and found that he hit the Time right, they trusted me for the future, and admired the Structure of our Watches, that could so faithfully declare the Time; so that ever after, we slept out our Sleep, without any Disturbances from them.
From Nissa we came to S. Sophia; the Journey thither, and the Weather, for that Time of the Year, was very tolerable. Sophia is a Town big enough, and well inhabited both by Citizens and Strangers: It was heretofore the Royal Seat of the King of Bulgaria; and afterwards, if I mistake not, of the Despots of Servia, whilst that House stood, before it was overthrown by the Turkish Arms.
Afterwards, we continued our Journey, for many Days, through the pleasant, and not unfruitful, Valley of Bulgaria; all the Time we were in that Country, we had little other Bread, but only Cakes bak'd under Ashes upon the Hearth, which they call Togatch. The Women and Maids sell them, for they have no Bakers in those Parts; and when they perceive any Guests a-coming, that are likely to pay for what they have, presently they knead a little Dough, with Water, without any Leaven, and lay it upon Tiles, under the Ashes, and so bring it out piping hot, and sell them for a very small Matter; other Victuals is also very cheap there, a good Weather-sheep may be bought for thirty-five Aspers; a Chicken and a Hen for an Asper, a sort of Coin with them, of which fifty make but a Crown.
I must not omit to acquaint you with the Habit of these Bulgarian Women. They commonly wear nothing but a Smock or Shift, made of no finer Linnen-thread, than that we make Sacks of. And yet, these course Garments are wrought by them, with several sorts of strip'd Needle-work,
