heaved stroke
Was never heard the nymphs to daunt,
Or fright diem from their hallowed haunts
The last hymn of the feathered choiristers to the setting sun, and the soft murmurs of the breeze, faintly broke the death-like silence that reigned around; while the lightly trodden path of the solitary savage, or the dead ashes of his fire, alone pointed out the existence of human beings. In the course of a very few weeks the scene was greatly altered; lanes were cut in the woods for the passage of the timber carriages; the huts of the woodmen were erected beneath the sheltering branches of the lofty trees; the "busy hum" of their voices, and the sound of their axes, reverberating through the woods, denoted the exertions of social industry, and the labours of civilization. At other times, sitting on the carriage of a gun, in front of the camp, I have contemplated with succeeding emotions of pity, laughter, and astonishment, the scene before me. When I viewed so many of my fellow-men, sunk, some of them from a rank in life, equal or superior to my own, and by their crimes degraded to a level with the basest of mankind; when I saw them naked, wading to their shoulders in water to unlade the boats, while a burning sun struck its meridian rays upon their uncovered heads, or yoked to and sweating under a timber carriage, the wheels of which were sunk tip to the axle in sand, I only considered their hapless lot, and the remembrance of of their vices was for a moment absorbed in the greatness of their punishment; I exclaimed with enthusiasm,
'Tis liberty alone that gives the flower
Of fleeting life its lustre and perfume,
And we are weeds without it.
When, on the other hand, I viewed the lively appearance of the camp, the employments of the women, and the ridiculous dilemmas into which they were every moment thrown by the novelty of their situations, I smiled, and inwardly admiring the pliability of mind, which enables us to accommodate ourselves to the vicissitudes of fortune, confessed that the pride of independence, and the keen sensibility of prosperity, like marks imprinted on the sand, are soon effaced by the current of adverse circumstances. What once seemed more valuable than life itself, even female virtue, grows weaker by degrees, and at last fails; a sacrifice to present convenience; so true is the poet's exclamation, that "want wilt perjure the ne'er-touch'd vestal."
And now again, when I considered the motives; when I contrasted the powers, the ingenuity, and the resources of civilized man, with the weakness, the ignorance, and the wants of the savage he came to dispossess I acknowledged the immensity of human intelligence, and felt thankful for the small portion dispensed to myself. These thoughts naturally led to the contemplation of future possibilities. I beheld a second Rome, rising from a coalition of banditti. I beheld it giving laws to the world, and superlative in arms and in arts, looking down with proud superiority upon the barbarous nations of the northern hemisphere; thus running over the airy visions of empire, wealth, and glory, I wandered amidst the delusions of imagination.
The unfavourable account given of Port Philip, by the First Lieutenant of the Calcutta, immediately presented the necessity of removing the colony to a more eligible situation, but from a total want of knowledge respecting any recent discoveries, which might have been made on the neighbouring coasts, it was deemed necessary to receive instructions on this head from the Governor in Chief at Port Jackson. The Ocean transport, being now discharged, was to proceed on her voyage to China, and could not, therefore, be detained without a heavy expence to government. Thus the only means left of communicating with Port Jackson was by an open boat; a six oared cutter was accordingly fitted for the purpose, in which Mr. Collins (who came out on a sealing speculation) undertook to convey the Lieutenant Governor's dispatches. After being nine days at sea, and encountering much bad weather, he was picked up by the Ocean (who sailed six days after him), within sixty miles of Port Jackson, and by her conveyed thither. Governor King, from a correct survey of Port Philip, made by Mr. Grimes, the Surveyor-General of the Colony, was already convinced of its ineligibility for a settlement, and immediately chartered the Ocean to remove the establishment, either to Port Dalrymple, on the north side of Van Diemen's land, or to the river Derwent, on the south coast of the same island, where a small party from Port Jackson was already established.
As the farther detention of the Calcutta, after the removal was finally concluded on, would greatly retard the principal object of her voyage, the conveying a cargo of ship timber to England, without any adequate advantage to the Colony, she quitted Port Philip on the 18th of December, leaving the Colonists, preparing to re-embark on
While the Calcutta remained at Port Philip, besides the necessary duties of the ship, the crew were actively employed in collecting such specimens of ship-timber as the place afforded; and, about one hundred and fifty pieces of compass-timber, chiefly honeysuckle, were procured[7].
During the period of uncertainty, between the sailing of the boat, and the return of advices from Port Jackson, the First Lieutenant of the Calcutta, with several other officers, and a party of convicts to carry provisons, proceeded by land to examine Western Port[8], and ascertain the correctness of the description given of it by,the first discoverers, particularly with respect to coal, in which it was said to abound. From the camp we proceeded across the peninsula to where the ridge of Arthur's Seat descends to the sea. This peninsula is formed entirely of sand, thrown up into roundhillocks, and covered with coarse grass the sheoak which are small and open. After passing the ridge of Arthur's Seat we proceeded in a direction due east, nearly parallel to the sea-shore, of which we sometimes came in sight, until we reached a point projecting into the sea, which we supposed to be Cape or Point Schank; in this space the land continues to rise, and forms in larger and steeper hills, separated by narrow glens, but the soil is still very sandy, and no water is to be found; even by digging in the hollows several feet deep. After passing Cape Schank, the country im- mediately assumes a quite different ap- pearance; the soil changes to a stiff clay; the she-oak gives place to the blue gum, and two strong runs of water fall into the sea immediately under the Cape. Here we halted for the night, and following, the example of the native, erected a hut, and made a fire within a few feet of its entrance. This point we supposed to be twenty-five miles distant from the camp. At day-light we again commenced our march, guided by a pocket-compass; and keeping at the distance of between three and five miles from the sea at noon reached Western Port, about two miles from its entrance. From Cape Schank the country is varied by hills and vallies, the soil of the former being a stiff clay, with very lofty gum-trees; and of the latter, a rich black mould several feet deep, except in a few spots where a black peaty earth was found. The grass in these vallies is extremely luxuriant; some of them are over-grown with under-wood, while others possess scarce a single shrub. In this track are several small runs of water, emptying themselves into the sea by deep ravines.
Our examination of Western Port was unavoidably confined to the space of a few miles on the western shore; this was principally owing to the man who carried the whole of our bread, having absconded soon after quitting the camp, and to our being deceived in the extent of the Port, as well as the distance to it; which we found much greater than we had any idea of.
We were provisioned only for four days, at short allowance; for trusting to our guns for an addition to our fare, we employed most of the party to carry water, being ignorant whether any was to be found in our route.
From the entrance of the Port for about twelve miles along the western shore, there is but one place of commodious landing for boats; the beach being either a black plate rock, or a flat sand running out a quarter of a mile; upon which a long and dangerous surf continually breaks. There are three good runs of water in this space, which falling from the hills, form pools at their base, and are absorbed by the soft sand of the beach. We found these pools covered with teal of a beautiful plumage, and, what was to us of much more importance, of a delicious flavour.
As our track to Western Port had never diverged, more than five miles from the sea, it was determined, on returning, to endeavour to penetrate through the country in a N.W. direction, which we supposed would bring us to Port Philip at about twenty miles distance from the camp. We accordingly set off at daylight of the third day, from our night's station which was about five miles from the entrance of Western Port, and had scarce walked a quarter of a mile when, we came to an immense forest of lofty gum-trees. The country here becomes very mountainous: in the vallies or rather chasms between the mountains, small runs of water trickle through an almost impenetrable jungle of prickly shrubs, bound together by creeping plants. After passing eight of these deep chasms in six miles, which was accomplished with infinite difficulty in four hours, we found the country grow still more impenetrable, vast fields of shrub as prickly as furze arresting our progress every moment. Several of our people who carried the water, being unable to bear the fatigue any longer, we were obliged to give up our intention; and after a short rest, we shaped our course to the S.W. in order to approach the sea, where the country becomes open and less hilly. In this direction we found the country well-watered, the soil very rich, and in many places meadows of from fifty to an hundred acres, covered with grass five feet high, and unincumbered with a single tree. At sun-set we reached the sea at Cape Schank, and, halting for the night, arrived at the camp in the afternoon of the next day.
Our search for coal, which we were given to understand abounded at Western Port, was fruitless; but our examination was too circumscribed and superficial to authorize any positive assertion respecting it.
The coast between the ridge of Arthur's Seat and Western Port is bound by rocks of black stone, which was found to burn to a strong lime. The projecting points of land are high, bluff, and perpendicular, presenting a barrier to the sea which breaks against them, even in the finest weather, with violence, denying shelter by anchorage, or safety by running on shore for the smallest boat.
Besides herds of kangaroos, four large wolves were seen at Western Port. Very beautiful bronze-winged pigeons with black and white cockatoos, and innumerable parrots, inhabit the woods. Though this excursion added but little to the knowledge of the country, it is hoped it will not be entirely devoid of utility. In those spots which appeared best adapted to the purpose, seeds from Rio Janeiro and the Cape were sown, viz. oranges, limes, melons, pumpkins, Indian corn, and several kinds of garden seeds.
But two huts were found in our track, and not a native was seen; indeed the kangaroo seems to reign undisturbed lord of the soil, a dominion which, by the evacuation of Port Philip, he is likely to retain for ages.
Several convicts absconded from the camp soon after their landing, led away by the most delusive ideas of reaching Port Jackson, or getting on board some whaler, which they ignorantly believed occasionally touched on this Coast; some of them were brought back by parties sent after them, and others returned voluntarily, when nearly famished with hunger. Two only of these unfortunate beings were never heard of after leaving the camp, one of these was George Lee, a character well known to several persons of respectability in England.
After the Calcutta quitted Port Philip, a, vessel was sent to examine Port Dalrymple; the accounts brought back not being so favourable as was hoped for, it was finally determined to remove the Colony to the river Darwent, which was partly accomplished before the Calcutta sailed from Port Jackson. The name of Hobart was given to the Settlement, and the most flattering accounts were received from the Lieutenant Governor, of the situation, soil, and climate. Speaking of the climate, he says, that it may be considered the Montpelier of New South Wales.
The remainder of the Calcutta's voyage was almost totally barren of incident, either to amuse or instruct. She sailed from Port Philip the 18th of December, and passing through Bass's Straits, without experiencing any difficulties, arrived at Port Jackson the 26th. Here she took in a cargo of ship-timber (about six hundred logs) and sailed again on the 17th March 1804; passed to the southward of New Zealand, which was seen on the 29th; doubled Cape Horn on the 27th April, and arrived at Rio de Janeiro the 22d May; thus accomplishing a voyage round the world, discharging and receiving a cargo, in eleven months.
In the long navigation between New Zealand and Cape Horn, scarce a single incident occurred either to interest the seaman, or the naturalist. Throughput this navigation, the wind seldom deviated to the northward of N.W. or to the southward of S.W. with strong gales, which enabled us to make an average of one hundred and eighty miles a-day for twenty-nine days.
The variety and numbers of austral oceanic birds, which followed our track, was very great; and it was remarked, that they were seen in greatest numbers during stormy weather. It is probable that the winds at those times disturbing the waters to their utmost depths, may bring blubbers and other substances, upon which these birds feed, to the surace in greater quantities-. In fine weather they probably retire to the rocks[9], where such food may then be most plentiful.
Among these birds we chiefly noticed the albatross, black shear-water, sooty petrell, pintado birds, Port Egmont hens, small grey gulls, and, mother Cary's chicken.
On the 3d April, in latitude 48½° S. and longitude 186½° E. at 9 P.M. a bright orange glow was observed in the heavens to the southward; it rose from the horizon to the altitude of thirty degrees, having the appearance of the western sky, when the sun in summer; illuminates it after setting. This appearance lasted about an hour, and gradually sunk into the surrounding obscurity.
The Calcutta passed between the islands of Diego Ramirez and the Hermits, and at about six miles distance from the former. The strength of the wind prevented our sounding here, but from the muddiness of the water we judged it could not be above thirty fathoms deep: here we found a very strong current setting to the S. E. Diego Ramirez, which is laid down in several charts as one island, on the contrary consists of two detached groups of rocky islets, bearing N. by W. and S. by E. from each other. The passage between the groups is about three miles wide, and (as I was informed by the master of a whaler) is clear of danger. Scarce any vegetation is found on them, the naked rock being every where visible. Cape Horn we passed at the distance of four leagues, and observed several patches of snow on its sides; the wind was at west, and the thermometer as high as forty-eight, with very pleasant clear weather. From the appearance of the Hermit's islands we conjectured that they must afford many good harbours. The day after rounding Cape Horn, we passed Staten Land, of which we had a complete view; from end to end, than which nothing could, appear more desolate and unfriendly.
Off the coast of Patagonia three land-birds lighted on board, and were caught; the body resembled that of the crow, its length eighteen inches, the bill one inch and a half, the feathers of the head forming a bunch over the forehead, the plumage & beautiful snowy white, the legs and claws black. When caught, they almost immediately became domesticated, and fed on meat. They lived about six weeks, and appeared to be killed by the excessive heat of the weather[10].
After passing Cape Horn, the sea was at times covered with luminous blubbers about nine inches long, which emitted a light equal to that of a wax candle; it was observed, that the appearance of these blubbers always foretold the approach of stormy weather.
At Rio de Janeiro we recruited our water, and sailed again on the 1st of June.
We now once more turned our thoughts towards the shores, which custom and reason bid us hail as the happiest of our globe. Blest isle! where liberty is the birth-right of man; where the laws are the protectors, not the oppressors, of freedom; where beauty is crowned by modesty, and love is refined by delicacy! And shall that freedom bow to the yoke of Gallic slavery? Shall those laws be changed for the arbitrary dictates of Gallic despotism? Shall that beauty be polluted by the unhallowed touch of ferocious invaders? and that love be degraded into the sensual appetite of brutes? No! the arms of Britons will be nerved with tenfold strength, for the protection of such inestimable blessings, and the insatiate foe will at last be convinced that
Britons never will be slaves
- ↑ Vide Addenda II.
- ↑ From this stone, when pulverized, the natives, I suppose, procure the red earth with which they paint their faces.
- ↑ Vide Addenda III.
- ↑ In viewing the manners of man in his most savage state, in which a cultivated mind sees only disgusting images of wretchedness, we yet cannot fail to notice that universal principle, which seems to act with equal force upon the refined courtier of Europe and the wandering savage of the desert. The Parisian beau cannot take greater pains in adjusting his hair, or perfuming himself self with the odours of the East, than the savage does in bedaubing his face with clays, or anointing his skin with the blubber of the whale. To carry, the proof yet farther, we find that savages who are unacquainted with the adventitious ornaments of dress, have recourse to various methods of altering the natural forms of the limbs or features, or to marking the body with scars, punctures, &c. which they deem highly ornamental. Among some tribes the head is flattened, among others it is rendered more convex, but the nose and ears are the chief objects of their personal vanity, and among all the savage tribes I have seen, they undergo some kind of distortion. As these operations ate performed in infancy, when the parts are flexible, and capable of taking any form, we are often led to conclude, that to be the natural configuration, which is only the effect of artificial distortion.
- ↑ Two attempts have been made to convey the vaccine matter to New South Wales, one by the Glatton, and the other, by the Calcutta, but both failed of success. Are we certain that any advantage would have accrued from the introduction of such a disorder into the colony? Hear what a celebrated writer says on this subject: "Distempers, local in their origin, become more formidable when transplanted, than in their native soil; the small-pox, so little feared in Europe, almost depopulated America, and the plague is much more inveterate when it invades Europe, than in its native East. This is scarcily accounted for; the human frame is prepared by custom and by climate for the admission of the native disease, which is not the case where it is transported." What opinion would we form of an attempt to introduce a new disease into England, merely to prevent the evils attending the possible introduction of the plague!
- ↑ I have since been informed, that canoes were found on the river at the head of the port.
- ↑ Vide Addenda, No IV.
- ↑ Western Port was discovered by Lieutenant Flinders, in 1799.
- ↑ The existence of many undiscovered islands, rocks, and shoals in the southern ocean, may be inferred from several circumstances. The patches of sea-weed met with, many hundred leagues from any known land is one of them, and the frequent temporary smoothness of the sea without any apparent cause is another. The Bounty Islands, in the latitude of 47° 32' S. and longitude 179° 10' E. were accidentally discovered by Captain Bligh; and an island was found in latitude 49° 19' S. and longitude 179° 20' E. by Captain Waterhouse, to which he gave the name of Pen-antipode. Neither of these islands were examined. Would it not be object worthy of the attention of the British government, to employ a vessel in traversing these seas during the summer months, in order to acquire a greater certainty on this head.
- ↑ These appear to be the birds described by Captain Cook.