Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/133

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CHAPTER 26

BIAS TRIMMINGS

Bands or Folds—Lined Fold—Piped Fold—Double Folds—Milliners' Fold—Tailors' Strap—Cording—Corded Tuck—Piping—Cord Piping—Bias Bindings—Rolled Hem

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0287.pngIll. 287. Unlined Fold BANDS OR FOLDS USED AS TRIMMING are made in a variety of ways. They may be lined, unlined, double of the material, or piped at the edges. Cut the band the required width, allowing for a turning at both edges.

THE UNLINED FOLD (Ill. 287) is made with its lower edge basted up in a hem and stitched evenly from the right side. The upper edge is turned over, and the band is then basted into position on the garment. The upper edge is stitched through the garment, making the one stitching serve two purposes. (Ill 287.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0288.pngIll. 288. Lined Fold

THE LINED FOLD is finished before it is applied to the garment. Cut a strip of lining as wide as the band should be when completed. Baste it evenly on the wrong side of the strip of material, turning both edges down over it. (Ill. 288.) Catch-stitch the edges to the lining, (Ill. 288) and the fold is ready for use. (Ill. 288.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0289.pngIll. 289. Piped Fold THE PIPED FOLD is one in which a cord or piping (see page 131) has been applied to the edges with one or more rows of machine-stitching to give it a tailored finish. (Ill. 289.)

DOUBLE FOLDS are made of bias strips cut twice the width desired for the finished band with turnings or seam allowances extra. Fold them over on the center line and baste them flat. Turn the two raw edges in and baste them together. (Ill. 290.) Then join them neatly with slip-stitches, and apply to the garment by hand. If machine-stitching is desired, baste the fold in place first and then stitch. These folds are frequently used as a trimming in the place of tucks.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0290.pngIll. 290. Double Fold A MILLINERS' FOLD is made by turning the top edge of the strip over one-half the width of the finished fold. Bring up the lower turned-under edge, covering the raw upper edge. (Ill. 291.) Sew flat with slip-stitching, fine running stitches, or by machine. (Ill. 291.)

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