RCCREATIONd 298 a rough, unfinished look; on the other hand, unless the incision is decided and even, it is impo-^sibk- afterwards to depress the eclges suniciently to get the required relief. The lines must then be "opened " by inserting the fine point of the tracer, and running it along the grooves made by the knife. If the design is to be embossed in high relief, the parts to stand out specially should be pressed out from under- neath with the broad modeller. The Padding: The "padding" must then be prepared. This consists of rye- flour, obtained from any baker, and the very finest sawdust pro- curable, mixed in equal propor- tions, with sufficient water to make it adhere so as to roll up into a ball. The leather should be placed face downwards on the slab, and small portions of the mixture pressed down on the parts to be embossed. This should be covered with a piece of tissue-paper to keep it in place and prevent it sticking to the slab when workingl" The leather should now be turned over and all the outside edges of the design be firmly pressed down with the modeller, particularly those which surround the raised portions. Veining: and Shading; The design should now stand out in relief. The veining and shading of flowers and leaves should be marked with the fine modeller. It is in this that the artistic taste and skill of the worker comes in, as there is such wide scope for the display of individuality. The sunken background should now be worked in by tapping the background punch with the hammer, so that the impressions run one into the other, pro- ducing a rough surface completely covered with indentations. The marginal lines should be ruled in rather deeply with the fine end of the tracer or modeller, and, if wished, an edging punched round as a finish. A piece of leather for the back must be cut exactly the same size, and may be ornamented according to the fancy of the worker. A simple and effective way is to rule oblique lines at regular intervals, and punch rings either at the junctions or in the centres of the diamonds thus formed. Staining the Leather If it is wished to stain the leather, it can be done without much trouble. A wide, flat brush of hair (not bristle) such as is used for enamel paint is best. And this, fully charged with stain, should be quickly and evenly passed over the whole surface. It dries very rapidly. Dark green stain is most suitable for cases or covers. Working in Calf-skin The method of working in calf -skin is very similai, but it requires even more care in cutting, and if the design is small, with narrow lines and difficult curves, it is better to omit the cutting and endeavour to produce * the effect with the fine modeller alone. Cowhide should always be used for larger articles, such as blotters, book-covers, telegram - cases, or bags, while calf is more suitable for letter-cases, card- cases, small bags, purses, etc. Velvet Hide Latterly a great deal of what is called velvet hide has been employed. It has the appearance of suede leather, and being generally supplied already stained (in various art colours), must, of course, never be cut, or the edges w^ould show the original buff shade. In using velvet hide, after the design has been traced on it, the worker proceeds at once to pressing down the edges and modelling. With this leather, too, a variation can be made by " pressing-in^^ the design, leaving the surrounding background standing out. The novice should, however, learn to work on ordinary leather first, as it teaches the use of more tools and is a better lesson. It should be remembered that the leather is always easier to work if not allowed to get dry. The only part that is better done on dry leather is the background, as it would be impossible to punch evenly over a large area if it were damped. In choosing designs, ex- perience only can teach which should prove suitable and effective; but, roughly speaking, any design in- tended for woodcarving in relief, or metalwork, can be used equally well for leather. Patterns intended for needle- work or on tiles, wallpapers, or furniture can often be worked in with advantage. It is impossible for amateurs to make up their own leatherwork in a really satisfactory manner, as special machines and tools are required, if the finished article is to have the work- manlike appearance that the material demands. There are people who make a speciality of making up work, but the local saddler is often equal to the task, and willing to carry out original suggestions.
