Foods of the Foreign-born/Chapter 7

by Bertha M. Wood

THE NEAR EAST ARMENIANS, SYRIANS, TURKS, AND GREEKS

These interesting peoples, with their love for friend and neighbor, producers of works of art, dwellers in God's out-of-doors, taking shelter only when occasion demands, have much to give to any country.

A majority of those who come to America have lived in the open country, among the foothills of the mountains or on the high tablelands. A minority dwelt in the smaller cities.

Early in March, in the home country, the families change their place of living from indoors to the open.That is the season for plowing and planting; meals are prepared and eaten out-of-doors, and the evenings are spent under the great canopy of blue and gold, with all the family and relatives telling the news of the day or exchanging stories. Some of the stories have been related many times before, but their familiarity makes them even more interesting. These people practically live outof-doors, working in the fields or harvesting their supplies, until late in November. Then they change their occupations to different lines of craft work. Many of their most interesting pieces of copper and brass are tooled and etched during the winter months. Some of their wonderfully beautiful rugs are woven then. A pleasant pastime for the older women is the dyeing of the yarn from the vegetables gathered, a little of this color and a little of that being mixed to get just the shade desired to harmonize with the one artistic design in the mind of the weaver. It is difficult to distinguish between work and recreation among these people. So much of life is beauty to them.

During the farming season they raise sheep for food and clothing; goats and cows for milk; chickens, ducks, and geese for eggs. They also raise grains, vegetables, fruits, and berries in abundance, and make butter and cheese. Their wheat is threshed in the fall, then taken to the one neighborhood caldron, where it is boiled "until all germs are killed," then spread out on great sheets of cloth to dry in the sun. After it has dried it is ground between two great stones to different degrees of fineness, according to its future use, then stored for winter or until the next harvest. This grain is used in many different ways; it is even burned as incense. It is called bouglour.

Olives are pickled, both ripe and green, and some are salted. Wines and raisins are made from grapes, and the leaves of the grapevines are salted, to be used later in wrapping dolmas. Figs and dates are preserved in sugar with other fruits. Potatoes, squashes, onions, garlic, and other vegetables are put in pits in the ground, and at least three lambs are salted. In the Orient lamb is the principal meat used. Rice has a large share in the daily menu. The use of nuts with rice and meat adds an attractiveness to the diet. Pine-cone seeds, or fustuck; hazel-nuts, or fanducks; chestnuts, or kestanch; pistachio nuts and coriander seeds are many of the seeds referred to in Oriental recipes. Cardamon seeds are frequently added to coffee. The bread is usually made in round loaves or cakes, which are hollow. They are from four to eight inches in diameter and about one inch thick. They are the same as were used in the time of Christ, and referred to in the lunch basket of the lad in Mark 8: 19. This bread is dipped in the liquid in which meat and vegetables have been cooked instead of being buttered. It is a sign of friendship to dip in another's plate. This is referred to in Mark 14: 20. Their use of honey corresponds to our use of sugar. Wild honey was very plentiful in their countries and was used, therefore, in cooking as well as on prepared foods.

Chick peas, or nohond, a product of Greece and Turkey, and fava, pakla, or horse beans, are two of the leguminous plants of high food value.

In Eastern cookery not a single dish is dependent on the extravagant use of expensive and various ingredients which, when counted up, make food very expensive; but is dependent, and very much so, on the flavor of each different article used in the making. Oriental food is not highly spiced or flavored, but is a very fat diet. Butter is not eaten on bread, the fat in the food preparations being sufficient.

The breakfast of these Easterners consists of black coffee and bread for the adults and goat's milk and bread for the children. In some families cracked wheat is used as a cereal, boiled with milk, and is called Bouglour.

The noon meal may be matzoun or curdled milk, with a "dressing" of pilaf. Matzoun, or yoghourt, is the famous beverage or soup of the Orient. It is as valuable in their diet as buttermilk in ours. It is made in the following way, and is usually to be found in every family:

Take two quarts of milk and one tablespoon old matzoun.

Heat milk over a slow fire until it starts to boil; set aside to cool until bloodwarm. Add old matzoun to start fermentation. Cover vessel with blanket to keep the milk warm during the process of fermentation. In from two to three hours it will be done. It may be served hot or cold, and some people add sugar.

For the dinner or evening meal shish kibab (lamb cut in walnut-sized pieces and roasted on skewers) is a favorite form of serving meat. All vegetables are first fried in a small amount of olive oil or other fat, then boiled in meat stock. Sometimes tomato is added to give more flavor. Okra is never slimy, and vegetables lose their green taste when first cooked in oil or other fat.

When these people settle in America, their dietary customs are continued to a large extent, but milk becomes a luxury and fruit less plentiful.

Many of our finest fruit stores are owned by Greeks, Armenians, or Syrians. The men are seldom laborers; almost all choose commercial occupations, usually starting with a push cart of fruit, frequently bananas, and gradually working up a trade, buying a horse and wagon, then establishing a small store. Others are waiters in restaurants or have shoe-blacking stands. Some sell antique rugs; they also clean and repair them.

It was interesting to find during the war that these people were still able to secure wheat in its different degrees of coarseness. They use a large amount of fat in the preparation of many of their dishes, but as no butter is eaten on bread, they do not have an excess of fat in their diet.

The amount of milk used when there are children is generally insufficient, because of the expense. They rarely if ever buy it in their home countries, and if they do have to, the cost is but a few cents.

A Syrian woman who had tuberculous glands was advised to use one quart of milk a day. After being treated for some time, she showed no improvement, and it was discovered that she had not had the milk. When questioned why she did not take it she said: "The milk come in a bottle—I get it from the goat in my country. The doctor ordered milk and I do not know what else is in the bottle; there must be something besides milk to make it cost so much." After all was explained and milk ordered for the patient for a month, she began to improve, and then she was convinced that although we have an expensive way of obtaining milk, it has the same virtue.

In the majority of these homes the men return for the midday meal. There are comparatively few Eastern women over here. Often an Eastener and his wife run a restaurant or coffee house, and board a number of men. Sometimes a bulletin board is hung in these places, upon which letters received from folks at home are posted for others besides the recipient to read. Eating at these coffee houses is a very social occasion; the food is well cooked, although the service lacks some of the conventionalities of this country.

Because of the indoor occupations of these peoples, their incomes are more regular than the incomes of those who are laborers, or do other seasonal work.

Among the Syrians, Armenians, Greeks, and Turks we usually find the children well nourished, with plenty of growth-promoting material and mineral matter in their diets. Milk is not given in as large quantities as it should be, and fruit is also found by them to be expensive.

The undernourished children need more milk added to their diet. Wheat is used extensively, either whole or cracked, cooked in water until nearly done; then milk is added for the last few minutes' cooking. The green-leaved vegetables are not used in cream soups, but are cooked in stock. This must be remembered in diets for children.

A Greek boy who was a patient at a dispensary was referred to the food clinic for a constipation diet. When questioned about the delicious orange compotes the Greeks usually have two or three times a day on their tables in Greece, he said: "Oh, yes! My mother makes it, but she keeps it for company. When she is out, I crawl in the window and eat some on my bread. Oranges cost a lot for boys, my mother says."

The national dish of the Turks is Pilaf; of the Armenians, Herissa. Both are good foods for the children.

Pilaf

• 5 cups stock
• 2 cups rice
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

In a deep vessel fry well the washed rice in the oil, then add the stock. When nearly done, remove to back of stove to cook slowly. Cover with a piece of muslin under the lid, letting it fall a little over the brim to prevent the steam from falling back into the kettle. After ten minutes stir the rice lightly with a perforated spoon, then place over hot oven until moisture is evaporated and rice is almost dry. (Cracked wheat may be used instead of rice.)

Herissa

• 1 pound lamb or chicken
• 10 cups stock
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 3 pinches cinnamon
• Pepper and salt to taste

Take lamb or chicken meat without bones; boil for an hour or longer, shred into fine thready pieces with your fingers. Take the special wheat prepared for this purpose and soak in water for eight to ten hours, then boil in one-half the broth of the chicken or lamb, gradually adding the rest of the broth. During the process of boiling it is necessary to stir and pound the mixture continually with a wooden spoon. When serving in plates, pour over each share hot butter and powdered cinnamon to taste.

Fruits prescribed may be dried ones, as well as fresh, as compotes, not "stewed" fruits.

Even the candy or sweetmeat called "Medley" is made with wheat in it.

Ashoureh has nuts as well as wheat:

• 1 pound wheat
• 1½ pounds sugar
• ½ cup seedless raisins
• ½ cup peeled pistachio nuts
• ½ to 1 teaspoon rose water
• ¼ cup chopped hazelnuts
• ¼ cup chopped walnuts
• ¼ cup chopped almonds
• 1 to 2 pinches powdered cinnamon

Soak the wheat in plain water for ten to twelve hours; then after washing well boil in newer water, twice of its measure, until it cracks. In a separate vessel boil the sugar in an equal quantity of water, until two-thirds of it remains. To this add the raisins and the pistachio nuts. Then pour these all in the boiled wheat and continue boiling a while longer. When this is done, take away from the fire and add the rose water. Then chop well hazelnuts, walnuts, and the almonds; roast a little in a pan on a moderate fire, and spread over the boiled wheat mixture, meanwhile sifting on the powdered cinnamon.

Kolva is something like it:

• 1 pound wheat
• ½ cup flour
• 1 cup sugar
• ½ cup seedless raisins
• ½ cup chopped almonds
• ½ cup chopped walnuts
• 1 cup mixed fancy candy

Soak the wheat in water for ten or twelve hours; wash well, and boil in newer water, but take away from the fire before it cracks. Strain and then spread over some white muslin over night. Then roast the flour in a pan by itself until light brown, and when sufficiently cold, add the sugar, also the almonds and the walnuts, which should be well chopped. Add this mixture to the boiled wheat, and mix in also the spiced fancy "grape shot" candy. (Serve cold.)

For constipation, fruit compotes may be prescribed. These are known as retchel. Wishneh, or cherry preserve, is made as follows:

• 2½ pounds sugar
• 1 pint plain water
• 1½ pounds sour cherries, freed from the stones
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice

Boil the sugar in the water over a moderate fire until it gets cream thick, then add the sour cherries (without the stones), also the lemon juice; after a little boiling, take away from the stove and cool before placing in jars.

Note.—Retchel can be prepared from all kinds of berries and fruits, especially from figs, pineapple, and even pumpkin, in same manner as described above.

When vegetables are prescribed, it is well to remember that the Oriental cooks them with olive oil. They are known as basdis, and are used extensively with meat or cooked in olive oil, or both. One of the best dishes for a patient with constipation is cabbage with meat, as follows:

Lohano Basdi (Kelom)

• 1 pound meat, fat, of beef, mutton, or lamb
• 3 pounds cabbage
• 2 dry onions, medium
• 2 tomatoes, ripe (or 3 to 4 tablespns. of canned)
• 3 cups broth (or plain water)
• Salt and red pepper to taste

Cut the cabbage into egg-sized pieces, and the meat into one-half the size of the cabbage pieces. Also chop coarsely the onions and put them all, alternately, into a suitable vessel. Season with salt and the red pepper. Then, after adding the cut tomatoes and the broth, boil on a moderate fire until the meat and cabbage become very tender. (It is better to serve this Basdi at least six to eight hours after cooking, when it should be reheated.)

Another dish equally valuable in their diet is Tureli Chuvedge, or mixed vegetables with meat:

• 1 pound meat, fat, of 1 mutton or lamb
• 1 pound eggplant
• ½ pound green beans
• 2 dry onions, medium
• 1 bunch parsley
• ¼ bunch mint
• 5-6 strips celery
• 3 to 4 tomatoes, ripe and unripe
• Salt and red pepper to taste

Clean all the vegetables properly and cut them into small sizes, the same with the meat. Then put these all in a deep flat pan or a deep earthen vessel, and after seasoning the whole to taste, place in a moderately hot oven, until well done. It is not necessary to use any broth or plain water with this Basdi, as the ingredients will discharge enough water to be cooked in.

Nephritis seems almost unknown among these people. A patient may have any of their cereal dishes made of wheat or rice, and any of their green vegetables cooked in olive oil. Suggestive combinations for them are as follows:

Patlijam Beoregh (Eggplant in Omelet Style)

• 1 medium eggplant
• Olive oil, in quantity required to fry with
• 2 eggs
• 2 to 3 tablespoons hard cheese, grated
• ½ bunch parsley
• Salt and pepper to taste

Slice the eggplant in less than one-half inch disks, and fry slightly with olive oil in a large flat pan. Then make a mixture of the eggs, the grated cheese, and very finely cut parsley, and after seasoning it to taste, pour it over each piece of the eggplant, and continue frying until brown on both sides.

Spinache

• 2 quarts spinach
• 1 tablespoon flour
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 cup broth (or milk)
• 2 or 3 slices bread (stale)
• Salt and pepper to taste

Clean the spinach, cut into pieces, wash well, boil for ten minutes, and put through cold water. Then fry for ten minutes the flour in the olive oil; to this add the spinach, also one-half of the broth. After boiling this mixture for five to eight minutes, pour in the rest of the broth, stir slowly, and continue boiling for ten minutes longer. (Serve this hot with a little hot butter poured over it.) The stale bread slices may be cut into square pieces and fried in butter, and arranged over the spinach. The broth may be replaced with milk.

Tazeh Fassculia Yaghli (Green Beans with Olive Oil)

• 1 quart green beans
• 3 dry onions, medium
• 1 green pepper, medium
• 2 ripe tomatoes (or 3 or 4 tablespoons of canned)
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Clean and trim the beans, splitting them lengthwise; crush with some salt and, after washing, arrange them in a suitable vessel. Slice over this the onions and the green pepper. Also add the juice of the tomatoes. Season to taste, and after pouring in the olive oil, boil on a moderate fire for ten to fifteen minutes, when one-half of plain water should be added, and then left over a slow fire to simmer until done. (Serve hot or cold.)

Khiyar Dolma (Stuffed Cucumbers)

Pare eight to ten cucumbers of medium size, dig out their seedy parts with the aid of a narrow and pointed knife, stuff with the Dolma mixture, and after piercing each one with a fork, arrange in a suitable pan, side by side. Add two or three ripe tomatoes, cut into small pieces (or three to four tablespoons of canned tomatoes), and then pour over one cup or more of broth, or plain water. Cook either on a slow fire or in a moderately hot oven.

Dressing (Terbish), made of one beaten egg and the juice of one lemon mixed, may be added to the whole, after blending the mixture first with part of the Dolma Gravy. (Serve hot.)

Because of the large amount of rice and wheat used in the preparation of the Near East foods, it is difficult to give a diet list for a diabetic patient. In prescribing low carbohydrate vegetables cooked in olive oil, and lamb and chicken cooked on skewers, one is able to feel sure no rice or wheat is used. It is frequently found that the amount of fat must be reduced.

Bread is usually limited to two of their loaves a day.

The tuberculosis patient needs milk added to the diet instead of black coffee.

Tzouvatzogh, the Armenian egg milk toast, is very good made with:

• 6 to 8 slices bread, dry (or toasted)
• 1 cup milk
• 3 or 4 eggs
• Butter in quantity required for frying
• Sugar to taste

Dampen the dry bread with the milk, and after dipping into the beaten eggs, fry in smoking hot butter on both sides. Some prefer only eggs and omit the milk; others use the milk with the beaten eggs mixed; the result of both methods being similar. (Serve with sugar or syrup if desired.)

Matzoun is always popular, and may be served with eggs in the following combination:

• 1 cup matzoun
• 4 to 5 bulbs garlic, pressed
• 4 eggs
• 1 tablespoon butter
• Salt and pepper to taste

Mix the juice of the garlic with the matzoun, and hold ready in a large flat plate. Then break the eggs into boiling hot water, and let boil for five or six minutes, regular dropped egg style. After which time take them out with the aid of a perforated spoon, and arrange in the plate over the matzoun. This done, pour over the whole the butter, which should be smoking hot. Season to taste and serve at once.

An egg dish that they enjoy is made with orange, and is called Sudoli Youmourta:

• ½ cup sugar
• 2 cups milk
• 4 eggs
• 1 orange, skinned
• Salt and pepper to taste

Take a saucepan, put the milk in, and break the eggs into it. Add the sugar and the orange, cut into pieces. Season to taste and stir well; then place the saucepan in a steamer full of boiling water. Cook this on a moderate fire until the mixture is fairly thick. Spread over it, lightly, some burnt sugar, and serve.

Another milk dish common among them is bread, buttered, and a pitcher of hot milk. This is eaten as we eat bread and milk.

The Near East's knowledge of food combinations and possibilities seems greater than among any other people. It is generally supposed that their cookery is spicy, but it will be noticed, in looking over these recipes, that the cooking is rich in flavor because of the number of ingredients, and not because of condiments.

Sarma

(Used by all Near East)

Rice, meat (beef or lamb), and tomatoes.

Mix rice, ground meat, salt, black pepper, and tomatoes together. Roll in grapevine or cabbage leaves, which have been cooked until soft. Pile in kettle and cover with cold water. Cover with plate to hold in place. Cook about one hour.

Paklava
(Used by all Near East)

• 2 eggs
• 1 cup butter
• 1 pint milk
• Flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 2 tablespns. melted butter
• 1½ cups chopped nuts
• ½ cup sugar or ½ cup honey

Mix two eggs, one cup butter, one pint milk, as much flour as you need, and two teaspoons baking powder. Let stand over night. Make into balls. Mix cornstarch and flour, and put on board. Roll balls out thin. Put into pan and cover with melted butter, chopped nuts, and sugar or honey. Add another layer of dough, then one of nuts—pistachio, walnuts, or pinto, etc. Cut in pieces, diamond shaped. Bake. Serve with syrup.

Patlijan-Boereg (Armenian)

• 1 medium eggplant
• 4 sprigs parsley
• 1 lemon
• 3 eggs
• ½ pound hard white grated cheese
• Salt to taste
• 1 cup olive oil

Slice the eggplant round or lengthwise, one-quarter inch thick. Sprinkle the slices with salt. Let stand for an hour. Drain all juice. Cook the slices in olive oil in the frying pan until nearly done. Strain off all but very little oil in the pan. Spread a layer of the eggplants in the pan. Mix up cheese and chopped parsley in two beaten eggs. Spread the mixture on the layer of eggplants. Then cover the mixture with another layer of the cooked eggplants. Let cook on small fire for a few minutes. Beat the third egg. Spread on top of the second layer. Cook until the egg on top is done. Serve with lemon juice.

Silkme (Armenian)

• 1 eggplant
• 1 tomato
• 1 onion
• ½ cup olive oil
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ½ pound meat (pork)

Slice eggplant, leaving the skin on. Fry the meat, cut in squares in the fat, and when brown put into a kettle with the slices of eggplant, the cut onion, and the tomato. Add seasoning and the rest of the fat. Cook until meat is tender.

Dolma (Armenian)

• 3 peppers, green
• 3 tomatoes, fresh
• 2 sprigs parsley
• ½ head cabbage, outside leaves
• ½ cup rice
• 1½ teaspoons salt
• ¼ teaspoon pepper
• ½ lemon
• Water
• 1½ cups chopped lamb (lean and fat, mixed)

Cut the outside leaves of the cabbage and cut off the thick parts, and boil it five minutes in water. Strain the water off. Take the seeds off the peppers. Take the inside of the tomatoes and keep it in a dish. Cut the parsley in small pieces. Wash the rice. Mix the meat, rice, parsley, and the inside of the tomatoes together, and put a little in each leaf of the cabbage and roll; also stuff peppers and tomatoes. Arrange the cabbage rolls in the bottom of the pot, the stuffed peppers and tomatoes on the top. Add the juice of one-half lemon and barely cover the stuffing with water. Let it cook slowly about one to one and one-half hours.

Mantu (Armenian)

• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 cup lamb, chopped
• ¾ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon pepper
• 2¼ cups cold water
• 1 cup matzoun
• 1 cup flour

Make a stiff dough with the flour, water (one-quarter cup), and salt. Allow to set one-half hour. Roll it out to one-sixteenth inch thick. Cut into one and one-half inch squares. Put on a well-floured board, so that they do not stick to each other. Mix the chopped meat and the finely-chopped onion, one-half teaspoon salt and one-quarter teaspoon pepper. Take one of the squares of dough, fold each corner into center point, placing a little of the mixture into the case. Put into a well-greased pan and put over the open flame, and brown the bottoms. Pour boiling water over this until covered, and cook twenty minutes. Put matzoun over this when done.

Okra Stew (Greek)

• ¾ quart okra (fresh)
• 1½ cups tomato (canned)
• 1 small onion
• ¾ cup lamb (cut in small pieces)
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon pepper
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• ¼ cup water
• ½ lemon

Put meat in hot oil and fry until nearly cooked, adding onion, chopped fine. Have whole okra cleaned, washed, sprinkled with salt, and dried in the sun for half an hour. Wash the salt away and add to the meat, together with the tomato, water, lemon, salt, and pepper. Cover well and cook over a rather slow fire. In cleaning okra, do not cut the stem so that the seeds are exposed, but face or cut the stem off carefully, to avoid having a gummy substance in the cooked product.

Bean Stew (Greek)

• ¾ quart shelled beans (fresh)
• 2 cups tomatoes (canned)
• 1 small onion
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon pepper
• 4 tablespns. olive oil
• ¼ cup water
• ¾ cup lamb (cut into small pieces)

Put meat in hot oil and fry until nearly cooked, adding onion, chopped fine. Add tomato, beans, water, salt, and pepper. Cover well and cook over a rather slow fire.

Bouglour Pilau (Armenian)

• 1 small onion
• ¾ cup lamb
• 1 cup Bouglour (prepared wheat)
• 2 teaspoons salt
• ½ teaspoon pepper
• 3 tablespoons olive oil, melted
• 3 cups water

Cut the meat into cubes. Put into saucepan with water and salt. Let boil until meat is nearly done. Then add Bouglour, which has first been cleaned. Do not allow stock to reduce to less than two and one-half cups. If you have less, add water. Cook for thirty minutes in covered saucepan. Chop onion and brown in the olive oil, and pour over all.

Set on back of stove for fifteen minutes to settle or simmer.

Syrian Stew

• 2 cups raw mutton (cut in cubes)
• 2 tablespoons fat
• 3 tablespoons flour
• 2 cups string beans
• 2 onions
• 2 cups tomatoes

Dredge the meat with the flour, and brown it in the fat. Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, scraping from the frying pan all of the flour and fat, and add enough water barely to cover. Cook slowly until the meat is tender.