through which we made our way with extreme difficulty. While in the
middle of one, my companion told me, that once when in the very spot
where we then stood, his horse chanced to place his fore-feet on the back
of a large alligator, which, not well pleased at being disturbed in his re-
pose, suddenly raised his head, opened his monstrous jaws, and snapped
off a part of the lips of his affrighted pony. You may imagine the
terror of the poor beast, which, however, after a few plunges, resumed its
course, and succeeded in carrying its rider through in safety. As a re-
ward for this achievement, it Was ever after honoured with the appella-
tion of "Alligator."
We had now travelled about twenty miles, and the sun having reached the zenith, we dismounted to partake of some refreshment. From a muddy pool we contrived to obtain enough of tolerably clear water to mix with the contents of a bottle, the like of which I would strongly recommend to every traveller in these swampy regions ; our horses, too, found something to grind among the herbage that surrounded the little pool ; but as little time was to be lost, we quickly remounted, and resumed our disagreeable journey, during which we had at no time proceeded at a rate exceeding two miles and a half in the hour.
All at once, however, a wonderful change took place:—the country became more elevated and undulating ; the timber was of a different nature, and consisted of red and live oaks, magnolias, and several kinds of pine. Thousands of "mole-hills," or the habitations of an animal here called "the salamander," and "goffer's burrows," presented themselves to the eye, and greatly annoyed our horses, which every now and then sank to the depth of a foot, and stumbled at the risk of breaking their legs, and what we considered fully as valuable, our necks. We now saw beautiful lakes of the purest Avater, and passed along a green space, having a series of them on each side of us. These sheets of water became larger and more numerous the farther we advanced, some of them extending to a length of several miles, and having a depth of from two to twenty feet of clear water; but their shores being destitute of vegetation, we observed no birds near them. Many tortoises, however, were seen basking in the sun, and all, as we approached, plunged into the water. Not a trace of man did we observe during our journey, scarcely a bird, and not a single quadruped, not even a rat ; nor can one imagine a poorer and more desolate country than that which lies between the Halifax River,
