MONASTIC AND ACADEMIC.] COSTUME the alb or under-tonic, was covered by the tunic, a rich and splendid vestment; and the dalmatic, shorn of its ancient length in order to leave the second or middle tunic visible, followed, third in order, and became the super-tunic of the group. The tunic, like the dalmatic, partially slit at its sides and generally fringed, is well represented in monumental effigies and other early works (see fig. 21). 8. The Cope, a voluminous cloak or outer garment, originally furnished with a hood for covering and protecting the head, and of sufficient size to envelop the entire person of the wearer, would naturally admit of every possible variety in material, colour, and ornamentation, and it also would be used as well by laymen, as by ecclesiastics of all orders and by monks, llichly adorned copes, however, appear in mediaeval times to have been considered as almost exclusively ecclesiastical vestments of stately dignity, to be worn /u processions and on those ceremonial occasions which would be distinguished from the service of the altar. Such copes, having splendid border-apparels into which canopied figures of sainted per sonages frequently were introduced with heraldic and other devices, were fastened across the breast by a morse, often of costly material and highly artistic workmanship (see fig. 22). 9. The Almuce or Aumuce, a hood of fur, was apparently intro duced in the 13th century, its object being to afford protection from cold in processions, &c., and in the 15th century a cape and pen dants also of fur were added to it. 10. The Surplice, an alb, almost of primitive form, ample and flowing, and closely resembling the surplice of the present day, was in use in the Middle Ages in processions and on certain occasions of ceremony. An excellent example of a surplice of the 15th century is given in the noble brass to Prior Nelond, at Cowfold, Sussex, 1433. 11. The Mitre. First mentioned among ecclesiastical vestments about the middle of the 12th century, though some kind of dignified episcopal head-gear certainly had been in use considerably earlier, the mitre originally was made of linen embroidered; and it does not appear in its well-known double or cleft form until the 12th century had made a considerable advance, when it began to be con structed of some rich material and to receive costly adornment. ^Previous to the 14th century, when they attained to the perfection of their form, mitres were very low, their contour then being con cave Subsequently they became more and more elevated, and their contour was changed from concave to convex. Two short bands of some rich material, fringed at the ends, form the infulce of a mitre, and depend from it, one on either side. 12. The Crosier and the Pastoral- Staff. The former, having a cross-head, is appropriated to archbishops; and the latter, the official pastoral-staff of bishops and abbots, has a crook-head, like the head of a shepherd s staff. Expressly mentioned as the ensign of the episcopal office in the first half of the 7th century, as early as the 10th century the pastoral-staff became enriched with elaborate and precious ornamentation, and was adorned with a vexillum, or ecarf, attached to the staff immediately below the cross or crook- head^ The idea that some special signification is conveyed by the position in which in monumental effigies and in other episcopal figures the pastoral-staff is represented to be held appears to be without any foundation. 13. The episcopal Ring, Glows, and Soots. Early in the 7th century, and probably still earlier, a ring of large size, to be worn on the right hand, formed a regular part of the episcopal insignia; and in the full development of the vestments which took place in the 12th century, embroidered gloves, made with an opening to display the ring, and corresponding boots or shoes were included as components of the full official attire of the hierarchy. 14. The Pall ("Pallium "). This remarkable vestment, sent by the Pope to prelates of archiepiscopal rank, and restricted to their order, being in fact a peculiar form of the orarium or stole, consists of a narrow band of white lamb s wool, forming a circle to rest on the chasuble around the throat and over the shoulders, from which circle depend two other bands of the same fabric and width to hang down, the one on the front and the other on the back of the prelate, thus, whether seen in front or behind, presenting the appearance of the letter Y. The depending bands, which terminate in fringes and appear occasionally to have been fastened with golden pins to the chasuble, like the circular band, are charged with crosses 1 >attee-fitchee of black or purple silk. This pall, constantly represented in early works of Christian art through successive centuries, and blazoned among ourselves in the armorial insignia cif the archiepiscopal see of Canterbury, is seen to have varied but slightly in either its form or its adjustment from the 9th century to the 10th. An apparel, evidently designed to represent the pall, is found constantly to have been adopted for the ornamenta tion of mediaeval chasubles. The pall still in use in the Roman Church has the pendant bands considerably shorter than they appear in the early representations (see fig. 21). 15. The Chimere and Rochet. Of the former it will be sufficient to state it to be a modification of the cope; while the latter, a long sleeveless robe representing a garment known as a cololium in ancient times, appears to have been assigned distinctively for episcopal use, and also after the Reformation to have been allied to the full lawn-sleeves well known at the present day, from being well suited to be worn under another vestment. By prelates of the Reformed Church a short cassock of black silk is worn with their ordinary attire. A long loose black cassock also was com monly worn by ecclesiastics during the 17th and 18th centuries. VESTMENTS IN USE IN THE EAST. In its general bearing, what has been said of the vestments in use in Western Christendom, and particularly in reference to their use during the first eight centuries of our era, with compara tively slight modifications, is also applicable to the official vestments of the church in the East, the chief distinctions between the vestments of the East and the West, in addition to such as may in a great degree be traced to the influences of climate and to certain local associations, being a closer adherence in the former than in the latter to the earliest usages. The Greek Church also, being very tenacious in its own usages, to the present day retains everywhere its mediaeval vestments, their forms, names, and uses remain ing unchanged the sticharion corresponding with the alb and the early dalmatic of the West; the phcelonion, with the chasuble and its earlier predecessors, the casula and planeta; the omopliorion, with the pall; and the orarion, with the orarium and its successor the stole. MONASTIC. The habits worn during the Middle Ages by the monastic orders may be briefly described as follows : Benedictines. Gown or cassock of black, white, or russet cloth, with white or black fur, and black cape and hood. Cluniacs. Habit entirely black. Cistercians. White cassock with cape and small hood; over this when in the church a white gown, when abroad a black gown. Carthusians. Habit entirely white, except black cloak. Augustines. Black cassock under white full-sleeved tunic; over all, black cloak and hood; square black cap. Prcemonstratensians, White Canons. Cassock and tunic, long cloak and hood, and round cap, all of them white. Gilbertincs. Monks. Black cassock and hood, and white cloak lined with lamb s wool. Nuns. Black tunic, cloak, and hood, the last lined with lamb s wool. Dominicans, or " Black Friars." Same habit as that worn by the Augustine monks. Franciscans, -or "Grey Friars." Loose and long grey cassock girded with a cord; hood or cowl and cloak of the same. Carmelites, or " White Friars." Habit white throughout; but from about 1240 to about 1290, their cloaks were party-coloured, white and red. Austin Friars, or "Eremites." White cassock girded with a leather thong, with short tunic and hood; and over these, long, black gown with wide sleeves and hood. Crossed (" Crutched") Friars. Blue, habit, with plain red cross. Maturines, or " Trinitarian Friars." Habit entirely white, with eight-pointed cross of red and blue. The monastic garment named "scapulary," the exact character of which has not been decidedly determined, appears to have been a short super-tunic, sleeveless, but having a hood or cowl. ACADEMIC. In the Middle Ages, professors or doctors and bachelors of divinity, and graduates of the universities above the rank of bachelor in the faculties of arts and law, in addi tion to the customary costume of their time and station, in connection with their academic rank wore long flow ing gowns having slits at the sides for their arms to pass through, with large capes or tippets and hoods, the latter having pendant streamers, these capes and hoods in many instances forming parts of the same article of dress. Graduates of the highest rank also wore round caps, pointed in the crown, and of a dark colour. In the 15th century, when distinctions appear first to have been introduced into the costumes of masters and bachelors of arts, the gowns
of the latter were shorter than those of masters, and had