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Index:Narrative of a Voyage around the World - 1843.djvu

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Title Narrative of a voyage round the world : performed in Her Majesty's ship Sulphur, during the years 1836-1842, including details of the naval operations in China, from Dec. 1840, to Nov. 1841 ; published under the authority of the lords commissioners of the Admiralty, Volume 1
Author Captain Sir Edward Belcher RN
Year 1843
Publisher Henry Colburn
Location London
Source djvu
Progress To be proofread
Transclusion Index not transcluded or unreviewed
Volumes Volume 1 Volume 2
Pages (key to Page Status)
- - - - - Frontispiece Title page ii iii iv v vi vii viii ix x xi xii xiii xiv xv xvi xvii xviii xix xx xxi xxii xxiii xxiv xxv xxvi xxvii xxviii xxix xxx xxxi xxxii xxxiii xxxiv xxxv xxxvi xxxvii xxxviii xxxix xl 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 - - 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 - - 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 - - 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 - - 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 201 202 203 204 205 206 207 208 209 210 211 212 213 214 215 216 217 218 219 220 221 222 223 224 225 226 227 228 229 230 231 232 233 234 235 236 237 238 239 240 241 242 - - 243 244 245 246 247 248 249 250 251 252 253 254 255 256 257 258 259 260 261 262 263 264 265 266 267 268 269 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 280 281 282 283 284 285 286 287 288 - - 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307 308 309 310 311 312 313 314 315 316 317 318 319 320 321 322 323 324 325 326 327 328 329 330 331 332 333 334 335 336 337 338 339 340 341 342 343 344 345 346 347 348 349 350 351 352 - - 353 354 355 356 357 358 359 360 361 362 363 364 365 366 367 368 369 370 371 372 373 374 375 376 377 378 379 380 381 382 383 384 385 386 387 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 - - - -

CONTENTS

OF THE FIRST VOLUME.


Hydrographic Instructions
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Page xvii.

CHAPTER I.

Her Majesty's ship Sulphur quits England—Captain Beechey invalided—Is succeeded by Acting-Commander Kellett, who repairs to Panama to await instructions—Captain Belcher appointed to the command of the Expedition—Quits Falmouth in her Majesty's steamer Echo—Touches at Lisbon, and reaches Barbadoes and Jamaica—Is transferred to her Majesty's ship Forte, Commodore Pell, and thence to her Majesty's ship Madagascar, Commodore Sir J. Peyton—Is present at the blockade, &c., of Carthagena, and then embarks in her Majesty's ship Nimrod for Chagres—Passage up the river—Reaches Panama, and takes command of the Sulphur
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Page 1

CHAPTER II.

Assume the command of the Sulphur—Escort Consul's family to Chagres, and measure meridian distance by chronometers—Embark the ladies in her Majesty's ship Nimrod, and re-measure distance to Gorgona—Another attempt with the rockets from Caraveli, unsuccessful; Explosion bags from tree on Ato. Ormigero, successful—Measure distance to Panama—Power of Moteros in carrying burdens—Opinion on rocket measurement compared with chronometer—Present state of Panama—Move to Taboga—Leave Taboga—Visit Baia Honda—Magnetic Island (Pueblo Nueva)—Pass Gulf of Nicoya—Papagayo gusts—Arrive at Realejo—Obtain supplies—Port of Realejo—Quit Realejo by the Barra Falsa—Repair to Libertad—Visit San Salvador—Return and hear of fatal accident to coxswain—Surf—Difficulty of getting to ship—Succeed, and quit Libertad—Touch at Manzanilla (Port of Colima)—Reach San Blas—Visit Tepic—Quit San Blas for Sandwich Islands
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19

CHAPTER III.

Search for islands in the neighbourhood of Socorro—Clouds and Freshwater Island—Pass over position of Best's Island—Make Clarion's—Search for islands reported by Whalers between 130° and 13° W—Cross Blossom's track—Method of inserting track—Make Island of Maui—Singular cascades—Arrive at Oahu—Enter the port to refit—Question of forcible entry of "Clementine"—Appeal to the Government unsuccessful—Re-capture Clementine, and send her for the king—Missionary threat—Land the missionaries—Arrival of the French frigate Venus—Letter from the king—Arrival of the king's yacht—Royal reception—King consents to the missionaries remaining—Suspicions of foul play—Take leave of Venus, and quit Oahu—Arrival in the Bay of Atooi—Quit Hanalae—Present condition of Oahu—Views of the king—College at Maui—Starling despatched to Port Mulgrave—Touch at Rose Island—Arrive at Port Etches—Aurora observed—Visit the Russian settlement of Port Etches—Discover traces of Captain Portlock on Garden Island—Quit Port Etches—Extraordinary appearance of land near Cape Suckling—Anchor in Icy Buy, under Mount Elias—Point Riou not to be found—Icebergs—Arrival at Port Mulgrave—Rejoin Starling—Lip ornament—Quit Port Mulgrave
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
47

CHAPTER IV.

Norfolk Sound, Cape Edgecumbe—Sitka—Russian Governor Koupreanoff—Erect observatory—Establishment of Sitka—Small-pox among the Indians—Attention of the Governor—Entertainment to the natives—Probable cause of disagreements—Musical instruments—Slavery—Russian ball—Quit Sitka—Customary signals—Reach Woody Point—Anchor in Friendly Cove, Nootka—Arrival of Macquilla—Description of natives—Exhibition of magic-lanthorn and fireworks—A court fool—Sulkiness of Macquilla, on our refusal to trade—Description of natives—Quit Nootka, and proceed to San Francisco
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
91

CHAPTER V.

Changes since 1828—Result of revolution—Delawares—Visit Santa Clara—Decay of the mission—Examine Sacramento—Meet Indian hunters—Reach Point Victoria—Commence survey of river—Short of provisions—Grotesque dresses of Indians—Decrease of population—Animals—Climate—Productions—Scenery of river—Scarcity of provisions—Rejoin Starling—Insecure state of the country—Renegadoes—Quit San Francisco—Anchor at Monterey—State of its defences—Quit Monterey—Pass Cape San Lucas—Touch at Tres Marias—Reach San Blas
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
115

CHAPTER VI.

Official news of the accession of Queen Victoria—Arrival of Venus—Scurvy—Starling despatched to Panama for letters—Quit San Blas—Arrive at Acapulco—Entering by Boca Chica—Interview with the Governor—Erect observatory—Examine the port—Capacity—Best berth—Watering place—Present state of trade—Merchants deserting the city in consequence of custom-house regulations—Earthquakes from 1732 to present date—Fort San Carlos not affected by them—Period of rainy season—Distance from Mexico—Imports, exports, and general trade—Population and diseases—Military force—Execution of two murderers—Unsafe at night—Quit Acapulco—Touch at Guatulco, and fix position of Morro Ayuca—Cross Gulf of Tehuantepec—Views of volcanic peaks—Call at Sonsonate and Libertad—Volcano of Isalco active—Anchor at Realejo
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
141

CHAPTER VII.

Excursion to summit of Viejo Volcano—San Antonio—Mr. Bridge, its proprietor—Chinandega—Swarm of musquitoes—Moyotepita—Pine range—Viejo summit—Palm toddy—Return to San Antonio—Move on to Chichigalpa—Posoltega—City of Leon—Its Cathedral and College—Reach Piedra Gorda on the lake of Managua—Attempt to visit Momotombita relinquished—Stormy breezes—Reach Nagarote—Hospitality—Move on to Matiares—Productions—Cholera, &c.—Reported remains of causeway to Momotombita—Reach Managua—Brasil wood noticed—Sleep at Managua—Move on to Tepitapa—The falls—Sulphur springs—Return to Managua—Matiares—Nagarote—Leon and San Antonio—Rejoin Sulphur, and quit Realejo to examine Gulf of Papagayo—Bay of Salinas—Murciellagos islands examined—Return to Realejo—Arrival of Starling with letters—Quit Realejo—Search for and find Culebra—Survey it—Reach island of Cocos—Tedious passage—Pass through Gallapagos, and reach Callao
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
159

CHAPTER VIII.

Naval forces at Callao—Refit the Sulphur—Arrival of Admiral Ross—Periodical observations—Visit the coast below Callao—Cerro Azul—Port and town of Chilca—Disturbances in Peru—Arrival of the Chilians—Troops land at Ancon—Engagement near Lima—Chilian forces enter the city—Ladies witness the action—The Sulphur quits Callao—Visits the Ilormigas, Payta, Guayaquil
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
195

CHAPTER IX.

Proceed to Guayaquil in gig—Ladies of Guayaquil—General Wright's excursion to Bodegas—General Flores—Batahoya, Bull fight—Alligators—Balsas, Canoa de pieca—Samborodon—Sulphur drops down the river—H. M. S. Harrier calls at Puna—Capture of an alligator—Handsome conduct of Government of Equador—Return to Panama—Visit Yslas del Rey—Witness pearl-diving operations—Arrival of despatches—Sail for Realejo—Reach Realejo
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
209

CHAPTER X.

Realejo—Termination of the rainy season—Quit Realejo and repair to Chicarene—Gulf of Fonseca—Trip to San Miguel—Agua Frio—Reach San Miguel—Start to visit the Volcano—Demur at Chinameca—Return in disgust to San Miguel—Quit, and visit Moncagua—Breakfast—Arrive at San Miguel—The fair—Method of transacting business—Honourable conduct of natives—Run to Realejo—Meet H. M. S. Imogene—Return to Conchagua—Port of San Carlos—Ascend Amapala—Conchagua, &c.—Pitch observatory under Conseguina—Start with Starling and boats to examine Estero Real—Result—Swarms of Mosquitoes—Canal question—Volcano of Conseguina—Desolation caused by its eruption—Return to Realejo—A boat upset in a squall—Mr. Speck and a seaman drowned—Sail for the Gulf of Nicoya
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
225

CHAPTER XI.

Survey of the Gulf of Nicoya—Its capabilities—Examine Bay of Honda—Quibo—Receive despatches at Panama—Future movements—Sail for the Sandwich Islands—Revisit Cocos Island—Examine Clipperton Rock—Anchor at Honolulu—Disposition of the king towards us—Funeral of Kinau, the King's aunt—The king and suite visit the Sulphur—Missionary influence and operations—The islands less frequented—The Orphan School—Rapid decrease of the population—Exports and productions
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
247

CHAPTER XII.

Quit Honululu—Touch at Atooi—Signs of improvement—Sail for the north—Great numbers of marine animals—Touch at Kodiack—Natives—Observations—Visit Sitka—Enter the Columbia River—Present state of Astoria—Ascend the river to Fort Vancouver—Jealousy of the Indians respecting their dead—The establishment at Fort Vancouver—Colonizing the Wallamette—Relations with America and Russia—Great size of the forest trees—The Hudson's Bay trading establishment—Wreck of a Japanese junk—The crew seized by the natives—Other similar occurrences—Character of the Indians who compress the head—Influence on the mind—Sail for California—Settlement of Ross—Bodega—Unsafe anchorage—San Francisco—Sailing directions for the port
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
279

CHAPTER XIII.

Arrive at Monterey—Move on to St. Barbara—Kelp line—St. Barbara—Move on to San Pedro—Starling despatched to San Buenaventura—San Pedro—Touch at San Juan—Starling despatched to examine St. Catalina—Anchor at San Diego—Description of the port—Alarm from Indians—Defenceless state—Country wines made at San Luis Rey—Quit San Diego—Pass Cape Colnett and enter San Quentin, or Puerto de las Virgines—Touch at San Bartolomé—Enter and anchor in Gulf of Magdalena—Fossils—Esteros—Extent of Esteros—Probable connexion with La Paz—Adapted for naval rendezvous—Cape San Lucas Productions—Reach San Blas—Quit, and anchor at Mazatlan—Return to San Blas
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
319

CHAPTER XIV.

Quit San Blas—Island of Socorro—Goats—Does not afford water—Braithwaite's Bay—Clarion Island—Lose anchor—Botany—Fish—No water—Irish eagle shot—False alarm of breakers—Make the Marquesas—Enter port Anna Maria—Nuhuhiva—Transactions—War in Tabu—Interference to stop hostilities—Unsuccessful—Compact of safety to foreign residents—Signed by king and prime ministers—Quit Nuhuhiva
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
345

IN THE HYDROGRAPHIC INSTRUCTIONS:
Page xxiv. line 6, for which read winch.