D Y I
D Y I
giving a luftre.— othly, Verdegreafe, ufed by linen dyers, in their yellow and green colours. — Jtbly, Alum, much ufed, though with what intent is not agreed on ; whether to ren- der water a proper menftruum to extract the tingent particles of certain hard drugs ? or to fcower the fordes, which may interpofe between the fluff and the dye, and hinder their due adhefion ? or to intenerate the hairs of wool, and hair fluffs, that they may better imbibe their colours ? or to con- tribute to the colour itfelf, as copperas does to galls in mak- ing black, or juice of lemons to cochineel in carnations, or aqua fortis impregnated with pewter in the bowdye ? or, which feems moft probable, to ferve as a vinculum between the cloth and the colour, as clammy oils, and gum waters, do in painting ; alum being a fubftance whofe aculeated par- ticles, diffolved with hot liquors, will enter the pores of fluffs, and on which the particles of dying drugs will catch ; though it may alfo ferve another ufe, viz. to dry up certain particles which difagreed with the colour to be fuperinduced : to which add, that it may alfo ferve to brighten a colour, by incruftating the fluff to be dyed with its cryftals, on which the dye coming to be applied, has a finer effect, than if it were applied on a fcabrous matter, fuch as un-alumed cloth is.—Sthly, Bran, and bran water, whofe flower entering the pores of the fluff, levigates its furface, and thus renders the colour laid on it more beautiful ; much as woods to be gild- ed, are firfl fmoothened over with white colours. — gthly, Saltpetre, ufed chiefly in aqua fortis, in the bowdye, to brighten colours by back boiling ; for which purpofe, — lothly, Argol is more commonly ufed — nthly, Lime, or calke, ufed in the working of blue fats. Non-colouring Ingredients of the animal kind, are, — I/?, Honey. — idly, Yolks of eggs. — %dly, Ox -gall : though this, and the two laft, are only ufed by a few particular dyers, to fcower, promote fermentation, and increafe weight.' — ■q.tbly, Stale urine, ufed as a lixivium to fcower, alfo to help the fermenting, and heating of woad ; though it is alfo ufed in the blue tats inftead of lime : in reality, as it difcharges the yellow, wherewith blue, and moft greens, are compounded, it is ufed to fpend weld withal : yet it is known, that the urine, or old mud of piffing places, will dye a well fcowered piece of filver of a golden colour ; it being with this (not Bath water, as imagined) that the Bath fixpences, &c. are prepared.
To the clafs of non-colouring ingredients may alfo be added water, by dyers called white liquor, which is of two forts. — \Jl, Well water, ufed in reds, and in other colours wanting reftringency, as well as in dying fluffs of a loofe contexture, as callico, fuftian, and the feveral fpecies of cottons : but naught for blues, and making yellows and greens look rufty. — idly, River water, fofter and fweeter than the former, and diffolving foap better, ufed in moft cafes by the dyers, for wafliing, riniing, &c. their cloths after dying. — $dly, Liquor abfolutely fo called, which is bran liquor made of one part bran, and five river water, boiled an hour, and put in a leaden ciftern to fettle : four or five days in fummer turn it too fower, and unfit for ufe : its office is to contribute to the holding of the colour : it is known that ftarch, which is only the flower of bran, makes a clinging pafte, which will conglutinate paper, though not wood or metals. According- ly, bran liquors are ufed to mealy dying fluffs, as to madder, which is rendred clammy and glutinous by being boiled in bran water ; and thus made to flick better to the villi of the fluff dyed. — 4-th/y, Gums, tragacanth, arabic, maftic, and fanguis draconis, are ufed in dying filk, chiefly to give it a gloflinefs, which may make it feem finer, as well as ftiffer, and to encreafe its weight.
For the colouring ingredients, colorantia coloraia, we have, — i°. Iron and fteel, or what is made from them, which, we have obferved, are ufed in dying blacks ; though how they contribute thereto is not fo obvious : we know that green oaken boards become black by the affriction of a faw ; a green four apple cut with a knife turns of the fame colour ; the white greafe wherewith the wheels of coaches are anoint- ed becomes likewife black by means of the iron boxes where- with the nave is lined, and the friction between the nave and the axle-tree ; and that an oaken flick becomes black by a violent friction againft other wood in a turning lath ; and the black colour on earthen ware is given with fcalings of - iron vitrified. From all which it feems to follow, that the bufinefs of blacking lies in the iron, and particularly in its uftulation or affliction. See Black, and Blackness. Be this as it will, copperas, the moft ufual ingredient for dy- ing black, is the fait of the pyrites wherewith old iron is in- corporated. And, where-ever this is ufed, fome of the aftrin- gents are to accompany it. See Copperas. — 2°. Red- wood chopped, and ground in a mill, is ufed for dying cloth, rugs, &c. of the coarfer fort. Its tincture, which is a fort of brick-colour, is got out by long boiling it with galls, and the cloth along with it. It ftands better than brazil. — 3°. Brazil, chopped alfo, and ground, dyes a pink- colour, or carnation neareft approaching cochineel : it is ufed with alum : with pot-afhes it alfo ferves for purples. It eafily ftains. See Brazil.— 4 . Madder gives a colour near ap- proaching the bowe-dye, or new-fcarlet: thofe called baftard-
fcarlets are dyed with it. It endures much boiling, and is ufed both with alum and argol j and holds well ; the bright- eft dyes with madder are made by over-dying the fluff, and then difcharging part of it by back-boiling in argol. It is ufed with bran water inftead of white liquor. See Mad- der. — 5 . Cochineel, ufed with bran liquor in a pewter furnace, with aqua fortis, gives the dye called among us, though improperly, fear let in grain. Any acid takes off the intenfe rednefs of this colour, turns it towards an orange, or flame colour. With this colour the Spanifh leather and wool ufed by ladies, are dyed. See Cochineel. — 6°. An- notto gives an orange colour, efpecially to filks, linens and cottons ; for it does not penetrate cloth : it is ufed with pot- afhes. — 7°. Weld, by the help of pot-afhes, yields a deep lemon-colour ; though it is ufed to give all forts of yellows. See Weld. — 8°. Wood-wax, or green-wood, called alfo genijla tincloria, and the dyer's weed, has the like effect as weld, though its ufe is chiefly confined to coarfe cloths. It is fet with pot-afhes, or urine. — 9 . Fuftic is of two forts, young and old. — The former chopped and ground, yields a kind of reddifh orange colour : the latter, a hair colour diftant feveral degrees of yellow from the former. It fpends with or without falts, works either hot or cold, and holds firm. See Fustic. — io°. Wood-foot, containing not on- ly a colour, but a fait, needs nothing to extract its dye, or make it ftrike on the fluff. The natural colour it yields is that of honey, but it is the foundation of many other colours on wool, and cloth, only. See Soot.— ir°. Woad ground, or chopped with a mill for the purpofe, is made up into balls, which being broken, and ftrewed on lime or urine, is ufed with pot-afhes, or fea-weed, and gives a lafting-blue. The lime, or calk, accelerates the fermentation of the woad, which in three or four days will work like a guile of beer, and be covered with a greenifh froth or flower. An intenfe woad colour is almoft black, that is, is of a damfon colour. It is the foundation of fo many colours, in its different de- grees or fhades, that the dyers have a fcale whereby to com- pute the lightnefs and depth of this colour. — See Woad. 12°. Indigo is of the like nature, and ufed for the fame pur- pofe as woad, only that it is ftronger. See Indigo. — 13 . Logwood, chopped and ground, yields a purplifh blue : it may be ufed with alum : formerly it was of ill repute, as a moft falfe and fading flower ; hut, lince it has been ufed with galls, it is lefs complained of. — V. Petty's Apparat. to Uiji. of dying, in Sprat's Hijl. Roy. Societ. P. 2. p. 1^S,feqq. Merr. Not. on Neri, c. HO. p. 335, feqq. The dying materials are generally applied in decoctions made in water, more or -lefs ftrong, according to the occafion ; fometimes by only dipping the fluff in the vat of dye; fome- times by boiling it therein ; and fometimes by leaving it a day or more to fteep. — For the alum, in dying filks, it is always applied cold, in which ftate alone it contributes to the brightnefs of the dye.
The art of Dying may be divided into as many branches as there are different colours to be communicated, and forts of different ftuffs to be the fubjects of it.
Dying of cloths, ferges, druggets, and other woollen manufac- tures.— -For black, in cloths and ftuffs of price, it is begun with a ftrong decoction of wood and indigo, which give a deep blue ; after which, the fluffs being boiled with alum and tartar, or pot-afhes, are to be maddered with common madder ; then dyed black with Aleppo galls, copperas and fumac; and finifhed by back-boiling in weld. See Black. — Scarlet is dyed with kermes and cochineel, with which may alfo be ufed agaric, and arfenic. — Crimfon fcarlet is given with cochineel meftich, aqua fortis, fal armoniac, fublimate, and fpirit of wine. — Violet-fear let, purple, ama- ranth, and panfy-fcarlets, are given with woad, cochineel, indigo, braziletto, brazil, and orchal. For common reds, pure madder is ufed, without other ingredients.— -Crimfon- reds, carnations, fame and peach-colours, are dyed according to their feveral hues, with cochineel meftich, without madder, or the like. — Crimfon- red is prepared with Roman alum, and finifhed with cochineel. — Peach-colour muft be back-boiled a little with galls and ' copperas, or the like.' — Orange-aurora, or golden-yellow, brick-colour, and onion-peel colour, are given with woad and madder, tempered according to their refpec- tive fhades. — For blues, the dark are given with a ftrong tincture of woad : the brighter, with the fame liquor, as it weakens in working. — Dark-browns, minims, and tan-colours, are given with woad, weaker in decoction than for black, with alum and pot-afhes ; after which, they are maddered higher than black : for tan-colours, a little cochineel is added. — Pearl-colours are given with galls and copperas ; fome are begun with walnut-tree roots, and finifhed with the former; though to make them more ferviceable they dip them in a weak tincture of cochineel.' — Greens are begun with woad, and finifhed with weld.' — Pale-yellows, lemon- colour, and fulphur -colour, are given with weld only. — Olive- colours of all degrees are firfl put in green, and taken down again with foot, more or lefs, according to the fhade re- quired.' — Feulemort, hair-colour, musk, and cinnamon-colour, are given with weld and madder. — Nacarat, or bright orange- rcd, is given with weld, and goats hair, boiled with pot- afhes.
