the village on a singular projecting rock 700 ft. high and isolated on three sides and nearly so on the fourth, stands the nunnery of Seben, to which hangs a tale. During the war between the French and Austrians, this road was certain to be held or forced by one or other of the combatants. The nuns were in great excitement. Some one told them that the French were coming on to Klausen, and would occupy the convent and kiss the nuns. But, it was added, the French liked pretty little mouths with small red lips to kiss like a rose, and the best way to obtain such dainty mouths is to practise saying "Oui! oui!" So for a week the nuns ran about their cloister repeating "Oui! oui! oui!" even in their cells "Oui! oui! oui!" it is asserted that even in chapel, the recitation of the offices was broken by "Oui! oui! oui!" at every comma, semicolon and colon.
But the French did not arrive, and the Austrian troops were announced as coming to occupy Klausen and Seben; and the nuns were told that Austrian soldiers and officers liked good large mouths and broad lips to kiss, like a full-blown rose, and the best way to acquire the desirable size was to practise saying "Jah! jah! jah!" So now cloister and cells and even chapel rang with "Jah! jah! jah!"
Unhappily the inn at Klausen proved to be vermin-haunted, and we fled to Botzen and thence to Brixen.
From Brixen we attended a village festival which my father describes, and on the subject of which he makes some comments:
"The fête was held in a village a few miles off, and it was a very pretty sight. There were numbers of young girls following the procession with their hair drawn back into a bunch at the back of the head, fastened up with silver flowers mixed with roses, and with red ribbons flowing down the back. The bodice was dark green or crimson stamped-velvet, the sleeves white linen; they wore short red petticoats with large white aprons trimmed with point lace, a large frill of the same worn round the waist. The stockings red. The men wore large yellow hats turned up on one side, lined underneath with green silk; short brown jackets, black knee-breeches, white stockings and low shoes. Their waistcoats were red under broad green braces. Altogether a most pleasing scene when witnessed among trees, green fields and mountains.
