THE GARDEN 140 NOVEMBER WORK IM THE QARDEM By HELEN COLT, F.R.H.S. Things to be Done In the Flower, Fruit, and Vegetable Gardens— How to Trench, and Why— Planting and Re'planting— Greenhouse and Conservatory "Work THE FLOWER GARDEN Although October is the orthodox mouth for making fresh herbaceous borders, yet it is naturally desired to prolong the season of flowers as'much as possible, and drastic treatment, therefore, will be deferred until November in many gardens. TRENCHING Trenching should be carried out in November with great thoroughness. All plants will be lifted and heeled in — i.e., their roots laid under soil in a spare plot. A trench 18 inches wide is then marked out across the border, and the soil in it dug out to a depth of 2 feet and removed to the farther end of the border, or to a spare piece of ground. If the lower depth is found to be light and poor, this should be merely turned over and not removed. Any rubble, etc., which is free for disposal in the garden can be laid at the bottom of the trench for drainage. On the top of this, place the dying greenery of the perennials lifted, and cover it with a thick layer of well-decayed farmyard manure. Turn in the adjoining width of soil; add a layer of leaf mould and some good phosphatic fertiliser containing lime. Basic slag is excellent and inex- pensive for the purpose. Bone meal should be substituted on chalky soils. Next dig out the second width, and place it on top of the first. After the trench has been turned in it should be well sprinkled with some reliable soil fumigant. The process of trenching is continued from end to end, and the last trench filled in with the soil from the first. If the ground treated is in an exhausted state, some good fibrous loam — i.e., top-spit of an old pasture — should be obtained and worked in near the surface. The why and wherefore of trench- ing is a subject large enough for a lengthy treatise. The following fact>, however, may be mentioned here : 1. The soil is a living thing, con- taining bacterial organisms acting upon substances which cannot other- wise become available for plant food. In other words, the soil cannot become fertile without the agency of both. 2. The bacteria can only do their work when proper conditions of aera- tion, warmth, and moisture are present. Moreover, lime and other substances must be present for their nutriment. 3. Such conditions of aeration, etc., and of nourishment, are made possible only through the opening and turning over of the soil. This object is best obtained by trenching deeply all unculti- vated ground, and by continuing the process during seasons of growth, with surface cultivation — i.e., by the use of fork and hoe. RE-PLANTING BORDERS In re-planting borders, most of the perennials will need dividmg. Cut the coarser growers into pieces with a spade or large knife, and pull the more tender ones gently apart. J)iscard Philadelphus Copyright altogether woody centres of Michaelmas daisy roots, etc. Give plenty of room in re-planting, and arrange for bold clumps and masses, usually of not less than three specimens. Be careful to place most of the taller plants towards the back of border, unless, of course, it is a bed with a path on either side. Lilies should be introduced freely in borders of perennials, and left for years to come to perfection. It is advisable for this reason that the bulbs should be planted rather deeply. Cover with sand when putting in. Many lilies, it should be remembered, are better for being protected against the hot sunmier sun by plants with tall foliage. May-flowering tulips should be planted in November. Seedling wallflowers, Canterbury bells, double daisies, and sweet-williams, also carnations from layers, may be placed in their permanent quarters during mild weather. In cold, wet districts, however, planting is best deferred until spring. The choicer among edging plants prefer sand, and should not be planted in heavy soils where a cold, wet clay predominates. Many of them, how- ever, will stand a better chance of getting established if they are planteil in the spring. Keep the lawn well swept and rolled, and do any re-turfing necessary, also alterations in flower-beds and walks. Unless the season is unusually mild and wet, grass-cutting will from now be discontinued. FLOWERING SHRUBS Flowering shrubs also will be planted in November. Town-dwellers should replace some of their "ever- greens " with the charming decid- uous subjects which make a garden so beautiful. Among such shrubs may be mentioned the following : Weigela, Deutzia, Buddleia, Hibiscus, Persian lilac. Dogwood, scarlet Ribes, Guelder rose, Kerria japonica. Brooms (white and yellow), Philadelphus, Bladder senna, Mock orange, and Rhododendrons. Evergreen trees and shrubs, as well as those which are deciduous, may be shifted during the present month. Any half-hardy shrubs, also half-hardy herbaceous fantaisie plants, should be lifted before severe vtitch frosts arrive. Dahlias and cannas, and the corms of gladioli also should be lifted and dried. Continue planting late bulbs, such as anemone, ranunculus, hyacinthus candicans, ixias, etc., and, when necessary, protect with loose litter or bracken leaves. THE FRUIT GARDEN This IS the best month for planting fruit trees. The ground should be prepared by trenching at least 2 feet deep, and allowed to settle before planting. In every case dig out a hole of sufficient depth, and wider than the spread of all the roots after cutting off clean any thick, woody ones, or such as are crooked or broken. Hold the stem of tree upright at centre of the
