narrowing the gap which now separates the products of the two countries, appear to the writer to he chiefly as follows: (1) The methods adopted in the French sardine fishery result in the landing of the fish in excellent condition. This is the main object and is never lost sight of. The fish are caught singly in a delicate mesh, removed by hand, carefully kept on board the boats so as to avoid crowding and mashing, counted by hand into small baskets, taken to the factories within a few hours after being caught, and promptly put through the preserving process, so that ordinarily the deterioration which ensues is not worthy of mention. (2) In France the sardines caught in the early part of the season are not canned, because they are not in the best condition. It is only after the fish have become fat that they are considered suitable for canning. The fattening depends on an abundance of proper food, and along with it is an improvement in the flavor and general quality of the flesh.
While the young sea herring is an excellent fish, it may be admitted that even when at its best its meat is inferior to that of the fq,t young pilchard in richness. The latter has a peculiar flavor which, to a considerable degree, is preserved in canning and which probably can not be successfully imitated in the sea herring. However, the difference in flavor between the French and the American sardines on which many persons lay much stress appears to the writer to be of only secondary importance. The taste for French sardines has been acquired and perpetuated in the United States because of the long-continued unsatisfactory quality of American sardines. The herring is naturally no less wholesome than the pilchard. If it is caught for canning only when in prime condition, and if, in the form of canned sardines, it is placed on the markets with the minimum amount of deterioration and with such adjuvants in the way of oil, spices, etc., as may be suitable, it should and will receive ample recognition at home, and meet with a constantly increasing demand at prices that are now hardly dreamed of.
The history of a few canneries on our east coast during recent years has shown that a very marked improvement in the quality of American sardines is entirely practicable, and, furthermore, is highly appreciated by consumers, as evidenced by the much higher prices they are willing to pay and the steady demand beyond the capacity of the factories. With regard to the sardines of the Pacific coast of the United States, there is no reason why they should not, when properly canned, prove equal to the French fish in every respect. The high reputation which has been acquired by the comparatively small quantities packed in California during the past five or six years, and the excellent prices which they have commanded, argue well for the success of an extensive business.
