The Boy Travellers in Australasia/Contents

by Thomas Wallace Knox

CONTENTS.

---

CHAPTER I.

From San Francisco to Honolulu.—Sights on the Pacific Ocean.—A Portuguese Man-of-war.—Nearing the Sandwich Islands.—The Molokai Channel.—Surf-beaten Shores of Oahu.—Arrival at Honolulu.—A Picturesque Port.—Discovery and History of the Sandwich Islands.—Captain Cook: his Tragic Death.—How the People have been Civilized.—Work of the Missionaries.—Schools and Churches.—Present Condition of the Population.—Old Customs.—Sights and Scenes in Honolulu.—Taro and Poi.—A Native Dinner.—The Costumes of the Islanders.—Peculiarities of the Climate.—The Hula-hula and other Dances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Page 1

CHAPTER II.

In and around Honolulu.—Public Buildings.—The Theatre.—Road to the Pali.—A Magnificent View.—Villas near the City.—Girls on Horseback.—Taro-fields.—The Water Supply.—Mountain-pass.—Hawaiian Cow-boys.—Hilo and the Voyage thither.—Apocryphal Stories about the Rain.—Surf-swimming.—The Great Volcano of Kilauea.—Over the Lava-fields.—Difficult Roads.—The Volcano House.—A Disturbed Night.—Burning Lakes.—Sight-seeing under Difficulties.—Terrifying Scenes.—Kilauea and Mauna Loa.—The Greatest Volcano in the World.—Historic Eruptions.—Crater of Haleakala.—Sugar Culture in Hawaii: its Extent and Increase.—Other Industries.—Returning by Schooner to Honolulu.—Leper Island of Molokai.—A Day among the Lepers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24

CHAPTER III.

Sudden Change of Plans.—The Yacht "Pera."—Departure from Honolulu.—Voyage to the Marquesas Islands.—Nookaheeva Bay.—Historical Account of the Marquesas.—What our Friends Saw there.—Tattooing and how it is Performed.—The Daughter of a Chief.—Natives and their Peculiarities.—Cotton and other Plantations.—Physical Features of the Islands.—Visiting a Plantation and a Native Village.—Missionaries and their Work.—The Tabu.—Curious Customs.—Pitcairn Island and the Mutineers of the "Bounty."—Wonders of Easter Island.—Gigantic Monuments of an Unknown Race . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47

CHAPTER IV.

From the Marquesas to the Society Islands.—The Great Barrier Reef.—The Coral Insect and his Work.—Atolls and their Peculiarities.—Origin of the Polynesian People.—Arrival at Papeiti.—On Shore in Tahiti.—A Brief History of the Islands.—Work of the Missionaries.—The French Occupation.—Victims for Sacrifice.—Old-time Customs.—Products of the Society Islands.—Beche-de-mer Fishing.—Visit to the Reef.—Curious Things seen there.—Adventures with Sharks, Stingarees, and other Monsters.—Gigantic Clams.—Visiting the Market.—Eating Live Fishes.—A Native Feast.—Excursion to Point Venus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

74

CHAPTER V.

From the Society to the Samoan Islands.—Before the Trade-winds.—Notes about the Missionaries.—Opposition of Traders to Missionaries.—How Polynesia was Christianized.—The Work of the Missions.—Rev. John Williams.—Romantic Story of the Hertey Group.—The London Missionary Society.—The Wesleyan and other Missions.—Death of Mr. Williams.—Sandal-wood Traders.—Polynesian Slavery.—Labor-vessels and the Labor-trade.—How Natives were Kidnapped.—"The Missionary Trick."—The Mutiny on the "Carl."—Capture of the "Daphne."—How Labor is Obtained at Present . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

99

CHAPTER VI.

The Samoan Islands.—Apia.—Its Position and Peculiarities.—Beach-combers.—History and Adventures of some of them.—Charley Savage.—Samoan Politics.—Attempt to Poison Missionaries.—French Convent and Schools.—Commerce with Samoa.—Visiting a Native Village.—Games of the Young People.—Youths Throwing Spears.—Mission College at Malua.—How the Students Live.—Pango-Pango.—Admiral Wilkes's Description.—Attending a Samoan Picnic.—Differences of Taste.—Massacre Bay.—La Pérouse.—How his Fate was Discovered.—The Sword-hilt at Tucopia.—Loss of the "Boussole" and "Astrolabe."—Vanikoro Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

122

CHAPTER VII.

The Feejee Islands: their Extent and Population.—Terrible Fatality of the Measles.—Rotumah and its People.—Kandavu and Suva.—Viti Levu.—Sights of the Capital.—Productions and Commerce of Feejee.—Growth of the Sugar Trade.—The Labor Question.—Observations among the Natives.—Feejeean Hair-dressing.—Native Peculiarities.—Cannibalism: its Extent and Suppression.—How the Chiefs were Supplied.—A whole Tribe of People Eaten.—Levuka.—Interviews with Merchants and Planters.—The Bololo Festival.—Ancient Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

147

CHAPTER VIII.

Attending a Native Church.—A Feejeean Preacher.—Dinner with a Feejeean Family.—The Seasons in Feejee.—A Tropical Shower.—A Hurricane.—A Planter's Adventures.—Scenes of Devastation.—The Climate of the Feejee Islands.—Wrecked on a Reef.—Escaping from the Jaws of Cannibals.—A Walking Art Gallery.—A Tattooed White Man.—Returning to Suva.—The Friendly, or Tonga, Islands.—Tongataboo.—The King of the Tongas: how he Lives.—A Remarkable Cavern and a Love Story about it.—From Feejee to New Zealand.—Hauraki Gulf.—Auckland.—A Fine Seaport and its Commerce.—How New Zealand was Colonized.—The Maoris.—Curious Facts about a Curious People.—Missionaries in New Zealand.—How the Maoris Make War . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

173

CHAPTER IX.

The Suburbs of Auckland.—Extinct Volcanoes.—Maori Fortifications.—A Kauri Forest.—Kauri Lumber and Gum.—How the Gum is Formed and Found.—Trees of New Zealand and their Value.—Ferns and their Variety.—A Pakeha Maori: his Reminiscences.—Curious Native Customs.—Buying Heads.—Sale of a Living Man's Head.—The Law of Muru.—New Zealand Birds.—The Gigantic Moa, or Dinornis.—Native Weddings.—Kawau Island.—Shark-fishing.—Oysters.—Visiting the Thames Gold-fields.—Sights and Scenes.—Gold-mining in New Zealand.—Population of the Colony.—Encouragement to Immigration.—Journey to the Hot Lakes.—Climate of New Zealand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

198

CHAPTER X.

The Hot Lake District: its Extent and Peculiarities.—Medicinal Springs.—Analysis of the Waters.—Fred's Narrow Escape.—Scalded to Death in a Hot Pool.—Lake Rotomahana. —The White Terraces: how they are Formed.—The Pink Terraces.—Boiling Lakes.—Nature's Bath-tubs.—Petrified Birds.—A Tabooed Mountain.—The Tabu on Ducks.—Native Demoralization.—Wairoa.—Destruction of the Terraces.—Terrible Eruption, with Loss of Life.—A Village thrown into a Lake.—Tauranga and the Gate Pah.—Maori Fortifications.—Short History of the Maori War: its Causes and Results.—From Tauranga to Napier.—A Pastoral Country.—Attractions of Napier.—Overland to Wellington.—Farming and Herding Scenes.—A Curious Article of Commerce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

222

CHAPTER XI.

Advantages of Wellington as the Capital.—Its Industries and Prosperity.—A City of Earthquakes.—Its Public Buildings.—The Colonial Government: how the Colony is Ruled.—The Colonial Parliament.—Maoris as Office-holders.—A Walk in the Botanical Gardens.—Division of the Islands into Counties and Districts.—No Connection between Church and State.—Relative Strength of Religious Bodies.—Educational Facilities.—The Colonial Debt: its Enormous Figures.—Overland to New Plymouth.—Along the Sea-shore.—Making Iron from Sea-sand.—Riding through the Bush.—Nelson and Picton.—The Wairau Massacre.—To Port Lyttelton and Christchurch.—An English Model Colony.—The Canterbury District.—The "Servant-girl" Question . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

246

CHAPTER XII.

Characteristics of the Canterbury District.—Visit to a Sheep-station.—How the Sheep-business is Conducted.—The Agricultural College.—Irrigation in New Zealand.—Sheep lost in Snow-storms.—The Sheep-raiser's Enemies.—Destruction caused by Parrots.—The Rabbit Pest.—How Rabbits are Exterminated.—Visit to a Wheat-farm.—Wheat Statistics.—Improved Machinery.—The Sparrow Pest.—Troublesome Exotics.—Water-cress, Daisies, and Sweetbrier.—An Industrial School.—Mount Cook: First Ascent.—Perilous Climbing.—Glaciers and Lakes.—The Southern Alps.—Dunedin.—Otago Goldfields.—Invercargill.—Lake Wakatipu.—Mining at Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

268

CHAPTER XIII.

From New Zealand to Australia.—Arrival at Sydney.—How the City was Founded.—Its Appearance To-day.—The Principal Streets, Parks, and Suburbs.—Public Buildings.—Shooting Sydney Ducks.—The Transportation System.—How Australia was Colonized.—Life and Treatment of Convicts in Australia.—The End of Transportation.—Popular Errors of Involuntary Emigrants.—The Paper Compass.—Ticket-of-leave Men.—Emancipists and their Status.—Sydney Harbor.—Steam Lines to all Parts of the World.—Circular Quay.—Dry-docks.—Excursions to Paramatta and Botany Bay.—Hospitalities of Sydney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

293

CHAPTER XIV.

From Sydney to Brisbane.—Political Divisions of Australia.—Order in which the Colonies were Founded.—Explorations and their Extent.—Doctor Bass and Captain Flinders.—Absence of Water in the Interior of Australia.—A Country of Strange Characteristics.—Nature's Reverses.—How the Colonies are Governed.—Religion and Education.—Jealousy of the Colonies towards each other.—Newcastle and its Coal.—Railway Travelling in New South Wales.—Tenterfield and Stanthorpe.—Cobb's Coaches.—Australian Scenery.—The Eucalyptus, or Gum-tree, the tallest Trees in the World.—Silver Stems and Mallee Scrub.—Brisbane.—Relics of the Convict System.—Queen Street and the Botanical Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

317

CHAPTER XV.

Leaving Brisbane.—The Regions around the City.—Queensland Scrub and Forest Land.—Fruits and Garden Produce.—Troubles of the early Settlers.—Ipswich and its Coal-mines.—Wine-making in Australia.—Character of Australian Wines.—The Labor Question.—Polynesian and Chinese Laborers.—Population of Queensland.—Natives and Aborigines.—Peculiarities of the Black Race.—Cattle Trackers and their Abilities.—How the Aboriginals Live: their Homes, Weapons, and Mode of Life.—Australian Myths and Superstitions.—Curious Theories of Resurrection.—Smoke and Fire Signals.—How a Wandering White Man saved his Life.—Religious Ideas.—How the Eel made the Frog Laugh.—The Bun-yip and his Wonderful Attributes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

338

CHAPTER XVI.

Riding through the Bush.—Australian Hospitality.—Arrival at the Station.—The Buildings and their Surroundings.—A Snake in Fred's Bed.—Snakes in Australia.—Underwood's Remedy for Snake-bites, and what came of it.—Centipedes and Scorpions.—A Venomous Spider.—Nocturnal Noises at a Cattle-station.—Horses and their Traits.—Buck-jumping and Rough-riding.—How a "New Chum" catches a Horse.—Endurance of Horses.—Among the Herds of Cattle.—Ride to a Cattle-camp.—Daily Life of the Stockmen.—Caste in Australia.—Squatters and Free Selectors.—Horrible Accidents in the Bush.—A Man Eaten Alive by Ants.—Burned to Death under a Fallen Tree.—Chasing an Emu.—Rousing a Flock of Wild Turkeys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

359

CHAPTER XVII.

Cattle and Sheep Raising in Queensland.—Grass that Kills Sheep.—Profits of Raising Cattle.—Relative Advantages of the two Enterprises.—Increase of Flocks and Herds.—Statistics.—Live-stock in Queensland.—Visiting a Sheep-station.—Duties of a Good Shepherd.—Insane Tendencies of Shepherds.—Monotony op their Lives.—Disagreeable Work for Novices.—Sheep-shearing, and how it is Performed.—Packing and Shipping Wool.—Amusing Story of a Stolen Horse.—The Miner who Hid his Gold in a Horse-collar.—Bush-rangers and their Performances.—"Sticking up."—"Oliver, the Terror of the North."—Held by a Wooden Leg.—Trick of a Dishonest Genius.—Pearl-fishing in Australian Waters: how the Business is Conducted.—Alligators.—The "Cardwell Pet."—Sundowners. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

382

CHAPTER XVIII.

The Plague of Flies in Australia.—Other Creeping and Flying Things.—Laughing-jackasses, Bower-birds, Lyrebirds, Parrots, etc.—Tricks of the Lyre-bird.—Origin of the Bower-bird's Name.—Black Swans and Wild-ducks.—Snipe, Quail, and other Birds.—Australian Rivers and their Peculiarities.—Return to the Coast.—Gympie and the Gold-mines of Queensland.—An Australian Gold Rush.—Down the Coast to Sydney.—The Great Barrier Reef: its extent and Peculiarities.—Sport in Northern Queensland.—Going Up-country in New South Wales.—A Kangaroo Hunt.—Difference between a Hunt and a Drive.—Australian Marsupials.—Shooting Wild Horses.—Killing an "Old Man" Kangaroo.—Dingoes.—Stories of Kangaroo Hunts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

407

CHAPTER XIX.

A Native Encampment and a Corroboree.—Riding Across-country.—Among the Blacks.—Native Dances.—A Weird Scene.—Aboriginal Music.—Stories about Corroborees.—Curious Customs.—How the Black Men obtain their Wives.—Testing the Stoicism of Youths.—An Alarm at Night.—Return to Sydney.—A Brickfielder.—Hot Winds from the Desert.—How a Picnic was Broken up.—Over the Blue Mountains.—Railways in New South Wales.—Salubrity of the Mountain Climate.—Goulburn.—Theatrical Gossip.—First Theatre in Australia.—A Convict's Prologue.—The Drama under Disadvantages.—The Riverina.—Albury and the Victorian Frontier.—Protection and Free-trade.—Fishing in the Murray River.—Australian Fishes.—From Albury to Melbourne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

429

CHAPTER XX.

The Founding of Melbourne.—Batman and Fawkner.—Growth of Melbourne, Chicago, and San Francisco compared.—Sights and Scenes in the Australian Metropolis.—Collins Street, Bourke Street, and other Thoroughfares.—A General Description.—The Yarra River.—Botanical Gardens.—Dining at a Suburban Residence.—The Suburbs of Melbourne.—How One Hundred Dollars became One Million in Fifty Years.—Sandridge (Port Melbourne).—Scenes in the Harbor.—Reminiscences op the Gold Rush of 1851.—Bush-rangers and their Performances.—Plundering a Ship in Port.—Hobson's Bay and Port Phillip Bay.—Williamstown and St. Kilda.—Shark Fences.—Queenscliff.—Curious Rocks on the Coast.—Geelong.—Melbourne Newspapers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

452

CHAPTER XXI.

The Race for the Melbourne Cup.—Popularity of Horse-racing in Australia.—Cricket and other Sports.—Summer Retreats among the Mountains overlooking Melbourne.—"A Southerly Burster:" its Peculiarities.—Rapid Fall of the Thermometer.—Flooding the Streets of Melbourne.—Children Drowned in the Gutters.—Ballarat and the Gold-mines.—History of the Discovery of Gold in Australia.—The Rush to Ballarat and Bendigo.—Sandhurst: its Present Appearance.—Remarkable Yield of the Ballarat Mines.—"The Welcome Nugget."—Western District of Victoria.—Lake Scenery.—Australia's Potato-field.—Gippsland.—From Melbourne to Tasmania.—Launceston.—A Chapter of Tasmanian History.—Memories of Convict Days.—Corra Linn and other Show-places. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

474

CHAPTER XXII.

Excursion to Deloraine.—The Chudleigh Caves.—From Launceston to Hobart.—Across the Mountains.—The old Wagon-road built by Convicts.—Death of the Last Tasmanian.—How the Aborigines were Destroyed.—A Wonderful Tin-mine.—Hobart: its Climate and Attractions.—Loveliness of Tasmanian Ladies.—Port Arthur.—Dogs at the Neck.—From Hobart to Adelaide.—Arrival in South Australia.—Adelaide: its Principal Features.—A River that is not a River.—Churches and Religions.—Population of the Capital and Colony.—Extensive Wheat-farms.—Products of South Australia.—Fruit-growing.—Glenelg.—The Historic Gum-tree.—Parks and Gardens.—Overland to Port Darwin.—How the Telegraph was Built.—Explorations of Sturt and Stuart.—Camels in Australia.—A Side-saddle Camel.—An Affecting Incident.—The Overland Railway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

497

CHAPTER XXIII.

Australian Explorations.—The Blue Mountains First Traversed.—Discovery of the Lachlan, Macquarie, Murrumbidgee, and Murray Rivers.—Explorations of Sturt, Mitchell, Cunningham, Hume, and others.—Eyre's Journey along the Southern Coast.—Sufferings and Perils.—Burke and Wills: how they Perished in the Wilderness.—Monument to their Memory.—Colonel Warburton and his Camel-train.—Strapped to a Camel's Back.—Present Knowledge of the Australian Desert.—Aboriginals of South Australia.—Throwing the Boomerang.—A Remarkable Exhibition.—Origin of the Boomerang.—Duck-billed Platypus: a Puzzle for the Naturalists.—Visiting a Copper-mine.—Mineral Resources of the Colony.—Western Australia.—Albany, on King George Sound.—Description of the Colony.—Curious Poison-plants.—Farewell to Australia.—The End. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

518