Page:History of West Australia.djvu/69

From Wikisource
Jump to navigation Jump to search
This page has been validated.
WEST AUSTRALIA.
51


considerable stream running east, evidently a branch of a neighbouring river. Large lagoons were passed, and a smaller stream crossed within the next few miles, the former of which, Mokare said, were popular resorts of natives, who, in dry seasons, congregated there when smaller sheets of water elsewhere failed. The soil, which had hitherto been poor, began to improve as they went further on, and the banksia trees gave way to others more ambitious. The rich alluvial soil compared "with the best on the banks of the celebrated Swan," although it had no great breadth. On the "gently swelling, lightly wooded adjacent hills" were fine sheep walks. Going N.W. by W. they "passed through a country beautifully diversified by moderately elevated hills and fertile verdant valleys, adorned and enriched by streams of the purest water." After ascending a summit and obtaining a panoramic view of the surroundings, whence they saw the peaks of Porrongor-up and Morril-up, they resumed the original course, and passed over a tract of some eight miles of "very barren country." From there they went more northward, and entered "a rich and romantic country," where were good cow pastures. They camped the night among these scenes, and in the morning the kangaroos skipped so constantly in the distance in the open forest that the men were given a half-holiday to hunt them, while the leaders examined the country to the east and west. On both sides the land continued good. Upon assembling, about noon, all were disappointed at no kangaroos having been caught. The marsupials were too wary to allow the strangers approach close to them, while they were too fleet for the dogs attached to the expedition.

A native came upon them while they were making their repast in these beautiful wilds, who joined them in their meal with the utmost confidence. He was well made, and showed the effects of good living in so productive a country. Mokare knew the new arrival, and both sought to alter the intentions of Dr. Wilson to proceed west, vociferatlng that to the eastward the best lands lay, where their tribe would be glad to receive them. But their united eloquence was of no avail, and the native bushman had to go his way alone, and was soon hidden by the great trees which adorned his birthplace.

Further north good, open forest-land was met, and about sunset a valley almost destitute of trees was reached. Of this Dr. Wilson writes:—"So much has been said of the scenery in New South Wales resembling noble English domains, that the comparison is rather trite. Imagine a rich valley of considerable width, extending east and west as far as the eye can survey, bounded on the south and north by a succession of undulating and moderately elevated hills, thinly but sufficiently ornamented with trees of gigantic form, and you may have some conception of the beauty of the spot." There, near a pool of water, they bivouacked that night, and Mokare having shot a kangaroo all were in high glee, and enjoyed to the full their lovely surroundings. Up to this point they had passed country adapted either for pastoral or agricultural purposes, and almost regretted the necessity of at once turning west. Not far in this direction they observed a circular basin of water about half a mile in diameter, upon whose shining surface were innumerable black swans, ducks, teal, and other aquatic birds. Circling the lake, to the width of about fifty yards, was a belt of tall reeds, at the inner margin of which the water was about six feet deep. This lake, set in a background of hills, they named Loch Katrine.

Still further westward they soon left the good land behind and travelled some miles over barren scrub, "as miserable and useless as any to be found in New South Wales." So great was the transformation that they early complained of being "disheartened and tired" by a "fatiguing journey." When a more fertile spot was reached they halted and camped. Their way next day lay over some good land, alternating with indifferent, and a fine stream running south was encountered. which was named the Kent, after their companion. Then, N.N.W., they got among the mountains, and rested the night by a stream, "in the midst of a wide and picturesque glen". Thence they made S.S.W., and named a stream of some magnitude the Macquoid, in compliment to the High Sheriff of New South Wales. Going over "hills and dales," they were caught while making a detour of a large swamp by a thunderstorm, and "as at this time the thunder was rolling heavily along, the peals rendered more terrific and sublime by the echoing hills, the rain pouring down in torrents, and some of the explorers—some of whom wished themselves elsewhere—up to the middle in water," they named that swamp the Dismal Swamp. South of this, barren ironstone and quartz country, interrupted by strips of good land, was proceeded through. Immediately beyond, "the transitions from good to bad land, and vice versa, were frequent and sudden;" and perceiving to the east by south a high, isolated, conical hill, they directed their steps to it. A valley of great extent, containing a rich red loam was crossed, and at one p.m. they "halted in a deep hollow glen, through the bottom of which rushed with velocity an impetuous mountain torrent" at the base of the mountain. After resting, Dr. Wilson, Mr. Kent, and Mokare made the ascent, and reached its highest summit at six, where the view amply repaid their fatigue. Dr. Wilson writes, "I have seen many far-famed views in the four ancient divisions of the globe, and have no hesitation in saying, that this of the fifth, if it did not surpass, fell but little short of any of them. The highest peak is about 30 yards square, perfectly level, paved with minute particles of quartz, and at each angle is an immense block of granite. In compliment to the officers of the 39th Regiment this was named Mount Lindesay." On looking out over the country, "round to the southward it resembles the ocean convulsed in a storm; or a better idea may be formed of its appearance by imagining segments of circles increasing in height as they increase in diameter." While looking down, Dr. Wilson named a high peaked hill, N.W. by W., Mount Roe, in honour of the Surveyor-General; a double-peaked hill, in nearly the same direction, Mount Mitchell; and another peak, W. by N., Mount Franklin.

Next morning, while exploring the base, streams were observed emerging from Mount Lindesay, and one of some magnitude, running directly south, was denominated the Denmark River, after a physician of the fleet. The banks of this river were rich, and the surrounding hills contained very fine soil, and the blue gum timber Dr. Wilson considered the finest he ever saw. With some regret, he and his party left this delightful scenery, and proceeded south-east, over hilly country, with land "sometimes good, sometimes indifferent, and sometimes very barren." The valleys were generally of good quality. By rapid marching they soon reached the coast, where they met with and named the Hay River, after Mr. Hay, the Under Secretary of State. Another river crossed was named the Heeman, and a high, conical hill, observed some distance away, received its name—Mount Hallowell—after an admiral of that time. Mount Shadforth (in compliment to the Lieutenant-Colonel of the 57th Regiment) was named, and the party returned to King George's Sound along the coast.

Dr. Wilson on this occasion went among some of the finest