Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/30

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TO THE CUTTING OF MILITARY GARMENTS
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16 natural waist, 19½ full length, and come in from 16, 1 inch, and draw line for centre of back, come up 1 inch from the nape of neck and mark across 16 neck plus ¼ inch, square lines at right angles to the various points, mark off width of back, plus 1 seam; and from this point square up 16 chest plus 36 to 1 inch, curve out for back scye and shape shoulder from from points so obtained, make the width of back 1¼ to 1½ inches at waist draw line from top of side seam to point 16, and round the side seam 2 inches, as illustrated, measure across from 9, ½ of chest, to 12 ⅔ breast to 20½ chest measure plus 2½ inches. Sweep for neck point from 12, by the front shoulder measure less width of back neck, and by point 20½ by adding 1 inch more than the previous quantity, where these two segments intersect each other locates the neck point.

Mark out from this point 16 neck, mark down 16 neck plus ½ inch, find slope of the shoulder by using point 12 as, a pivot, and sweeping by the over shoulder measure less distance from 8¼, to shoulder seam of back, make width of front shoulder ¼ inch less than back, shape scye as shown and complete the upper portion of the garment. From the waist take out 1½ inches between the side-body and forepart, and measure up waist to measure plus about 1 inch, and curve over the hips sharply;: a good plan is to measure in from the side seam of forepart, 1½ inches and

down 1½ inches, the point in front should be about 4 inches below waist line.