Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/30

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a dragging in the wing. The back is cut on the crease, it being drawn by going out 1 inch from the natural waist of a Chester, and drawing from top of neck through it to the bottom; the sideseam of back is squared down the some width as at the top, quite straight.

The forepart is out exactly the some as the forepart of the Chester in front, but with additional width at sideseam, it being made to overlap the back at waist, according to the degree of fulness desired in the back. If wanted to fit moderately easy it should overlap about1+12 or 2 inches, and be continued through to the bottom by drawing a straight line from the shoulder point of back; if, however, it is required to fit into the waist and define the figure at that part, it will then be necessary to shape the sideseam, as for a Chesterfield, and taking out about 1 inch at natural waist, then springing over the seat as described for that garment; but it should always be home in mind that the closer the body of the coat fits, the more spring will be required in the wing, in order to produce the necessary ease for the arms. If it is desired to put sleeves to this garment, it will be best to cut all the scye in one with the forepart, making the shoulder the full width, and carrying it round to the two dots at back, so that the sideseam may still run up to the shoulder, and allow of the cape being sewn in with it. When worn without sleeves, the armhole may be enlarged to any extent, but if it is desired to be fairly close-fitting, it is advisable to keep it about 1 or 2 inches above the natural waist; a 1+14 inch button stand is generally added, it being customary to make this garment to button through.

Patch pockets are generally looked upon as the correct thing, and are made large and roomy, usually being placed in the position shown.

We will now describe the special feature of this garment.

The Wing.

A very great latitude is allowed in the amount of spring given to this, but it should be borne in mind that the closer the body of this garment is cut, the fuller it is necessary to cut the wing in order to avoid that contraction so frequently experienced in these when the arms are raised. The diagrams show a wing arranged to agree with the body as illustrated on diagram 43; it is cut by placing the back and forepart down as shown by dotted lines, and then taking the sleeve and placing it with the forearm at the forearm pitch, allowing it to overlap about 1 inch, so that it touches the scye up to midway between the top of front shoulder and the forearm pitch. Now mark round the top of sleeve. and make a mark as at * * where the hindarm comes, so that it may be put in to the back pitch of sleeve. Now put the finger on this spot, and swing the sleeve round till the amount of spring desired is obtained; in this instance it is brought to the level of scye line on back, or say 2+12 to 3+12 inches over the half breast, from centre line of front, and the wing is drawn to that point by the hindarm of sleeve; the lower part requires a little additional spring as shown; one of the best guides being to turn the sleeve over, so that the forearm rests on that part of the wing already found, and then draw the lower portion by it. The comer is rounded off and left loose from the sideseam for a few inches as illustrated, to where the stitching of edge terminates. The length of the wing is also arranged by the sleeve, it being usual to let them come to just cover the coat sleeve; so the back part of wing is found by the sleeve when swung round, as per the most backward dotted lines, and the side with the sleeve laid in the position in which it was first laid, and whence it is continued across almost straight; 1 1/2 inches of spring is added on the front beyond the forepart as shown, to prevent any tendency to open at that part. The fulness at top of wing should be put in exactly the same as with a sleeve head, and if necessary the V may be cut a little deeper. In making a stay should be put at the part where the wing is finished at sideseam, and also at the terminating point at neck, it being frequently left loose 2 or 3 inches from the centre line, so that it may be easier thrown back over the shoulder. The wing is generally lined with silk, which is sometimes brought to the edge, and in others the front is faced. The Cape may be either made to button through or fasten with a fly. The general rule with Inverness Capes is to make them to button to the throat with a Prussian collar.