KITCHEN AND COOKERY 96 with a layer of warmed lard or dripping, and let it set. SPECIAL STOCKS For the very best soups, especially clear ones, stock ought to be made from fresh meat and bones. Brown stock for brown soup, whether clear or thick, and white stock for all light- coloured and white varieties. BROWN STOCK Required for three quarts of stock : Three pounds of shin of beef. Three quarts of cold water. One medium-sized carrot, turnip, and onion. Two sticks of celery. A bunch of sweet herbs. Three allspice. Six peppercorns. A level teaspoonful of salt. Any bones or scraps of poultry or lean ham. Wipe the meat carefully with a clean cloth, wrung out in hot water. Cut it into pieces about an inch square, and chop the bones small. If there is any marrow in the bones, save it, for it will make a delicious little savoury. Put the meat, bones, salt, and water in a large saucepan; let these stand for about half an hour, then bring the water very slowly to boiling-point. Wash and prepare the vegetables, cut them into fairly large pieces, tie the herbs in a bunch, and the spice in a small piece of muslin ; then add all these to the meat and water. Let the stock boil gently with the lid half on the pan for about five hours. As soon as the vegetables feel quite soft take them out, for, as soon as they are thoroughly cooked, they absorb the flavour and spoil the soup. They need not be wasted, but can be served at some meal. When the stock has boiled enough, strain it off into a clean basin through a hair or wire sieve. If the colour does not seem to be quite dark enough add a little burnt sugar. When cold there will probably be a cake of fat on top of the stock; keep this intact until the stock is needed, as it preserves the stock. HOW TO CLEAR THE STOCK First remove every vestige of fat from the top of the stock, and, if it has set in a jelly, wipe the surface with a cloth wrung out in very hot water. If there is any grease left on, it will never be really clear. Often, if the stock has been boiled slowly and every scrap of fat carefully removed, it will be quite clear without clarifying it. Merely re-heat it, then ladle it very gently into a clean fine cloth or old dinner napkin, placed in a sieve or colander over a basin. Be sure not to stir the contents of the cloth nor yet press them. If, however, the stock is cloudy, take for every two quarts of stock : Half a pound of raw lean beef, one small carrot, turnip, and onion, the shell and white of an egg, a bunch of sweet herbs. Cut off every scrap of fat from the meat, and pass the lean through a mincing machine. Put the stock into a saucepan, warm it iust enough to make it liquid ; then add the minced beef, whisk it in with an egg-whisk, and let it stand for ten minutes. Wash the eggshell thoroughly, crush it in your hand, and add it to the soup, also the white of egg whipped to a light froth, the vegetables (left whole), and the herbs. Let the soup boil well up in the pan, draw it to the side of the fire and let it settle ; < then pour it into a clean cloth placed in a sieve or colander over a basin. After straining it, it is ready to be re-heated, seasoned, and served with any garnish required. If, however, it is not perfectly clear, it should be put back in the pan with the egg- shell, etc., and be boiled and whisked again ; if the cloudiness still remains, add a fresh white of egg. WHITE STOCK Required for three quarts of stock : Three pounds of knuckle of veal. Three quarts of cold water. One medium-sized carrot, turnip, and onion. A bunch of sweet herbs. Two sticks of celery. Eight white peppercorns. Any scraps of unbrowned pieces of poultry or bones. Salt and white pepper. Prepare the meat and bones as for brown stock, put them in a saucepan with the pre- pared vegetables (cut in halves), the herbs, and peppercorns. Let all soak for ten minutes, then bring the water slowly to boihng-point. Let it boil gently for about five hours, removing any greasy scum as it rises. When cooked, remove the vegetables. Strain the stock through a fine strainer into a basin, keep it in a cool place, and remove all fat from the surface before using it. SECOND STOCK The meat and bones which were strained from the stock will still contain a certain amount of goodness and flavour. So add to them about two quarts of water and a fresh supply of vegetables and herbs. Let them boil for another four hours. Strain off the stock, and you have what is known as second stock, which is useful for ordinary household purposes, such as the foundation of gravies and sauces. BONE STOCK is stock made entirely from bones. Though containing less nourishment and flavour than stock made from meat, yet it is most useful and economical. It is prepared in the same way as other stock, but must be boiled quickly in order to extract the gelatinous matter from the bones. SOUPS Soups may be divided into four classes. I. Consommes, clear soups. 2. Purees. 3. Thickened soups. 4. Broths. CLEAR SOUPS These are made from clarified stock, various garnishes being added which give the distinctive names to the various soups — Consomme a la Colbert, Consomme au Nouilles, etc.
