Sketches of Italy and the Italians.
CMay,
SKETCHES OF ITALY AND THE ITALIANS, WITH REMARKS ON ANTIQUITIES
AND FINE ARTS.
(Continued.)
XXVI. THE PALACE AND GARDENS OF PRATOLINO.
THE most remarkable in historical and local interest, and yet the least known of the numerous and magnifi- cent palaces belonging to the sove- reigns of Tuscany, is the Villa real di Pratolino, situate about six miles from Florence, on the road to Bologna. Built and decorated by one of the Medici in the sixteenth century, this palace once combined all the beauty, splendour, and ingenuity, which a period so distinguished in the history of fine art could supply ; and al- though but the shadow of its former glories remains, the gardens still dis- play so many wonders, that a brief description of them cannot but be in- teresting. In 1.5G9, Francesco, the son of Cosmo, the first grand-duke of Tuscany, intending to build a sum- mer residence, purchased a large tract of land on the woody slope of Monte Morello. The site was wild and irre- gular, covered with forest trees and underwood, and watered by numer- ous springs ; but the air was fresh and salubrious the valley, although so near Florence, was uninhabited and the undulations of the surface were eminently favourable to horticultural embellishment. The deep shades of the interwoven trees appeared as if intended for purposes of mystery, and, in fact, this secluded retreat became the secret abode of the celebrated Ve- netian, Bianca Capello, first the mis- tress, and eventually the wife, of Francesco de Medici. The villa and gardens were designed and embellish- ed by the celebrated Bernardo Buon- talenti, a pupil of Michel Angelo, and the taste and ingenuity of this highly- gifted man created a scene of enchant- ment which probably suggested to Tasso his picturesque description of Armida's palace. Certainly the fol- lowing lines are a close description of the locality :
Quinci ella in cima a una montagna ascende Wsabitata e d'ombre oscura e bruna.
E per incanto .
> . Vi fonda un palagio apresso un lago: Oye in perpetuo april molle amorosa Vita seco ne mena il suo diletto.
This delightful retreat, which is embosomed and totally concealed in a thick wood, I discovered by accident during a shooting excursion from Fie- sole. Eager in the pursuit of game, I had rambled onward until I found myself bewildered in a labyrinth of hills and valleys, and at a considerable distance from Fiesole. The day was far advanced, the heat was insupport- able, and I looked around me in vain for some one to tell me the road. Ex- hausted at length with heat, hunger, and thirst, I left the path and ap- proached an orchard, expecting to find refreshment from its fruit, or at least shade under its foliage. I dis- covered in it a grove of cherry trees, in one of which a peasant was seated gathering and throwing the ripe fruit into a pannier, which a girl of ten or twelve was supporting on her head. To an artist the group and scenery were charming ; but at that moment the cherries we re more attractive, and holding out a silver coin, I requested the gatherer to throw some fruit into my hat. He showered the cherries down in such abundance, that I soon called out, " Enough !"
" I must give you the money's worth," said he, as he continued to throw them down upon me with un- merciful honesty. After a delicious collation, assisted by a piece of horne- baked cake which the peasant girl of- fered to me with a graceful and cor- dial smile, I began to think of my return to Fiesole, and requested them to direct me.
" You are so far from Fiesole," re- plied the villager, " that I advise you to pass the night at Pratolino, which is near at hand. The steward is a worthy man, and will receive you hospitably in the name of our beloved Grand Duke."
Delighted to hear that accident had brought me so near to this once cele- brated villa, I promptly determined to follow his advice, and my guide con- tinued in the flowery language com- mon to all classes in Tuscany
" Do you see/' said he, " that moun-
