The Cutters Practical Guide/Part 13
From Wikisource
| The Cutters Practical Guide Part 13 |
The Cutter's Practical Guide
to the cutting and making of all kinds of British Military Uniforms
Embracing Tunics, Frock Coats, Service Frocks, Mess. Jackets:: Overcoats, Pantaloons, Breeches and Puttees. ¶ Being Part XIII. of the Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of all kinds of Garments.
by W.D. Vincent Editor of the "Tailor and Cutter," and authour of Numerous Works on the Science and Art of cutting.
London:Published by THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED at the "Tailor and Cutter" office,42,Gerrard St,W.
[edit] AUTHOUR'S PREFACE
The recent changes in the garments worn by the officers of the British Army have affected both style and make, and have consequently created a demand for information on many topics.
The large number of details involved in the cutting and making of various garments worn by the various regiments has proved a Herculean task, and I do not hesitate to state it is the book which as cost me most worry and thought, and has given me more aching heads and sleepless nights than any work I have ever attempted. I have gone to be with it's intricacies on my brain, and I have awoke in the morning with the same theme before me; and now, after many months' labour the work is in the hands of the trade. I trust that which has cost me much pain will prove to the great gain. I have tried to make the work thoroughly exhaustive, and I have been most generously helped by my former students, who are now engaged in the very best of trades making a speciality of this class of business. I am not at liberty to mention their names, but I can and do most gratefully acknowledge the assistance of my former pupil. Mr. J Hwakesford of the Royal Army Clothing Department, Pimlico, with whom I have had many conferences, and from whom I have received many helpful suggestions. The drawing have been made under my supervision,and, in many cases they have been sketched from the actual garment. I therefore feel confident that the result will be of value to the trade generally, and especially that part of it which devotes it's attention to military garments. Every effort has been taken to avoid mistakes, but as changes are often made, we suppose it is almost too much to hope for absolute accuracy in every detail. Still, for this we have tried, and we hope our readers will find the product helpful.
W.D.F Vincent. page
[edit] Publishers' Preface
In placing in the hands of the Trade yet another addition to that encyclopaedic work, THE CUTTERS' PRACTICAL GUIDE, we realize the vast extent of ground that is covered by the comprehensive term, British Talioring; to enable the present-day tailor to fulfil the manifold requirements of his calling. The two latest volumes of the C.P.G. have dealt with what are known as speciality garments, and it is now our privilege to introduce another part, which treats of a branch of the trade that some may consider outside the beaten track, but which is one of considerable and growing importance, and one which offers splendid scope to the cutter who desires to be at once an artist and a through master of his profession.
In a work on Military Garments so much depends on absolute accuracy of detail and conformity with the not easily understandable official regulations, that it is essential,not only that a thoroughly reliable system should be used, but that the information conveyed should be verified and confirmed from all the best available source.
We have no hesitation, in either of these respects, in commending this book as being,as near possible, everything that such a book should be. The system is the now universally approved Cutters' Practical Guide System, and the author, Mr. W.D.F.Vincent, has spared no effort to make it fit to take rank with the most successful of his previous productions. The Cutters' Practical Guide method has been adopted in the Army Clothing Depot at Pimlico, it is used by many of the leading Master Tailors in the Service, and by quite a large number of cutters in the high-class tailoring firms in the West End.
In addition to this, Mr. Vincent has had access to the official regulations, has obtained his information even in matters of the minutest of detail, at the fountain head, and has consulted several of the most expert cutters in the trades where this branch is made a speciality - whose very cordial assistance he has here much pleasure in acknowledging.
In the arrangement of this book, every care has been taken to make it both trustworthy and convenient in use. The letterpress has been carefully compared with the diagrams, and the illustrations are in all cases so placed in context with descriptions as to be perfectly easy of reference and in a measure self explanatory.
In stating, with confidence, that no such valuable work on the subject has ever before been published, we are reminded of some line of Tennyson which seem particularly appropriate to the tailoring literature of our time, especially when we think of the difficulties which the former generations of cutters experiences in the pursuit of trade knowledge. We quote from memory, but the line are something like this:- "Read my little fable,
He who runs may read
All Can grow the flower,
Now all can get the seed."
Here we have seed of a very special character, gathered by one whose ripe experience makes the selection sure. It places in the hand of the student a means of self-cultivation, which, rightly used, cannot fail to bring the flowers of success in due season and will be equally valuable to the more mature professors of the art and science of cutting no matter whether this particular branch of his craft may be an occasional or a regular part of his work,
THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED.
page
[edit] Index
page
The Cutters Practical Guide to The Cutting of Military Garments.
[edit] Introduction
The radical changes made in Military Uniforms by His Majesty the King has created a demand for information on this important subject, such has not been experienced in many years. It has, therefore, been deemed an opportune occasion for me to write a a book on this phase of tailoring. At the outset it will be wise for me to state quite frankly that I am indebted to many cutters who have been engaged in this branch of the trade practically the whole of their business lives , and this work is, therefore, not merely the outcome of my own experience, but the result of many conferences I have had with military specialists, together with the outcome of many visits to, and much correspondence with the War Office.
The history of uniforms of the British Army is one that is also full of fascination, and is intimately associated with some of the most brilliant victories achieved by the force of arms. "The thin red line" has long been looked upon as the symbol of British heroism and pluck, and the beauty of the embodied scarfs ,etc., has been immortalised by Byron in his Childe Harold's Pilgrammge, in the course of which he describes the meeting of the rival armies in the Peninsular War, the Battle of Waterloo, etc.
We must, however leave it to other pens to deal with the history of military uniforms, for our business is neither to eulogise of depreciate the clothes of our soldiers. We have rather to treat of them as they are, to describe and illustrate their leading features to show how they are cut, and to offer a few suggestions on the making up of the same.
[edit] Army Constitution
Before we proceed to do this, however, it may be well to briefly describe the constitution of the British Army.
First, there is the General Staff, which have the control of the entire army and are responsible of the conduct of the campaign. They seldom come within the limits of the firing line, and so it is less important that their garments should be trimmed in a style to identify them as the leaders of the army. They are rather directors than leaders: their duty is to say to this man go and to the other come, and so on.
Then there are the four great branches of army, viz.: The Cavalry, or the horse soldiers; the infantry, or the foot soldiers, the Engineers, or the skilled mechanics; and the Artillery, or those who look after the guns, etc. Now, it naturally follows that the different occupations of these branches will require consideration. Whilst it is also necessary to provide different dresses for different occasions, viz., working, full dress, and mess. In addition to these branches there are various departments, such as the medicals, the veterinary, the ordinance, and the pay staffs, to be provided for, but these are more auxiliaries than constituents of the army proper. The Territorial Forces are organised in much the same way. The Yeomanry are Cavalry, and in the like manner we have Rifles and Artillerymen, and so on. Whilst their garments are based on same ideals as the uniforms of the Regular Army, yet many adaptations are necessary and we shall, therefore , have to treat of them.
[edit] Officers' dress only
It will, of course, be understood that we are here treating of the dress of officers only, the page uniform of the rank and file being provided for them by the Government, ans is made for them at the Royal Army Clothing Factory, Pimlico, or by some of the various contractors, who make a speciality of this kind of dress.
The British officer is not of such an erect or square shoulder build as the members of the rank and file, the drill he puts in less exacting, and the labour he has to perform is less heavy, so that he does not develop the muscles of his shoulders or produce so much prominence of chest as those who are under him. Still, it is as well that the cutter should bear in mind that the tendency of most officers is to be more or less erect, and what naturally follows, flat in the back and prominent in the chest. and when this is the case it must be provided for in the cut. Then it has also to be borne in mind that all garments worn with a separate belt need to be cut much closer fitting in the waist than the ordinary garment, but of this we shall deal more particularly when dealing with the garments themselves.
[edit] Sealed Patterns
Information on any Garment worn by any kind of British Officer may be obtained by personally visiting the War Office, and there the sealed garments for nearly every rank and variety of service may be inspected. This is arranged by Government to facilitate uniformity in the garments of officers, consequently the attendant in charge will, as a rule, do all in his power to give the information necessary, and even allow a rubbing to be taken of any particular section of braiding or embroidery, and all this without fee.
In addition to this the War Office publish from time to time printed details of the regulations, and considering they are not written by tailors, they are fairly explicit, though, in some cases,the meaning is very difficult to comprehend. Particulars of the uniforms worn by Territorial Regiments may generally be obtained from the Commanding Officer of the regiment. The names of these are published in the Official Army List, published monthly by Messrs. Eyr are Spottiswoode. Patterns of as few of these garments are deposited at the Royal Army Clothing Department, Grosvenor Road, Pimlico,S.W., where they may be seen by those interested. Applications to view must be made to the Chief Inspector at that establishment.
[edit] Different types of dress
There are at present three distinct types of dress, the first is the full-dress, which is worn on all occasions of State or ceremony, such as appearing before His Majesty the King, or on such ceremonies as are usually looked upon as requiring full-dress.
The second is a service dress, and it is this, which has undergone so great a change, both in cut,make, and finish. This dress is worn on active service both at home and abroad, and is practically the same for all branches of the Service. The third is the mess dress, which is worn by the officers at mess or dinner, when they all dine together in barracks or elsewhere. This dress has been very greatly simplified, and is now made of practically one pattern with a few variations in detail.
In addition to these three types of dress there is the overcoat, which is of quite a distinct style to what was formerly worn and is neatly as possible the same for all services, a slight adaptation being made for mounted officers.
The garments we describe are as follows:-
- Tunic.
- Lancers Tunic.
- Doublet.
- R.H.A Dress jacket.
- D.B. Frock Coat.
- S.B. Frock Coat.
- Mess Jackets.
- Mess Vests.
- Patrol Jackets
- Frocks
- Universal Service Frock
- Overcoats
- Infantry Trousers
- Cavalry Overalls
- Pantaloons' Cloth
- Pantaloons' Bedford Cord.
- Knickers.
[edit] Rank
The Officers of the Army differ in rank as follows:-
- Second Lieutenant is lower than Lieutenant.
- Lieutenant is lower than Captain.
- Captain is lower than Major.
- Major is lower than Lieutenant-Colonel.
- Lieutenant-Colonel is lower than Colonel.
- Colonel is lower than Brigadier-General.
- Brigadier-General is lower than Major-General.
- Major-General is lower than Lieutenant-General.
- Lieutenant-General is lower than General.
- General is lower than Field Marshal.
- Field Marshal is head of the Army.
Each of these ranks are distinguished by badges as per illustration. These, interpreted into words, read as follows:-
- Field Marshal: Crossed batons on a wreath of laurel, with a crown above.
- General: Crossed sword and baton, with star and crown above.
- Lieutenant-General: Crossed Sword and baton, and crown above
- Major-General: Crossed Sword and baton with star above.
- Brigadier-General: Crossed sword and baton.
page Template:Diagram colspan=2 page page
- Colonel : Crown and two stars below
- Lieutenant-Colonel: Crown and one star below
- Major: Crown
- Captain: Three stars
- Lieutenant: Two stars
- Second Lieutenant : One star.
The official regulations respecting these badges of rank are as follows:-
- Badges of rank, except when otherwise ordered, will be worn on all shoulder cords and shoulder straps. They will be in silver embroidery on gold shoulder cords, and gold-laced shoulder straps, and gilt ot gilding metal on plain cloth shoulder straps. In Rifle Regiments they will be in bronze. The crossed Sword is 2 inches full and baton 1/8 inch shorter. The crows when laid on shoulder cords or straps are 1 inch broad and 7/8 inch in height; the stars are 1 inch between opposite points.
- The batons forming part of the Field-Marshal's badges will be in embroidery and crimson velvet.
- General Officer's badges are worn in pairs, point of sword to the front and edge of blade outwards or towards the arm.
- Regimental officers having Brevet Rank wear badges of their army rank; Departmental Officers having honorary rank, the badges of that rank; and Departmental Officers not having honorary rank, the badge of the combatant grade with which they rank.
[edit] Rank Badges for non-commissioned officers
(see Plate of Illustrations)
Although this book only deals with the uniforms worn by Commissioned Officers, yet we have thought it well to give some illustrations of the rank badges used to distinguish the Non-Commissioned Officers, thinking thy may prove of service to our readers. The badge ranks for
[edit] Cavalry
are arranged in the following order:-Sergeant-Major,Troop Sergeant-Major,Quarter-Master-Sergeant,Corporal,Farrier-Sergeant,Corporal-Farrier,Trumpet-Major,Trumpeter,Rough Rider. Most of these badge marks are worked in gold lace or thread, with here and there a touch of red, as, for instance, in the horseshoe for the farrier. The hole are in red, and as nearly all Cavalry tunics are made from blue cloth, this helps to show up the design.
[edit] Engineers
The Engineers, on the other hand, generally wear red tunics, and here again, the badge ranks are worked with gold lace or braid, but in the case of Bugle Major. where flags from part of the ornament, a little blue is inserted. The badge ranks for the engineers are arranged in the following order: Sergeant-Major,Troop Sergeant-Major,Sergeant,Quarter-Master Sergeant,Corporal,Lance-Corporal,Bugle Major,Farrier-Major,Sergeant-Wheeler,Wheeler,Corps of Ordinance Artificers, Shooting Prize.
[edit] Infantry
Infantry tunics are generally made from red cloth, and for the most part they have the badges worked in gold lace or thread; there are some few badge marks however which are made in white, such as the Corporal and Lance Corporal, Bandsman and Pioneer, the rest are worked in gold. As placed on this Plates, they are arranged in the following order: Sergeant Major,Colour-Sergeant,Quarter-Master-Sergeant,Musketry-Instructor,Sergeant,Corporal,Lance-Corporal,Band Sergeant,Bandsman,Sergeant-Pioneer,Pioneer and Drum Major.
In the case of the badge for the Colour-Sergeant, where the flag forms the leading part of the design, blue is worked in as well as red, so at to produce the Union Jack.
[edit] Artillery
Artillery badges are for the most part worked with gold lace on blue and are arranged in the following order:- Master Gunner (1st class),Master Gunner (2nd class),Master Gunner (3rd class),Battery Sergeant-Major,Quarter-Master-Sergeant, Sergeant,Corporal,Bombardier,Rough Rider and Farrier. We have illustrated one or two badges of a general character. For instance, we have given a series of good conduct badges; that for the non-commissioned officer is of gold lace on blue cloth, that for the Private in the Cavalry,Artillery and Engineers of yellow braid on blue cloth. that for the Private in the Infantry white braid on red cloth, whilst the badge for the Army Hospital Corps is a cross of red cloth on a white ground and placed on blue cloth.
Those badges indicated by wavy lines are made of gold lace, and those which are left plain are for the most part made from braid or worsted,the exception being Corporal and Lance Coporal of the Engineers and Corporal and Bombardier of the Artillery, which are of gold. All the ornaments are worked in gold except that for Infantry Pioneer, which is of worsted.
[edit] Aiguilettes
Whilst writing of these it may be well to refer to the Aiguilette. The Staff Aiguilette is worn by those officers only who are serving on the Headquarter, General and Personal Staff, and only by them when performing Staff duties. The following are the official regulations :- page
- Cord 1/4 inch gold and red Orris basket, with plait and cords loop in front and same at back,the plaits ending in plain cord with gilt metal tags. The plait and cords, front and back, are joined together by a short scarlet cloth strap, in which is worked a button hole. The aiguilette is attached to the shoulder of the tunic or frock coat by a button placed under the outer end of the shoulder cord. The long cord is looped up on the top or front cord, the front cord and the short and long plaits are fastened together, and a small gold braid loop is fixed thereon to attach to the top button of the tunic and frock coat - on the latter on the side on which the aiguilette is worn. The arm is passed between the front plait and cord, and the back or long plait and cord.
The aiguilette is worn on the right shoulder by all Officers of the Headquarters Staff of the Army and by the Personal Staff of the Governor-General of Canada and Colonial Governors, and on the left by other Staff Officers entitled to wear it.
Another style of aigulette is worn by the Field Marshals, and the Personal Staff of the King and Royal Family, the details of which are that it is made of gold wire cord 1/4 inch in diameter, with gilt embossed tags, and it is worn on the right shoulder.
In addition to these badges there are special regimental devices worn on the collars of tunics, the lapels of Mess Jackets. There is such a large variety of these that we content ourselves with a few specimens, representing the various branches of the army.
The same remark applies to the buttons used on military garments, though it is well to add that all Military buttons, with the exception of vest buttons, are die struck, the vest buttons are mounted.
In addition to these marks of distinction there is also a little difference made in the length of skirts, the official regulation being as follows :-
[edit] Depth of Skirts
- The Skirts of tunics for officers 5 feet 9 Inches in height will be :-
- For Field-Marshals, General Officers and Colonels on the Staff, Royal Artillery, Royal Engineers, Foot Guards, Infantry Regiments,
page Army Service Corp.,Royal Army Medical Corps, and Departments generally - 10 inches. For Staff, Cavalry, and Rifle Regiments - 9 inches.
- The proportionate variation for each inch of difference in height is about 1/8 inch in the skirts of tunics.
- The skirts of frock coats reach to the knees.
[edit] Sashes
The following are the regulations for Sashes and Sword Belts : -
- All Sashes are now worn around the waist, as per Special Army Order for June 1902.
- Sashes are of such length that the ends of the tassels shall just reach the bottom of the skirt of the tunic.
- Sword belts, other than pattern known as the "Sam Browne" belt are worn as follows:-
- Over the Tunic (or Doublet) by the Personal Staff of the Sovereign and Royal Family, and by officers of all arms except by Field Marshalls, General Officers, Colonels on the staff, Equerries to the Royal Family, Officers of Cavalry of the Line, Mounted Officers of Royal Artillery, and Rifle Regiments.
- Over the blue frock coat and under patrol jackets and frocks.
- The Web belt is worn by Officers of all branches of the Service who wear the sword belt under the tunic, patrol jacket or frock. Slings are made with studs and holes, so that they can be removed from the belt if required.
It is not our intention to touch on the matter of caps and other accoutrements, as full information on these can be obtained from the War Office Regulation Book, or from those houses who make a speciality of supplying such goods.
[edit] Estimate of Prices
The following estimate of prices for a Second Lieutenants garments has been obtained from the Army and Navy Stores, and will supply our reader with some idea of the prices charged by a firm who do this class of trade well, and at the same time cut prices rather fine. The fact that they probably do as large a military trade as any firm in London should make this estimate a valuable one, and will serve as a guide for our readers to work to.
| £ | S. | d. | |
| Tunic,Badges,extra | 7 | 0 | 0 |
| Mess Jacket,Bade extra...from | 4 | 4 | 0 |
| Mess vest | 1 | 4 | 6 |
| Mess Overalls | 1 | 16 | 0 |
| Frock Coat,Badges Extra | 5 | 10 | 0 |
| Undress Overalls | 1 | 16 | 0 |
| Great Coat | 4 | 4 | 0 |
| Service Jacket,Badges Extra | 2 | 10 | 0 |
| Knickers,Breeches | 1 | 10 | 0 |
| Helmet | 2 | 9 | 0 |
| Blue Forage Cap,Badge Extra | 0 | 17 | 6 |
| Service Forage Cap,complete | 0 | 15 | 6 |
| Waist Sash | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Web Belt and Sword Sling | 1 | 0 | |
| Dress Sword Knot | 0 | 10 | 6 |
| Sword | 3 | 7 | 6 |
| Sword Bag | 0 | 10 | 6 |
| Sword Knot,Brown | 0 | 2 | 6 |
| "Sam Browne" Belt | 1 | 15 | 0 |
| "Sam Browne" Scabbard | 0 | 12 | 6 |
| Two Pairs Brown Gloves | 0 | 8 | 6 |
| One Pair White Gloves | 0 | 3 | 6 |
| Whistle an Lanyard | 0 | 3 | 8 |
| Spat Puttees ... Per Pair | 0 | 9 | 6 |
| Cap Badges | |||
| Collar Badges | |||
| Uniform Case | 1 | 15 | 0 |
[edit] Field Service Uniform
| £ | S. | d. | |
| Kahki Serge Patrol | 2 | 10 | 0 |
| Kahki Serge Overalls,with footstraps | 1 | 0 | 0 |
| Khaki Drill Patrol | 1 | 12 | 0 |
| Kahki Drill Overalls,with footstraps | 0 | 13 | 6 |
| Bedford Cord Pantaloons, strapped Buckskin | 2 | 12 | 6 |
| Bedford Cord Breeches, strapped Buckskin | 2 | 17 | 6 |
| Kahki Clavin Cord Breecheds, strapped same material | 1 | 12 | 6 |
| Kahki Great Coat | 3 | 15 | 0 |
| Kahki "Brtish Warm" Great Coat,lined serge | 3 | 0 | 0 |
| Puttees, Blue or Kahki, per pair from | 0 | 3 | 0 |
| Pigskin Putee Leggings ... per pair | 1 | 1 | 0 |
| Kahki felt Slouch Hat (Badge Extra) | 0 | 10 | 6 |
| Kahki Serge Fatigue Cap, plain buttons | 0 | 10 | 6 |
| Kahki Serge Staff Forage Cap with peak | 0 | 13 | 6 |
| "Sam Browne" Belt, Scabbard and Knot, complete | 2 | 10 | 0 |
| Silk Revolver Lnayard | 0 | 3 | 6 |
| Silk Whistle Lanyard | 0 | 1 | 0 |
| Adjustable Spine Protector | 0 | 7 | 6 |
| Moveable Gorget Patches, Generals, per pair | 0 | 7 | 0 |
| Moveable Gorget Patches, Staff and Departmental,per pair | 0 | 6 | 0 |
| Moveable Gorget Patches,Civil Medical,per pair | 0 | 4 | 0 |
[edit] New Service Uniform
(1902 Patterns)
| £ | s. | d. | |
| Service Jacket,according to rank | 2 | 10 | 0 |
| Service Knicker Breeches | 1 | 10 | 0 |
| Service Pantaloons,Strapped Buckskin | 2 | 12 | 6 |
| Service Breeches, Strapped Buckskin | 2 | 17 | 6 |
| Service Overalls, with footstraps | 1 | 0 | 0 |
| Service Cap and badge | 0 | 15 | 6 |
| Service Great Coat | 4 | 4 | 0 |
| Service Spat puttees,per pair | 0 | 9 | 0 |
N.B. - All badges and distinctive marks on above coats charged extra. page
[edit] Measuring
The system described in the following pages is one that is especially adapted to the production of military garments, as may be gathered from the fact that it has been adopted by the authorities at Pimlico, for the instruction of those that pass through the cutting school, with a view of becoming master tailors, and is also used in some of the best military houses in the West End. It is based on the principles of direct measurement, which, in our opinion, is the safest to use for all kinds of customers, and especially so for those who are at all disproportionate, The measures may be taken with accuracy and speed after a very little practice, and in order to make the principle of these measurements plane we have prepared the accompanying figures: -
THE MEASURES WE ADVISE are as follows :- Chest,Waist,hips,depth of scye, length to waist,full length,width across back, continue to elbow, continue to cuff,neck, front shoulder,over shoulder,across chest, and height of neck. The only measures we need specially refer to, are the depth of scye, the front shoulder, the over shoulder and the cross chest.
To find the seye, make a mark or put in a pin on the centre of back level with the Bottom of scye; there are various methods of obtaining this.
- (1) Take the square,bring it up to the armpit,make a mark at the back scye,now remove the square, place it across the back level with this mark and so get point desired/
- (2) Place tape over neck, saddle fashion, bring it back under the arms to centre of back,
see that it is level and so obtain mark. Either method will produce good results. Measure from nape of neck A, Fig.1 to B.
Front Shoulder. -Measure from A,Fig.1, by D to E, which is level of bottom of scye in front of arm Over Shoulder. -Measure from B,Fig.1, over shoulder at C to E,Fig .1 Across Chest. -Measure from F, Fig.2, to front of scye on opposite side G.
Height of neck measures from A. Fig 1 by H, Fig.2 to a point anywhere about the region of 1, note the quantity, fix the tape and measure up to the collar seam at J.
The other measurements are taken as usual. An average scale of measurements for the proportionate figure is as follows :-
| Chest | Waist | Scye Depth | Natural Waist | Across Back | Full Length Sleeve | Across Chest | Front Shoulder | Over Shoulder |
| 34 | 30 | 85/8 | 161/2 | 67/8 | 31 | 75/8 | 12 | 161/4 |
| 36 | 32 | 9 | 17 | 714 | 32 | 8 | 1212 | 17 |
| 38 | 34 | 93/8 | 171/4 | 76/8 | 33 | 81/2 | 13 | 173/4 |
| 40 | 37 | 93/4 | 133/4 | 8 | 331/2 | 9 | 1312 | 181/2 |
The scale used at Pimlico
[edit] Care and Preservation of Uniform
Articles of uniform liable to be moth eaten should be unfolded at intervals and well beaten page and brushed in the open air. Russia leather pairings, powdered camphor, naphtaline, carbolised paper, or turpentine sprinkled on brown paper,or on the garments, are good for the prevention of moth, and one or another of these preventatives should be placed amongst articles of uniform which are to be packed away for any time.
Before being packed away, gold lace, braid, cord or buttons on garments, should be covered with tissue paper, and then placed in tin lined air-tight cases. Care must be taken to use paper that is thoroughly dry. For the prevention of moth, the garments should be well aired and brushed before being packed.
[edit] Gold Lace
Gold trimmings and gold lace that have become slightly tarnished can be cleaned with a mixture of cream of tartar and dry bread rubbed up very fine, applied in a dry state, and brushed lightly with a clean soft brush.
Another plan of cleaning tarnished gold lace is to apply turkey rhubarb with a soft brush. If itis dirty it should be dipped in a soloution of potassium. but if this is used special care should be taken of it,as it is a strong poison.
[edit] Silver Lace
To clean silver lace, wet it with plain magnesia applied with a soft brush.
[edit] Removing stains from Scarlet Tunics or Frocks
In many cases stains may be removed by the part affected being rubbed with dry pipeclay and then well brushed with a clean brush. Should this fail to remove them the following mixture may be tried :-
- 1/3 ounce of salts of sorrel to 1/2 pint of boiling water
- 1/3 ounce of cream of tartar to 1/2 pint of cold water
Each solution should be kept in a separate flat vessel. These quantities will be sufficient to clean two or three garments. The garment which requires cleaning should first be well beaten and brushed and a perfectly clean hard brush should be used in applying the soloutions. The solutions should be applied alternatly, commencing with the salts of sorrel, until the garment has been washed all over, and all the stains removed. If the Weather permits, the cleaned garments should be hung up to dry; If not they should be hung in a dry place, but not near fires or stoves. Another plane of cleaning scarlet cloth is to dissolve a pennyworth of salts of lemon in warm water with half a lemon sliced in addition. Put this on with a soft brush ans finish by rubbing it with a piece of clean scarlet cloth.
[edit] Full Dress Garments
Starting with full dress, the principal garment which claims are attention is the Tunic, together with its variations, the Highland Doublet, the Lancers' Tunic, and the R.H.A. Dress Jacket. The body part for most of these is the same, as will be seen by the diagram on succeeding pages, the back is cut on the crease, the shoulder seam is cut decidedly high, a fair amount of round is given to the side body, the waist seam is placed exactly at the natural waist, and ample room is given to the chest in all cases. We will, however, describe he system for cutting this when we deal with the diagrams ; at the present stage we will describe how tunics are made for the different ranks.
[edit] Tunic for Field Marshall
This is made of scarlet cloth with collar and cuffs of blue cloth; gold embroidery is placed on the collar and cuffs; the cuffs are 3 inches deep, and the gold embroidery is 21/4 deep round the top.
A flap is put on each sleeve, 61/2 inches deep and 2 inches wide between the point; it is made of scarlet cloth embroidered in gold.
Sword flaps are place at the back of each skirt, 1/2 inch shorter than the skirt itself. The width at the bottom point being 3 inches. The number of buttons down the front is 8; 2 are placed behind and three on each flap; an edging of white cloth 3/16 wide is put down the front round the collar,cuffs and flaps. The shoulder cords are gold plaited wire basket cord 3/16inch in diameter, with a small gold gimp down the centre. The strap of the shoulder cord is 21/4 inches wide, ending in a 4-inch wing; an aiguilette of gold wire cord 4 inches in diameter, with gilt embroidered tags, is worn on the right shoulder. page
[edit] Tunic for General,Lieutenant-General, Major General and Brigadier-General.
This tunic is made of scarlet cloth, with collar and cuffs of blue cloth; gold embroiderey is put on the collar and cuffs, the cuffs are made 3 inches,the gold embroidery being 21/4 inches deep round the top. Flaps of scarlet cloth are put on each sleeve 61/4 inches deep and 2inches wide between the the points ; this is embroidered in gold ; a sword flap is put at the back of each skirt 1/2 inch shorter than the skirt and 31/4 inches wide at the bottom point. There are 8 buttons down the front, 3 on each flap and 2 at the waist behind. White cloth edging, 3/16 wide is put down the front, round the collar, on the flaps, cuffs and skirt. Shoulder cords of gold plaited wire basket cord 3/16 inch in diameter, with a samll gimp down the centre. The width of the strap of the shoulder cord is 21/4 inches, ans at the end a small 4 inch wing.
An eylet hole is places at the end next to the collar for a small gilt button; the underside of the cord is lined with scarlet cloth and has a gilt or gilded metal fastening below.
[edit] Tunic for the Colonel on the Staff and Substantive Colonel
This is made of scarlet cloth with collar and cuffs of blue cloth; the collar is laced round the top and bootm with 5/8-inch lace, round the cuff 3 inches deep with with two rows of 5/8 inch lace round the top, showing 1/8 of blue cloth between the bars.
A flap of scarlet cloth is placed on each sleeve 6 inches long, and 21/2 inches wide at the point; this is edged with lace 5/8 inch wide. A sword flap is put at the back of each skirt, reaching to within 1/2 inch of the bottom. The flaps are made 1/2 inch wide at the top, 1 1/2 inches at the centre point and 2 1/4 at the bottom. A bar of 5/8 lace from the centre of the waist to the bottom of the skirt, 8 buttons down the front, 3 on each flap, the top button on the flap behinds being at the waist. The front,collar, cuffs, flaps, and bar of lace, and the skirts are edged with white cloth 3/16 inch wide. The Tunic is lined with white, round the waist a band of white leather, 2 inches wide, fastening with 2 hooks and eyes, twisted round gold shoulder cords of the universal pattern, lined with scarlet and a small button at the top.
[edit] Tunic for a Military Attache
Tunic for Milltary Attaché is same as for Colonel on the Staff with the staff aiguilette and forage cap.
[edit] Tunic for Officers under the rank of Colonel
Tunic for these Officers is same as Colonel on the Staf, only the one bar of lace on the collar and cuffs.
[edit] Tunic for Aide-De-Camp to the King
This is made of scarlet cloth with collar and cuffs of blue cloth; the skirt is cut 12 inches deep for an officer 5 feet 9 inches in height with a proportionate variation for any differences in height. On each side front there are 8 straight loops of Mohair cord-- which are not pierced through the cloth, but carried to the front--which is drawn in, a regulation which has been name so that the garment may be available for use on promotion: these loops are 4 inches long below the waist, and 5 inches above the waist, on the left side. It fastens down the front with hooks and eyes, but buttons are plugged down the left side (see pgae 10). A gold embroidered frog drop loop is placed on each side of the collar, a round cuff 3 inches deep, and a scarlet flap is placed on each sleeve with three embroidered loops and buttons/ The length og loop is to be 1 3/4 inches, exclusive of the drop.
A sword flap of scarlet cloth is placed on the back of each skirt, 10 inches long and 2 inches wide. with two loops and buttons similar to those on the sleeve.
Two buttons on the waist behind; an edging of white cloth 1/4 inch wide, is put round the collar,cuffs,flaps and back skirt.
The skirts are lined with white, and an inside breast pocket is put on the left side, and pockets are put inside each skirt behind. The front of this tunic is fastened with hooks and eyes. page
[edit] Tunic for Equerry to the King
This is practically the same as for the Aide-de-Camp, but there are four embroidered loops and buttons on the sleeves.
[edit] Cavalry Tunics
The Cavalry Tunic of the 1st Life Guards is made of scarlet cloth, with blue velvet collar cuffs, and edging with stitched edges.
The tunic for the 2nd Life Guards is made of scarlet cloth, but has blue velvet collar and cuffs, and edging with stitched edges.
The tunic for the Royal Horse Guards is blue cloth, with scarlet cloth collar and cuffs and edging: on each side the collar is placed an embroidered device 5 1/2inches to 6 Inches long and 2 inches wide. The cuffs are gauntlet shape and are embroideres in a simmilar manne to the collar.
Buttons are placed in the centre of the embroidery, and three loops of embroidery of the same pattern are placed on the back skirt page There are 9 Buttons down the front, 2 at the waist behind. The front of the skirt is rounded ans it is lined with blue cassimere in the 1st Life guards; scarlet Italian in the 2nd Life guards; scarlet cassimere in the Royal Horse Guards. A Gold cord aiguilete, with engraved gilt tags, is worn on the right shoulder; a plaited gold cord on top of the shoulder.
A strip of embroidery 1/2- inch is placed round the top of the collar and cuffs of the Tunics worn by the Field Officers.
[edit] Tunics For Dragoon Guards and Dragoons
These are made of scarlet cloth and cuffs of the colour of the regulation facing. These are as follows:- The 1st (King's Own), the 3rd(Prince of Wales'), 4th (Royal Irish), 5th (Princess Charlotte of Wales'), 7th Dragoon Guards (Queen's Bays), 1st Royal,2nd Royal,Scotch Greys, and 6th Insikillings, of cloth
The Collar ornamented with 3/4 inch lace, with the exception of the 2nd Dragoon Gaurds(Queen's Bays) and 1st Royal Dragoons, which have 1 inch.
Round the top of collar and down the front only for Officers of all ranks.
The cuffs are made 2 inches deep at the point 1 1/4 at the back edge, with round back gold cord, forming a single Austrian knot 7 3/4 inches deep: Template:Column break 8 buttons are placed up the front and 2 at the waist behind; a word flap of scarlet cloth is placed at the back of the skirt,edged with round back gold cord and traced inside and out with gold Russia braid. The front is edged with the same material and colours as facings of the skirt are lined with white, plaited gold shoulder cord lined with scarlet and small button at the top.
[edit] Tunics for 6th Dragoon Guards
Tunic is made from blue cloth, the top and bottom of the collar has round back gold cord all round, pointed cuffs,are of white cloth, the collar is laced with cord like that for other Dragoon Guards; cuffs for all ranks are trimmed with a single Austrian knot, and a tracing of plan braid. The Austrian knot is about 7 1/2 inches deep.
There are 8 buttons placed up the front and 2 at the back of the waist; a sword flap is placed on the back of each skirt ; it is trimmed with 3 buttons and edged with round back gold cord, plaited flat gold shoulder cord lined with blue and a small button at the top.
[edit] Hussar's Tunic
This is made of blue cloth and edged all round with gold chain gimp, on each side of the breast, page six loops of gold chain gimp with caps and drops, fastened with gold work olivets, on each back seam a double line of the same gimp forming three eyes at the top, passing under a netted cap at the waist and terminating with an Austrian knot right to the bottom of the skirt, a tracing of gold braid alll round the gimp, and Austrian knot of gold chain gimp is placed on each sleeve, reaching up to 8 inches from the bottom of the cuffs; the skirt is rounded off in the front and closed behind, and lined with black; shoulder cords of plaited gold chain gimp lined with blue, a small button at the top. The collar is of blue except for the 13th which is white, and the 3rd, which is red, there is a 3/4 inch gold lace on top and down end of front collar. Gold chain gimp on the collar seam
[edit] Military Tunic System
Draw Line 1 G, make 1 to O 1 inch from 0 to F, depth of scye as taken on customer, O to G depth of scye as taken on customer. O to E is 1/2 depth of scye plus 1/2 inch, square line across from 1 E F G, from O to E 1/2 depth of scye plus 1/2 inch, square lines across from 1 E F G. This must be done quite straight as the back is taken out on the crease. From 1 to A is 1/6 of the neck measure plus 1/4 inch, adn from this point square up to B 1/8(?) of the breast plus 1 inch.
From B mark out to C,from 3/4 inch to 1 inch, and by these points shape back scye from C to D, and shoulder seam from C to A, and back neck from O to A Draw line from D to G and hollow the side seam of back I about 3/4 inch , the width of the back from H to Q is made equal to one eighteenth of the breast, thus 2 inches is a 36 size
From Q to R is 2 inches, the waist suppression taken out of a Tunic being rather more than for an ordinary coat, for the reason that it is held very close to the waist by the aid of the belt, use point D as a pivot and sweep from Q to V, and so get the length of the side body at the back. Make point 1 a pivot and sweep forward from point. 1/4 inch above D as shown; to find top of side body take out 1/8 inch at top an draw side seam of side body, as from D I R to V, from point 1/4 to J, is 1/4 of the breast from point 1/4 to L is 1/2 chest measure plus 2 1/2 inches, from L to K is across chest measure as taken on customer; there are some, however who prefer to find the front of scye by measuring across from 1 to K 2/3 of the breast measure. We now proceed to find the neck point by sweeping from K in the direction of N by the front shoulder measure, less the width of back neck from O to A, add 1 inch to this quantity and sweep again, making point L a pivot and where these two segments intersect each other locate the neck point. Now measure the distance from 1/4 to O S, deducting Template:Column break page it from the overshoulder measure, as taken on the customer, and sweep the remainder, make point K a pivot and sweep in direction of Template:Diagram colspan=2 M, this will give the slope of the shoulder. Make the distance from M to N 1/4 inch less than from A to C and draft the scye, advancing it Template:Column break about 1/8 inch in front of the line drawn up from K. To find point O, place the square on L N and mark out from N to O 1/8 of the neck, mark down from O to P 1/8(?) of neck plus 1/2 inch. The size of neck should be carefully checked by the measure taken, but very little variation will page found nessacry in the majority of cases; square a line down from J and hollow the side body (?) inch at S, and the forepart 1 inch at T. This make 1 1/2 inches of suppression taken out of the underarm seam. Now measure up to the wiast from H to Q, R to S and T to U to the 1/2 waist measure plus 1 inch. Square a line across from V to X and hollow the waist seam 1/2 inch at W. Add on 3/4 inch for the button holes, but cut the button side to the breast line and sew on the button stand.
[edit] The Skirt
Draw line from X to V straight, measure down from X to *Z one twelfth of the seat plus 1 inch and draw line V to AA at right angles to V Z, andd on 3/4 inch of round at the back, and get the spring of the front by measuring down from V to Y one-twelfth of the seat minus 1 inch,darw line from X to BB at right angles to *Y. It will be seen that the left edge is not so advanced as the right edge. The extra Width of the button stand necessitates the extra width of skirt on the right side, hollow waist seam 1/4 inch and complete as diagram.
We give the illustration of the back skirt, which is cut separately . Draw line from H to CC,make H to Q 2 inches. CC to DD 2 1/2 inches add on 1/2 inch for seams above H Q, and allow 1/2 inch for side pleat beyond Q. DD.
[edit] The Sleeve
Military Sleeves are pitched at the top of side seam behind and 3/4 inch above the level of scye in front. The sleeve must of course be made to fit the scye. Draw line O to J, O to A is width of scye, which may be found by deducting the width of the back from 1/4 to K. O to 1 1/4 is 1 1/4 inches always I1/4 to C is the size of the top of scye between the two pitches, and found by measuring from D to C and M to forearm pitch. O to B is 1/2 the distance I1/4 to C. Add on 2/4 inch of rould at L and complete sleeve head as illustrated. Measure off the length of sleeve to elbow and cuff, make the width of cuff from F to H 1/? of the breast and hollow it at the forearm from F to G 1 inch. For J to to K is made about 1/6 of the breast. J to I may be made 1 1/2 inches of the run of the cuff can be found by squaring at H K. The underside sleeve is found by measuring around the bottom of the scye from K J to D, and measure across from A to D of sleeve. A to E is about 1/3 of 1 1/4 D, the underside sleeve may be drawn by these points, continue down from D to H and complete sleeve as shown. This sleeve applies to all ordinary garments.
[edit] Tunic for Corpulent Figure
Corpulent figures vary from the normal, particularly in the difference of proportion Template:Column break of the shoulders to the breast and waist measures, or, in other words, when a figure begins to develop corpulency the size of the shoulders does not increase in the same ratio as the breast and waist. Template:Diagram The development is as 1 inch at the breast to 3/4 inch at the shoulders. If I take military tunic to the 48 breast and 48 waist we may be able to learn something by working it out,especially page with regard to fixing the waist length of the front. The millitary scale measures for such a figure are as follows:- Depth of scye 10 1/2 natural waist 18, skirt length 11 /2, or total length 28 1/2, across back 8 3/4, front shoulder 16, over-shoulder 22, neck or collar measure 18 3/4. If this size is Template:Digaram colspan=2 to be drafted out by the breast measure a working scale of 45 inches should be taken for the shoulder quantities. The diagram is produced as follows:- Square lines at right angles to A. From A to O is 1 inch. Template:Column break O is the starting point for measuring length of back. O to 10 1/2 is depth of scye, O to 18 1/2 natural waist, O to 28 1/2 the full length of the tunic. Mark in 1/2 inch at 18, and draw line for centre of back. O to 5 3/4 is half depth of scye and 1/2 inch. Square line across from 5 3/4 , 10 1/2, 18 and 28 1/2 Mark off at A one sixth of the neck and 1/4 inch. Square up from width of back one-sixth of breast and 1 inch. page Draw Back scye and shoulder seam, and go up and out half an inch at neck point.
The width of the back part of the waist line is 2 1/2 inches. Draw a line from the top of side-seam to 18, and hollow sideseam of back part 1 inch.
The underarm seam is fixed at 1/2 of breast measure, and the round of sidebody is shaped in harmony with the back part; 1 1/2 inches suppression between back and sidebody, and 1/2 inch on each side of the construction line at the underarm seam.
From 10 1/2 to the front scye is two-thirds of the working scale 45, equal to 15 inches from the centre of the back. Extend line across to breast size 24, and 2 1/2 for making up (26 1/2).
Mark up from 26 1/2 to B one sixth of the disproportion. A proportionate military figure is 5 inches smaller waist then chest, thus 48 b., 43 w., which gives five-sixthes of an inch from 26 1/2 to B.
Draw a new line breast line from 2/3 to B.
Apply the front shoulder measure from 2/3 to E, after deducting the quantity C to D E to H is the same with as back shoulder less 1/2 inch.
Hollow the scye 1/2 or 3/8 inch in in front of line drawn from 2/3. Measure out from E 1/6 of neck measure, and mark down 1/6 and 1/2 inch extra for a figure of this type.
Draw the centre line to B Make up the size of the waist 24 and 1 inch. Add 5/8 inch for button-hole side all the way down the front.
Drop the forepart 1 inch below the original waist line 18,24 plus 1
The waist seem is hollowed 1/2 inch.
[edit] The Skirt
Draw a straight line from the bottom of the forepart. Hollow line 1/4 inch immediately in front of the underarm seam.
In order to obtain the spring at the back of skirt mark down one-sixth of the breast scale and 1 inch, and draw line at right angles to K N.
The spring at the front of the skirt is obtained by marking down from N to L one-sixth less 1 inch, and square lines at right angles to L M. All divisions on this diagram are reckoned of the half breast.
[edit] General Remarks
The waist length of Tunics should be cut to the nett measure, as no such thing as a "fashion waist" exists in garments designed to be worn with a tight-fitting belt. In any case, it is better to cut the length of waist 1/2 inch too short than too long.
A Stand of 5/8 inch is left on down the left forepart for the button holes, but the button-stand should always be seamed on down the right forepart so as to ensure a snog fit down the front edge. Template:Column break The sleeve for a figure of this description should be cut as to have slightly backward hang
[edit] Hints on Making Up Tunics
A very great deal of the success of military garments depends upon the employment of skilled workmen, and there is no branch of tailoring in which a speciality shows off to so much advantage as in the making of military garments. It will be well for the cutter to start with the knowledge of the ideal fit required.
In a Tunic is should be made to closely fit at the waist,easy at the chest, close at the neck with ample provision made for the movement of the arms. Now it will be found that in order to obtain this, care must be taken: it will not be an easy matter to produce this ideal, as a close fit over the hips necessitates a little stretching out of the forepart, just over the hips, otherwise there will be a tendency for it to crease at that particular part. For the collar to fit snug at the neck the forepart will require stretching at the neck point a trifle. The back being cut on the crease will be improved if a little attention is given to the spring in the centre; the part which requires more skill than any other is the drawing in of the front edge; the forepart is cut with a moderate amount of round, and this drawn in when the button stand is sewn on, and it is customary in some of the best trades to put this to the straight thread of the canvas, in just the same way as with the lapel seam of a frock coat. The canvas is then adjusted to the form of the forepart, by the insertion of puffs and the taking out of Vs. The finish of the linings must also be arranged in keeping with a full dress garment for an Officer, which means that in most cases the lining would either be quilted or creased and stitched. The braiding of the sleeve and collar is not such a difficult matter as was formerly the case,but it will be found an advantage to have the sleeve seam sewn and pressed open before any braiding is attempted. Whatever the pattern of braiding to be followed, care should be taken to have it as correct as possible, when putting on braid or cord, special care must be taken not to get it on short. For pressing gold lace the iron used should be moderately cool, a piece of cloth should be put over the lace to be pressed, and a piece of lining put on top of the cloth. The iron may then be placed in the position desired, and allowed to stand for some little while; in this way the lace may be successfully pressed. When collar-facings are used, great care must be used to avoid soiling them, a caution which is very necessary, seeing so many of them are of a very light colour. We have not yet referred to the finish at the waist, but it should be borne in mind that the waist is to be made to fit closely. It is customary to put a waist-belt and clasp on the inside, the colour harmonising with the lining. When page finished, the waist should measure from button to button hole the same size as measure taken on the customer, or at most 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch more.
We now proceed to deal with the different varities of the Tunic.
[edit] Lancers' Tunic
Lancer's Tunics are made of blue cloth, except the 16ht Lancers, whose Tunic is made of scarlet; it is cut D B with front, collar and cuffs of the regimental facings, cuffs are pointed, collar and Template:Digaram colspan=1 cuffs are ornamented with 1 inch lace round the top, the point of the cuff extending to 8 1/2 inches from the bottom. Two rows of buttons in the front, seven in each row, and rows about 8 inches Template:Diagram colspan=1 apart at the top and 4 inches at the waist. The bottom buttons are flat to go under the girdle, two buttons are placed at the back of waist, a three-pointed sword flap is placed on the back of each skirt: these are edged with square gold cord, and decorated with three buttons on each flap. A welt or piping of the regimental facing on the sleeves and back seams, down the front and round the skirts. The skirts are lined with white in the 16th and with blue in the other regiments, gold wire shoulder cord lined with blue, with the exception of the 16th lancers which is lined with scarlet; a small button is placed at the top.
[edit] LANCER'S TUNIC
The diagram is drafted to the following measures:- Depth of scye 8 1/4; natural waist, 16; length of skirt 9; neck, 15 3/4; back, 7; sleeve 32;breast 36; waist 31.
Square the line 1/6 N, 1 and 16 Mark down one inch for nape of neck. 1 to 8 1/4 is the depth of scye. 1 to 16 is the length of natural waist, and a quater inch added for seam. Mark in one inch at natural waist and draw back lines. Find the line for width of back by marking down from 1 half depth of scye and half inch. Mark off width of back 7, plus 1/4 inch, and find page shoulder point by squaring up one-sixth of scale and coming out one inch.
Mark off back neck indicated on diagram by 1/6 N, or one-sixth of the total size of the neck. The shoulder line is marked a quarter inch above line, so as to allow for seam.
Join neck point and shoulder point. Template:Diagram colspan=2 Draw construction line from top of side-seam of 16. Mark off width of back on the waist line (11/2 inches), and form side seam by curving it about two inches from construction line. Then mark out from the back seam opposite, 8 1/4 half of the scale, in order to find the width of sidebody; continue to 2/3 for front of scye, and to 20 1/2 for full measure. This last quantity is half the breast and 2 1/2 inches. The neck point and over-shoulder quantities are obtained in the ordinary way. Template:Column break
[edit] THE GORGE
Is found by placing one arm of the square resting on 20 1/2 and the X; this latter point being fixed at one-third of the half neck from the neck point. The distance from the neck point to the bottom of the gorge is also one-third of the half neck.
The amount of suppression between the back and side body is 1 1/2 inches and, the same amount is taken out at the underarm seam as shown on the diagram. The amount allowed over the half waist for marking up is one inch ; it is unnecessary to allow more than that on account of a girdle 2 1/2 inches in width being worn round the waist.
[edit] THE PLASTRON,
Indicated by the white part of the diagram, is arranged so that the top buttons are one inch page from the neck points and shoulder points on each side, while the width at the waist is 2 3/4. The skirt is found by measuring the side body, forepart, and plastron, and then drawing a straight line. The run of the back skirt
