comfortable in wear. The red, light blue, indigo and black stripes, which run longitudinally (Fig. 24) are produced by coloured warp threads which form the surface of the cloth and produce a poplin weave. At one end of the girdle the fringe is 13 cm. (5in.) in length, and is formed by twisting two groups of warp ends in opposite directions, and then together. At the other end a similar fringe, 37 cm. (about 14½in.) is further embellished by the addition of a tassel made up of a number of variously coloured pieces of cloth inserted in an enamelled silver top. Each piece of cloth is doubled and increases in width from the silver cap to the end where it is folded to form a point, the whole making a kind of long tab like a tie-end.
- Head-Dresses.
GS 86 (Fig. 25). The Shan head-dress illustrated in Figure 25, (p. 31) is an exceedingly handsome example of decoration produced by the combination of pattern weaving and embroidery. The strip of black cloth is 140 cm. by 31.5 cm., exclusive of the fringed warp-ends, which measures about 15 cm. each. The all-overpattern consists of stripes of varying widths; some, such as at c, are produced entirely by coloured wefts, the different shuttle threads being carried loosely along the edge of the cloth when not required.
The three remaining stripes, d, e, f, (Fig. 25) vary in width, and are each a mixture of brocade weaving and embroidery. The portion of Figure 25 to the right of the dotted line xx1 shews how much of the pattern in each of these stripes is produced by the coloured weft. To the left of xx, the embroidered ornament, added afterwards, is shewn. Three colours are used in rotation in working the embroidery motives, green, white and orange. The woven design in the broadest stripe is red, in the narrower one, white, an alternately light and dark effect is thus obtained. The
