Mexico, California and Arizona

From Wikisource
Jump to navigation Jump to search
Mexico, California and Arizona (1900)
by William Henry Bishop
1219066Mexico, California and Arizona1900William Henry Bishop

ENVIRONS OF MEXICO.

MEXICO


CALIFORNIA AND ARIZONA


BEING


A New and Revised Edition

OF

OLD MEXICO AND HER LOST PROVINCES


BY

WILLIAM HENRY BISHOP

AUTHOR OF

"FISH AND MEN IN THE MAINE ISLANDS" "THE HOUSE OF A MERCHANT PRINCE"

"DETMOLD" ETC.


WITH ILLUSTRATIONS


NEW YORK AND LONDON

HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS

1900


Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, by

HARPER & BROTHERS,

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.


Copyright, 1888, by Harper & Brothers.


All rights reserved.

PREFACE.


In my opinions about Mexico I am glad to have been sanguine, because it is now seen that there was excellent ground for it. But I am glad also to have been a little sceptical, for the results have by no means equalled the highest expectations of the time of "the railway invasion." I have summed up now all the important changes since my early visit, and, as in most other human affairs, it is found that the realization is in a happy medium between the views of the extremely hopeful and of those who look always only upon the darkest side of any project.

I am not able, like several contemporaries, in whose accuracy, after all, the cynical pick flaws, to offer elaborate thanks to various notables and dignitaries "for valuable assistance in the preparation of this work," either the new edition, or the book as a whole. I wish, as a matter of interest, I could take the public into my confidence as to the number of letters written to, or interviews held with, minister resident, consul, and other persons, and the curious apathy with which these have often been met. I beg it to be believed that if there still be serious errors or omissions, they are not for want of continued and painstaking effort, which the modest result might not seem to have demanded. I may say that the book has been brought out also in England, and it has up to this time met with considerable favor. It has had the good-fortune to receive the commendation of leading journals in the city of Mexico—the more satisfactory in the place itself, where the most rigid tests of criticism are naturally to be looked for. Just as this goes to press I receive a letter from the editor of a prominent English paper there, containing these gratifying lines, which—though far too complimentary—I venture to quote: "I do not like to flatter, but I cannot refrain from saying that yours is the best book on Mexico in recent times."

CONTENTS.




Part I.—OLD MEXICO.

PAGE
I. By Way of Cuba and the Spanish Main
1
II. Vera Cruz
16
III. Up the Long Mountain Slope
24
IV. The Capital
37
V. The Projectors
54
VI. The Ferro-carriles
70
VII. The Railways at Work
80
VIII. The Question of Money, and Shopping
96
IX. Social Life, and some Notable Institutions
107
X. The Fine Arts and Literature
120
XI. Some Traits of Peculiar History, and the Mexican "Warwick"
134
XII. Cuatitlan, and Around Lakes Xochimilco and Chalco
149
XIII. To Old Texcoco
162
XIV. Popocatepetl Ascended
175
XV. A Banquet, and a Tragedy, at Cuautla-Morelos
185
XVI. San Juan, Orizaba, and Cordoba Revisited
192
XVII. Puebla, Cholula, Tlaxcala
210
XVIII. Mines and Mining Traits, at Pachuca and Regla
227
XIX. A Week at a Mexican Country-house
245
XX. On Horseback and Muleback to Acapulco
263
XXI. Conversations by the Way with a Colonel
275

Part II.—THE LOST PROVINCES.

PAGE
XXII. San Francisco
295
XXIII. San Francisco (Continued)
324
XXIV. The Villas of the Bonanza Kings
348
XXV. The Vintage Season, and Monterey
359
XXVI. A Wondrous Valley, and a Desert that Blossoms like the Rose
380
XXVII. Visalia, Bakersfield, and Life on a Spacious Ranch
399
XXVIII. Los Angeles
421
XXIX. To San Diego, and the Mexican Frontier
448
XXX. Across Arizona
469
XXXI. Tombstone
482
XXXII. Camp Lowell, Tucson, and San Xavier del Bac
496
XXXIII. Mexico Revisited
510
XXXIV. The Revival of Bull-fighting
629
INDEX TO PART I.
553
INDEX TO PART II.
563

ILLUSTRATIONS.




PAGE
MEXICO, SHOWING PRESENT AND OLD FRONTIER
5
CATHEDRAL OF MEXICO
9
DOMES OF VERA CRUZ
17
MAP OF ENGLISH RAILROAD FROM VERA CRUZ TO MEXICO
25
TRANSCONTINENTAL PROFILE OF MEXICO
31
A RAILWAY JUDAS
33
A FLOWER-SHOW IN THE ZOCALO
43
COMPARATIVE LEVELS OF LAKES
46
THE HOMES OF THE POOR
49
ENTRANCE TO A TENEMENT-HOUSE
51
OLD SPANISH PALACE IN THE CALLE DE JESUS
56
SEMI-VILLA ON THE PASEO OF BUCARELLI
57
THE MODERN STYLE
58
PORCELAIN HOUSE IN SAN FRANCISCO STREET
59
THE DRIVE TO CHAPULTEPEC
63
GENERAL RAILWAY SYSTEM OF MEXICO
75
THE GREAT SPANISH DRAINAGE CUT
85
PAY CARAVAN ON THE MEXICAN NATIONAL ROAD
91
"NOT HERE FOR THEIR HEALTH"
93
MODERN SHOP-FRONTS AT MEXICO
99
THE "PORTALES" AT MEXICO
102
A "MERCERIA" AT PUEBLA
106
INTERIOR COURT-YARD OF MEXICAN RESIDENCE
111
MEXICAN COURTSHIP
113
LAS CASAS PROTECTING THE AZTECS.By Felix Parra
120
THE DEATH OF ATALA.By Louis Monroy
123
GENERAL PORFIRIO DIAZ, EX-PRESIDENT OF MEXICO
139
GENERAL MANUEL GONZALES, PRESIDENT OF MEXICO
143
ENVIRONS OF MEXICO
150
SUNDAY DIVERSIONS AT SANTA ANITA
153
CREW OF "LA NINFA ENCANTADORA"
165
THE "FIND"
169
IN TIERRA CALIENTE
186
THE HILL OF EL BORREGO, AT ORIZABA
196
PRISONERS WEAVING SASHES AT CHOLULA
217
OLD FONT AT TLAXCALA
222
THE FIRST CHRISTIAN PULPIT IN AMERICA. TLAXCALA
223
PART OF CONVENT OF SAN FRANCISCO. TLAXCALA
224
SUPERINTENDENT'S HOUSE AT REGLA
241
PLOUGHMAN IN GRASS CLOAK
243
THE HACIENDA OF TEPENACASCO
246
THE THRESHING-FLOOR
249
THE TLACHIQUERO
251
NURSE AND CHILDREN AT THE HACIENDA
261
THE "DILIGENCIA"
267
OUR CAVALCADE AT IGUALA
281
THE BELLS OF SAN BLAS
290
ALCATRAZ ISLAND
297
"NOB" HILL, FROM THE BAY
299
CALIFORNIA STREET, SAN FRANCISCO
305
LONE MOUNTAIN
309
"HIGH JINKS" OF THE BOHEMIAN CLUB AMONG THE BIG TREES
313
GOLDEN GATE, FROM GOAT ISLAND
317
HIGH-GRADE RESIDENCES
327
CHINESE FISHING-BOATS IN THE BAY
331
CHINESE QUARTER, SAN FRANCISCO
335
A BALCONY IN THE CHINESE QUARTER
337
IN A CHINESE THEATRE
339
RAILWAY ROUTE I SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA AND ARIZONA
345
PALO ALTO
354
RALSTON'S COUNTRY HOUSE
357
BOTTLING CHAMPAGNE AT SAN FRANCISCO
361
A BRANDY CELLAR, SAN JOSE
363
A BIT OF OLD MONTEREY
365
LOOKOUT STATION
367
CUTTING UP THE WHALE
369
THE HOTEL DEL MONTE, MONTEREY
371
CLIFFS AND FOREST AT MONTEREY
373
CHINESE FISHING VILLAGE
375
SAN CARLOS'S-DAY AT THE OLD MISSION
376
DRYING FISH AT CHINESE VILLAGE
377
COURT-HOUSE AT FRESNO
387
PRIVATE RESIDENCE AT FRESNO
393
FIRST BUILDING IN VISALIA
400
AN OLD-TIMER
401
LOGGING, BACK OF VISALIA
403
CHINATOWN, BAKERSFIELD
409
GYPSY CAMP AT BAKERSFIELD
411
A TYPICAL RANCH-HOUSE
414
SAN LUIS OBISPO
416
A RODEO
418
THE KERN RIVER CAÑON
419
TEHACHAPI PASS
422
MAIN STREET, LOS ANGELES
425
DON PIO PICO
428
MONGOLIAN AND MEXICAN
430
PARADISE
437
A MEXICAN WEDDING AT SAN GABRIEL
441
THE VINTAGE, SAN GABRIEL
443
IRRIGATING AN ORANGE-ORCHARD
445
A SYLVAN GLIMPSE AT RIVERSIDE
451
ADOBE RESIDENCE AT RIVERSIDE
452
OLD MISSION AT SANTA BARBARA
455
 
PLAZA OF SAN DIEGO, OLD TOWN
457
OLD MISSION AT SAN DIEGO
460
DON JUAN FORSTER
461
SEÑORA FORSTER
462
FORSTER'S RANCH
463
SAN LUIS REY
465
A TICHBORNE CLAIMANT
466
THE COLORADO RIVER AT YUMA
473
PASQUAL, CHIEF OF THE YUMAS
476
YUMA INDIANS AT HOME
477
DISTANT VIEW OF TOMBSTONE
484
"ED" SCHIEFFELIN
487
A TOMBSTONE SHERIFF AND CONSTITUENTS
494
APACHE PRISONERS AT CAMP LOWELL
497
AN ARIZONA WATERING-PLACE
499
CACTUS GROWTHS OF THE DESERT
501
STREET VIEW IN TUCSON
503
EXTERIOR OF MISSION CHURCH OF SAN XAVIER DEL BAC
505
INTERIOR OF CHURCH OF SAN XAVIER DEL BAC
507