Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/105

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The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0193.pngIll. 193. Simple Placket Where There Is No Strain done evenly and with a suitable stitch and tension. Otherwise the placket-hole will have a careless appearance. A placket-hole should be ten or eleven inches deep unless the figure is unusually large and full, requiring a still deeper opening.

The design of the skirt regulates the position and finish of the placket. It may be at the center or side back, the front or side front.

Illustration 193 shows a simple finish for a placket which may be used for a skirt that has fulness at the top so that no strain comes on the placket-hole. The overlapping edge is finished with a facing and the under edge with an underlap. The facing can be machine-stitched or finished invisibly by hand according to the finish of the skirt. Snap fasteners (Chapter 24, page 116) may be used for the closing since there is no strain. The fasteners should be placed about two inches apart.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0194.pngIll. 194. Placket in Center of Inverted Plait

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0195.pngIll. 195. Finish of Placket in Ill. 194

A PLACKET-HOLE AT THE CENTER OF AN INVERTED PLAIT is shown in Illustration 194. The placket comes under an inverted plait at the center back of the skirt which fits plainly at the top.

The first step in finishing the placket of a skirt of this kind is to turn the skirt edges back as allowed by the pattern. Stitch the edges of the placket-hole and sew on the hooks and eyes as illustrated, taking care that the stitches don't show through on the outside of the skirt. Cover the hooks on the right side with a facing of silk. Sew an underlap of material an inch and a half wide, finished, to the left edge, and bind the raw edge of the lap with binding ribbon. (Ill. 195.) The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0196.pngIll. 196. Placket Showing Hooks and Eyes