There are 68 warp and only 20 weft threads to the inch, so that the warp really forms the surface of the cloth, and as at one edge the warps are 6 black, 12 red, 2 black, 2 white, 2 black, 2 red, a prettily striped selvedge results. The two coloured selvedges are joined by a seam so as to form a stripe down the centres of the front and back of the garment, the neck opening being decorated by a yellow and red plait made of four strands. The ornamental border at the waist (Fig. 8, p. 8) although of a type easily produced by weaving, proves upon examination to have been worked by hand on the finished cloth. It is in red with the exception of two rows of yellow stitchery (Fig. 8a). At the bottom edge the warp ends have been grouped in bunches of about 14 so as to form a tasselled fringe (Fig. 8b), each group being held firmly by a knotted stitch, the method of working which can be easily seen in the diagram. A buttonhole stitching in white is used to join the sides of the garment.
GS 58. Fig. 9 (p. 8) represents a legging, usually worn below their short skirt by women of the Taung-yo tribe. It consists of an oblong piece of buff-coloured cotton cloth, 38.5 cm. by 36 cm., joined by a run and fell seam. Two pieces of cloth are applied as decoration, a large square piece of imported black sateen and an oblong of red flannel. Both are sewn down by a running stitch in red, and red cords are attached at the top and bottom for use as fastenings.
The Yang Lam Garments.
The Yang Lam are a division of the Karenni tribes and inhabit the undulating plain between Möng Nai and South Hsenwi in the Southern Shan States. Their language is quite distinct from Shan, and although they do not admit any connection, there is evidence of their relationship with the Wa, a very wild hill tribe.
According to Mr. Stirling,[1] the Yang Lam women wear a closed skirt of black or dark blue cloth, belted round the waist and reaching to the ankles; and a jacket of the same colour, sometimes ornamented with embroidery and beads, GS 63 (Fig. 10). The dress is modest and becoming, an unusual feature in the fashions of the hill tribes. The men wear Shan dress.
GS 63 (Figs. 10 and 11). The maiden's coat, belonging to a member of the Yang Lam or Black Karen tribe, depicted in Figure 10, (p. 10) is a particularly well made garment, which exhibits a varied and yet restrained use of decorative stitchery as
- ↑ Upper Burma Gazetteer.
