543 KITCHEN AND COOKERY
- Soubise.
Oyster.
- Caper, etc
(c) Sweet Sauces : Apple. Apricot. Custard. German. : Chocolate.
- Pistachio.
- Lemon.
Orange.
- Sweet melted butter.
- Mousseline.
- Vanilla.
- Wine.
Jam. Cornflour, etc. 2. COLD SAUCES [a) Chaudfroids : White. Brown. Green. Tomato, etc. (6) Salad Sauces or Dressings : Mayonnaise. Tartare. Ravigote. Vinaigrette, etc. (c) Sweet Sauces : Cream. Apricot. Sabayor. Vanilla. Chocolate. Caramel. Recipes for sauces marked * are given in this article. THE CONSISTENCY OF SAUCES Sauces are chiefly needed for two purposes : 1. To coat over or mask some article of food, as a chaudfroid sauce to coat a fowl, or caper sauce to coat boiled mutton. 2. To flow smoothly round some article of food, as piquante sauce round Veal cutlets, or marmalade sauce round a steamed pudding. Coating sauces must be thick enough to smoothly cover the back of a wooden spoon when dipped into it. If the sauce stands in ridges on the spoon, it is too thick ; if it all trickles off, it is too thin. Flowing sauces must be thin enough to be poured smoothly round the fish, pudding, etc. These sauces must not be watery, nor yet form ridges or lumps. SOME USEFUL HINTS ON SAUCES The success of brown sauce depends largely on the flour being correctly fried in the butter or dripping. This is done to colour the sauce, and to impart a rich, nutty flavour, which cannot be obtained by adding any colouring or flavouring. If the flour is fried too dark a colour, it gives a bitter taste to the sauce, and fails to thicken it correctly. In white sauce the flour must be blended with the melted butter, and stirred smoothly in it over a gentle heat for about five minutes. It must not colour in the least. The process develops the flavour, and improves the sauce by giving it a bright, glazed appearance. Sauces should simmer for about five to twelve minutes by the side of the fire, in order to allow anv greasv scum to rise, which, by its removal, clears the sauce. Also, in some cases, this cooking is required to develop the flavour of the ingredients used. Thoroughly boil sauce, in order to burst and cook the granules of the flour. Unless this is done the sauce will have a rough, raw taste, and will be indige.stible. Sauces, if over-cooked, will become oily. This can be remedied by adding a little cold liquid of any kind suitable to the sauce. Then stir the sauce over the fire until it just reaches boiling-point, and remove instantly. Strain or tammy sauces to make them perfectly smooth. This, however, is not possible if they contain such ingredients as parsley, egg, capers, marmalade, etc. RECIPES HOT BROWN SAUCES ESPAGNOLE SAUCE A Rich Brown Foundation Sauce Required : One pint of brown stock. Two ounces of butter. Two ounces of flour. Three ounces of ham or bacon. A bunch of parsley and herbs. One sliced onion. One sUced carrot. One tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms. Three tomatoes. Three peppercorns. One clove. One glass of sherry. Salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the ham (cut in dice), the herbs (tied together), the vegetables, and spice, and fry all these a light brown. Then add the flour, and broTi that very carefully. Put in the stock, and the tomatoes cut in slices, and let the sauce simmer gently for half an hour. Stir occa- sionally, and keep it well skimmed. Add the sherry, and a careful seasoning of salt and pepper. Rub the sauce through a sieve, or, if preferred, through a tammy cloth, specially sold for this purpose. If the sauce seems too thick, add a little more stock. N.B. — The wine and mushrooms may be omitted if desired. A PLAIN BROWN FOUNDATION SAUCE Required : One pint of brown stock. Two ounces of flour. Two ounces of butter or dripping. One sliced onion. One sUced carrot. One teaspoonful of lemon juice. A bunch of parsley and herbs. Salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the vegetables, herbs, and flour, and fry them a light brown ; pour in the stock, and stir until it boils. Season carefully with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Simmer gently for fifteen minutes, skimming it well. Pour through a gravy-strainer, and serve. N.B — Well washed bacon rinds or bones greatly improve the flavour of the stock. To be continued. Tlje following are good firms for supplying foods, etc.. mentioned in this Section : Messrs. J. 8. Fry « Sons, Ltd. (Cocoa) ; Samuel Hansen & Son ( Red, White & Bli.e Coffee) ; C. R. Shippam (TongueS: ?otte<J Meats, etc.)
