LADY OF QUALITY 2 room, and, when all are seated, ladies remove their gloves and open their napkins. In certain classes of society the dinner-napkin is called " serviette " for some reason, but the English word is preferred in the best socictv. Table Display Shaded lights are in favour, and the tables which are " electrified " and convey the current through the cloths to the candle- sticks are very practical. Without shades, electric lights are very disagreeable when placed just opposite the diner, producing headache very often. The same unpleasant result is produced by lamps unless they are softly shaded. The flowers should not be arranged so as to intercept the view that every diner likes to enjoy, of those seated opposite. Flowers with very strong perfume should be avoided. They make some people ill when in a room with exhausted air, and, unfortunately, the air of even a large room without open windows becomes vitiated very soon when a number of persons are dining in it. With lights and flowers well disposed and the room of a pleasant temperature, all may be expected to go well with the dinner. Conversation sometimes becomes general, and sometimes remains particular. Two or three of those assembled may discuss a subject, and gradually all at that end of the table may join in ; or there may be some egoist — usually a terrible bore, but sometimes interesting if he happen to have a hobby of an attractive kind — who is not happy unless he has " borrowed " (after the fashion of Brutus) the ears of all present. Plate But w hatever may be the general character of the talk, the men present do not forget that it is their business — not always synony- mous with pleasure, unfortunately — to look after the needs of the lady they have been given to as cavalier for the occasion. As a rule, the servants see to everv actual need ; but it is the duty of the escort to supply her social enjoyment, so far as may be. She may be uninteresting, but must not l)e neglected. She expects to be talked to, and should not be disappointed. The practi- cal eye of the hostess soon notes any dere- liction on the part of a guest, and she mentally decides not to invite him again. Fish-knives are seldom seen in great houses, though the habit of restaurant dining has proved their convenience and caused them to be adopted by some few hostesses of the aristocratic clas.ses. In the middle classes they have been established for many years, and the diner would not feel fully equipped without them. _ j -i. ff The correct spoon for soup is the table- spoon. I mention this, as servants who have not enjoyed the advantage of being trained m a good house almost invariably lay dessert- spoons for soup. The order for kriives and forks is to place furthest from the plate those that will be needed first. This is more convenient for the diner than any other arrangement would be. When there are hors d'ceuvres, the small fork to use for eating them is placed in readiness on the small plate used for this preliminary course. Arrangement of Wine Glasses ' The order for wine-glasses is to place nearest the edge of the table the one for sherry, which, with perhaps hock as an alternative choice, is the first wine offered. Next it is that for hock, then the claret- glass, and, furthest, that for champagne. It is no longer usual to place the dessert- knife and small fork in front of the diner's plate. They are brought round on the plates. Port glasses are placed on the table at the same time as dessert-plates, after the other glasses have been removed. Liqueurs are handed on a tray, at the left side of the diner, in glasses ready filled. These, and the now unfashionable beer, are the only beverages handed at the left. Entrees Entrees are handed first to the lady on the right of the host, and then straight down that side of the table to each diner in turn as they sit, gentlemen and ladies alike, then up the other side of the table in the same way, not omitting the hostess. In this fashion, the host is last to be offered the dish. It is customary to hand two entrees at the same time, one at each side of the table. In this case the second entree is handed first to the lady on the left of the host. Should there be menus on the table, they are consulted as a matter of course, but no one is expected to stud}^ them during every pause in the conversation. A few hints to the inexperienced may be of use, though they will certainly be regarded as superfluous by those who do not need them. Bread at the dinner- table is always broken, never cut. Dinner rolls are sometimes very hard and crusty, but the knife is never used to them ; they are broken with the fingers. Biscuits or toast are sometimes used instead of bread. The Art of Eating Noiselessness in eating and drinking is a sign of good breeding. No sound whatever should be made when swallowing. Soup becomes a test in these ways. It is taken from the side of the spoon, not the point. Should the plate be tilted, it is raised from the side nearest to the person dining ; but it is not usu-al to finish it so very con- scientiously. Asparagus is eaten with the fingers, when cooked with that idea in view. Of course, this would be out of the question when that delicious vegetable is soaked in sauce or gravy. Olives are taken from the dish with the fingers and conveyed to the mouth by the same means. Cheese is cut in small pieces and one of these is placed on a bit of bread or biscuit and lifted to the mouth in that way. Celery is taken in the fingers. One helps oneself to apples, oranges, bananas with
