covered, if possible, with a thin layer of silver-sand. It should be
pressed firmly, watered with a fine rose, and allowed to drain for an
hour. The cuttings should then be dibbled into the boxes in rows,
just clear, the soil being gently pressed around each. Short stout
shoots which arise directly from the rootstock make the best cuttings.
In their absence cuttings from the stems are used. The ideal length
for a cutting is about 212 in. Cut the stem squarely with a sharp knife
just below a joint, and remove the lower leaves. Insert as soon as
possible and water with a fine rose to settle the soil around them.
The soil is not allowed to become dry. The cuttings should be
looked over daily, decayed leaves removed, and surplus moisture,
condensed on the glass, wiped away. Ventilate gradually as rooting
takes place, and, when well rooted, transfer singly into pots about
3 in. in diameter, using as compost a mixture of two parts loam,
one part leaf-mould, half a part coarse silver-sand, and a gallon of
vegetable ash to every bushel of the compost. Return to the
frames and keep close for a few days to allow the little plants to
recover from the check occasioned by the potting. Ventilation
should be gradually increased until the plants are able to bear full
exposure during favourable weather, without showing signs of
distress by flagging. They should be carefully protected at all
times from cold cutting winds. In April, should the weather be
favourable, the plants may be transferred to the borders, especially
should the positions happen to be sheltered. If this is not practicable,
another shift will be necessary, this time into pots about 5 in. in
diameter. The soil should be similar to that advised for the previous
potting, enriched with half a part of horse manure that has been
thoroughly sweetened by exposure. Plant out during May. All
borders intended for chrysanthemums should be well dug and
manured. The strong growing kinds should be planted about 3 ft.
apart, the smaller kinds being allowed a little less room.
In the summer, water in dry weather, syringe in the evenings whenever practicable, and keep the borders free from weeds by surface hoeings; stake and tie the plants as required, and pinch out the tips of the shoots until they have become sufficiently bushy by frequent branching. Pinching should not be practised later than the end of June.
Pot Plants for Decoration.—A list of a few of the thousands of varieties suitable for this purpose would be out of place here; new varieties are being constantly introduced, for these the reader is referred to trade catalogues.
The most important considerations for the beginner are (a) the choice of colours; (b) the types of flowers; (c) the height and habits of the varieties. Generally speaking, very tall varieties and those of weak growth and delicate constitutions should be avoided. The majority of the varieties listed for exhibition purposes are also suitable for decoration, especially the Japanese kinds. Propagation and early culture are substantially as for border plants.
As soon as the 5-in. pots are filled with roots, no time should be lost in giving them the final shift. Eight-in. pots are large enough for the general stock, but very strong growers may be given a larger size. The soil, prepared a fortnight in advance, should consist of four parts fibrous loam, one part leaf-mould, one part horse manure prepared as advised above, half a part coarse silver-sand, half a part of vegetable ash, and a quart of bone-meal or a sprinkling of basic slag to every bushel of the mixture. Mix thoroughly and turn over at intervals of three or four days. Pot firmly, working the soil well around the roots with a lath. The main stake for the support of the plant should now be given; other and smaller stakes may later be necessary when the plants are grown in a bushy form, but their number should not be overdone. The stakes should be as few as possible consistent with the safety of the shoots, which should be looped up loosely and neatly. The plants should be placed in their summer quarters directly after potting. Stand them in rows in a sunny situation, the pots clear of one another, sufficient room being allowed between the rows for the cultivator to move freely among them. The main stakes are tied to rough trellis made by straining wire in two rows about 2 ft. apart between upright poles driven into the ground. Coarse coal ashes or coke breeze are the best materials to stand the pots on, there being little risk of worms working through into the pots. The plants, which are required to produce as many flowers as possible, should have their tips pinched out at frequent intervals, from the end of March or beginning of April to the last week in June, for the main season kinds; and about the middle of July for the later kinds.
Towards the end of July the plants will need feeding at the roots with weak liquid manure, varied occasionally by a very slight dusting of soluble chemical manure such as guano. The soil should be moderately moist when manure is given. In order that the flowers may be of good form, all lateral flower buds should be removed as soon as they are large enough to handle, leaving only the bud terminating each shoot. Towards the end of September—earlier should the weather prove wet and cold—remove the plants to well-ventilated greenhouses where they are intended to flower. Feeding should be continued until the flowers are nearly half open, when it may be gradually reduced. The large mop-headed blooms seen at exhibitions in November are grown in the way described, but only one or two shoots are allowed to develop on a plant, each shoot eventually having only one bloom.
The chrysanthemum is subject to the attack of black aphis and green-fly. These pests may be destroyed, out of doors, by syringing with quassia and soft soap solutions, by dusting the affected parts with tobacco-powder, and indoors also by fumigating. Mildew generally appears after the plants are housed. It may be destroyed by dusting the leaves attacked with sublimed sulphur. Rust is a fungoid disease of recent years. It is best checked by syringing the plants with liver of sulphur (1 oz. to 3 gallons of water) occasionally, a few weeks before taking the plants into the greenhouse. Earwigs and slugs must be trapped and destroyed.
Flowers for Exhibition.—Flowers of exhibition standard must be as broad and as deep as the various varieties are capable of producing; they must be irreproachable in colour. They must also exhibit the form peculiar to the variety when at its best, very few kinds being precisely alike in this respect. New varieties are introduced in large numbers annually, some of which supplant the older kinds. The cultivator must therefore study the peculiarities of several new kinds each year if he would be a successful exhibitor.
For lists of varieties, &c. see the catalogues of chrysanthemum growers, the gardening Press, and the excellent cultural pamphlets which are published from time to time.
CHRYSANTHIUS, a Greek philosopher of the 4th century A.D., of the school of Iamblichus. He was one of the favourite pupils of Aedesius, and devoted himself mainly to the mystical side of Neoplatonism (q.v.). The emperor Julian (q.v.) went to him by the advice of Aedesius, and subsequently invited him to come to court, and assist in the projected resuscitation of Hellenism. But Chrysanthius declined on the strength of unfavourable omens, as he said, but probably because he realized that the scheme was unlikely to bear fruit. For the same reason he abstained from drastic religious reforms in his capacity as high-priest of Lydia. As a result of his moderation, he remained high-priest till his death, venerated alike by Christians and pagans. His wife Melite, who was associated with him in the priestly office, was a kinswoman of Eunapius the biographer.
CHRYSELEPHANTINE (Gr. χρυσός, gold, and ἐλέφας, ivory),
the architectural term given to statues which were built up on a
wooden core, with ivory representing the flesh and gold the
drapery. The two most celebrated examples are those by
Pheidias of the statue of Athena in the Parthenon and of Zeus in
the temple at Olympia.
CHRYSENE C18H12, a hydrocarbon occurring in the high
boiling fraction of the coal tar distillate. It is produced in small
quantity in the distillation of amber, on passing the vapour of
phenyl-naphthyl-methane through a red-hot tube, on heating
indene, or by passing the mixed vapours of coumarone and
naphthalene through a red-hot tube. It crystallizes in plates or
octahedra (from benzene), which exhibit a violet fluorescence,
and melt at 250°C. Chromic acid in glacial acetic acid solution
oxidizes it to chrysoquinone C18H10O2, which when distilled with
lead oxide gives chrysoketone C17H10O. When chrysene is fused
with alkalis, chrysenic acid, C17H12O3, is produced, which on
heating gives β-phenyl-naphthalene. On heating chrysene
with hydriodic acid and red phosphorus to 260°C, the hydro-derivatives
C18H28 and C18H30 are produced. It gives characteristic
addition products with picric acid and dinitroanthraquinone.
Impure chrysene is of a yellow colour; hence its name (χρύσεος,
golden yellow).
CHRYSIPPUS (c. 280–206 B.C.), Greek philosopher, the third great leader of the Stoics. A native of Soli in Cilicia (Diog. Laert. vii. 179), he was robbed of his property and came to Athens, where he studied possibly under Zeno, certainly under Cleanthes. It is said also that he became a pupil of Arcesilaus and Lacydes, heads of the Middle Academy. This impartiality in his early studies is the key of his philosophic work, the dominant characteristic of which is comprehensiveness rather than originality. He took the doctrines of Zeno and Cleanthes and crystallized them into a definite system; he further defended them against the attacks of the Academy. His polemic skill earned for him the title of the “Column of the Portico.” Diogenes Laertius says, “If the gods use dialectic, they can use none other than that of Chrysippus”; εἰ μὴ γὰρ ᾐν Χρύσιππὄς, οὐκ ἂν ἠν Στοά (“Without Chrysippus, there had been no Porch”). He excelled in logic, the theory of knowledge, ethics and physics. His relations with Cleanthes, contemporaneously criticized by Antipater, are considered under Stoics.
