ETRUSCAN.] COSTUME 455 times the Kcmova/o;, a mantle of woollen stuff with border of sheepskin. But among the citizen class where the himation, as in fig. 4, was the proper dress for a man of mature years, younger men and youths appear to have worn it only as a sort of undress to wrap round them when heated in the paltestra or at the bath. In public appear ances they wore a linen chiton girt at the waist, and reaching half-way down the thighs, and on their shoulders a purple chlamys of woollen stuff fastened with a brooch on the right shoulder as in fig. 5. The chlamys was properly a military mantle, and is said to have been introduced from Macedonia, as was also the kausia, worn along with it by Athenian youth, a round hat with flat pliant brim resembling the petasus of Hermes. In winter a mantle of thick stuff, the chlcena, was some times worn, while in sum mer the himation could be replaced by the thin linen chlanis. For official or priestly dignity an ungirt chiton reaching to the feet (chiton orthostadios) was worn. Sandals, shoes, or high boots were used as occasion required. The citi- "* rr - w - s3 - zen of mature years wore no FlG - 5 .Terracotta figure, wearing covering for the head. That Chlamys ami Chiton. FromTai.a-
- ?. , , -. gra. Brit. Mus.
was confined to youth, work men, and slaves. His hair was cut short on the top, and lay on the head without parting. At the sides and round the neck it was allowed to fall a .short way. His beard was of moderate size. Before Alexander s time only the Spartans shaved the upper Jip, but after that shaving became more general. Except a finger ring, a brooch to fasten the chlamys, or on occasion a wreath, the citizens usually wore no ornaments. While with this class there was no limit to the display of limbs, it was on the other hand the object of the slave s dress to conceal the limbs as far as possible, and for this purpose he wore, besides the jacket with long sleeves already noticed, close- fitting hose reaching to the ankles. For his head he had, like fishermen and other workmen, a pointed cap (pilos). The constancy to one fashion observed in the dress of the Greeks is not remarkable when we remember that the fashions with which they were familiar in other nations must have shared in their minds the association with servitude and lower civilization which attached to these nations. Yet if it is true that they entered Greece from the north, and had previously permanent settlements in that region, it is curious that they did not retain in their costume some evidence of the colder climate in which they had lived, unless, indeed, the hose relegated to slaves furnish such evidence. This same difficulty occurs with regard to the Etruscans, whose dress is peculiarly the natural one for an Oriental climate; and it is the more remarkable in their case since the cold of the north of Italy would, it might be supposed, have induced them to retain part of the dress peculiar to the north, had they, as is argued, been previously settled there. ETRUSCAN. The female dress of the Etruscans consisted, like that of the Greeks, ia (1) a chiton poderes, reaching to the feet, and girt at the waist ; (2) a himatiou, worn in the fashion of a shawl, as occasionally on early Greek figures, or as a plaid ; (3) a hat (tutulus) rising to a high point ; and (4) pointed shoes. The chiton, with diploidion on the breast, which is so conspicuous in Greek art after 450 B.C., does not so far as we know occur in pure Etruscan representations of dress ; nor is the himatiou found wrapped round the body as in Greek figures of this period (see fig. 2 above). It seems to have been much nar rower as used by the Etrus cans, and more like a shep herd s plaid. Instead of a himation a close-fitting jacket of thick stuff is worn by an archaic Etruscan female figure in the British Museum, fig. 6. The pointed hat (tutulus) re sembles the Persian kidaris, and from its Oriental appear ance has been cited as a survival of part of the national dress from the time when the Etrus cans inhabited Lydia. On a celebrated terracotta sarco phagus in the British Museum the female figure reclining on the lid wears a Greek chiton of a thin white material, with short sleeves fastened on the outside of the arm, by means of buttons and loops ; a hima tion of dark purple thick stuff is wrapped round her hips and legs ; on her feet are sandals, consisting of a sole apparently FlO. 6. Bronze Etruscan figure. of leather, and attached to From Sessa - Brit - Mus - the foot and leg with leather straps ; under the straps are thin socks which do not cover the toes ; she wears a necklace of heavy pendants ; her ears are pierced for ear-rings; her hair is partly gathered together with a ribbon at the roots behind, and partly hangs in long tresses before and behind ; a flat diadem is bound round her head a little way back from the brow and temples. Purple, pale green, and white, richly embroidered, are favourite colours in the dresses represented on the painted tombs. No less essentially identical with the Greek are the representations of male dress on works of Etruscan art dating from the period of national independence. The chief article of male dress was called the tebenna. On the other hand there are the statements of ancient writers that the toga prcetexta, with its purple border (TrepiTro/x/wpos T?7/3ewi), as worn by Roman magistrates and priests, had been derived from the Etruscans (Pliny, N. II., ix. 63, prcetextce apud Etruscos originem invenere) ; and the Roman toga, though placed round the body much in the same way as the Greek himation, yet differed from it in shape so far that, while the latter was an oblong, the toga was a circular piece of stuff (toga rotiinda], of which a large segment was doubled back so as to reduce the whole to little more than a semicircle. By this means a greater profusion of folds was obtained, and this at first sight is the characteristic difference between the Greek and Roman male dress. But though the toga, worn as it was by the Romans, does not occur in early Etruscan art, there is sufficient likeness between it and the tebenna which does occur, to justify the statement of the Roman toga being derived from the earlier costume of the Etruscans. It
would have been equally, perhaps more, correct to have