Page:Incidents of travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan.djvu/170

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TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA.



CHAPTER VIII.

SEPARATION—AN ADVENTURE—COPAN RIVER—DON CLEMENTINO—A WEDDING—A SUPPER—A WEEDING BALL—BUYING A MULE—THE SIERRA—VIEW FROM THE TOP—ESQUIPULAS—THE CURA—HOSPITABLE RECEPTION—CHURCH OF ESQUIPULAS—RESPONSIBILITY OF THE CURA—MOUNTAIN OF QUEZALTEPEQUE—A NARROW ESCAPE—SAN JACINTO—RECEPTION BY THE PADRE—A VILLAGE FÊTE—AN AMBUSCADE—MOTAGUA RIVER—VILLAGE OF SANTA ROSALIA—A DEATH SCENE.

Having decided that, under the circumstances, it was best to separate, we lost no time in acting upon the conclusion. I had difficulty in coming to a right understanding with my muleteer, but at length a treaty was established. The mules were loaded, and at two o'clock I mounted. Mr. C. accompanied me to the edge of the woods, where I bade him farewell, and left him to difficulties worse than we had apprehended. I passed through the village, crossed the river, and, leaving the muleteer on the bank, rode to the hacienda of Don Gregorio; but I was deprived of the satisfaction which I had promised myself at parting, of pouring upon him my indignation and contempt, by the consideration that Mr. Catherwood was still within the reach of his influence; and even now my hand is stayed by the reflection that when Mr. C., in great distress, robbed by his servant, and broken down by fever, took refuge in his house, the don received him as kindly as his bearish nature would permit. My only comfort was in making the lordly churl render an account of sixpences and shillings for eggs, milk, meat, &c., to the amount of two dollars, which I put into his hands. I afterwards learned that I had elevated myself very much in his estimation, and in that of the neighbourhood generally, by my handsome conduct in not going off without paying.[1]

My good understanding with the muleteer was of short duration. At parting, Mr. C. and I had divided our stock of plates, knives and forks, spoons, &c., and Augustin had put my share in the basket which had carried the whole, and these, being loose, made such a clattering, that it frightened the mule. The beast ran away, setting us all off together with a crashing noise, till she threw herself among the

  1. On my second visit, finding the rancho of Don Miguel deserted, I rode to Don Gregorio's. The don had in the meantime been to Esquipulas, and learned our character from the cura; and it is due to him to say, that he received me kindly, and made many inquiries after Mr. Stephens. The rest of the family were as cordial as before.—F. C.