After proceeding about a mile and a half through the town and suburbs, we entered into some dark lanes so overshadowed with luxuriant foliage, that they hardly admitted of two persons riding a-breast: a mile farther on, just at the base of the Water Mountain, we came to a large building much shattered by the earthquakes, but exhibiting the remains of a palace, which indeed it formerly had been: it commanded a fine panoramic view of the city, and might be well worth repairing, if any of the "Incorrigibles" were hardy enough to undertake it. We passed a rancheria, or small farm, where they were preparing vaynilla, the substance which gives that fine flavour peculiar to Spanish chocolate: the pods of this plant, which are about the size of a child's finger, after having been exposed to the sun, and rubbed over with oil, were being made up into small parcels, covered over with plantain leaves. The plant itself resembles the vine, and climbs to the top of the highest trees: the flowers are
