478 COSTUME History of the Dress of the British Soldier, by Captain John Luard. HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND. Without a rival in the picturesque individuality of its character, the national costume of the Highlands of Scotland is remarkable as well for the manner in which it has been made to distinguish the various clans or septs of the same raee, as for a certain general uniformity that significantly intimates the brotherhood of the clans as alike sharing a single common nationality. It probably is due to its own distinctive peculiarities that the Scottish Highland dress should have been inherited and transmitted from generation to generation almost without any change, and that at the present day it should be held in as high a degree of estima tion as it ever enjoyed in past times. In early ages, having been influenced in a certain degree by the general fashions of dress prevalent at successive periods, a comparatively slight use of defensive armour having also for a while been adopted as a military accessory, shortly after the com mencement of the 17th century this costume may be con sidered to have assumed the character which since that time it has maintained, with scarcely any modification except in the style of the short tunic. Before the accession of James VI. of Scotland to the throne of Great Britain, the tunic and the " phillibeg/ or kilt, formed a single garment, whereas apparently during the reign of the son of Queen Mary Stuart the kilt became a separate garment, to be adjusted about the waist, and reaching not quite to the knees after the manner of a short petticoat, a vest and tunic being separate garments also. Stockings, gartered below the knees, which thus would be left bare, with shoes, completed the equipment of the lower limbs. A cap or bonnet, without any peak, decorated with a spray of heather, was worn as a head covering, the bonnets of the chiefs being distinguished by the addition of eagles feathers. In front of the person, and depending from a belt encircling the waist, was worn the " spleuchan," or pocket purse, covered with fur ; and a " plaid," or scarf, of ample dimensions, generally adjusted across the person of the wearer, and having the ends hanging down from a brooch fastened on the left shoulder, as in fig. 52, com pleted the costume ; occasionally, however, the plaid was 1 Fro. 51. Chief of the Clan MacDonell. FIG. 52. Piper of the Clan Gregarach. gathered up so as to admit more free movement in the manner represented in fig. 51. The weapons were a broadsword, or " claymore," havin a straight blade and a basket-hilt, attached to a broad baudrick which passed over the right shoulder, and a dirk worn on the right side, the sheath of the dirk being also provided with a hunting-knife. Before the general use of firearms by the Highlanders, they carried for defence a circular target on the left arm. Ihe two accompanying figures, which show the different modes of adjusting the plaid, are also examples, the one of the tartan in whkh green is the prevailing colour, with narrow checks of red (fig. 51), a chief of the clan MacDonell, and the other (fig. 52), a piper of the clan Gregarach, of a tartan which is red with narrow black checks. The colours, and the " set " or patterns of the checks, of the tartans of the different clans, the Royal Stuart being the richest of all, have been deter mined for a considerable time, the actual era of their original introduction not having been definitively deter mined. The costume of each clan is fully and faithfully represented in M lan s volumes, referred to below. BIBLIOGRAPHY. To compensate in some degree for unavoidable conciseness, as much space as possible is here assigned to references to publications which comprehend within their range the consideration and illus tration of minute details, and which also treat of costume under widely varying conditions and regarded from very different points of view. No attempt is made to give a list that is even ap proximately complete, but attention is directed to a selected series of works of a typical and authoritative character, in which is con centrated direct, specific, and suggestive information. In its historical aspect, the study of costume implies a systematic com parison of the costumes of different races and countries. Refer ence must also be made to those monumental works of art that have come down to our own times comparatively urinmtilated, which are also of equal value as illustrations of armour. (See AIIMS AND ARMOUR.) EGYPTIAN. The great and magnificent foreign works on the "monuments of Egypt by Lepsius (Denkmiilcr aus uKgypten tend JEthiopen, with 899 plates), Champollion, and Rosellini ; Egypt and Nubia, by David Roberts, R.A. In the two series of Sir G. "Wilkinson s Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians (6 vols. with 600 illustrations) the subject is exhaustively treated ; see also the smaller work (2 vols. copiously illustrated) by the same author. Equally excellent is the companion work, Lane s Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians, 5th edition, illustrated. See also the British Museum Photograplis, part ii., 118 plates. ASSYRIAN. Layard s Monuments of Nineveh, two series ; and, by the same author, Nineveh and its Remains, and Nineveh and Babylon; British Museum Photographs, partiii., 245 plates. GREEK and ROM A.N. The best illustrators are the British Museum Photographs, parts iv. and v., 175 and 97 plates ; with other photographs of Greek and Roman draped statues and busts, and also others of certain gems and vases by ancient artists. The fac-simile representations will be advantageously associated with Smith s and Rich s Dictionaries of Greek and Roman Antiquities. See also Hope s Costumes of the Ancients (Egyptian, [ Greek, and Roman); Hamilton s Etruscan and Greek Vases; Millingen s Ancient Unedited Monuments (Greek), and Inghirami s great work, Monu- menti Etruschi (14 vols., including the Vasi Fittili). ORIENTAL. Simpson s India Ancient and Modern (2 vols., 50 illustrations) ; Forbes Watson and J. W. Kaye s People of India (with photographs) ; Chinese Costumes, and the Employments of Chinese Traders, edited by Sir J. Bowling (3 vols.); and J. Thompson s illustrated volumes on China, the Straits of Malacca, &c. Also Audsley and Bowe s splendid Kcramic Art of Japan, and Sir R. Ker Porter s illustrated Travels in Persia, &c. For the costumes of Central Asia, Schuyler s TurJcistan and Captain Buruaby s Khiva. ECCLESIASTICAL. Vcstiarium Christianum, by Rev. W. B. Mar riott, written with true historical impartiality, and illustrated with 63 excellent photographs and engravings, commencing from the earliest known examples of authority, and tracing the history of ecclesiastical vestments from its origin. The subject is further worked out in D Agincourt s History of Art ~by its Monuments from 4th to 16tl. century (51 plates of sculpture and 204 of painting), and in Lee s Glossary of Liturgical and Ecclesiastical Terms. In its full development, from the 13th century downwards, effigies of eccle siastics, which abound in England and in some parts of the Continent, are among the most perfect of the mediaeval exponents and illustrators of costume ; and they themselves have been fully and faithfully illustrated in the following works on early monu mental art : Stothard s Monumental Effigies of Great Britain ; Waller s Monumental Brasses ; Cotman s Brasses of Norfolk and
Suffolk ; Boutell s Monumental Brasses and Slabs, and Monumental