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The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu
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Title
The practical designer
, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses, with grading and special measurements, according to the most approved & up-to-date method; specially designed for self instruction
Author
Rosenfeld, Isidor
Year
1911
Publisher
The Leading Pattern Co.
Location
New York
Source
djvu
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Proofread—All pages of the work proper are proofread, but not all are validated
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INDEX.
PAGE.
Title
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
1
Preface
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
2
Introduction
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
3
The Grammar of Designing and Garment Cutting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
4–5
The Measure of a Woman by Proportion
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
6
A Rule of Proportions
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
6
How to Find the Height
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
7
The System of Heights
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
8
Proportional Height Scale
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
9
Proportional Height Scale Table
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
10
The Study on Width Proportions
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
11
The System of Width Proportions
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
13
A Test of Systematical Knowledge
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
13–11
The System of Practical Value
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
15–16
Proportional Measurements for Women's Garments
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
17
Scale Method on Drafting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
17
How to Measure for a Regular Size
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
18
Lesson 1.
On Drafting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
19–20
Lesson 2.
On Drafting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
31–22
Lesson 3.
A Tight-fitting Garment
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
33–24
Lesson 4.
A Tight-fitting Jacket with Two Darts
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
25–26
Lesson 5.
A Tight-fitting French Seam Fitting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
27–28
Lesson 6.
14-Gored Tight-fitting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
39–30
Lesson 7.
18-Gored Tight-fitting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
31–32
Lesson 8.
Half-fitting Garment
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
33–34
Lesson 9.
Half-fitting French Seam, Broad Back
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
35–36
Lesson 10.
Half-fitting French Seam, Narrow Back
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
37-38
Lesson 11.
A Lost Dart in Front
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
39–40
Lesson 12.
Half-fitting Jacket with Dart on Top
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
39–40
Lesson 13.
Dressing Sack with Shawl Collar
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
41–42
Lesson 14.
Eton Coats
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
43–44
Lesson 15.
Eton with a Dart in Front
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
45–46
Lesson 16.
Eton with a French Seam
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
45–46
Lesson 17.
Eton Front with a Dart on Top
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
47–48
Lesson 18.
Blouse
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
48–50
Lesson 19.
Tunic Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
49–50
Lesson 20.
Butterfly Sleeve Draft
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
51–52–53
Lesson 21.
Kimono Sleeve in One Piece
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
52–54
Lesson 22.
Butterfly with Under Arm Sleeve
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
55–56
Lesson 23.
A Raglan Style Butterfly Sleeve
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
55–56
Lesson 24.
To Cut a Yoke
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
57
Lesson 25.
Long Half-fitting Hipless Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
58–60
Lesson 26.
Short Box Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
61–62
Lesson 27.
Double-breasted Automobile Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
63–64
Lesson 28.
Raglan Top Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
65–66
Lesson 29.
Inverness Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
67–68
Lesson 30.
Butterfly Sleeve Cape
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
69–70
Lesson 31.
Opera Cloak
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
71–72
Lesson 32.
Short Two-piece Cape
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
73–74
Lesson 33.
A Circle Cape
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
74–75
Lesson 34.
A Circle Cape, with Shoulder Dart
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
76–77
Lesson 35.
Long Shoulder Seam Cape
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
77–78
PAGE.
Lesson 36.
Single-breasted Riding Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
79–82
Lesson 37.
Cut-away Front Riding Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
83–84
Lesson 38.
Double-breasted Riding Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
85–86
Lesson 39.
A Closed Back and Closed Front
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
87–88
Lesson 40.
Single-breasted Vest
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
89–90
Lesson 41.
Double-breasted Vest
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
91
Lesson 42.
To Draft All Kinds of Sizes
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
92–94
The Study of the Stout Form
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
95
Lesson 43.
Box Coat' for a Stout Form
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
96–97–98
Lesson 44.
To Cut Out the Pattern for the Stout
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
99
Lesson 45.
Hood
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
100–101
Lesson 46.
Sailor Collar
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
101–102
Lesson 47.
Shield for a Sailor Collar
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
103–104
Lesson 48.
Standing Collars
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
105
Lesson 49.
Lap Over Collars
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
105–106
Lesson 50.
Storm Collar
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
106
Lesson 51.
Automobile Collar
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
107–108
Lesson 52.
Flat or Dutch Collar
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
107–108
Lesson 54.
First Draft on Sleeves without Fullness
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
109–110
Lesson 55.
Sleeve with Some Fullness
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
111–112
Lesson 56.
Sleeve with All Fullness
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
113
Lesson 57.
One-piece Sleeve with Fullness on the Bottom
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
114
Lesson 58.
Sleeve with Fullness on Top
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
115
Lesson 59.
One-piece Dress Sleeve
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
115–116
Lesson 60.
Dart Sleeve
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
117
Lesson 62.
Raglan Sleeve with a Dart on Shoulder
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
118–119
Lesson 61.
Raglan Sleeve
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
118–119
SKIRTS.
Lesson 63.
Beginning Skirts
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
121–133
Lesson 64.
5-gored Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
133–124
Lesson 65.
7-gored Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
125–126
Lesson 66.
9-gored Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
127–128
Lesson 67.
11-gored Flare Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
129–130
Lesson 68.
15-gored Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
131–132
Lesson 69.
Empire or Girdle Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
133–134
Lesson 70.
Girdle Belt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
133–134
Lesson 71.
Flounce Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
135–136
Lesson 72.
Circle Flounce Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
137–138
Lesson 73.
Circle Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
139–140
Lesson 74.
Princess Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
141–143
Lesson 75.
Divided Riding Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
143–144
Lesson 76.
Side Saddle Riding Skirt, Front Part
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
145–146
Lesson 77.
Side Saddle, Back Part
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
145–147
Lesson 78.
Bloomers, Front Part
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
148–149
Lesson 79.
Bloomers, Back Part
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
148–150
Lesson 80.
Riding Breeches, Front Part
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
150–151
Lesson 81.
Breeches, Back Part
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
150–151
Lesson 82.
Pantaloons, Front Part
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
152–153
Lesson 83.
Pantaloons, Back Part
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
152–153
Lesson 84.
Stout Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
154–155
Lesson 85.
A Very Stout Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
154–155
Lesson 86.
Skirt with Seams Allowed
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
156–157
Lesson 87.
Skirt with More or Less Fullness
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
157–158
Proportional Stout Measurements for Women
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
159
Short and Stout Proportions
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
159
PAGE
MISSES' SIZES.
Proportional Measurements for Misses
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
160
Lesson 88.
Misses' French Seam, Tight- fitting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
161–162
Lesson 89.
Misses, Half-fitting Jacket
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
163–164
Lesson 90.
Misses' Short Box Coats
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
165–666
Lesson 91.
Misses' Size Sleeve
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
167–168
Lesson 92,
Misses' Size 5-gored Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
169–170
Extra Stout Proportions for Women
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
171
Children's Stout Measurements
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
171
JUNIOR SIZES.
Proportional Measurements for Juniors
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
173
Lesson 93.
Junior Box Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
173–174
Lesson 94.
Juniors' Half-fitting French Seam Jackets
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
175–177
Lesson 95.
Juniors' Long Capes
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
177–178
Lesson 96.
A Yoke for the Box Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
179–180
Lesson 97.
A Junior Sleeve
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
181–182
Lesson 98.
Juniors' 5-gored Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
183–184
Lesson 99.
Juniors' Circle Skirts
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
185
CHILDREN'S SIZES.
Proportional Measurements for Children
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
186
Lesson 100.
Child's Reefer Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
187–188
Lesson 101.
Child's Box Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
189–190
Lesson 102.
Child's French Seam Coat
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
191–193
Lesson 103.
Child's Sleeve without Any Fullness
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
194
Lesson 104.
Child's Short Two-piece Cape
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
195–196
Lesson 105.
Child's One-piece Cape
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
117–198
Lesson 106.
Child's One-piece Skirt
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
199–200
Lesson 107.
Child's One-piece Sleeve, Fullness on Bottom
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
201
GRADING FOR ALL SIZES.
Interest of Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
203
Corrections on Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
204
Manual of Grading Sizes
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
204
Lesson 108.
Blouse Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
205–206
Lesson 109.
Box Coat Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
207–208
Lesson 110,
Long Cape Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
209–210
Lesson 111.
Half-fitting Jacket Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
211–212
Lesson 112.
Tight-fitting Jacket Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
213–214
Lesson 113.
Tight-fitted French Seam Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
215–216
Lesson 114.
Two-piece Sleeve Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
217–218
Lesson 115.
One-piece Sleeve Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
219
Lesson 116.
Butterfly Blouse Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
220
Lesson 117.
How to Grade the Sailor Collar
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
221–222
Lesson 118.
Standing Collar Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
221–222
Lesson 119.
Flat Collar Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
221–222
Lesson 120.
5-gored Skirt Grading, Size 36
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
223–224
Lesson 121.
Misses' Blouse Grading, Size 16
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
225–226
Lesson 122.
Misses' Half-fitting Jacket Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
227–228
Lesson 123.
Misses' French Seam Tight-fitting Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
229–230
Lesson 124.
Misses' Sleeve Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
231
Lesson 125.
Misses' Circle Skirt Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
232
PAGE.
Lesson 126.
Misses' 5-gored Skirt Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
233–234
Lesson 127.
Junior Blouse Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
235–236
Lesson 128.
Junior Box Coat Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
237–238
Lesson 129.
Junior Long Cape Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
239–240
Lesson 130.
Junior Two-piece Sleeve Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
241
Lesson 131.
Junior One-piece Sleeve Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
242
Lesson 132.
Junior 5-gored Skirt Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
243
Lesson 133.
Junior Circle Skirt Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
244
SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS.
The Problem of Special Garment Cutting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
245–246
The Right Way of Taking Special Measurements
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
247–248
Lesson 137.
First Draft on Special Measurements
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
249–250
Lesson 138.
Second Draft on Special Measurements
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
251–253
Lesson 139.
Third Lesson on Special Measurements
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
253
Lesson 140.
Special Measurements without Seams
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
254–256
Study of Special Garment Cutting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
257
Lesson 141.
Special Sleeve
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
258
Importance of Fitting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
259
SHIRT WAISTS AND DRESSES.
Lesson 142.
Shirt Waist
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
261–263
Lesson 143.
Shirt Waist with a Side Body
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
263–364
Lesson 144.
Lining with Two Dart in Front
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
265–266
Lesson 145.
Princess Dress
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
267–268
Lesson 146.
To Allow Pleats on a Blouse
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
269–270
Lesson 147.
Pleats on a Blouse with a Yoke
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
269–270
Lesson 148.
Crinoline Cuff
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
271–272
Lesson 149.
To Draft a Cuff
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
273
Lesson 150.
High Standing Collar
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
274
Lesson 151.
Misses' Blouse Drafting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
275–376
Lesson 152.
Junior Blouse Blouse Drafting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
277–278
Lesson 153.
Child's Princess Dress
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
279–280
Lesson 154.
Child's Sleeve Drafting
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
281
Lesson 155.
Grading Rules for Waists and Dresses
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
283
Lesson 156.
Child's Blouse Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
283–284
Lesson 157.
Child's Box Coat Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
285–286
Lesson 158.
Child's Two-piece Sleeve Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
287
Lesson 159.
Child's One-piece Skirt Grading
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
288
Lesson 160.
Table of All Kinds of Divisions
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
289–290
Lesson 161.
Systematical Bust Sketching
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
291–392
Lesson 162.
Systematical Back Sketching
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
293
Lesson 163.
Systematical Skirt Sketching
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
294
Lesson 164.
Philosophy of Corrections
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
295-301
Rules to Be Remembered
................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
303
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