Journal of the Proceedings of a party of Officers and men; at Browne Mount, Cockburn Sound, for the purpose of exploring the Canning River and the intervening country, as respects the soil, &c.
June 26th.—Landed at 10, a.m. and proceeded in an E. by S. direction; the first mile was a perfect sandy surface; we then came on to a dark red soil, which extended about the same distance, and then had the sand again mixed with dark earth, which continued without any perceptible change to the end of this day's journey, about nine miles from the place of debarkation; but to accomplish this
distance, we travelled over about twelve miles of country, with generally an undulating grassy surface, thinly covered with trees of various dimensions, and of the same kind as those on the coast. About six miles from the place we landed, we passed to the southward of a lagoon of fresh water; and where we bivouaced for the night there was another extensive lake, and we pitched our tents on the rising ground near its S.E. extremity.
June 27th.—At 8, a.m. resumed our journey, and after we had advanced about two miles, we passed to the southward of a deep and rather extensive swamp; and about the same distance further on, we passed through another, which was neither so deep nor extensive as the first. Continued on again three miles, and then we crossed a stream about six or seven feet wide; and a mile further another, about the same width, both running to the southward in a parallel direction. Nine miles from the lake we left in the morning, an agreeable and sudden change took place in the scenery; we had almost imperceptibly ascended an eminence commanding an extensive view of a vast plain, bounded to the eastward by a range of majestic mountains, an opening in which being observed, we crossed the plain a little to the eastward of our destined course, and in a distance of about ten miles we entered between two ranges, and discovered the Canning River, rushing over its rocky bed with considerable impetuosity and running to the northward. We bivouaced on a small island formed by a stream from the river curving to the eastward and re-uniting a little lower down. Respecting the nature and quality of the soil, &c. passed through to day, the first particular change was observed soon after we entered the plain, when we found a yellow marl; of a nature I think well calculated for making bricks; this extended about a mile; it then continued sandy with gravelly patches, till approaching the base of the mountains, where the surface is entirely covered with coarse gravel and loose stones.
June 28th.—At 7, a.m. ascended the summit of a mountain 1000 feet in height, for the purpose of obtaining a more extensive view of the surrounding country, but the density of the atmosphere was so great, that objects were only visible a few miles to the westward, where little of interest presented itself; and to the eastward nothing was discernible but a succession of lofty mountains, covered with trees. At nine, descended to the river, and passed to the left bank, and in our progress along its course to the northward, we were soon gratified by finding good red soil, which continued (with an occasional mixture of sand) for about five miles. The river then divided into two branches, and the ground became swampy; crossed the western and lesser stream, and endeavoured to follow the course of the principal one, which tended more to the northward, but we were shortly interrupted by a deep, reedy swamp, which forced us to pursue our course more to the westward, and in doing which we lost sight of the river altogether; but after a few miles' walk over good soil and through several small swamps, we found it again, but so much reduced by passing through and inundating an extent of low marshy ground, that we were induced to cross to the northward, and proceed direct to the mountains, two miles distant, to be fully satisfied that it had not branched off in that direction. But observing, from the top of a hill, water N. by W. advanced in that bearing about 4 miles, over a sandy surface, and bivouaced on rising ground in the vicinity of a small sheet of water, after a journey of eighteen miles, but not more than twelve distant from the ravines left in the morning.
June 29th.—At 8 a.m. proceeded in a W.N.W. direction, and in half an hour fell in with the river about sixteen feet broad; we crossed over by a fallen tree, and pursued our Journey down the left bank, the river gradually widening as we descended, and presenting on each side, for a space of ten miles, the richest verdure and most luxurious vegetation. The ground then became marshy, and the river more irregular in its course; we passed through a large swamp, and bivouaced on an elevated sandy spot convenient to the river, where it was nearly a mile broad, and the water brackish.
June 30th.—At 8 a.m. continued our journey, following the course of the river through a number of small swamps, and several streams of good water, and after a walk of about eight miles over a sandy soil, we reached its junction with the Swan, at Melville Water: proceeded through the same description of country to the military post at the mouth of the latter river, where we met with the kindest reception, and most hospitable entertainment from Captain Irwin and the Officers of the detachment of the 63d regiment. Having traversed the country from Cockburn Sound to the Darling Mountains, and followed, with little interruption, the course of the Canning River from near the source to the mouth, the general impression resulting from a minute observation as a hurried journey would permit, is, that with trifling exceptions, the soil above the salt water is of a quality suited for all the purposes of agriculture. I cannot conclude these remarks without observing, that during this journey of 100 miles or upwards, not a native was seen, which is pretty conclusive that they are not very numerous. But there can be little doubt we passed close to some of them, as we saw several of their wigwams, and many traces of themselves; and it is more than probable they did not like our appearance, and avoided us; and from the nature of the country, and their superior power of vision, they have easy means of concealment.
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