sand around the walls to keep the mortar from soaking into the paper. Allow this covering to remain on the floors until after the painting or finishing is done on the other parts of the room. The floors should be finished last.
Before the carpenter turns the work over to the painter, he should remove from the rooms all blocks, shavings, etc., and turn as much of the building over to the painter at one time as is possible.
The painter should sweep the room clean and thoroughly dust off the work before commencing to paint, stain or varnish.
Putty nail holes, joints, etc., with good putty, one which will not soften with age or turn yellow if white or light tints are applied over it.
If the work is to be painted, soft pine doors and casings should first receive a coat of size to keep them from spotting. This should be a shellac size if the work will permit. Good liquid filler is often used with good results by reducing to a thin consistency and applying a smooth, even coat. Hard drying varnishes, such as copal and hard oil finishes, are successfully used by applying them thin. Glue size can also be used if applied hot and very thin. It should not be allowed to get cold, as it will not strike into the wood but remain on the surface and is liable to break away. It is very hard for ordinary dampness to affect glue size after it has been properly applied and covered with paint or varnish. Where the price of work will not permit of sizing or the specifications do not call for it, satisfactory work can be done by mixing varnish with the priming coat. Varnish and turpentine will, to a certain extent, keep the work from spotting.
The paint for interior work should be mixed with a large percentage of turpentine. Oil will turn the work yellow. If white work, such as flat white, white enamel, is to be done, it is absolutely necessary that the priming coat should be mixed with turpentine, otherwise the work will yellow
