Beauplan.
Guests eats according as the Sauce pleases him, which are never any more than those four we have mention'd, besides the several sorts of Meat. They serve up Beef, Mutton, Voal and Pullets without Sauce, well season'd according to the Custom of that Country, with Salt and Spice, and so well that they have no need of Salts, which are therefore never us'd. As soon as one Dish is empty'd, they set on another, as Salt-Cabbidg, with a piece of Salt-Pork, or Millet, or boil'd Dough (I suppose Dumplins) which they eat as a great Dainty. They make another sort of Sauce of a Root they call Cresen, which they bruise and steep in Vinegar, and has the relish of delicious excellent Mustard, fit to eat either with fresh or salt Beef, and with all sorts of Fish.
The first Course being thus over, and the Dishes empty'd, most of the Meat not eaten by the Guests but their Servants, as we shall mention more fully hereafter, they take off, and not only the Dishes, but the first Table-cloth with them, and then comes the second Course of Roastmeat, as Beef, Mutton and Veal, cut into large pieces; Capons, Chickens, Pullets, Goslins, Ducks, Hares, Venison, Kid, Wild-Boar, and all other sorts, as Partridges, Quails, Larks, and other small Birds, whereof they have great plenty. As for Pigeons they never use them, because they are rare in that Country, as are Rabbets, and Woodcocks. All these sorts are serv'd up without any order, but confusely, intermixing them with several Salads of divers sorts. This second Course is attended by an Entermess of several sorts of strain'd Pease with a good piece of Bacon, whereof every one takes part, and cuts it into Bits, which they eat with a Spoon dipping in the Soupe, and look upon this as a Dainty Dish, swallowing it without chewing; and the value they put upon it is so great, that they think they have not been well treated if it be wanting; as also if they have not Millet butter'd, and husk'd Barley dress'd in the same manner, which they call Cacha, and the Dutch, Gru. They have also bits of Paste like Macaroons fry'd in Butter full of Cheese; and another sort made of Buck-wheat, like very thin Cakes, which they dip in the Juice of white Poppy-seed, which I suppose they eat to fill them up quite, and dispose them to sleep.
This second Course being taken away, as the first was, the Desert is brought in, such as the season and opportunity will allow of, as Cream, Cheese, and many other things I cannot at present call to mind. All which Dishes and Dainfies are ao far inferiour to the meanest of ours, that I should value one French Dish above ten of theirs. But for Fish they understand it wonderful well, for they not only have that which is very good, but dress it to perfection, and give it so fine a relish that it will raise a decay'd Appetite, wherein they exceed all other Nations, not only in my opinion, but by the general consent of all French and other strangers, who have been entertain'd by them. Nor is it any wonder, for they spare neither Wine, nor Oil, Spice, Currants, Pine Apple-kernels, nor any other thing which with their Ingenuity can contribute to season it well. During Dinner they drink but little, to lay a good foundation, and what they drink is Beer out of long round Glasses as big as a French Pot, into which they put tosted Bread sprinkled with Oil. It was above mention'd, that tho the Dishes of first and second Course were taken from Table almost empty, yet the Guests had eaten the least part; which is very true, for it is to be obsery'd that every one of those that is at Table has one or two Servants, and when they would have clean Plates, they fill their foul 'ones with what is next them, and give them heap'd to the said Servants, who being well provided, get together to devour it in some corner of the Room, as it were by stealth, making an undecent noise, which yet their Masters do not hinder, but cause it by supporting such a Custom.
After the Masters have eaten heartily at Table without much drinking, and the Servants gormandiz'd what their Masters have given them in the corners of the Hall, then they begin in earnest to drink one anothers Healths, not in Beer as before, but in their Wine, which is the best and noblest in the World; and tho it be white, yet it makes their Faces red, and enhances the expence of their Treats, for they consume abundance, and it costs four Livres a Pot, paying so much rather for its goodness than scarcity. When one has drank his Friends health, he gives him the same Glass of that Wine that he may pledg him, which they do easily without the help of Servants, the Tables being cover'd with great Pots of Wine and Glasses, which are as soon fill'd as empty'd: so that an hour or two after this pleasant work begins, it is no less pleasant to see the vast number of Glasses every one has before him, to such a prodigious quantity that it is impossible he shoulddrink
