527 DRESS Fold one of the lengths in half, then re- fold and cut, leaving four pieces, each 9 by 9 inches (sec F.g. 11). O tocbei. p.^ ,2 Repeat the same with other half, and there will then be eight separate l^ieces, or squares, 9 by 9 inches each . Pin all the squares one on the top of the other, round off each square at the top; this gives eight leaves, as illustrated. The object of placing one on the other is to secure perfect uni- formity of curve. pass. F.g. 14 Push wire through the hem Fir. 13 The leaves, or loops, must now be sup- ported by wire. Hem each leaf very neatly, and leave the hem suf- ficiently wide to allow the wire to Fig. 15 Sew the fur round each leaf, remember- ing to take up only the extreme edge of the fur. The leaves are now ready, and we come to the most difficult part of the task, which is to put the leaves artistic- ^'8 '5 ally together so as to form a rosette. It is almost impossible to describe how to do this, for the result depends on the worker's own discretion and taste. Commence by taking a small piece of stiff net or buckram, or anything stiff in black (if black lace is used) , cut out a circle 4 inches in diameter. Buttonhole-stitch the wire round, or double lace wire could be used if no ordinary wire is obtainable (see Fig. 15). It is as v.ell to remember exactly how to make these rounds, as they are continually being required for trimming. The technical term for them in millinery is " ears," and the modiste uses them as a foundation for mount- ing and supporting feathers, bows, flowers, etc. ; but this is a point requiring special skill. fr i.»achei Fig. 16 Pleat one of the leaves at foot with thumb and forefinger, and sew on to the edge of an ear, one inch down. Fig. 18 Sew five leaves round the outer circle of this ear, each pleated in the same way. The remaining three leaves are to be used for filling in the centre, and here again in- dividual taste is the worker's guide. Fig. 19. Thz hat complete Fig. 19 illustrates the rosette completed, with a small piece of fur, or a cabuchon ornament, placed in the centre to finish it off neatly, and sewn in position on the hat. The edge of each leaf is straight, but the wire can be bent and curved according to taste, to render the effect as artistic as possible.
