Next day we passed close uiuler Jebel Beiia on the north side over a stony plain called Eagadda; the hills were formed of nummulitic limestone, and appeared perfectly dry and bare; the wide open plains were very flat and bare of vegetation, with the exception of a small amount of the usual desert shrub. It was a great relief to get clear of the sand dunes, which ended close to Wâdy el 'Arish.
On reaching the end of Jebel Bena the high range of Jebel Yelek appeared to the south-west, and the long range of Jebel Mugharah flanked the valley on the north; an open plain up which we travelled led between these two, and our track ran close under the Jebel Mugharali. I was told there was a cave in the interior of these mountains which contained a perennial supply of water. The hills rose abruptly from the plain, and appeared to be of the same formation as the nummulitic range of Jebel Bena. In some places the strata were much bent and contorted. At nightfall we reached a ruined well called Bir el Hemmeh, which contained a small quantity of stagnant water which had a very unpleasant smell.
Next morning we passed a small ridge formed by a volcanic outbreak of trap rock, and shortly after the sand began to appear again. In a few hours we reached the watershed of the valley; the sand had increased to high ridges and hills, through or over which we had to find our way. The watershed was flat, another open valley leading away to the west with Jebel Felleh on the south, and a continuation of the Jebel Mugharah range on the north. We camped on the sand near a prominent top called Jebel el Urf, which forms a landmark on this road.
Next morning we crossed the low ridge under Jebel el Urf, and passing down a sandy valley at noon we came to a flat of mud which formed the end of the valley, a barrier of sand having been thrown up and thus stopping up the valley completely. Crossing this ridge an immense extent of sandhills appeared as far as the eye could reach. I do not think I have ever seen so desolate and dreary a country: nothing but ridge after ridge of sand dunes for an immense distance. The wind blew a strong gale from the west, sending the sand up into our faces so sharply that the camels would at times hardly face it. This wind lasted, unfortunately, until we reached Ismailia, and was very trying to the whole party.
We camped under a sandhill and had a very cold and windy night. Next morning it was found we had no water. The Arabs are always most improvident about water, and require continual watching; during
