Page:Journey to Lhasa and Central Tibet.djvu/223

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JOURNEY TO LHASA AND CENTRAL TIBET.
185

Letters are carried by messengers and special couriers called chib-zamba (or ta-zamba), meaning, literally, "horse-bridge." The couriers generally discharge their duty with admirable efficiency, and every one assists them with great promptness. All Government messengers are provided with the best and swiftest ponies, and at every halt are furnished with lodgings, water, firewood, and a man to cook their victuals. Couriers on foot usually travel from 20 to 25 miles a day, while those who ride do from 30 to 35 miles. The latter is the express rate, for which the Government generally gives an extra remuneration. Government couriers alone get ta-u, or ponies for travelling; private letters of officials are carried by them, while common people make their own arrangements for the conveyance of their letters, which are not, however, numerous.

The express couriers, or te-tsi, on the road between Lhasa and China are dressed in tight blue-coloured gowns, the tape fastenings of which are tied on their heads, and the knot sealed. They are required to subsist daily on five hen's eggs, five cups of plain tea, a pound of corn-flour, half a pound of rice, and a quarter-pound of lean meat.[1] They are forbidden to take much salt, and are strictly forbidden to eat onions, garlic, red pepper, butter, or milk. At midnight they are allowed to sleep in a sitting posture for three hours, after which they are awakened by the keeper of the stagehouse. It is said that these couriers are in the habit of taking certain medicines to give them the power of endurance against fatigue.[2] The letters are enclosed in a yellow bag, which the courier carries on his back, generally using some soft feathers to keep it from coming into contact with his person. They get relays of ponies at the end of every five lebor.[3] Arriving at a stage-house, they fire a gun as a notice to the keeper of the next postal stage to make ready a post-pony. At every such stage a relay of five ponies is usually kept ready. The courier is allowed to change his dress once a week.[4]

A special class of trained men are employed on this service. The distance between the Tibetan capital and Peking is divided into a

  1. A pretty good allowance, one would think. Cf., on this courier service, Hue, op. cit., vol. ii. p. 450.—(W. R.)
  2. In China most of the couriers are opium-smokers.—(W. R.)
  3. A lebor is, says our author, equal, to 720 yards. It is the Chinese li, but I have heard the word always pronounced leu. A li, however, is about GOO yards.—(W. R.)
  4. I fancy our author means rearrange or remove his dress. A travelling Tibetan never changes his dress.—(W. R.)