470 COSTUME [ENGLISH. abound in the monuments and illuminated MSS. of both France and England ; also, as in the general character of the costume of each era, the same fashions of head-gear are found to have prevailed about the same period in other European countries. The most remarkable example of the "horned" head-dress that has been observed either in France or England, is represented in the effigy of Beatrice of Portugal, who married one of the earls of Arundel in the time of Henry V., which remains in good preservation in Arundel church in Sussex ; fig. 37, from the brass to Lady Hals- ham in the same county, shows a simpler and more moderate form of the same head-dress. Fig. 38 is drawn from a portrait of Elizabeth of York when young, in stained glass at Little Malvern. The "hennin," fig. 39, is a French example, reproduced from the always effective pages of Viollet-le-Duc. The "butterfly," shown in fig. 40, is another example in which the type of a particular head gear is exhibited with no less of moderation than of accuracy. In every case, to these head-dresses -veils, generally of ample proportions and often of great length or depth, -and always of some light and delicate material, were attached, and from the actual structure worn in connection with the hair upon the head they either were expanded by wires or were permitted to fall drooping freely. FIG. 39. "Steeple" Head-dress (" Hennin "). From Viollet-le- Duc. Fia. 40. "Butterfly" Head-dress. Extravagancies in head-gear, however, were not restricted to the fashions of one sex only ; on the contrary, at this same period, among other strange eccentricities and fancies, a kind of cap, in form somewhat resembling a turban, was introduced and generally worn by men, which on one side had attached to it a cluster of very large bows or puffs (the prototype of the "cockade" of later times), while on the other side a broad band or scarf of the same material as the cluster of bows hung down to the ground, or even trailed along upon it, unless it should be the pleasure of the wearer to tuck it up in his girdle, or to wind it round either his head or his throat and shoulders. This strange male head-gear, of which a French example is given in fig. 41, showing the upper part of the scarf when hanging down, often was treated as a hood for occasional use only, when it rested on one of the shoulders of the wearer, its cluster of bows drooping over his back, and the long band or lappet pendant in front of his person, hia head, meanwhile, if not bare, being covered with a cap, round or square or peaked, or by a brimless hat adorned with an upright feather and a jewel. In the 13th and 14th centuries the knightly surcoats and jupons, worn over armour, had their counterparts in the robes and tunics of peaceful attire ; and so, in like manner, the shortened tunics and stLll shorter jerkins, that were in common use when the 15th cen tury was bringing the great civil struggle to its termination in the accession of the Tudors, may be considered to have been suggested by the short "tabard" with its short and full sleeves and its heraldic ,-, blazonry, at that time worn by men- Ia *! Head-dress with Scarf, at-arms over their plate-armour. At the same time and till the end of the century, the long tunics still in use, which some years earlier had been slit up in front and had their full sleeves somewhat gathered in at the wrists, were made still longer, and had collars either close- fitting or open and falling back; they also were made o pen in front throughout their entire length, and their loose sleeves were of a uniform size from the shoulder to the wrist. At this same time also rosaries, and gypcieres or purses, were worn attached to their girdles by both sexes. About the year 1480 the long and acutely Vointed poulaines were superseded by coverings for the feet of both sexes which exhibited the opposite extreme of being short, very broad, and rounded or sometimes almost square at the toes. In the concluding quarter of this century, the super-tunic or gown of the ladies, made to fit closely and having a long and flowing skirt, the sleeves also close-fitting and with cuffs either turned back or drawn over the hands, was open above the short waist, the collar falling back over the shoulders and showing the under-tunic either carried up to fit closely at the throat, or sometimes cut square and low. Rich and broad necklaces were worn, and belts of goldsmiths work with long pendants. The "horned " head-dress became either sharper in its points, or con siderably less pointed and more graceful. The "butterfly" head dress increased in favour, and was worn with the hair drawn back into an enriched caul or cap. About 1490 an angular or "diamond " head-dress superseded the "butterfly; it had a ridge, after the manner of a gabled roof of a house, over the head, and forming an angle above the centre of the forehead, from which it descended with a slope on each side of the face ; then, another angle having been formed slightly below each eye, this head-gear, which inclosed the back of the head in a species of cap, was continued as a broad lappet falling over each shoulder in front of the person of the wearer ; occasionally, also, two other similar lappets depended behind (see fig. 42). Early Painted Glass. Upon the costume, always without doubt in a signal degree characteristic of the period in which it was executed, of the various figures introduced by mediaeval artists into their numerous pictures executed in glass, Winston has made the following concise remarks : Early English Gothic, 1175 to 1300. "Robes, whether lay or ecclesiastical, are generally short, in male figures hardly reaching to the ankles, and in females scarcely more than touching the ground. The female dress usually consists of a close garment with tight sleeves and a loose robe and shoes ; the head is sometimes bare, but more commonly draped. The male dress, usually appropriated to dignified persons, also consists of a close garment confined at the waist, and furnished sometimes with tight and sometimes with loose sleeves, a robe or mantle, and long hose, to which is often added a cap greatly resembling the Phrygian bonnet. The costume of ordinary persons is generally a short tunic, confined at the waist and reaching nearly to the knees, and sometimas a short cloak ; when this is used, the legs of the figure are generally represented encased in hose, or in a loose sort of stocking setting in folds about the leg, and with or without shoes." Decorated English Gothic, 1300 to 1380. "The draperies of this period are much more flowing and ample than those of the last ; and in ecclesiastical and female figures the robe is generally long and envelops the feet. The secular emale costume usually consists of a garment fitting tightly to the aims and body, and having a wide long skirt trailing along the ground ; upon it sometimes are depicted the armorial bearings of the wearer. A cloak or mantle is often loosely thrown over it. The wimple is a frequent adjunct to the head-dress, and the hair is usually plaited down on each side of the face and inclosed in a net or cowl. The ordinary costume of dignified laymen consists of a long robe and loose cloak, the hair and beard being arranged in loose and wavy locks. The usual secular dress is a short jerkin or tunic reaching about half-way down the thighs, and tight hose and shoes, upon which model the armour of this period was formed." Perpendicular English Gothic, 1380 to about 1550. "Greater repose was given to the figures in this than in either of the former styles, and the draperies are generally disposed in very broad and grand folds. The female dress in general consists either of a close- bodied dress with long skirts and tight sleeves, or of a looser dress with sleeves wide at the shoulders and tight at the wrists. A cloak is often added, upon which armorial bearings, when used, are emblazoned more frequently than on the other garment. The variety of the head-dresses is great, especially towards and during the reign of Edward IV. The secular male costume, until almost the end of Edward IV. s reign, appears usually to have con sisted of a furred gown of tunic-like form, reaching rather below the knees, slit nearly half-way up the middle, and confined round the waist with a girdle ; it had either wide sleeves narrowing toward the wrist, or small at the shoulder and wide at the wrist like those of a surplice. The legs were inclosed in pointed-toed hose. The hair, until the latter part of the reign of Edward IV., appears to have been cropped closely all round, and after this time to have been cut straight across the forehead, but allowed to grow long behind and at the sides of the face, and to have been smoothed down like a club. In the reign of Henry VII. long furred gowns reaching to the feet and obtusely-toed shoes i were used ; they continued in fashion during the next reign also." Century XVI. "We find," says M. Paul Lacroix, writing specially with reference to the costume prevalent in France, " that a distinct separation between ancient and modern dress took place as early as the 16th century. In fact, our present fashior.a may be said to have taken their origin from about that time. It
was during this century that men adopted clothes closely fitting to