VESTMENTS
389
VESTMENTS
was completed in this period includes five essential of the Mass, as the pluvial, the liturgical cappa, took
elements: definitive separation of the vestments worn its place at the other functions. Another, and new
at the liturgical offices from all non-liturgical cloth
ing, and especially from that used in secular life; sepa-
ration and definitive settlement of certain articles of
dress; introduction of the sacmlcs (lislinclira; employ-
ment of the vestments definitely assigned for use at
the Divine offices with retention of the ordinary cloth-
ing under these vestments;
lastly, introduction of a spe-
cial blessing for the vest-
ments intended for liturgical
use. It cannot be decided
positively how fax this de-
velopment was consum-
mated by means of nici^
custom, and how far !•
positive ecclesiastical legi-1
tion. However, it may 1
taken as certain that tli
growth of a priestly dre.-is
did not proceed everywhere
at an equal pace, and it is
very probable that this de-
velopment was complctril
earUer and more rapidly in
the East than in Western
Europe, and that the Orient
was the prototype for West-
ern Europe, at least with re-
gard to certain garments
(stole and pallium). It was
of much importance fort lie
forming of a special priest 1>
costume differing from the
garments ordinarily worn,
that the pcenula (cloak or
mantle) and the long tunic,
which came into universal
use in the third century and
were also worn in the offices
of the Church, were grail-
ually replaced in daily life
from about the sixth cen-
tury, by the shorter tunic
and the more convenient
open mantle. The Church
did not join in this return to
the former fashion, but re-
tained the existing costume,
which was more suitable to
the dignity of the Divine
offices; this fact in itself was
the beginning of a rubrically
distinct priestly dress. As
regards the influence of
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vestment is the surplice, which, appearing in the
course of the eleventh century, began in steadily in-
creasing measure to replace the alb. In the third
period, above all, the pontifical dress received its
definitive form. This was the natural result of the
enormous advance in the secular importance of the
hishnjis and of their position
in public life, whirh occurred
in the Carloviiigian era.
Vestments such ;us sandals
anil stockings became exclu-
sively episcopal ornaments.
New pontifical vestments
were the gloves, the suc-
cinctorium, and the mitre,
to which was added among
the German bishops the
rational, an imitation of the
p:illiuin. When Amalarius
wrote his treatise, "De
ulliriis ecclesiasticis", at the
liegiuning of the ninth cen-
tury, eleven garments were
iiu-iuiled among liturgical
vistiuents: amice, alb, cin-
Kuluin. maniple, stole, tunic,
ilahiiatic, chasuble, sandals,
IKiiiiifical stockings, and the
jiallium. In the time of
Innoient III the liturgical
M'stnirnts numbered seven-
Inn, till- faiion, that is the
]Ki|i:il anure, not being in-
cluded among these. Prot-
estants have claimed that
the development of the
prichtly dress in the third
piri.iil wiis due to the for-
mulation of the dogma of
Transubstantiation. How-
ever, this is entirely incor-
rect. As early as about 800,
therefore, before the discus-
sion concerning the Eucha-
rist, the liturgical dress was
(■om])lete in all its essential
l)arts. The introduction of
the iiluvial, or cope, and the
surplice .arose from the de-
sire to be more comfortable;
but the de\elopment of the
pontifical costume was biised,
as has been said, upon the
important secular position
which the bishops enjoyed
from the Carlovingian era.
T, - iU 1 I 1 St. Eugenius of Toledo, by Theotocopuu
Rome upon the development showing Vestments of a Latin Primate in the XVI Centur.v
of a liturgical costume in
other parts of Western Europe, such influence can- which naturally brought about a corresponding
not have been of much importance outside of Italy enrichment of the pontifical dress. The doctrine of
before the eighth century. The case, however, was Transubstantiation exerted no influence upon the
different in the eighth century, and as early as the
ninth century Roman custom was authoritative
nearly everywhere in the West . The great simplicity
of the liturgical dress in the pre-Carlovingian era is
very striking. The dignified shape with many folds
development of the liturgical vestments.
In the Greek Rite — the development of the litur- gical dress in the other Oriental Rites caimot be traced in this period — only the pontifical dress was enriched. The new pontifical vestments were: the
that is constantly met in the sculpture and pictures of sakkos, still a patriarchal vestment; the epimani
that era did not in fact require decor.ation, which at
that time w.as limited almost exclusively to the clavi,
the red ornamental trimming of the dalmatic.
The third period, extending from the ninth to the thirteenth centur>', completed the development of the priestly vestments in A\'estern Europe. It cea.sed to be customar>' for the acolytes to wear the cha,suble, stole, and maniple. The tunide became the cu.s- toinary vestment of the subdeaeims; the chasuble
kien; the epigonation, in so far as this vestment had
not already been introduced before the ninth cen-
tury; the epigonation first had the form of a
handkerchief and w.as called enchiriqn (hand-cloth,
handkerchief), it wjus not named epigonation until
the twelfth century.
In the fourth period, from the thirteenth centurj' to the present time, the historj- of the liturgical vest- ments is almost entirely the history of their rubrical
was the vestment exclusively worn at the celebration evolution, their adornment with embroiderj- ami or-
