A Voyage to the South Atlantic and round Cape Horn into the Pacific Ocean, etc./Chapter 9
1793.
December 6.It was the sixth day of December, when we lost sight of Socoro; and on the eighth in the afternoon, we made Moro Corona on the Coast of Mexico; we had pleasant weather and the winds were between the North West and the North East. I entertained a strong desire to see Passion Isle before I made the coast, as it might have been of future advantage to fishers and cruizers; but my bread was become so bad as to be no longer in a state to be eaten, which made every person on board anxious to get to the Southward and reach the Galipagoe Isles where we might refit for England; unless we should fall in with some European Vessel that would supply us with the necessaries which we so much wanted; or from being made acquainted with the state of Europe, might venture into some Spanish port.
In our passage to the Coast, which we made in Latitude 19° 28′, we passed great quantities of herring, turtle, porpoises, black-fish, devil-fish, and fin-back whale, but the number of birds appeared to be greatly diminished since we left the coast: for at that time there were innumerable flocks of boobies, which were so tame, as not only to perch on the different parts of the ship, but even on our boats, and the oars while they were actually employed in rowing. When the appearance of the weather foretold a squall, or on the approach of night, the turtle generally afforded a place of rest for one of these birds on his back; and though this curious perch was usually an object of contest, the turtle appears to be perfectly at ease and unmoved on the occasion. The victorious bird generally eased the turtle of the sucking fish and maggots that adhere to and troubled him. We now saw dolphins and porpoises in abundance, and took many of the latter, which we mixed with salt pork, and made excellent sausages, indeed they became our ordinary food. Sea snakes were also in great plenty, and many of the crew made a pleasant and nutritious meal of them.
We kept along the shore, under an easy sail, during the day and at night lay to. The winds were generally light and very variable, and we did not get off Acapulco till the Dec. 19.nineteenth of December, the moon having then passed its full near three days, and the sun approaching to its greatest Southern declination. As we had not lately experienced any changeable or bad weather, we entertained the pleasing hopes that the unfavourable season was nearly passed, but at sun-set the blackest clouds I ever saw, gathered around us, and the succeeding night produced rain, with thunder, lightning, and heavy squalls of wind from all points of the compass, but chiefly from South to East. The rain continued to pour, in never-ceasing torrents, throughout the 20.following day; but on the winds inclining to the North of East the rain began to abate, and towards the evening it fell only in heavy showers, and faint lightning continued to gleam through the night; but it was not till 21.ten o'clock A. M. on the twenty-first, that the showers became moderate and we got sight of land: as we were within nine or ten leagues of it, with dark and unpromising weather, we made sail off shore with an Easterly wind; when, from the general bad state of my sails, I ordered the top-sails to be furled, and lay to under stay-sails. Dec. 22.On the twenty-second of December the weather became moderate, with settled North Easterly winds and frequent showers, which continued without any variation to the end of this year. I shall not, however, omit to mention that, after the example of my first commander and patron Captain Cooke, 25.I did not suffer our Christmas, the grand festival of the Christian world, to pass by without a sincere, though imperfect celebration of it.
We had now an alternate succession of calms and light winds, which blew from the North West quarter, and at times thunder and lightening. We proceeded down the coast under top-sails 28.during the day, and lay to at night. When we saw any spouting fish, we stood off and on to ascertain their class, but of these there were very few, which proved to be hump-back and fin-back whale, black-fish and porpoises, but there were great numbers of albicores, bonnettas, dolphins and turtle, and of the two latter we caught as many as were necessary for our consumption.
31.On the thirty-first of December our Latitude was 14° 53′ and we had passed over the ground where we had reason to expect the greatest success in fishing, but had been driven off by bad weather, without killing more than two or three whales; and as we did not now perceive the smallest trace of there being any fish of the spermaceti kind, and having every reason to believe, from the observations I had made, that their return like many other sea animals are periodical, under these doubtful circumstances it would have manifested an unpardonable degree of imprudence to have remained longer on this station with no more than six months provision, such as it was at two thirds allowance, and at such an immense distance from any of our own settlements. We continued for these reasons to pass under an easy sail along shore, flattering ourselves, at the same time, that we should either fall in with spermaceti whale, or meet with some vessel, who could afford us the assistance which we wanted. We now put the Rattler in the best posture of defence our situation would admit, as we were determined to speak to the first ship we met, and if she should prove an enemy, to trust either to our strength or superiority of sailing, the latter we had great faith in.
1794.
January 1.On January the first in Latitude 14° 36′ we had a heavy gale of wind from the North East quarter, which occasioned a prodigious sea, and the ship to labour more than when she was off Cape Horn, so much so, that I was under some apprehension that we should lose our main mast. On the January 2.second the weather moderated, but became very changeable and foggy, with alternate calms and light winds. The night was moist with heavy dews, the colour of the sea frequently changed and there was much broken and white water. I kept the deep sea-lead constantly employed, but found no bottom at one hundred and fifty fathom, in Latitude 13° 33′ North. The winds westered on us and were succeeded by light and changeable breezes till we got into the Latitude 12° 48′, when we fell in with innumerable flights of those birds which are known to follow whale, and of which we had not seen such numbers since we were searching for the Isle Grande in the Atlantic Ocean.
16.On the sixteenth we saw a sail to the Southward between us and the shore, and standing to the Northward and Westward. At noon, being in Latitude 12° 14′ 15″ North, we hove too to speak to her, our soundings were sixty fathoms, the volcano of Guatamala bearing North East by North, distant ten or eleven leagues. The vessel neared us considerably by one o'clock, and displayed Spanish colours: when it proved calm I sent the boat with the whaling master to board her, which he accordingly did, and returned with two sheep, six fowls, twelve tongues, several pumpkins and two bags of bread. The supercargo, who accompanied this present, brought an excuse from the master of the vessel, for his making sail from us, which he attributed to the variable winds and his great anxiety to get to Acapulco, to which place he was bound from Lima. From this person I learned that Louis the Sixteenth King of France, had been beheaded by his own subjects, that the two Nations of Great Britain and France were engaged in war, and that there were on the Coast of Peru, a French privateer, two snows and a schooner, which had already captured several vessels. I sent the Spanish supercargo back to his ship, with a quantity of wine, rum, porter and cheese, which, far exceeded in value the present I had received, but it was impossible by any argument I could employ to procure any addition to it. The whaling master who was twice on board the Spanish vessel, might, on the first visit have had his boat filled with whatever he had demanded; but on his second appearance, the Spanish Commander had recovered his spirits but lost his liberality, for he would not part with any thing more. From his general conversation, and the manner in which he stated the probability of our being taken by the French cruisers as we went down the coast, we had some reason to believe that Great Britain was at war with Spain as well as France.
We soon parted company with the Spanish trader, and stood to the South, distancing the land, at the same time, from twelve to fifteen leagues. The sea was continually varying in its colour, but we could not obtain any soundings.
January 23.On the twenty-third of January at noon, our Latitude was 8° 49′ 51″ North, Cape Blanco bearing North 3° East. Our stock of water was now very much reduced, and the greater part of that which remained, was, from its having been kept in oily casks, become so nauseous as to produce sickness instead of allaying thirst: I therefore made sail for the Island of Quibo, in order to obtain a fresh supply of such a material article, on which our future health depended. Our winds since we lost sight of Guatemala, were between the South East, and North East; and would at times vary for a few hours to the Western Quarter.
26.On the twenty-sixth we had moderate breezes from North West to South West, our Latitude was 7° 54′ North. 27.On the twenty-seventh, being in the vicinity of the Isle Mentuosa, between Cape Dulce and Quibo, we fell in with several spermaceti whales, of which we killed four, and afterwards were so unfortunate as to lose one along-side. The sight of these whales prolonged our cruise until February 8.the eighth of February, in the hope of getting more of them, but we only added four to those we had already taken. The winds on this cruize were very variable, but rather more in the western than the eastern quarter.
Between Cape Dulce and the South end of Quibo, are the Isles Zedzones, Mentuosa and Quicaras. The Zedzones consist of small barren rocks. Mentuosa rises to a considerable height, and is five or six miles in circumference, its summit is covered with trees, the greater part are those which bear the cocoa nut, which gives it a very pleasant appearance, but islets and breakers extend off its East and West ends to the distance of three or four miles. The bottom is rocky on the South side, as is the shore near the sea. There is a beach of sand behind some little creeks that runs in between the rocks, which makes a safe landing for boats. Here we went on shore, and got a quantity of cocoa nuts with a few birds. The Spaniards or Indians had been lately here, to fish on the reef for pearls, and had left great heaps of oyster shells. It may not, therefore, be improper to suggest to those who may hereafter find it convenient to land in this island, to be prepared to defend themselves, in case they should be attacked by any of its occasional visitors. There were a great plenty of parrots, doves and guanos, and it is probable that other refreshments might be obtained of which we are ignorant. At all events, it may be useful to whalers or cruizers, by offering a place where their sick may be landed, and cocoa nuts procured, whose milk will supply the want of water. This island, according to my observations, lies in Latitude 7° 15′ North, and Longitude 82° 40′ West. The quicaras consist of two isles: the larger one is about six or seven miles, and the lesser about two or three miles, in length; they lay North and South of each other, with but a small space between them; and distant from the South end of Quibo, about twelve miles. The least of these isles is entirely covered with cocoa trees; and the larger one bears an equal appearance of leafy verdure, but very few of the trees which produce it are of the cocoa kind.
The whole of my ship's company longed so much to get some good water to their bad bread, and our success in fishing had fallen so short of our expectations, that I was induced to quit the whaling sooner than I should otherwise have done: therefore on February 8.the eighth day of February at Noon, we rounded the South end of Quibo, the Latitude by observation being 7° 19′ 25″ North, soundings thirty-eight fathoms. The South point of Quibo bearing South 42° West, the North East point bearing North 45° West, and Cape Mariato bearing East 4° 30′ South. We had light airs and pleasant weather, during the greater part of the afternoon, the winds were at South East by East, and we steered North, North West with all sail set to get to an anchorage before night, keeping the lead constantly going, and during a run of eleven miles, our soundings were from thirty to thirty-six fathoms, and on drawing near to the North East point of Quibo, shoaled quick to ten fathom and an half, in which bottom we came to anchor; the North end of Quibo bearing North West by North; and the South end, South East by South. The boats were immediately sent to discover the watering place.
It was calm through the night and the early part of the morning, when we weighed anchor on the flood tide, to tow to a more convenient situation, but finding the water shoal to four fathom, and the bottom very visible, it was discovered that we were nearly surrounded by a reef which extended four or five miles from the shore. By the active conduct of the boats crew an anchor was carried out, and we warped off into ten fathom; a breeze then springing up from the East, we made sail, and ran along the edge of the reef, sounding seven, eight, nine and ten fathoms, at the distance of a mile and half from the shore. We soon after came to anchor and moored in the bay of Port de Dames in nineteen fathoms: the North point of the bay in a line with the North point of Isle Sebacco, bore North North East, the watering place North 44° West; and South point Isle Quibo South 32° East. Latitude by observation 7° 27′, and Longitude 82° 10′.
February 17.We lay here till the seventeenth of February, and got on board forty-three tons of water, with some fire wood. But of other refreshments we obtained little, though we had parties constantly employed in trying both the water and the land for fresh provisions. After all, two or three monkies and a few doves, were all we got from the island; and its surrounding water afforded us only alligators, crabs, cockles, clams, periwinkles, oysters and a few other shell fish unknown to us[1]. Several deer were seen among the thickets on the shore, as well as wolves, and the feet of some animals, which were supposed to be tygers, had left their impression on the sands. But the animals, were all of them so shy, that they kept beyond the reach of our fire-arms, and it was equally difficult to take the turtle which were seen in great abundance. That the birds and monkies were quickly alarmed, may be readily accounted for, from the numbers of hawks and large vultures who feed upon them; as in the maws of some of the latter which we killed, young monkies were found. The wolves and tygers may be supposed to keep the less offensive quadrupeds in a similar state of agitation; and the fish, as well as the turtle, may be harassed into an equal alarm by the alligators, sharks, sea-snakes, &c. all of which, particularly the first of them, seem to swarm on and about the surrounding shores.
From one of them I had a very fortunate escape. As I was walking along the sea coast, with a gun, and very attentive to the woods, in expectation of seeing some kind of fowl or game proceed from the thickets, suddenly my danger was discovered, of having passed over a large alligator, laying asleep under a ledge of the rock, and appeared to be a part of it; and being in a deep hollow I could not have escaped, if a little boy, the nephew of Captain Marshall, who accompanied me, had not alarmed me with his out-cry. I had just time enough to put a ball in my gun, the noise having roused the hideous animal, and he was in the act of springing at me when I discharged my piece at him, its contents entering beside his eye, and lodging in his brain, instantly killed him; it was then taken on board, where part of him was eaten. In the stomachs of several of the snakes which we took, there were fish in an undigested state, and of a size that credulity itself would almost refuse to believe. These voracious animals, appear to have greatly lessened the quantity of fish on the shores of this island, which afforded such an abundant supply of delicious and salutary food to former navigators. The woods also abound with snakes of different kinds, the largest we saw were the hooded snakes. As I was sitting on a bank at the side of a rivulet, one of the smaller bit me by the left knee, which caused it to swell to that degree, that I had a doubt for some time whether it would not cost me my life.
The vegetables and fruits we obtained on this island were but few. There were some cocoa trees in the bottom of the bay; and we found beans growing near the spot, where the Spanish pearl fishers or Indians had resided; and from whence, as we conjectured from the state of their fire-places, they were but lately removed. The mistol and the chammer tree, mentioned by Mr. Falkner, were seen in great plenty, but the fruit produced a nausea and sickness soon after it was swallowed. The officer, whom I sent to the Northward, informed me, that the huts remained which are mentioned in the voyage of Lord Anson, and considered that bay as the most convenient for any ship that might be obliged to remain at this island to refit.
Quibo is the most commodious place for cruizers, of any I had seen in these seas; as all parts of it furnish plenty of wood and water. The rivulet from whence we collected our stock, was about twelve feet in breadth, and we might have got timber for any purpose for which it could have been wanted. There are trees of the cedar kind a sufficient size to form masts for a ship of the first rate, and of the quality which the Spaniards in their dock yards use for every purpose of ship building, making masts, &c. A vessel may lay so near the shore as to haul off its water; but the time of anchoring must be considered, as the flats run off a long way, and it is possible to be deceived in the distance. The high water, by my calculation is at half past three o'clock; at full and change the flood comes from the North and returns the same way, flowing seven hours and ebbing five, and the perpendicular rise of the tide two fathoms. I found several betel nuts which appeared to have been washed on the shore by the tide, but I did not see any of the plants that bear them, growing on the shore, though several of my people, after we had left the place, mentioned their having seen many of them.
It would not be advisable for men of war and armed vessels, acting upon the defensive or offensive, to anchor far in, as the wind throughout the day, blows fresh from the Eastward, and right on shore, so that an enemy would have a very great advantage over ships in such a situation. There is good anchorage throughout the bay; at five or six miles distance, thirty-three and thirty-five fathom, with a mud bottom, and firm holding ground.
The most commanding look out is the top of Quicara, we saw it over Quibo (which is low and flat) while we lay at anchor; and is, I presume, the remarkable mountain which Lord Anson mistook for part of Quibo as mentioned in his voyage. Indeed, a good look out on the top of this island may be necessary for many obvious reasons, as it commands the whole coast and bay. We intended going to sea February 17.the seventeenth at day-light, but the difficulty we had in purchasing the anchor from the good quality of the bottom, delayed us until the sea breeze set in, so that we could not sail till 18.the eighteenth. We saw while here one sail, and she was steering to the South, between Quibo and the main. On leaving Quibo, we cruized between the Isle Quicara, and Cape Mariatto, till 28.the last day of February; during which time, we killed seven whales; six of which we got along side, and lost one by breaking a drift in the night. We afterwards saw another, but it was so blasted as to be of no use. As the Sun now drew near the equator, and long calms were to be expected, it became necessary for us to reach the Galipagoe Isles before they commenced; where we proposed, (as the whaling business had failed,) to procure salt, for the purpose of salting seal-skins at the Islands of Saint Felix, and Saint Ambrose, in Latitude 26° 15′ South.
The different navigators of these seas have given such various accounts of the passage from hence to the Galipagoes, that it became a matter of some perplexity, to determine which route to be preferred. While we were cruizing between the South end of Quibo and Cape Mariatto, the winds were light and mostly Southerly. They sometimes blew a strong gale through the night, but generally a stiff breeze from North by East, to North by West: but in the day we had pleasant weather. As I could depend on the sailing of the Rattler, I determined on my route March 1.the first of March, and steered away to the Southward in a direct line for the isles.
4.On the fourth day of the same month, being in Latitude 4° North, the winds varied between the South East and South West points, and at intervals blew from the Westward; but when they returned to the Northward, they were very light and of short duration. At this period an innumerable flight of birds accompanied us, and we had turtles in great plenty, but they soon grew scarce; though we continued to take bonnettas, dolphins, porpoises and black-fish in great abundance. The weather then changed to rain with thunder and lightning; and we every day remarked our passing through strong ripplings and veins of currents, all of which run to the West till we made the isles.
March 12.On the twelfth, at break of day, we saw Chatham Isle, and by sun-set came to an anchor in Stephen's bay, near the South West point of the isle in twenty-eight fathom water; the two points of the bay bearing North East and South West, and the Kicker rock, bearing West, North West, at the distance of two miles. We attempted to get into this bay to the Westward of the rock, but as there was little wind, with a current running right out, and no foundings to be got, with fifty fathom of line, till within three quarters of a mile of the shore, and then a rocky bottom, we hauled out to the North, and went in to the Eastward of the Kicker rock, there being regular foundings between it and the bluff, which formed the Eastern point of the bay: the greatest depth between them thirty fathoms, but the deepest water is near the rock.
We lay in this bay till 17.the seventeenth of March, employed in searching for salt, procuring a stock of turtles, and recovering several of the crew, who were afflicted with boils, they were soon restored by the fruit of the molie tree, wild mint tea, and a diet of turtle and teal soup, &c. Our boats traversed all the lee-side of the isle for salt, but without any success; though they discovered several rills of fresh water. One of them proceeded from a bluff which forms the East point of the bay, and others were seen at the bluff at the Eastern part of the isle. The latter were not examined, as the party did not land there; and the former was no more than sufficient to fill a ten gallon cag in a quarter of an hour. As these high bluffs are at the extremity of the low land, the rills must proceed from some bason or lake on the interior high grounds. One of these I afterwards found on a hill which I ascended, from whence the water was entirely drained. On the coast of America, in the dry season, I have seen a long succession of lagoons of this kind, without the smallest drain on the beach below. The head of Stephen's bay possesses the convenience of a small interior cove, with three fathom water, that will hold four or five sail, and where they would be sheltered from all winds. Also a fine sandy beach beneath the rocks, on which a vessel may be hauled on shore, or heave down if occasion should require it; and great abundance of turtles, mullet, and other fish might be caught in a seine. The turtles pass over the rocks, at high water, into salt lagoons to feed. The land is so low in this part of the island, as, at a small distance, to give it the appearance of being divided by a channel of the sea. Near the West part of the isle in a small bay was a part of the wreck of a ship, that appeared to have been but lately cast away, as a whole wale plank was found undecayed. On some of the small isles in this bay, were the largest prickly pear-trees I had ever seen.
After weighing from Stephen's bay, it was with great difficulty we cleared it by night, from the light, variable winds and torrents of rain. When we had got well out, we hove to for day-light, and then made sail for an inlet which bore from our anchoring birth, West by South, to West by North. By noon of the next day, we saw many more isles and islets to the North and Westward of us: and at sun-set, we saw breakers a long way to the Northward and Westward of Lord Hood's isle. Our Latitude at Noon was 0° 31′ 51″ South. We now shortened sail and stood on and off for the night. The next day we found ourselves set considerably to the Southward and Westward; and in sight of Charles Isle, so named by the Buccaneers. March 20.At noon our Latitude was 1° 28′ 13″ South; the extremes of Charles Isle bearing from West 6° North, to West 29° North. In the early part of the evening we got close in with the South end of the island: we then shortened sail, and stood off and on during the night, with the design of going on shore in the morning. This isle is of a moderate height, presents a pleasant aspect, and is surrounded with small islets, the two largest of which I named after the admirals Sir Alan Gardner and Caldwell. There are several sandy beaches on it, and a great number of seals were seen off it. At day-light the current had set us so considerably to the Southward and Westward, as to have lost sight of the island, though we plyed to Windward all the forenoon we gained but little. We got sight, however, of Albemarle Isle, and two smaller ones which lie between it and Charles Isle. I take them to be the Crossman and Brattles Isles of the Buccaneers. March 20.At noon on the twentieth, our Latitude was 1° 23′ South; the extremes of Charles Isle bearing from East 14° North, to East 24° North; and Albemarle isle from North 45° West, to North 10° West; with a small flat isle between them. We saw several spermaceti whales, and gave chase with boats and ship but could not come up with them. We beat off here for forty hours, and lost ground considerably from the current running so strong to the Westward. 21.At noon on the twenty-first, our Latitude was 1° 19′ South, Albemarle Isle bearing from North 20° East, to North 31° West; and Perry Isthmus, North 5° West. By four o'clock in the afternoon, we got within two miles of the South and East end of Albemarle Isle, when we tried for sounding with one hundred fathom of line but found no bottom. The following day, as soon as it was light, we bore up to round the South and West end of Albemarle Isle, called, by the Buccaneers, Christopher's Point. Within a few miles of it, the Latitude was, by observation, 0° 55′ 14″ South. The extremities of Albemarle Isle, bearing from East 22° South, to North 10° East; and of Narborough Isle from North, to North 20° West.
March 23.A large bay opened to our view, which was formed by the South and West points of Albemarle Isle, and the East part of Narborough Isle, having received originally from the Buccaneers the name of Elizabeth Bay. As it is very capacious, we conjectured that we should find good anchorage; I therefore accompanied the chief mate to examine it, but we could find no bottom for two leagues at the distance of a mile or a mile and a half from the shore, with one hundred and fifty fathom of line. The inhospitable appearance of this place was such as I had never before seen, nor had I ever beheld such wild clusters of hillocks, in such strange irregular shapes and forms, as the shore presented, except on the fields of ice near the South Pole. The base appeared to be one entire clinker to a considerable distance from the water-side, and the little verdure that was visible was on the tops of the hills, which were crowned with low, shaggy bushes, that gradually diminished in quantity as they hung down the declivities; and were sometimes divided by veins of an hard, black, shining earth, which, at a small distance, had the appearance of streamlets of water. The storm petrels accompanied us in great numbers: but the wind coming right out with a current or tide, that was so rapid, as to be attended with some degree of danger, we gave up our design of reaching the head of the bay, particularly as night was approaching, and darkness would have overtaken us. When I returned on board, I found the ship laying between two winds, and becalmed within half a mile of the shore, where no bottom could be obtained with one hundred and fifty fathom of line. In this situation we were near an hour, with flaws of wind all round the compass, and heavy showers. At last, we caught a Southerly wind and made sail to the Westward, and when clear of the shore, hove to for the night. The weather was dark and gloomy, with heavy dews and a strong southerly current; so that at day-light we were set nearly as far to the South as we were on the preceding noon. At noon our Latitude was 0° 35′ 6″ South: the extremities of land bearing from North 12° East, to East 37° South. In the evening we got well up with the South end of Narborough Isle, and stood along to the North Westward, by the West shore. The current or tide had now changed its course, and set, from the West and South, to the Northward, directly on that isle, and the night proving calm, with some difficulty we cleared it; for we could not find any bottom at the distance of half a mile from the shore, with one hundred and fifty fathom of line. At the return of day the weather was dark and cloudy, with lightning in the South East. At noon I observed on the Equator, the extreme points of Narborough Isle, bearing from South 21° East, to South 52° East. The North West Cape of Albemarle Isle, (which I have named Cape Berkeley, from the honourable Captain Berkeley), bearing East 4° North, North end East 27° North. The North point of land in sight, bearing East 36° North, and the Rodondo Rock North 5° East, at the distance of five or six leagues.
I sent away a boat in the forenoon to sound a large bay, formed by the North end of Narborough Isle and Berkeley point, (which I have named Banks's Bay in honour of Sir Joseph Banks), or under Berkeley point, in order to discover a place of anchorage: the boat, however, did not get into the bay; but rowed under the North point of Albemarle Isle, where the party landed, and returned in the evening. They found this part of the Isle equally inhospitable as the Southern part of it: but had procured a few rock-cod, with some hump-back turtles, and saw a considerable number of seals.
Narborough Isle is the highest land among the Galipagoe Islands, lying near the center of Albemarle Isle, which almost surrounds it, in the form of two crescents, and making two bays. The apparent point of division of these islands, is so low on both, that I am in doubt whether they are separated. On the next morning we saw spermaceti whales, we killed seven and got them along side; Rock Rodondo bearing East 22° South, the Northernmost land bearing East 18° South, and the South West land bearing South 28° East. The weather was hazy, and the Latitude by observation 00° 27′ 13″ North. Here we cruised till April 8.the eighth of April, and saw spermaceti whales in great numbers, but only killed five, of which we secured four. The current ran so strong to the Westward, and the winds were so light, that after lying to, to secure the whales and cut them up, we were seven days in returning to the ground from whence we drifted. In the winter season, when the winds are more fresh, these difficulties might not occur, otherwise, it would be impossible for any vessel, which was not a very prime sailer, to whale here with success; though at a certain season any quantity of sperm oil might be procured. The oldest whale-fishers, with whom I have conversed, as well as those on board my ship, uniformly declared that they had never seen spermaceti whales in a state of copulation, or squid their principal food in shoals before; but both these objects were very common off these isles, and we frequently killed the latter, of four or five feet in length, with the granes. Young spermaceti whales were also seen in great numbers, which were not larger than a small porpoise. I am disposed to believe that we were now at the general rendezvous of the spermaceti whales from the coasts of Mexico, Peru, and the Gulf of Panama, who come here to calve: as among those we killed, there was but one bull-whale. The situation I recommend to all cruizers, is between the South end of Narborough isle and the Rock Rodondo: though great care must be taken, not to go to the North of the latter; for there the current sets at the rate of four and five miles an hour due North. Narborough Isle falls gradually down to a point at the North, South, and East ends, and may be equal in produce to any of the neighbouring isles; but of this I can only conjecture, as I did not myself examine it; nor does it appear that the Buccaneers ever landed upon it.
The Rodondo is an high barren rock, about a quarter of a mile in circumference, and is visible as far as eight or nine leagues, has soundings round it at the distance of a quarter of a mile thirty fathom. Here our boats caught rock-cod in great abundance. I frequently observed the whales leave these isles and go to the Westward, and in a few days, return with augmented numbers. I have also seen the whales coming, as it were, from the main, and passing along from the dawn of day to night, in one extended line, as if they were in haste to reach the Galipagoes. It is very much to be regretted that these isles have to this period been so little known but only to the Spaniards.
Though we met with so strong a current, it did not discourage us, as we found, by keeping between the North point of Narborough Isle, and North point of Albemarle Isle, and not going to the Northward of the latter, that we were able to maintain our ground; and the hope which now possessed us of making a very successful voyage, dispersed every complaint of bad bread and short allowance, which were no longer considered either with regret or impatience.
April 8.We recovered the fishing ground after having been driven off during four days, and found as great plenty of whales as when we left it. We now saw a ship in shore, who sailed well, and was heavy mettled as we conjectured from the report of a gun. I discovered with the telescope that she was French built, and from the intelligence communicated by the Spaniard we fell in with off the Gulf of Guatamala, on the Coast of Mexico, we had every reason to believe that she was one of the French ships which he mentioned as being in these seas. We kept standing in with the shore to reconnoitre her, having great confidence in the sailing of our own vessel. During the evening, night and morning, we had alternately heavy fogs, light winds and calms. At nine A. M. the weather became clear. I now stood towards the sail, but the nearer I approached the more I suspected her to be an enemy. I then stretched away to the Southward, when she carried everything after us, and getting a strong Northerly breeze, which she brought up with her, over-reached us very fast. 9.We made all the sail we could from her, (our Latitude at noon 0° 19′ 52″ North) but I entertained little or no hope of escaping: we therefore cut down the stern, in order to get out two threepounders, which were all the great guns we had, and put ourselves in the best posture of defence in our power. Finding at four o'clock in the afternoon that she still gained ground upon us, but would not be able to get up with us till it was dark, we all agreed to a man, to heave to, and if she proved an enemy, to board her; as such a desperate proceeding would be altogether unexpected, we thought it would afford some of us a better chance of escaping, than by a more regular engagement. As to myself, death, in almost any shape would have been far preferable than falling again into the hands of the Spaniards. By sun-set, however, the ship joined us, and proved, after all our alarm and preparations, to be the Butterworth of London, Mr. Sharp, from a trading voyage on the North West Coast of America, and lately from California. We were right in our conjecture concerning her appearance, as she was taken from the French in the last war. She had been searching for water in these isles but had found none; and was bound to the Marquises for it, with only seven butts on board; a route of near eight hundred leagues, when there were so many places within two days sail, where she might have found it. Mr. Sharp had sixty tons of salt in bulk, for the purpose of salting skins; and on the coast of California, he had procured an hundred tons of oil from the sea lion and sea elephant; and he added, that he also might have procured ten thousand tons of oil from the same animals, if he had possessed a sufficient number of casks to have contained it.
I recommended him to proceed to James's Isle, and offered him a copy of a chart, which I had received from Mr. Stephens, which would direct him to the watering place, described by the Buccaneers, whose information I had no reason to doubt: but if he had no faith in it, he might go to Isle Cocas or Quibo, where I had procured plenty; but no persuasion of mine, however, had any weight, as his principal object appeared to be that I should accompany him. In addition to my other inclinations to render him every service in my power, the several acts of civility I had received from Mr. Perry of Blackwall, one of his owners, had the greatest weight with me; and understanding his intention was also to continue in company to our arrival in England, I undertook to shew him the way into port.
In consequence of light winds, thick weather and strong Northerly currents, we were driven as far North as 1° 5′, and saw Culpepper's Isle, which is to a considerable height, though it is of small extent, but the weather was so hazy, and we were at such a distance, that I am not qualified to give a further account of it.
Though our ships were excellent sailors, we were fifteen days in getting into James's Bay; they alternately had the advantage of each other; but the Rattler was entirely out of trim, the fore-hold being filled with oil. The Butterworth had so far got the advantage to windward, as, at one time, to be within a few miles of the anchoring ground; and we could only see her top-gallant sails; she bore up to join us again, with only three butts of water on board. At this time we were close under Abington Isle, which is very small, and was well known to the Buccaneers; and, according to my observation, is in Latitude 0° 33′ North, and Longitude 90° 45′. It is high towards the South end, which has a very pleasant appearance, and where is the only bay or anchoring place in the island. The North end is low, barren, and one entire clinker, with breakers stretching out to a considerable distance. I sent a party in the boat to round it, where they caught plenty of small fish with their hook and line. They also landed on the island and found both tortoises and turtles. This day we also saw Bindloes Isle, which is a small, rugged spot, laying to the Southward and Eastward of Abington Isle, and about six miles mid-way between it and James's Isle.
April 24.On the twenty-fourth, in the very early part of the afternoon, we came to an anchor at the North end of James's Isle, a little to the South of Fresh-water bay, where the Butterworth followed us; Albany Isle bearing North 34° West; bottom of the bay East 17° South; South point of James's Isle, on with Cowley's enchanted Isle, and South part of Albemarle Isle South 24° West; North point of Albemarle Isle West 25° North.
As soon as the ship was secured, I set out with Mr. Sharp to search for water in Fresh-water bay, where the Buccaneers had formerly supplied themselves, but the surf prevented us from landing. We rowed close to the beach, but saw not the least signs of any spring or rivulet. Boats were dispatched from both the vessels to different parts of the shore; and my chief mate was sent away to the South for a night and a day. On the following morning at dawn of day, the whaling-master was ordered to land if the surf was fallen, and search Fresh-water bay. He accomplished getting on shore, but found no water; and in the evening, the chief mate returned with the same account of his unsuccessful errand. For my own part, I never gave up my opinion that there was plenty of water in the isle; but as neither of my boats were in a condition to encounter the least bad weather, I deferred taking a survey of the isle till they were repaired.
Though we sent the Buttersworth daily supplies of water, I did not foresee the consequence of our generosity; for from that moment, the commander never gave himself the least concern to look for any; but employed his crew in cutting a very large quantity of wood, and stocking himself with land tortoise privately, from a spot which we agreed should remain sacred, till we were ready for sailing, and then share our stock together. Indeed I not only supplied Mr. Sharp with water, but may be said also to have added to his food; for he did not know that the tortoise was an wholesome eatable till I informed him of it.
As I had at this time many reasons to doubt his continuing long in company with me, and in case of separation the Rattler had no boat belonging to her calculated to bring water any distance, it awakened my precaution to provide for any unforeseen accident should it befall us respecting that necessary article. I determined therefore, to supply him monthly throughout our voyage, and this information of this arrangement produced a better effect than I expected, as it stimulated him to search for water, which he found within two miles of his ship.
After anchoring and his present wants being accommodated, he varied so in his future plans, to his former ones proposed, that I could not comprehend he had any fixed one at all; and his conduct in general not corresponding to my ideas or expectations, I had only to lament, that after putting myself to so great an inconvenience, there was so little probability that it would be attended with any advantage to his employers. Finding my advice of no farther use I sailed without him.
As soon as a boat was repaired, I set out to survey the South East part of this and Albemarle Isle. On reaching the South point of James's Isle, I got sight of three other isles which I had not seen before, nor can I trace them in the Buccaneers accounts, no more than the isle which we saw to Westward, when at anchor in Stephens's bay, Chatham Isle. These three isles now seen, I named after the admirals Barrington, Duncan, and Jarvis. The two Northernmost, which are nearest to James's Isle, are the highest, and presented the most agreeable appearance, being covered with trees. The Southernmost, which I named Barrington Isle, is the largest and was the greatest distance from me, it is of a moderate height, and rises in hummocks; the South end is low, running on a parallel with the water's edge. We did not land on either of them. In this expedition we saw great numbers of penguins, and three or four hundred seals. There were also small birds, with a red breast, such as I have seen at the New Hebrides; and others resembling the Java sparrow, in shape and size, but of a black plumage; the male was the darkest, and had a very delightful note. At every place where we landed on the Western side, we might have walked for miles, through long grass and beneath groves of trees. It only wanted a stream to compose a very charming landscape. This isle appears to have been a favourite resort of the Buccaneers, as we not only found seats, which had been made by them of earth and stone, but a considerable number of broken jars scattered about, and some entirely whole, in which the Peruvian wine and liquors of that country are preserved. We also found some old daggers, nails and other implements. This place is, in every respect, calculated for refreshment or relief for crews after a long and tedious voyage, as it abounds with wood, and good anchorage, for any number of ships, and sheltered from all winds by Albemarle Isle. The watering-place of the Buccaneers was entirely dried up, and there was only found a small rivulet between two hills running into the sea; the Northernmost of the hill forms the South point of Fresh-water bay. Though there is a great plenty of wood, that which is near the shore, is not large enough for any purpose, but to use as fire-wood. In the mountains the trees may be of a larger size, as they grow to the summit of them. I do not think that the watering-place which we saw, is the only one on the island; and I have no doubt, if wells were dug any where beneath the hills, that it would be found in great plenty; they must be made, however, at some distance from the sandy beach, as within a few yards behind them, is a large lagoon of salt water, from three to eight feet in depth, which rises and falls with the tide; and in a few hours a channel might be cut into it. The woods abound with tortoises, doves, and guanas, and the lagoons with teal. The earth produces wild mint, sorrel, and a plant resembling the cloth-tree of Otaheite and the Sandwich Isles, whose leaves are an excellent substitute for the China tea, and was indeed preferred to it by my people as well as myself. There are many other kinds of trees, particularly the moli-tree, mentioned by Mr. Falkner, and the algarrooa, but that which abounds, in a superior degree, is the cotton tree. There is great plenty of every kind of fish that inhabit the tropical Latitudes; mullet, devil-fish, and green turtle were in great abundance. But all the luxuries of the sea, yielded to that which the island afforded us in the land tortoise, which in whatever way it was dressed, was considered by all of us as the most delicious food we had ever tasted. The fat of these animals when melted down, was equal to fresh butter; those which weighed from thirty to forty pounds, were the best, and yielded two quarts of fat: some of the largest, when standing on their feet, measured near a yard from the lower part of the neck. As they advance in age their shell becomes proportionably thin, and I have seen them in such a state, that a pebble would shatter them. I salted several of the middle size, with some of the eggs, which are quite round, and as big as those of a goose, and brought them to England. The most extraordinary animal in this island is the sea guana, which, indeed abounds in all these isles. We did not see the land guana in any of the isles but James's, and it differs from that which I have seen on the coast of Guinea, in having a kind of comb on the back of its neck.
These isles deserve the attention of the British navigators beyond any unsettled situation: but the preference must be given to James's Isle, as it is the only one we found sufficient fresh water at to supply a small ship. But Chatham Isle being one of the Southernmost, I recommend to be the first made, in order to ascertain the ship's true situation, in which you may be otherwise mistaken, from the uncertain and strong currents, as well as the thick weather which is so prevalent there. As it stands by itself there is no danger, and in Stephens's bay, thirty or forty sail may ride in safety, besides those which might go into the cove. Vessels bound round Cape Horn to any part North of the Equator, or whalers on their voyage to the North or South Pacific Ocean, or the Gulf of Panama, will find these islands very convenient places for refitting and refreshment. They would also in future serve as a place of rendezvous for British fishing ships, as they are contiguous to the best fishing grounds.
- ↑ Viz. The green Trochus, the black Buccinum, Buccinum Morus Patula, and Subula, together with the Strombo, Tuberen, Latus and Patalla, not before well known to collectors in conchology.