Whilst strolling about I saw a chief and his two small sons approaching the shore in their canoe, and on their landing went to interview them, and if possible buy the chief's fine breastplate and ornaments. This man was slim, but of good figure, and bore himself with such stately dignity that there was no mistaking he was "somebody." He and his sons were quite nude, devoid even of the string costume, but wore handsome ornaments and beads, and so looked perfectly dressed. Their want of clothes never seems a want;it appears quite natural, and, in fact, you never notice it. In manner, bearing, and mode of speech this naked savage was a polished, dignified gentleman. Many are like that. They will kill and eat you boiled or baked at a moment's notice, but that is a trivial detail.
In Sydney I had laid in a stock of beads to trade with. In my ignorance I imagined that pretty beads would be the thing, and some of my strings of beads were really rosaries. I was not aware that fashion is as great an autocrat in New Guinea as elsewhere, and that certain sorts of beads were alone in request, just as the fashion in nose or earrings varies. When, therefore, after entering into a polite conversation with this personage, I intimated a desire to trade my pretty beads for his shell ornaments, he drew himself up and intimated haughtily that they were not for sale. I told him how I liked such things and wanted some to carry to my far-off land for my many wives there. He gradually thawed, then became quite friendly, and even condescended to laugh, joke, and smoke with me. I asked if he would not like to have me for dinner, but he laughed and said I was too salt and would taste too much of tobacco, so I suppose he had had experience in such dainties. He took one of my rosaries, held it up, and pointed with
