525 DRUS piece of cloth, following the curved line of tacking stitches already made. This should reproduce the curved line on the cross way piece. Take a piece of tailor's chalk and correct this line, so that the curve may be quite perfect before the stitching is done. Machine- stitch on each side of the line, but not round the corners. Commence and cut off the thread at the end of each line. The space between the two lines of stitching must depend upon the cloth — if it is not likely to fray, the lines of stitching can be worked very near together, just allowing for the opening for the pocket to be cut between them ; but if it is not a closely woven material they must be further apart. However, the closer the lines can be stitched, the better the pocket will appear when the work is finished. N.B. — The space between the two lines of stitching must be the same all along the curve, and both lines must be exactly the same length. The upper thread at each of the four ends must be drawn through and tied firmly to its own under-thread, but they must never be tied across the ends. The opening must now be made for the pocket. Take a small, short, sharp pair of scissors, and cut carefully between the Diagram 4. Tack the two edges together from left to right, and back again from right to left By two rows of stitching ; cut from the centre to each end as far as the stitching, but not beyond. If the space between the stitching will allow of it, the cut at each end can be made slightly slanting, almost to meet each row of stitching, thus leaving a tiny tongue of the cloth at each end ; this little tongue is made in order that the corners may set perfectly flat when turned in. But if the rows of stitching are too close together for the opening to be cut in this way, it is not only unnecessary, but cannot be done. Turn the crossway piece of cloth through the opening to the wrong side, and tack it closely all round, and quite near to the edge of it — this should give the opening the appearance of being corded, and not bound round ; the corners must set quite smoothly, and not appear puckered. Tack the two edges together, passing the needle through the corded edge only, tacking over and over, from left to right, and back again from right to left, drawing the two edges to- gether just to meet, but not to overlap, and forming a cross-stitch, as shown in diagram No. 4. Place the work wrong side uppermost on a bare sleeve or ironing board, cover it with a cloth, well wrung out of water, and press it well with a tailor's goose. Place one or more rows of machine stitching round the opening near the edge. N.B. — In making a coat, the pocket is the first part which is to be stitched (for ornament), and as the number of rows placed on it must correspond with those to be placed round the collar, revers, etc., the number must be decided upon before the pocket is stitched. Z<? de continued. MILLINERY PRITCHARD Fur as a Season's Trimming VBVe must always remember that no hard-and- ^ fast rules can be laid down with regard to the trimming of headgear. Every season has its novelty — or, rather, many novelties — but the best modistes of the world never overtrim their models, but depend rather on the application of fabrics of good quality at an artistic angle on the shape itself. The amateur, however, has much to learn regarding the elementary laws of trimming, even admitting that she has mastered in some degree the difficulty of shape-making and covering. In the last article we rehearsed the phases of tying the simplest bows ; in this we will further elaborate a popular trimming. Fur is used on hats no less than on dresses, and on miUinery it is light and elegant as an edging to the lace rosette ; a wintry appearance is therefore given to the hat without overloading the shape in a physical or an artistic sense, though, of course, fur is used equally for velvet or silk bows. It is sold by the leading drapers in strips, from 3s. ii|d. a yard, for millinery purposes ; Mrs. eric Con tin tied from page S77, P'^ >'t j The Combination of Fur and Lace — The Intricacies of Rosette-making marabout strips are also used, where a lighter and cheaper edging is required. For the lace bow, i yard of guipure or torchon lace, in black or white, at 2S. iijd. per yard, 18 inches wide, and 4 yards of skunk or marabout will be required. To Make the Bow 36 iT?cbefc Fig. 1 Take 36 inches of lace, and cut it in half lengthways. This will give two lengths, each 36 inches by 9 inches.
