additions. The Villa Giulia was again illuminated but neither the governor nor la società went, it being the custom for them to go only the first night. The drive on the Cassaro began as usual at midnight.
The following day was the last of the races, and in the evening we went to the cathedral, the illumination of which is considered almost unique, and certainly the coup d’œil as we entered was splendid. The interior is remarkably plain, so there was nothing to interfere with the blaze of light, which was entirely produced by innumerable wax candles, suspended a short distance from the roof, and from every arch and pillar in the building, and were indeed most artistically arranged. A guard of soldiers stood on each side from the door to the chancel, the ladies sat on chairs beyond the rails of the altar, and the side aisles were filled with the people. The archbishop, attended by the senators, walked up the centre, and after assuming his robes and tiara the service began. The music was nothing remarkable, but I never saw any costume so becoming as that of the senators’, the pretore especially looked like a magnificent Vandyke which had walked out of its frame. The dress is composed of a flowing robe of black silk, slashed sleeves, with under ones of white satin, spangled with gold, a white collar forming a square in front, and a gold chain. As usual, during vespers, nobody seemed to pay any attention; and though so near, we all talked and laughed. I was rather scandalised, but I felt I could not teach the Sicilians how to behave in their own church. After a time, a priest kindly took us to see the chapel of Santa Rosalia; the shrine, surmounted by a statue of the Saint, is of silver, and immensely heavy: some relics were also exhibited, contained in a highly ornamented pix, which my companions kissed with great reverence.
Towards the end of the vespers a gun was fired, which we learnt was the signal of the governor’s leaving the palace. In a few minutes the chanting had ceased, the soldiers caught up their drums, the senators advanced half-way down the aisle, and returned in a moment with His Excellency, the drums making hideous music as he appeared. The benediction was now given, the governor visited the chapel of Santa Rosalia, and returned down the aisle as before. We all followed, and had the pleasure of seeing the senators enter the city carriages, large ponderous vehicles similar to the sheriffs’ coaches of the past century in London, being all glass, the pannels gaily painted in scarlet and gold, and with a white plume at each of the four corners. The small people were now able to get away, and we were amused, on turning round to give one farewell glance, to see that during these very few minutes, at least half the lights had already been extinguished, what were thus saved, as they are the perquisite of the inferior clergy.
On the following morning high mass was performed in the Duomo, when the governor was duly incensed as Legate of the Holy See. In the evening we went by invitation to the Sala Pretoriana, to witness the conclusion of the festino, consisting of a procession of statues and relics, which starts from the cathedral and diverges from the Cassaro at the Quattro Cantoni, marches round the fountain, returns to the Cassaro, and thence proceeds to one of the four quarters into which the city is divided, through every street, lane, and alley of which these saints and relics are conducted, leaving, it is supposed, innumerable blessings behind them; thus every quarter had its share once in four years, and by six o’clock the next morning the procession was over. The shrine of Santa Rosalia comes last, and is followed for a certain distance by the archbishop on foot; the unfortunate senators have to walk after it the whole night, the municipal carriages following to convey them home when all is ended. The pretore remains at the Palazzo Pretoriano to receive the governor, and each saint pauses before the windows. The fountain was prettily illuminated with symmetrically arranged lamps, but reflected lights would have shown off the statues to more advantage. The interior of the room was no less gay, as on this night all the diamonds of the Palermitan ladies were put in requisition; at the archbishop’s but few are worn, but this evening it was the etiquette to appear as fully dressed as possible.
I got rather tired of the apparently endless procession, and left the balcony to chat with my friends inside the room: for the Sicilians, who are used to see all this every year, came to enjoy a little society, not for the sake of the spectacle. I was, however, called back to look at the very singular manner in which the saints Cosmo and Damiano are carried. These saints, who are always united, and are, no doubt, the Castor and Pollux of the old Romans, adopted and renamed by the Romish Church, are regarded as the patrons of the fishermen and boatmen; so, by an ancient tradition, the marinari, who are the bearers, imitate the motion of the waves, and the band which accompanies them plays accordingly. At a given signal, the wind is favourable, and they all run as fast and as far as their very heavy burden will allow of. Then comes a calm, next a contrary wind, during which they stagger about. Occasionally, as is the case with the other saints, they are set down while the bearers rest; but when these are taken up again, the men dance in a circle round and round two or three times, before recommencing their eccentric march. They always re-enter the church where the saints live, running as fast as they can; and generally half of them, at least, measure their length on the slippery marble pavement, Cosmo and Damiano themselves getting upset occasionally in the midst of their votaries.
Another very singular fête is held at Casteltermine. We were making a tour in the interior of Sicily, and as inns are both scarce and bad, our kind friends had furnished us with many letters; among others, to a very large proprietor in this town, who received us with the greatest hospitality. We were also fortunate in arriving in time to witness this festa, which, as our host and a priest who was sitting with him informed me, has been held from time immemorial to commemorate the “Invenzione della Croce,” the recovery of the true Cross by the Empress Helena. The streets are paraded from an early hour in