Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/23

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• 3 Pillow Cases.
• 1 Hair Mattress 5ft. 6in. by 1ft 9.in
• 3 Blankets 6ft 6 by 4 ft 6
• 1 Counterpane 6ft 6 by 4 ft 6„
• 3 pair Sheets. 6ft 6 by 4 ft 6„
• 4 Uniform Jackets.
• 1 Uniform„ Trousers
• 1 Uniform„ Waistcoat
• 1 Uniform„ Cap, peak ¹⁄₂ turn down.
• 2 Working Uniform Suits (one of thick flannel, one of pilot cloth).
• 1 Uniform Working Cap, peak ¹⁄₂ turn down.
• 4 White Flannel Trousers, well shrunk
• 6 Pairs drawers, Merino
• 3 White Flannel Shirts (with collar to turn down)
• 3 Lambswool Undervests
• 12 White Shirts
• 12 Collars
• 12 pairs Merino Socks.
• 2 White Waistcoats.
• 12 Towels.
• 6 Night Shirts.
• 7 Merino Vests.
• 2 Black Silk Neckties (made up)
• 2 pair Braces
• 3 pair Strong laced Boots. with thick soles.
• 1 Clothes Brush.
• 1 Sponge
• 1 Carpet Bag.
• 1 Clothes Bag.
• 12 Pocket Handkerchiefs.
• 1 pair elastic-side Oxford Shoes, with strong soles.
• 1 Brush and Comb.
• 1 Tooth Brush.
• 1 Nail Brush. 1 Rug (travelling).

Pea Jackets are not to be supplied, as the thick working Jacket can be worn over the Uniform Jacket if necessary.

Clothing to be distinctly marked with the cadet's name in full.

Trousers to be made without pockets, and only one pocket on the left breast of the Jackets of the two Uniform Working Suits.

THE MORNING COAT
Dia. 28. Fig 16.

We now come to a style of garment suitable for the youth budding into manhood, and as it is a garment of special importance from the number worn, not only by youth but by men of all sizes; and as the principles here laid down are equally applicable to the old as to the young, we will go through the system once more, and may be we shall make points clear which are perhaps a little indefinite in the previous one. It also varies somewhat in minor details of working, so that the space devoted to it will not be lost, Commence at the back and draw line 0 19 and mark off the following points 0 to 3+¹⁄₂ to taste it merely being a. guide to fix the location of the shoulder seam and which will have no effect on the fit, as any variation in this to meet the whims of a customer or the freaks of fashion will be met, when applying the over shoulder measure. 0 to 9 is the depth of scye as taken on figure, 0 to 17 is the natural waist length, 0 to 19 the fashion waist, and on to 34 the full length; if the customer is fairly hollow at the waist, come in at 17. ³⁄₄ to 1 inch, and draw the back seam into it; draw line at right angles to point 0, 3+¹⁄₂,9, 17; from 0 to 3 is ¹⁄₆ neck, come up from this point ³⁄₄, and shape back neck. If the neck has not been taken, the half waist will do as well. From 3+¹⁄₂ to 7+¹⁄₄ is the across back measure, as taken, plus seems, which usually equals one-fifth of the breast (a too wide back is specially to be avoided). Now measure forward from point 9, the half breast measure, and wherever allowance is deemed advisable for ease, &c. 2+¹⁄₄ inches is added in the present case, that being a medium quantity. Measure back from 20+¹⁄₄ to 12+¹⁄₄ the across chest measure as taken on the customer; now deduct the width of back neck from the front shoulder length, and placing the tape at point 12+¹⁄₄, sweep by it to find the neck point; now add 1 inch to the front shoulder length, and sweep again by this increased length from point 20+¹⁄₄, and wherever these arcs intersect each other is the location of the neck point; next measure up from point 9 on the back towards the shoulder seam, and see what that is, and deduct it from the over shoulder measure. Place the remainder on point 12+¹⁄₄, put the finger on a point 2 inches up as at *, and make its pivot, then sweep to find the shoulder 1 as at 17. We have now the scye at all points no that it can be easily reproduced, the only points requiring special attention being to make it well hollow at * and keep it well up at sidebody. The shoulder seam of forepart may now be drawn. care being used to make it well round: the style shown on these diagrams; is very good, and will produce a nice clean fitting shoulder. Make the width of back scye about one-ninth breast, and draw the sideseam by drawing a line from this point to 17 and hollowing it ³⁄₄ of an inch on line 9: make the Width of back at 17, also one-ninth breast, and shape this seam by point so obtained forming it into it graceful curve. Special attention should be paid to this seam as being so prominently seen in the garment, any defect in it would greatly detract from the grace and harmony of the garment. We have found it is always the better plan to avoid