Fancy dresses described/Appendix

by Ardern Holt

APPENDIX.

GIRLS' AND BOYS' FANCY COSTUMES.

Juvenile Fancy Balls are much the fashion, and the current is setting towards all that is quaint and picturesque. Some of the best dresses worn by young people are suggested by the illustrated books, fairy tales, and other works of fiction, specially written for them.

Among suitable costumes for little girls are Rainbow, Air, Puritan, Fille de Madame Angot, Portia, Alphabet, Babes in the Wood, Little Bayadere, Beauty, Bertrade, Bee, Wasp, Bo-peep, Gipsy, Buy-a-broom, Charity Girl, Charlotte Corday, Children of Charles I. (see Charles), Cinderella, College Girl, Columbine, Daffy-down-Dilly, Diablotin, Dolly Varden, Dresden China, Evangeline, Fairy, Fatima, Fish-girls, Flower-girls, Folly, Germaine, Serpolette, Grace Darling, Mother Hubbard, Harvest, Harlequinette, Jill, Ladybird, Magpie, Maid Marian, Maiden-all-Forlorn, Mary-Mary-Quite-Contrary, May Queen, Milkmaid, My-pretty-Maid, Naiad, Undine, Nancy Lee, Lady-of-Olden-Time, Preciosa, Quakeress, Rat-catcher, Reading, Reaper, Red Riding-Hood, One-of-the-Rising-Generation, Characters after Sir Joshua Reynolds, The Seasons, Shepherdess, Witch, Spinning-girl, Tambourine-girl, Lady Teazle, Titania, Olivia and Sophia Primrose, Vivandières, Watteau dresses, Welsh, and White Cat; particulars of which will be found under the several letters in the body of the book.

The costumes we have described in the Introduction as capable of being made at home for gentlemen will apply equally well for boys. Some of the most effective dresses worn by boys, especially those of tender years, have been exact copies of Napoleon, the Lord Mayor, the Lord Chancellor, the Lord Chief Justice of England, &c.

ALICE IN WONDERLAND. The characters in this popular tale are greatly in favour with children. Alice is dressed in low bodiced white muslin short frock with sash. The Lion and Unicorn as faithful copies of their pictures. The March Hare in a brown coat and waistcoat, with hare's head and feet. White Rabbit in a check suit, with rabbit's head and feet. Cheshire Cat in a coat of chinchilla. The Duchess in a pale rose-coloured over-dress with lilac front trimmed with ermine; large head-dress of ermine; pendent veil. The Rose in satin rose leaves mounted as a Mother Hubbard hat; and the bodice and skirt like rose leaves; sleeves and bodice, green satin. Lily, the flower for head-dress; bodice and skirt of yellow silk, brown border to skirt. The Caterpillar is cleverly adapted from Tenniel's sketches, with green cap, and leg coverings like a caterpillar. The Chess Men are faithful copies of the pieces in chess. Cards, after those in the pack. (See Q, for Queens of the Pack.) Kings, with gold crowns, velvet robes, and the insignias of the suits.

ARCITE (Chaucer). Juste-au-corps of brown moire antique; gold belt; dark blue trunk hose.

ASTROLOGER. Long velvet toga, with wide hanging sleeves, bordered with satin, bearing the signs of the zodiac in gold; high pointed velvet cap, entwined with a gold snake; wizard's wand, large spectacles, book, and telescope; long pointed shoes.

BABY BUNTING. Suitable for a very small child, who wears a tunic and cap combined, with upstanding ears, and an under-dress all made of white fur.

BABY OPERA (By Walter Crane). The costumes in this are very suitable for children. Musicians in tabards, the stockings of two colours; shoes, square toed. King Cole: Fat burly figure; loose brown dress; flowing robe, with ermine; large beard, and regal cap. Boy: Trousers to knee; loose shirt; hat with band round; trumpet in hand. Girls and Boys at Play: The girls in hats; low bodices, slashed sleeves; long plain skirts, sometimes with coloured apron and kerchief Charity Girls in blue frocks, with caps and tippets. Mrs. Bond: Poke bonnet; short sleeves; coloured handkerchief; chintz dress. Jack Horner: Blue cap; slashed jacket, with three rows of buttons; breeches. Bo-peep: Blue apron; chintz dress; crook in hand.

BABES IN THE WOOD. The girl wears an evening dress of green and white tulle, with over-skirt of silver-spangled tulle, covered with autumn leaves, garlands of foliage, and robins; the hair hanging down, head encircled by a wreath of leaves. The boy has long red stockings and puffed trunks striped with blue; a close-fitting red jerkin, cut in tabs at the waist; the tight sleeves with epaulettes also cut in tabs; round cap; materials velvet and satin.

BEAU, OLD FASHIONED (See Plate XV., Fig. 59). Long skirted coat; silk stockings, high boots, breeches, and waistcoat; hat, and stick; watch and seals.

BEAST. (Fairy Prince, as worn by Duke of Connaught at Marlborough House Ball.) Ruby velvet doublet; grey satin tights; ruby shoes; a leopard's skin, with claws attached to shoulders with jewels; small round ruby cap and feather.

BEAUTY, SLEEPING. Long robe of white and silver trimmed with pearls; pearl girdle; hair flowing.

BEAUTY (In Beauty and the Beast) in the Fairy-tale Quadrille, at Marlborough House, wore a white tulle dress, full bodice, belt, and pendent sleeves; a classic robe of soft cashmere trimmed with gold is also suitable

BECKFORD, MASTER HORACE (From Cosway's Picture). High hat and feathers; hair hanging down in curls; tight jacket and breeches; with lace collar and turn back cuffs; silk stockings and shoes; scarves tied round leg, with bows on outside of leg; stick in hand.

BEEF-EATER (or Yeoman of the Guard). Long-skirted scarlet Tudor coat, trimmed with black velvet and gold, crown and Tudor rose embroidered on breast; close plaited muslin ruff at throat; full sleeves to wrist; low-crowned black velvet hat, blue, red, and white ribbons round; rosettes of the same on black shoes and at the knees of breeches; red stockings; sword in belt, halberd carried in hand.

BETTY, LADY. Large hat, with upstanding brim and five red feathers; short princesse dress, with square bodice; long cloak from shoulders; large green parasol. BIRDS, such as parrots, canaries, love-birds, and others, are very suitable for children. They have all been described under their several heads, in the body of the book.

BLUEBEARD. Flowing Eastern robe; red silk turban; scarf of many colours round waist; loose silk trousers to ankle, one yellow the other red; red pointed shoes; beard, blue; carries key.

BOY BLUE. Dressed as Gainsborough's Blue Boy. Black shoes, with large blue rosettes; the same at knee; blue stockings and velvet breeches; close-fitting jacket, buttoning in front; blue cloak, fastened to shoulders, bordered with gold braid; the sleeves to wrist, with Vandyke lace cuffs, and slashed twice inside the arm, showing white under-sleeve; large lace collar; plumed hat; hair curled.

BUCKINGHAM, JOHN VILLIERS, FIRST DUKE OF, DAUGHTER OF (after Gerard Hornthorst). White satin dress with a Medici ruff of point lace, the puff sleeves edged with tiny lace ruffles and taken in with pink ribbons tied into bows; waistband and front bow are formed of ribbons of the same colour; the bell-shaped under-skirt is, like the bodice, arranged in narrow plaits, and the over-skirt opens in front. The latter appears, in the original at Hampton Court, to be made of silver-striped gauze or muslin, which could be replaced by rose-coloured silk or velvet; strings of pearls form the necklace and the armlets, and a chain of jet beads hangs across the bust.

BUNTHORN (Patience). Velvet jacket and breeches; large flat velvet cap, with wig of long hair beneath; velvet shoes, and silk stockings.

BUTTERFLY (For child of two to three). Short skirt of blue foulard, with an over-skirt of gauze; low bodice, with a waistband fastened in front with bows; two wings are attached to the middle of back, made of gauze, edged with fine wire; silk stockings; blue satin boots. Or, Canndian Butterfly: Bodice of green plush elongated into a point which falls on to the short yellow tulle skirt; short, puffed sleeves; gauze wings at back forming tunic; butterfly on head; green gloves and shoes with butterflies; butterfly fan. (See Coloured Illustration, Plate XVI.)

CANACE (Chaucer). Dress of terra cotta silk, close fitting; long pointed shoes of old gold satin; hair plaited round the ear; silver coronet; gold veil; falcon on wrist.

CAVALIER DRESS (For boy, after Von Hughenburg). Dutch type. Broad-brimmed Flemish hat, with ostrich feathers; doublet and waistcoat; breeches to knee; sword-belt crossing bodice; tie at throat; hat and plumes; shoes with bows; gauntlet gloves.

CHARLES I. AND HIS CAVALIERS. Doublet and loose full trunks of velvet, slashed with satin; pointed shoes or large cavalier boots, wide at top, edged with a fall of lace; velvet shoulder-cloaks; Vandyke lace collars and cuffs; large plumed hats; hair in curls. The king wears his blue ribbon, and star on breast.

CHERRY RIPE, in large mob cap, muslin dress and fichu, with ribbon sash, and mittens, after Millais's picture.

CHRISTMAS, FATHER. Long loose robe of white, red, or brown, the shoulders covered with tufts of frosted wadding; a belt round waist; wallet, staff, white hair and beard; holly wreath.

CLOWN (Ordinary). Black or white shoes, white stockings with blue or red clocks; short white calico trousers with frills at knee, and close-fitting dress fantastically ornamented with blue and red; face painted white, triangular patches of red on either cheek, very red lips; close curling stiff red point from back of head, which shakes at every movement. (In Louis XV's reign). Loose trousers to knee; full jacket with large collar, confined at waist by belt; sleeves to wrist, . with pendent ones over the hand, all made in white cotton or merino piped with red, and large red buttons in front; white felt pointed hat, with coloured ribbons.

COCK ROBIN. Short brown pleated skirt, with rows of Marabout feathers; round bodice with pointed basque a the back, like the tail of a bird, made of feathers or plush red waistcoat, high collar; red necktie; cap with a peak as much like a bird's head as possible.

CONSCRIPT. Long kid gaiters fastened with buttons to the knee; yellow breeches with gold embroidery at the pockets; red cloth coat with yellow epaulettes, cuffs, and facings; Lancer cap. COLE, KING. (See Baby Opera.)

COLUMBINE. Pink silk stockings, white satin shoes; tulle skirt, short and full; cuirass bodice bordered with flowers; wreath of flowers in hand.

COOK, BOY. All in white; shoes, stockings, knee-breeches; loose blouse, with frilled collar; round cap; apron, the corner tucked in at waist.

CUPID. Dress of blue and silver gauze, smothered in roses; bow and arrow, and silver gauze wings.

CURLY LOCKS. This should be adopted by a child with hair in ringlets. She wears a blue frock with white quilted front, and large lace collar.

DICK TURPIN. Scarlet coat and waistcoat, with gold braid and buttons; lace cravat and ruffles; high jack-boots; leather breeches; three-cornered hat and flowing wig; belt and pistols.

DUTCH FISHER BOY. Wooden shoes; full breeches, coarse knitted stockings; striped blouse; red tie and cap. (See Plate XVI., Fig. 62.)

FAIRY. (See description in body of book, and Illustration, Plate XVI., Fig. 61.)

FRANCIS I. A flat-brimmed cap, sometimes jewelled, and always bordered with an ostrich feather; doublet of plain or figured silk, with slashed puff sleeves to the elbow, and tight to the wrist; over the doublet a breastplate as part armour; Norman chausses or hose, striped and fitting exactly to the limbs; broad-toed shoes with slashed tips.

FERAMOZ (Poet of Cashmere). White gauze and silver turban, with jewels; satin jacket embroidered, having hanging-over sleeves; under-vest and sleeves of brocade; full white lawn shirt, showing Indian scarf round waist; velvet breeches, with silver buttons to the knee; silk stockings, small low shoes; a guitar in hand.

FIANCÉ, VILLAGE (Boy). Striped blue and white silk trousers, silk stockings of a darker shade of blue; black shoes with buckles; red silk waistcoat; white shirt; dark blue cloth jacket, with revers and large buttons; large bouquet of flowers, fastened to the jacket with a bunch of ribbons; high

 

XVI

MALTESE WATER CARRIER		BUTTERFLY
RED RIDING HOOD		GOBLIN

collar; silk necktie; grey hat trimmed with blue ribbons and aigrette; cane in hand.

FIGARO (Barber of Seville). Dark green velvet Spanish jacket embroidered in silver; white satin waistcoat; green velvet breeches with pink ribbons; pink sash with silver fringe, and necktie; Spanish hat; pink bows on shoes, white silk stockings; mandoline in hand.

FLY COSTUME FOR BOY OF FOUR. Golden yellow satin skirt, ornamented with black braid and studded with small gauze flies. The short upper skirt forms a sort of long basque, and is sewn to the waistband; rows of gold braid across the high bodice, and round the short sleeves; loose jacket ornamented with gauze; fly in the centre of back, and smaller ones in front; black velvet toque, with gold band round, a gold fly fastening down aigrette.

GAINSBOROUGH (after Lady Barbara Yelverton). A plain white muslin gown, with short sleeves, having ruches at the neck and elbows of rose-coloured or blue ribbons; a large sash of corresponding colour tied round the waist; an elaborately-trimmed lace cap. Suitable for a girl of ten.

GARIBALDI. Red shirt and grey trousers, with silver stripe; large felt hat with ostrich feather.

GOBLIN. Tight-fitting justaucorps of red; red Vandyke tunic; winged hood with cape; fork in hand. (See Coloured Plate XVI.)

GREEK (Boy). White plaited fustanetta, or petticoat, wide silk belt, ornamented with gold; short embroidered vest, buttoned at throat; jacket; full trousers to knee, and gaiters; fez; dagger stuck in belt. Made in satin, cashmere, or cloth.

GREEK GIRL'S DRESS. Skirt of wood-coloured llama or nun's veiling, braided with gold; green velvet jacket, slashed and edged with gold braid; flowing muslin sleeves; necklet of gold leaves; hair in plaits; small round cap.

GRENADIER (1760). High white gaiters buttoned to knee; blue coat turned back with red; red cuff's; white waistcoat and breeches; red and white pointed cap; sword; hair in pigtail. (See Plate XVI., Fig. 63.)

GREENAWAY, KATE. Reproductions of little people after this charming artist are much in favour at children's Fancy Balls. For girls, narrow skirts with one deep flounce and puffings, showing the sandalled shoes; very short waists; turn-down frills at neck; short sleeves, having one puff. Boys, long trousers, buttoning over the jacket; large linen collar, frilled, &c. The current in fancy dress is decidedly setting toward all that is quaint and picturesque, and savours of what we are pleased to call old English. Some of the most successful costumes worn by children of late have been copied from Kate Greenaway's "Birthday-Book," &c. Little figures, in plain short skirts; tunics open in front, and looped up at the sides; square bodices, elbow-sleeves, and powdered hair; James I. and Elizabethan periods. Miss Roundabout, and the Schoolboy—all these are excellent.

HAMLET. Long black cloth cloak; scalloped black velvet jerkin trimmed with jet, black velvet sword-belt, and bonnet with black plume; black silk tights, black velvet shoes slashed with satin.

HARLEQUINETTE. (See Illustration XV., Fig. 60, and descriptions in body of book.)

HEARTS, KING OF. Red and white striped stockings; blue justaucorps, cut in points, and covered with hearts; a large satin collar, in shape of two hearts; red cap, with hearts; tight and hanging sleeves; sceptre with hearts.

HEARTS, QUEEN OF. Red velvet princess dress with hearts, square cut at neck; sceptre in one hand, bouquet in other; pointed cap.

HENRY VI. wears a felt hood or bonnet, with short tippet and single feather; a doublet of braided silk, cut round even with the shoulders, a separate scarf covering the latter; loose sleeves, trimmed with fur; tight hose; high boots of brown leather, long-toed and spurred.

HERALD. White felt hat with feather; the tabard coat yellow, green, or blue, with the arms embroidered in gold or silver, and a shoulder jacket of contrasting colour; tight silk hose; trousers striped or parti-coloured; and a trumpet.

HIGHLAND PIPER. Boots, white gaiters, plaid stockings; kilted skirt; sporran; uniform coat; plaid, fastened with brooch on left shoulder; bagpipes.

INCROYABLE. Short-waisted long brown coat, with wide lapels; yellow satin waistcoat; cloth breeches having

57. Pillar Post.		58. Puritan.
59. Old Fashioned Beau.		60. Harlequinette.

blue ties at knee; striped stockings and shoes; a watch and watch-chain hanging at both sides; lace frills at wrist and neck; large necktie; cocked hat.

IRISH CAR DRIVER. Green coat patched with cloth, brass buttons; brocaded waistcoat; drab breeches with patches; high collar, and red tie; blue darned stockings; leather shoes; hat trimmed with green and sprigs of shamrock.

ITALIAN. Stockings crossed over with coloured ribbon; blue cloth breeches, buckled at the side; a leather waistcoat fastened with silver, steel or leather buttons, and cut low and straight, showing the shirt; a short jacket ordered with gold, and a pointed hat with ribbons; coins and amulets. The Pifferari in addition, have a long brown caped cloak, and carry their musical pipes. The Italian Fishermen of Naples and Barri, Masaniello, &c., are represented with silk tights, striped trousers rolled up well over the knee; a shirt of the same, open at the neck to show gold charms; ear-rings in the ears; a red or brown cap; and a brown jacket slung from the shoulders; a scarf round waist.

JACK HORNER. Blue breeches; a long waistcoat; long-skirted red coat, with gold buttons down the front, and on the wide turn-back cuffs and pockets; a black tricorn hat bordered with gold braid; a plum dangling from the watch-chain.

JACK (JACK AND JILL). Smock frock and round felt hat. Or, breeches and long waistcoat, long-skirted coat of velvet, cambric shirt, velvet cape, ruff at throat, red rosette on each cuff and corner of coat. (See Jill.)

JAMES EDWARD, PRINCE, SON OF JAMES II. (after N. de Largilliere). He died in Paris, 1746. The costume of the Prince of Wales resembles the one worn by courtiers towards the end of Charles II's reign. Wig formally curled, and no longer flowing; three-corned hat, low in the crown and wide in the brim, with feather edging; a neckcloth or cravat of Brussels or Flanders lace, tied in a knot under the chin, the ends hanging down square; short doublet or coat of dark green, blue, or drab cloth, with buttons and buttonholes all down the front, the cuffs and pockets similarly adorned; the skirts of the coat terminating above the knees, and its sleeves reaching to the elbows, with shirt sleeves bulging out, ruffed and adorned profusely with ribbons and lace; short trousers of dark velvet, loose to the knees, with a fringe of lace or a cambric edging; blue or scarlet silk stockings, with silver clocks; high-heeled, lace-edged shoes, with diminutive buckles in front, fastening a lace bow to the instep.

PRINCESS LOUISA MARIA, DAUGHTER OF JAMES II. (after N. de Largillière). A quaint and formal costume. The hair, which under Charles II. had been permitted to fall in natural ringlets upon the shoulders, is covered with a tower head-dress, or conwiode, in three tiers of lace, ribbons, and ruches; the waist is confined in a pointed bodice of silk, cut square, with a lace stomacher in front; short sleeves, with a cuff and lace bow at the elbow, leave the forearm bare; the black silk petticoat is covered in front with a lace apron; and an ample over-skirt, with long train made of coloured damask, falls from the shoulders.

JESTER, FOOL, AND FOLLY. Pointed shoes; tights, the legs of different colours; parti-coloured short full trunks; close-fitting habit with basque cut in points bordered with gold, a bell at each point; sleeves with the same points and bells; hood, with cape of two colours, also cut in points; a fool's bauble in the hand. Red and blue is the usual mixture, also green and gold, amber and blue, amber and violet.

JOCRISSE. Jacket and knee breeches of puce-coloured satin; waistcoat of strawberry plush; buckled shoes; silk Madras handkerchief round the throat, high linen collar; gold buttons; puce felt hat.

JOCKEY. Top-boots; satin breeches; jacket and cap of two colours; whip in hand.

JOHN BULL. Top-boots and breeches; long coat; low-crowned hat.

JOHN, LITTLE. Green cloth doublet trimmed with squirrel fur; green breeches slashed with satin; white and green satin sleeves, under the pendent ones belonging to a doublet of green silk; green stockings and buckskin shoes; green velvet cap with eagle feather; hunting-horn and knife.

KING (Sing a Song of Sixpence). Long flowing mantle trimmed with gold braid or fur; puffed satin dress; breeches and silk stockings below; diadem on head. MALTA, KNIGHT OF. Silk shoes and stockings; black puffed trousers and jacket with ruff; red round cloak to waist, bordered gold braid, a cross on either side; flowing hair, hat, and feather. A ruff and cloak over boy's ordinary dress would suffice, if a saving of time and trouble be an object.

MALTESE WATER-CARRIER (Boy). Sabots, blue stockings, white trousers; red silk sash; blue jersey, striped jacket, red cap barrel; and cup. (See Coloured Plate XVI.)

MARLBOROUGH, DUKE OF. Full wig; large lace neckcloth; hanging cuffs and ruffles; square-cut coat and long-flapped waistcoat; a sash over the right shoulder; blue or scarlet silk stockings, with gold or silver clocks, drawn high up over the knee; square-toed shoes, with high heels and small buckles.

MARQUIS, LOUIS XVI. Blue velvet coat and breeches embroidered in gold; lace sleeves and cravat; white satin vest embroidered in gold; three-cornered hat edged with gold lace, having white plume; shoes with diamond buckles; sword.

MARQUIS, OF CARABAS. Tights; velvet shoes; velvet dress bordered with gold; belt round waist; hanging sleeves; large hat and feather.

MASHER. Suitable for a boy of very tender years, who appears in the exact counterpart of a man's dress suit.

MEPHISTOPHELES (Faust). Silk tights, full short trunks round hips; tight-fitting habit; short cloak attached to shoulders; a cap with two upstanding feathers like horns. This is generally carried out entirely in red velvet, or in scarlet satin and black velvet.

MERCURY. Mantle attached to shoulders, and drawn through the girdle at the waist; peplum and skirt all made in white veiling; caduces carried in the hand; sandals laced up the leg; wings on the cap and heels.

MERE MICHEL (French Mother Hubbard). Gown of flowered chintz; white linen apron; check handkerchief about the neck; white muslin cap; spectacles; blue stockings; feather broom in hand.

MIGNON OF THE COURT OF HENRY III. A capital dress, and easily made for a young boy. Black shoes, white stockings; full knickerbockers to the knee; a blouse, confined at the waist by a belt, long full sleeves to wrist; a shoulder-cloak, and round cap made of striped satin or calico; a close muslin ruff at the throat.

MISS MUFFET. Pale blue dress trimmed with gold lace; spider in cap.

MONK. Long brown ample robe, with wide sleeves, and a cord round the waist. The Franciscans have a small cape and hood; the Capuchins' cape is as large as that of an Inverness wrapper. Rosary at side.

MUSICIANS. (See Baby Opera.)

NIGHT AND MORNING (Boy). Half black, half white satin tights, juste-au-corps, and round hat; the face half black, the hair powdered on one side; one glove black one white; the same with shoes.

NURSERY RHYMES. See description in body of book.

OLDEN TIME, GENTLEMAN OF. Silk stockings; shoes with buckles; knee breeches; very long flowered waistcoat, with flap pockets; long coat, steel buttons, and ruffles; a frill to shirt; bald head or white hair; a stick in the hand.

PAGE (The Betrothed). Tights; long skirted habit; sleeves with double puffs, slashed from elbow; wide lace collar. (Temp. Charles I.) Velvet coat and breeches, with ribbon rosettes; silk stockings, shoes with bows; Vandyke collar and cuffs; satin-lined coat; large hat and feather; all to be of the one tone. (Temp. Elizabeth.) Silk stockings; trunks; satin habit and shoulder-cloak, elaborately braided; ruff and low-crowned hat.

PANGLOSS, DR. A black velvet suit in the Georgian style, with long skirted coat and waistcoat; white wig and spectacles.

PAUL PRY. High boots, trousers of red and white striped calico, tucked into them; waistcoat to match, with large watch and chain, powdered bag-wig, blue tail-coat and brass buttons, umbrella under arm.

PICARDY, PEASANT OF. National head-dress—a broad silk ribbon gaily embroidered, ruched with muslin on top and bottom, and stretched over a shape of cardboard; white chemise, with a broad-belted and embroidered bodice of black velvet over it; red or blue petticoat, bordered with gold or silver leaves; lace trimmed white apron and striped stockings.

PIEMAN, in white suit and apron; cook's white cap.

PILLAR POST. (See Illustration, Plate XV., Fig. 57, and description in body of book.)

PIRATES OF PENZANCE. Frederick. In undress uniform. One of the Daughters, dress high to throat, with ruff, belt at waist; high mob cap. Pirate King, cocked hat; coat with epaulettes; plaited petticoat and loose under-bodice; belt with pistols; stockings, and shoes; banner with death's head and cross-bones. Ruth, short embroidered gown, sash of many colours round waist; black, gold embroidered Senorita jacket; cap with sequins; armlets and bracelets united by chains. Samuel, similar dress to Pirate King, only a sailor's cap instead of cocked hat; sailor's collar, and no epaulettes. Mabel, short plaited skirt; tunic bordered with frilling, bunch of flowers at side; fichu, short sleeves, reticule at side; huge hat and feather. Kate, similar dress without tunic. Sergeant of Police in policeman's uniform. (See page 180.)

PROSPERO. Long black velvet robe trimmed with sable and gold, made with long hanging sleeves, scarlet under sleeves, barred with gold; large collar facings of scarlet and black with hieroglyphic signs; skull cap similarly bordered; flowing grey wig, beard and moustache; red stockings, pointed shoes.

PUNCHINELLE (For Boy). Bodice and tunic in yellow satin, striped with black bands, bound with gold; skirt of red velveteen; red pompons and belt; black lace ruflles, cuffs and basque glittering with gold; red and black hat with gold spangles and tufted plume; wooden shoes.

PURITAN BOY. Brown velvet breeches; brown cloth coat and cloak; white tippet; felt hat. (See Plate XV., Fig. 58.)

PUSS IN BOOTS. Cat's head and bodice; groom's coat made of white fur with leather belt; top boots.

QUADRILLES AND DANCES. Besides the fancy quadrilles described in the introductory chapter, at children's Fancy Balls there might be such innovations as a sheet and pillow-case party, the wearers disguised in white drapery; a phantom party, habited in long white robes like monks, a cord about the waist, and a pointed cap hiding the face all but the eyes. Tableaux by children might open the proceedings, such as the "Old Woman who lived in a Shoe," "A Neapolitan Wedding," "Dream of Fair Women," "The Courts of the Gods," &c. The Lithuanienne is a good dance for such balls; so is "The Old Woman's Children," who dance round her, she spurring them with her broom, till at last, throwing off her disguise, she appears as a Spanish dancer. The Minuet, the May -pole Dance, the Swedish Dance, and the Tempete Swing Valse, are all excellent, and have met with great success "here and in America. It is a good plan for a certain number of children to appear in the characters of one special fairy tale.

RED RIDING-HOOD. Blue silk, quilted skirt; black velvet bodice; red cloak; muslin pinafore; head-dress, corn-flowers. (See R, in body of book.) Or, red shoes, blue stockings; striped red and white shirt; white apron; red hood and cape; blue bodice laced in front; flowers in hand, and basket of eggs. (See Coloured Plate XVI.)

REYNOLDS, after SIR JOSHUA. For little boys there is a good dress in "Feeding the Chickens;" black shoes with black bows; red stockings; blue petticoat with blue band; white high pinafore with red sash, made with a wide falling collar, bordered with a frill; sleeves to elbow; a red bow at throat. Another, in "Doubtful Security," the child wears shoes with straps; also a yellow and blue skirt; low white pinafore with pink sash. The Angerstein Children: The boy wears a frill and a turned-down collar, edged with lace. The girl is conspicuous for her large straw hat, trimmed with ribbons, and worn over a fine head of curls, which frame the face. A special feature in her dress is the short shawl thrown over the shoulders and turned under the coloured scarf which encircles her waist, forming a bow with long ends on the right hip. The manner in which the boys have their hair arranged is characteristic of the period—a la Russe it would be called now, short over the eyebrows, and falling in curls on the shoulders, most becoming to youthful faces. The Affectionate Brothers: The attire of the three boys is quaint and picturesque as fancy dress, and the group as a whole would make an admirable tableau vivant enacted by children—the eldest boy with coat, waistcoat, and breeches of maroon-coloured or black velvet;the little boy with jacket and trousers combined, and made of Hght-coloured cloth; and the baby all in white, with a gaily-trimmed Gainsborough hat in miniature, and a cherry coloured sash round its tiny waist.

RICHARD I., CŒUR-DE-LION. In a maroon telvet tunic trimmed with gold lace, three lions couchant embroidered in gold on the breast; white silk tights; velvet trunks; gold and satin shoes; jewelled belt, sword, and dagger.

RISING SUN. As a schoolboy, with large linen collar bordered with a frill; shell jacket with many buttons; trousers buttoned over.

ROBINSON CRUSOE. Knickerbockers and long coat of fur, with robins sewn about it; belt round the waist; silk tights, sandals; green parrot on shoulders; fowling-piece, pistols, hatchet, and umbrella. Mrs. Crusoe is dressed after the same fashion.

SAILOR (English). A favourite costume at Fancy Balls. It is best to obtain the real sailor dress from a nautical outfitter, either in white drill or serge; viz., loose trousers, loose jacket tucked into them; a belt round the waist, the sleeves of the jacket fastening at the wrist; having a sailor's collar, very open at the neck, with a silk handkerchief tied in a sailor's knot beneath it; a man-of-war straw hat, or a sou-wester and peajacket. The drill suits have the jacket trimmed with blue down the front and on the cuffs and collar.

SCHOOLBOY. For a tall boy; green jacket, with triple row of buttons down the front; large frilled collar; grey trousers, short, and buttoned over the jacket; shoes with straps; a satchel with books slung over shoulder.

SCHOOLMASTER. Coat of cloth made long, with gold buttons; striped blue waistcoat; nankeen breeches, fastened at the knee with the same buttons; white and blue woollen stockings; high collar, and blue silk necktie; spelling book under the arm; Madras handkerchief escaping from the pocket; periwig, brown jersey; quill pen in the ear; birch in the hand; muslin frillings round the wrist. SHEPHERD. Blue stockings, black shoes; figured blue cotton bodice showing only at neck; and breeches, bunches of ribbon at knee; Holland smock, long sleeves bordered with pink and blue ribbon, embroidered in silk with flowers; white wig.

SHEPHERD (French, of IXth century). Loose blouse reaching to knee, sleeves tight to wrist; high stockings, long-pointed shoes; girdle with carved horn attached; a crook with spear-like point.

SHEPHERD OF ABRUZZI. Brown trousers and garters tied with strap of leather; brown coat, and sleeves-slung to waist, coloured scarf round waist; sheepskin at back; high hat.

SHEPHERD, WATTEAU. Pink knee breeches, with blue puffings down the outer side of the legs; a white waist-coat with small frill; a coat coming slightly below the hips, showing the waistcoat, and having tight sleeves to the elbow, with big white puffings and frill to the wrist, a band of pink with blue rosettes being bound over the upper part of the puffing; a circular cape of violet and yellow; a Gainsborough-shaped hat; silk stockings, low shoes with large blue rosettes on the instep; and a crook with a bunch of blue and yellow ribbons on the top.

SIMPLE SIMON. Old-fashioned smock; corduroy trousers; hobnailed shoes.

SLOPER. Tight brown trousers; blue coat, brass buttons, handkerchief coming out of pocket; old black gloves; white hat and black band; large green umbrella.

STREPHON. (See IOLANTHE.)

SURFACE, CHARLES (School for Scandal). Silk stockings, shoes with buckles; breeches; long-tailed coat and waistcoat; powdered hair and bag wig; lace ruffles and lace necktie, fastened with diamond star. This is always a most elaborate costume, the coat, waistcoat, and trousers made of light satin, and richly embroidered in gold and silver. For example, blue satin coat, with white satin vest and breeches; or lilac or light pink satin suit.

61. Fairy.		62. Dutch Fisher Boy.
63. Grenadier.		64. Vandyke.

TOUCHSTONE

Red and white Folly dress, with bells, and fool's cap.

TRADESMAN IN THE REGIN OF LOUIS XI.

Brown velvet doublet bordered with blue; yellow sleeves, large blue collar lined with red; yellow leather purse fastened to the belt; brown hat turned up with red and yellow feather.

TURK. Long loose blue coat fastening down-front; fez cap; high black boots.

TYROLEAN. Brown or grey coat, and breeches ending above the knee; white stockings; black shoes. The coat, bound with green, having green collars and cuffs, is wide and open, showing the shirt and vest, across which there are bands of black velvet; and round the waist an elaborate silver embroidered belt. High pointed hat, entwined with silver cord; flowers at the side.

VATEL, MODERN. Jacket and breeches of white satin slashed with blue, white linen apron; muslin ruffles; shoulder sash of blue moire, to which is suspended a huge carving knife; white cap with blue puffings; white stockings and shoes, and blue rosette.

VANDYKE DRESS. (Girl). Full skirt reaching to the ground; square bodice with revers; long sleeves and apron; close cap. (See Plate XVI., Fig. 64.)

WALTER of SALUCES (Chaucer). Dalmatic of green and gold brocade; purple velvet belt; silver ornaments and clasp; crimson cloak lined with fur; wreath of ivy.

WHITTINGTON. Brown light pointed shoes covering front of foot; loose brown habit with belt round waist, open at neck to show chemisette; tight sleeves with puffed epaulette; stick on shoulder with bundle; short brown breeches; blue worsted stockings.

WILL-O'-THE-WISP (Girl). Black lantern in hand; hair flowing; black tulle dress with iridescent beads; star over the forehead of electric light.

YANKEE. Skirt and trousers of striped cotton, with high collar, black necktie, and large-brimmed hat.