Page:History of West Australia.djvu/303

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WEST AUSTRALIA.
251


observed what he considered to be the opposite shore; on proceeding to cross, the horses got into a heavy bog. The loads were removed, and the men had to carry them to the supposed shore-line, which, however, turned out to be an island in the huge lake. They returned to their starting point the following day, the men again having to carry the baggage knee deep in bog through the worst part. The horses, weakened by their struggling, were given a rest. Mr. Forrest, while seeking to take angles from a neighbouring summit called Yeadie found the local attraction so great that the prismatic compass was useless. From his vantage point he saw that Lake Barlee was more vast than he supposed. Its surface was studded with numerous islands. The horizon was cut by low ranges of hills in every direction.

Further eastwards, beyond country covered with spinifex and pointed gums, the explorers found and named Mount Alexander. Jemmy's descriptions proved so incorrect that on the 29th May the leader despaired of finding the bones of Leichardt. On 31st May about 100 natives were come upon. They were evidently holding a corroboree, and mixed with the dreadful noise of their hallooing and shouting was the barking of their dogs. Jemmy was stripped, and sent to interview them, but as soon as they saw him they rushed at him, evidently bent on killing him with their douacks. Luckily, one of the natives remembered having seen Jeremy years before at Mount Elain, and at his instance the attack was stopped. But for this fortunate recognition Forrest apprehended that the whole party might have lost their lives. An interview took place with one of them, who was guarded by eight men with spears and douacks in readiness. It was not a pleasant interview; the explorers were discourteously advised to go right away, and not to return for fear of being killed and eaten. It being dark, they only partly took this candid advice; they camped without water five miles away, keeping watch all night long. Next day, however, they returned to the place, and discovered that the tribe had scattered. There were unmistakable signs that the blacks had been tracking the explorers. Suddenly Mr. Monger observed two of them following up their trail not fifty yards away. Guns were got in readiness, but it was found that the two men were the same as were friendly as the previous night. These aboriginals promised to lead them to the bones of horses, which they said were two days' journey to the north-west. Though it was arranged to meet next morning the natives never came. Forrest steered in the direction they bad indicated, but found no bones. Some days were spent in exploring the country thereabouts and searching for trees which Leichardt might have marked. A conical hill was discovered on 8th June, and named Mount Holmes. Mount Ida was discovered to the southward on 15th June, and Mount Leonora to the eastward on the 20th. The explorers were now entered upon country since made famous by gold discoveries. Passing Mount Leonora on 23rd June, they proceeded east by north and reached a table hill where Forrest took a round of angles. He named this point Mount Malcolm, after his friend and companion Mr. M. Hamersley. Next day Mount Flora was named, whence was observed, E.N.E., a high range, for which the party made. The highest peak was ascended on 25th June, and named Mount Margaret. An extensive view of a dry salt lake and low trap ranges was obtained from this eminence. A table hill discovered on 1st July was named Mount Weld, and on 2nd July the furthest point traversed to the east was reached by the leader and Tommy Windich. The country was covered with spinifex and large white gums, and here and there were some rough sandstone cliffs. Samphire fiats, fringed with gum and other trees, lay northwards. No water was found in this locality, and after marking a tree with the letter "F," John Forrest turned homewards, and varied his course to inspect new country.

Water was soon obtained, and the site named Windich Brook in honour of Tommy. For forty-eight hours the horses had neither eaten nor drunk, and they remained by this pond some little time. From the western end of Lake Barlee, the explorers traversed a more northerly route than that of the outward journey, and passed through considerable barren country. Newcastle was seen on 4th August, and Perth on 6th August. The expedition had been absent 113 days and travelled by computation, over 2,000 miles. In his report, Mr. Forrest, while stating that the country traversed was worthless for pastoral or agricultural purposes, believed that it was sufficiently mineralised to deserve a thorough examination by experienced geologists. A reward was tendered by the Government to each member of the expedition. The fate of Leichardt remained as mysterious as before.

Not long after his return home from this search, John Forrest, who had so successfully accomplished his first effort in Australian exploration, was chosen by Governor Weld to proceed on another and more dangerous journey. Mr. Von Mueller now suggested that Forrest be placed in charge of an expedition which should examine the country between the upper waters of the Murchison River and the Gulf of Carpentaria, but as sufficient funds were not immediately forthcoming the project was, for the time, set aside. Governor Weld was, however, anxious to obtain more information concerning the southern coast between Albany and Adelaide, as since the trying and tragical journey of John Eyre no one had traversed these regions. In 1860 Major Warburton pushed some eighty-five miles beyond the head of the Great Australian Bight from South Australian settlement. He found holes dug by the indomitable Eyre when in quest of water, but characterised the country as exceedingly dreary, and destitute of food and water. Delisser also just entered the colony from the South Australian border in 1865. The York Agricultural Society previously proposed that the local Government should equip a party to thoroughly explore the intervening country, but it was not until 1870 that this was done. Governor Weld then took the matter in hand, and the necessary funds were voted.

From previous experience the journey was known to be begirt with dangers, but, as the official instructions stated, the Governor confided in the "experience, ability, and discretion" of Mr. Forrest to overcome them. The schooner Adur was engaged to convey provisions to different points to be touched on, such as Esperance Bay, Israelite Bay (over 120 miles eastward), and Eucla. Thenceforward the Adur could be of no use, owing to there being no safe anchorage in the Bight. The party included Alexander Forrest, a surveyor, and brother of the leader; H. McLarty, a police constable; W. Osborne, a farrier and shoeing smith; Tommy Windich, the aboriginal member of the previous expedition, and a second native named Billy Noongale. On the afternoon of Wednesday, the 30th March, 1870, these men left Perth with fifteen horses. Governor Weld accompanied them for about three miles along the Albany Road. John Forrest and his companions were not discouraged by the grim narrative of terrible privations endured by Eyre on the same journey. The leaders were fully aware of the immense and dispiriting obstacles to be faced. They wound through the settled districts, past Kojonup, Etticup, Martinup, Nigalup, and Koorarkup, in the last of which their inconvenience for the want of water began. The Fitzgerald River was reached on 14th April, the Phillips River on 16th, and on the 17th Forrest obtained a view the of the sea from a steep summit of Eyre's Range—Annie's Peak.