to be merely periodic, and due to fluctuations in rainfall, and do not point, as some have supposed, to a secular drying up of the lake.
The lake is fed by a number of rivers and small streams which descend from the surrounding highlands. The Mlagarazi (or Malagarasi), perhaps the largest feeder, derives most of its water from the rainy districts east of the strip of high ground which shuts in the lake on the north-east. The main stream, in fact, has a nearly circular course, rising in 4º 40' S., only some 10 miles from the lake shore and less than 40 miles from its mouth, though its length is at least 220 miles. The other branches of the Mlagarazi, which traverse the somewhat arid granite plateaus between the lake and 33º E., bring comparatively little water to the main stream. In its lower course the river is a rapid stream flowing between steep jungle-clad hills, with one fall of 5 feet, and is of little use for navigation. The various channels of its delta are also obstructed with sand-banks in the dry season. The Rusizi, the next (or perhaps equal) in importance among the feeders of the lake, has already been spoken of. It receives many tributaries from the sides of the rift-valley, and is navigable for canoes. The remaining feeders are of distinctly less importance, the Lofu, which enters in the south-west, being probably the largest.
Tanganyika has never been sounded systematically, but the whole configuration of its valley points to its being generally deep, and this has been confirmed by a few actual measurements. Dr Livingstone obtained a depth of 326 fathoms opposite Mount Kabogo, south of Ujiji. Mr Hore often failed to find boftom with a line of 168 fathoms. The French explorer, Victor Giraud, reported 647 metres (about 350 fathoms) off Mrumbi on the west coast, and Moore depths of 200 fathoms and upwards near the south end. The shores fall rapidly as a rule, and there is a marked scarcity of islands, none occurring of any size or at a distance from the coast line. The lake is subject to occasional storms, especially from the south-south-east and south-west, which leave a heavy swell and impede navigation. The cloud and thunder and lightning effects are spoken of as very impressive, and the scenery of the lake and its shores has been much extolled by travellers.
Vegetation is generally luxuriant, and forest clothes portions of the mountain slopes. The lake lies on the dividing line between the floral regions of East and West Africa, and the oil-palm characteristic of the latter is found on its shores. The largest timber tree is the mvule, which attains vast dimensions, its trunk supplying the natives with the dug-out canoes with which they navigate the lake. The more level parts of the shores have a fertile soil and produce a variety of crops, including rice, maize, manioc, sweet potatoes, sugar-cane, &c., &c. The waters dispjay an abundance of animal life, crocodiles and hippopotami occurring in the bays and river mouths, which are also the haunts of water- fowl of many kinds. Fish are also plentiful. Various sections of the Bantu division of the Negro race dwell around the lake, those on the west and south-west showing the most pronounced Negro type, while the tribes on the east exhibit some intermixture with representatives of the Hamitic stock, and (towards the south) some traces of Zulu influence. The surrounding region has been overrun by Arabs and Swahili from the East African coast.
Though rumours of the existence of the lake had previously reached the east coast, Tanganyika was not visited by any European until, in 1858, the famous expedition of Burton and Speke reached the Arab settlement of Ujiji and partially explored the northern portion. Ujiji became famous some years later as the spot where Dr Livingstone was found by Stanley in 1871, after being lost to sight for some time in the centre of the continent. The southern half of the lake was first circumnavigated by Lieutenant V. L. Cameron in 1874, and the whole lake by Stanley in 1876. The mapping of Tanganyika, which long rested on the surveys of Mr E. C. Hore, published in 1882, received considerable modification, about 1899-1900, from the work of Fergusson, Lemaire, Kohlschütter and others, who showed that while the general outline of the coasts had been drawn fairly correctly, the whole central portion, and to a lesser degree the northern, must be shifted a considerable distance to the west. At Mtowa, in 5º 43' S., the amount of shifting of the west coast was about 30 miles. At Ujiji, on the east coast, the longitude was given by Kohlschütter as 29º 40' 2" E. as compared with 30º 4' 30" E. of Cameron, a difference of some 25 miles.
In the partition of Africa among the European Powers, the shores of Tanganyika have been shared by Belgium, Great Britain and Germany, Great Britain holding the southern extremity, Germany the east, and Belgium the west. Stations have been established on the lake by all three Powers, the principal being — German: Bismarckburg in the south and Ujiji in the north; British: Sumbu and Kasakalawe, on Cameron Bay; Belgian: Mtowa or Albertville in 6º S. Missionaries, especially the Catholic “White Fathers,” are also active on its shores. A small steamer, the “Good News,” was placed on the lake by the London Missionary Society in 1884, but afterwards became the property of the African Lakes Corporation; a larger steamer, the “Hedwig von Wissmann,” carrying a quick-firing Krupp gun, was launched in 1900 by a German expedition under Lieutenant Schloifer; and others are owned by the “Tanganyika Concessions” and Katanga companies. The greater part of the trade with Tanganyika is done by the African Lakes Corporation by the Shiré-Nyasa route, but the Germans have opened up overland routes from Dar-es-Salaam.
Authorities. — The narratives of Burton, Livingstone, Cameron and Stanley; E. C. Hore, Lake Tanganyika (London, 1892); J. E. S. Moore, in Geogr. Journal, September 1897 and January 1901; To the Mountains of the Moon (London, 1901); The Tanganyika Problem (London, 1903); L. A. Wallace, Geogr. Journal, June 1899; H. Ramsay, in Verhandl. d. Gesell. für Erdkunde Berlin, No. 7, 1898; H. Glauning and E. Kohlschütter, in Mitt. aus den Deutschen Schutzgebieten, Nos. 1 and 2, 1900; E. Kohlschütter, in Verhandl. 13 Deutsch. Geographentages, 1901; M. Fergusson, in Geol. Mag., August 1901; E. Stromer, in Petermanns Mitteil., December 1901; R. Codrington, in Geogr. Journal, May 1902; W. H. Hudleston, in Transactions Victoria Inst., 1904; also papers on the results of Dr W. A. Cunnington's expedition in Proceedings of the Zoological Society, 1906, &c.; Journal of the Linnean Society, 1907.
TANGERMÜNDE, a town of Germany, in the Prussian province of Saxony, on the Elbe, 43 m. N.E. from Magdeburg by rail via Stendal. Pop. (1905) 12,829. It contains iron foundries, shipbuilding yards, refineries, and other industrial establishments, and enjoys a considerable river trade in grain and coal. It is ornamented by numerous brick buildings of the 14th and 15th centuries, including the turreted walls, the church of St Stephen (1376), and the late Gothic town hall. The castle, built in the 14th century, was the chief residence of the margraves of Brandenburg.
See Götze, Geschichte der Burg Tangermünde (Stendal, 1871).
TANGIER (locally Tanjah), a seaport of Morocco, on the
Straits of Gibraltar, about 14 m. E. of Cape Spartel, nestles
between two eminences at the N.W. extremity of a spacious bay.
The town, which has a population of about 40,000, presents a
picturesque appearance from the sea, rising gradually in the
form of an amphitheatre, with the citadel, the remainder of the
English mole and York Castle to the right : in the central valley
is the commercial quarter, while to the left along the beach runs
the track to Tetuan. Though rivalry between European Powers
led to many public works being delayed, through the action of
the public Sanitary Association the streets, which are narrow
and crooked, have been re-paved as well as cleaned and partially
lighted, and several new roads have been made outside the
town. In some of the older streets European shops have
replaced the picturesque native cupboards; drinking dens have
sprung up at many of the corners, while telephones and electric
light have been irtroduced by private companies, and European
machinery is used in many of the corn-mills, &c. The main
thoroughfare leads from Bab el Marsa (Gate of the Port) to
the Bab el Sok (Gate of the Market-place) known to the English
as Port Catherine. The sok presents a lively spectacle, espe-
cially upon Thursdays and Sundays.
Tangier is almost destitute of manufactures, and while the trade, about £750,000 a year, is considerable for Morocco, it is confined chiefly to imports, about two-fifths of which come from Great Britain and Gibraltar, and one quarter from France. The exports are chiefly oxen, meat, fowls and eggs for Gibraltar and sometimes for Spain, with occasional shipments of slippers and blankets to Egypt. Most of the trade, both wholesale and retail, is in the hands of the Jews (see further Morocco).
The harbour formed by the Bay of Tangier is an extensive one, the best Morocco possesses, and good in all weathers except during a strong east wind, but vessels of any size have to anchor a mile or so out as the shore to the west is shallow and sandy, and to the east, rocky and shingly. Since 1907 a basin with an outer and inner mole has been built. It does not, however,
