The Cutters' Practical Guide (1898)/Part 1/Economy
In order to make this work as complete as possible we have added three diagrams of lays to give cutters an idea of what we consider economical cutting. Economy does not necessarily consist of getting a suit out of the least possible quantity, but rather taking it out of the cloth to the best advantage, leaving inlays where required, and placing the patterns down so that the material is not biased in any way.
This represents a Boy's Knicker Suit 24 chest, cut out of 1⅛ yards, the facings are not large, but such is not generally of importance. The patterns in every case used for these diagrams are the Tailor and Cutter models.
This and the next diagram are taken from "Economy in Cutting" a work every cutter should posses; and as we have put it to an extended test in daily practice at the cutting board, we can speak somewhat authoritatively on it's merits, which we believe to be of the highest order, and is a work that should be in the hands of every progressive cutter.
This lay represents a Lounge Suit, 28 breast, 24 long, 37 sideseam, and is taken out of 1¾ yards, 56 inch cloth. For smaller suits of the same type, the length required may be still further reduced by making the top and undersides of the trousers change, and putting seat pieces on, that is if the length of sleeves will admit of it, which they generally will in smaller sizes.
This lay represents a Lounge Jacket Suit, 32 breast, 26 long, 41 sidesarm, and is taken out of 2¼ yards, 56 inch material. It is also suitable for sizes between 28 and 32 breast. A saving may be affected by putting top welts or top bands on the trousers which could be got between the sleeves and the undersides of the trousers. It will be noticed that if a roll is required for the vest a small piece must be put on the forepart.
For larger sizes we must refer our readers to the work previously mentioned, and which may be obtained from the Talior and Cutter Office, price 7s. 6d. or post free 7s. 9d.