SPECIAL AND CUSTOM MEASUREMENTS.
To aid in better understanding the measurements necessary for Special and Custom work, an illustration is given on this page showing a Laced-in-Front corset of extreme length.
The Waist Line, from which all longitudinal measurements are taken, is plainly marked. The lines showing under bust, center. bust, over bust, boning, soft extension, and groin are also clearly marked. Compare carefully with Diagram "A."
The Under Bust portion (see line 6-8, Diagram "A"). extends from the waist line to that portion on the body where the bust begins to swell. This measurement is considered only in Special or Custom work. The distance necessarily varies, being greater or less on different figures.
Breathing Space is room allowed in a corset starting at waist line and extending to bust to give plenty of room through diaphragm.
The Center Bust, (see line 6-1, Diagram "A"), is the distance from waist line to the top of corsets with the exception of corsets carrying a bust extension.
The Over Bust Extension is that portion of the corset above the cent er bust section. In some cases the over bust is broken. In others it is a cup bust, as in some of the corset waists. The length of this over bust portion varies from 2 to 4 inches. Over Bust measurement, however, must be from the waist line to top of corset. Note difference between Over Bust Extension and Over Bust Measurement.
The line marked Boning on the Diagram indicates the point at which the boning generally stops. The boning is shorter in the groin than over the hip or in the back. In Spirella Corsets the Spirella Stays, or boning, vary in length. In corsets not carrying what is known as soft extension, the boning at the groin does not come to the bottom of the corset, the boning over the groin being a little· shorter than the length of the front clasp below the waist line (from ½ to 1½ inches).
The Groin is the bottom of the corset about midway between front clasp and hip.
The Soft Extension is that portion of the corset skirt below the front clasp which is without boning, This soft extension varies from 2 inches to any length desired and can be specialized by making longer or shorter when desired. It usually carries hook and eye fastening.
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